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  1. #1
    Worlds Shortest Tall Guy kwando's Avatar
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    Default Tips on bolting safe down

    So... got my safe moved down in the basement at lunch today with the help of a few co-workers. Just need to bolt it down now. What is the best/simplest way to bolt the safe down?
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  2. #2
    It's "Safe Man" opie011's Avatar
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    What is the floor...wood or cement? If wood, lag bolts with a cordless impact will drive them in nice and secure. If cement, hammer drill and some wedge anchors! I got tools if you need help!
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  3. #3
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    Yeah That.

  4. #4
    Angels rejoice when BigBears trumpet blows
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    My tip/contribution: Don't get your fingers stuck between floor and safe when bolting down... it hurts....


    Long story, not mine.

  5. #5
    Worlds Shortest Tall Guy kwando's Avatar
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    it is a concrete floor. everyone is saying a hammer drill as well, going to see if i can get one from my buddy
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  6. #6
    Witness Protection Reject rondog's Avatar
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    I haven't bolted down any safes yet, but I HAVE bolted a helluva lot of telecom equipment to concrete floors, the process is the same except for the weight and hassle of the safe.

    Personally, I'd recommend going to a tool rental place and renting a rotary hammer. It's like a hammer drill, but much larger and way more efficient. It'll make holes in no time. Get the bit from them too, they'll usually provide one. Much different bit than a hammer drill bit. Drilling deep holes in concrete with a sissy drill is an exercise in turd polishing, use the right tools.

    Get the safe in the place/position you want it, check several times to make certain that's the spot. Don't want to find out later the door hits something, or doesn't open far enough, etc. Poke a Sharpie down through the holes in the bottom of the safe and mark the floor. It's a good idea to also mark the floor around the bottom of the safe on the outside edges, where you can see the marks. This will help immensely with getting the safe back in position after the holes are done.

    Have someone operate a shop vac while you're drilling, to vacuum up the dust. This helps with cleanliness, but also helps you to see what you're doing. Be sure to vacuum out all the dust from the holes, blow them out with compressed air if possible. The concrete dust can act like a lubricant and keep the anchors from getting a good bite.

    Depending on the type of anchor, it might be a good idea to tighten them up in the holes first, to expand them into the hole and "set" them. It would suck loudly to have an anchor turning in the hole after you have 2 or 3 already tight. Use the biggest and best anchors you can find that will work with the safe. Don't go cheap.

    I'd definitely recommend at least Grade 5 bolts of the right length, not all-thread that's been sawn off. All-thread is much too soft. And put large, thick flat washers under the bolt heads, lock washers wouldn't hurt either, but probably aren't necessary. But beefy flat washers will help to spread the load, and provide a little more protection against the bolts getting sucked through the holes by prying the safe upwards.

    I'm sure there's more that could be mentioned, but this should do for a start.

  7. #7
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    Does your safe have holes in the bottom large enough for the Red Heads that you will be using ? ( drop in hammer on wedge type anchors ) If not you will be buying a lot of bits for the rotary hammer before you get through the steel of the safe.
    Also set the safe on a heavy rubber pad about an inch thick before bolting it down. To prevent moisture accumulation under it and cause the bottom of your safe to rot out. I went to a farm supply store and got a horse stall rubber pad,
    1" thick by 48" wide by 96" long. I used half and sold the other half to a friend for the same purpose.

  8. #8
    Worlds Shortest Tall Guy kwando's Avatar
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    yes it has holes already.... thx for the tip about the pading. I have access to some, not sure if its 1" thick but it should work.

    my safe came with cheap plastic anchors! WTF

    I am going to go with http://www.strike-anchor.com/ they seem to be the best, but can't find anyplace that sells less than 25/50 to a box.
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  9. #9
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    What part of CO. are you in, I could grab you four Red Heads from work if you were close, 1/4' to 3/4" tell me what size.
    Don't use the ones you posted a link to, we had nothing but bad experience with those.

  10. #10
    It's "Safe Man" opie011's Avatar
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    Yes RedHead anchors are the way to go. I use 3/4"x 12" RedHead anchors for 4k pound $70k ATMs. These anchors are the shit!!! Also, I've seen a full size truck hit a 4k pound ATM and only one anchor broke!!
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