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  1. #1
    Gong Shooter
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    Default Gun Safes - Security on Sale Gun Safe Prying Video


  2. #2
    Gong Shooter
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  3. #3
    Stircrazy Jer jerrymrc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hip55 View Post
    I have seen that before. Now part of the trick is they have to be able to get it on its back and they have to have room to leverage the bars. This is a good reason to have the safe securely attached to concrete.
    I see you running, tell me what your running from

    Nobody's coming, what ya do that was so wrong.

  4. #4
    Diesel Swinger Graves's Avatar
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    Mounted or not, a standalone safe only buys you some time.

  5. #5
    Gourmet Catfood Connoisseur StagLefty's Avatar
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    That's why I only buy gun cabinets with glass panel doors.
    Don't pick a fight with an old man. If he is too old to Fight, he'll just kill you.

  6. #6
    Industry Partner
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    Quote Originally Posted by hip55 View Post
    I have been drooling over that AR34 safe since it came out. Its "tacticool".

  7. #7
    Machine Gunner Hoosier's Avatar
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    How do you move these things if you get them?

  8. #8
    Industry Partner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier View Post
    How do you move these things if you get them?
    Its not really that hard. Two or three people can lift one into the back of a pickup truck. You just leverage it on the tailgate not pick it straight up. You can use an appliance dolley or you can put golf balls underneath and roll on top of them over flat ground.

  9. #9
    Rebuilt from Salvage TFOGGER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StagLefty View Post
    That's why I only buy gun cabinets with glass panel doors. Filled with sarin gas.
    Fixed

  10. #10
    Industry Partner BPTactical's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graves View Post
    Mounted or not, a standalone safe only buys you some time.
    Very true, but there are some things you can do to buy some time:
    1-Hide the safe in plain sight. A gutted refrigerator works well as does building it into a closet.
    2-Secure it to the structure. In a wood frame you really only have 2 choices, lag it to structural beams or if you have access below, get some long u-bolts made and go around floor joists. In concrete you can RedHead them down.
    3-Alarm the safe itself. Just a cheap tilt or motion sensor hooked up to a LOUD siren works wonders.
    4-Make it as heavy as possible. False flooring the safe and putting in lead ingots or similar will quickly add 300# or so to it.
    5- Strengthen the doorframe of the safe. Most safes are just formed sheet steel. A little inginuity with 1/4" bar stock or angle will really make it vitrtually impossible to pry one open. It doesnt matter if you have 1' locking bolts all the way around if the frame is flimsy 14 gauge.

    Theives suck
    The most important thing to be learned from those who demand "Equality For All" is that all are not equal...

    Gun Control - seeking a Hardware solution for a Software problem...

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