Calling all diesel truck enthusiasts/experts

[enthusiast]

I am looking to purchase a used diesel truck and really like the Ford F250 with the 7.3L motor. I have just found one on Craigslist and am thinking about going and looking at it. I have been reading about the 7.3 motor and it generally gets favorable reviews.

Here is the one I found on Craigslist.
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3887432301.html

What should I look for?

I found a thread from here (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/523079-new-sticky-for-common-mods-section-truck-buyer-frequent-questions.html) that had a pretty good list of things to check for. If you are very knowledgeable I would even pay a little something to come and look at it with me. I really do not want to get a problem truck.


Ok all. This is my stab at streamlining the what to look for when looking at buying a 99-03 PSD truck. I will take the first stab at it and would like all of you to throw in what you think is specific to these vehicles. Some of it may be vehicle nonspecific but useful nonetheless.

My intent is to compile ideas (aka brainstorming) then cut and paste into one item. Can we do this Scott, Dan? Don't want a lengthy thread and I don't feel like doing a forever search. I know how it is searching for things here sometimes.

I will break it down into categories:

1. Visual: Body and rust are obvious items, nonspecific.

A. Engine

1) Check for any obvious fluid leaks, especially the engine valley, tranny weep hole area, and around the turbo and pedestal.

2) Check coolant with strips and find out the record of any changes or water pump replacement based on mileage.

3) If possible, do compression check, and Cylinder contribution test.

4) Inspect turbo inlet side vanes, should be straight and not dusted or jagged. Try to move the shaft in and out and up and down. Any real noticeable movement by hand is bad. Open and inspect air cleaner assembly for an idea of how it was maintained.

5) If possible, have fuel pressure tested at engine to check pump.

6) Check all intake /intercooler boots for residue or leaks and correct before trying to determine engine condition.

7) Look at oil pan for notorious rusting, make sure not beyond repaint type repair.

8) Know whether you're getting forged or PMRs. 99-mid 01 = forged, anything later is possible or for sure PMR. Not an issue until you exceed 400HP.

B. Transmission, driveline and 4x4 system.

1) Look for any obvious leaks.

2) With the system in 2wd, grasp and rotate both front drive axles and ensure they rotate freely. Go to the hubs, ESOF and manual should rotate from lock/auto to free with no problems.

3) Grab rear driveshaft and push up and down along it's length checking for worn u-joints or bearings.

4) Check front and rear differential levels. (An indicator of maintenance) Level should be at or w/in 1/2 inch of check plug.

2. Test drive. If you have never owned a 7.3 PSD, try to get a 7.3 owner to test drive it. I did this with a friend who bought his new. Invaluable evalation because you have no idea. A stock PSD may feel like a slug to the gasser uninitiated but it can pull a house off of it's foundation. So here we go.
A. Drive more than one PSD truck that you are considering. Whether Auto or Stick, it will give you an idea of the overall condition of the one you want to buy. Cost = 0. Learning curve = super high. Dealers have a ready supply.

B. Startup. Turn key and watch wait to start light. The colder it is the longer it will take but should take no longer than 15-20 seconds on even cold days. Start engine. Should crank readily and turn the tach while cranking (although mine does not). Should start within 2-5 seconds of cranking. The colder it is the longer it will take but if longer than 5 seconds there may be a problem. Even in colder weather. If it does not not start easily on the second try, suspect problems, possibly in the glow plugs or GP relays. If it does not crank readily, or seems to drag, suspect batteries first, starter next, then cables.

C. Driving. Check all operational items. Don't be rushed. This is a major investment and you want to get it right. Even small items like the cruise will set you back.

1) Auto tranny: will feel like it takes the throttle to get moving with a stocker. The higher the mileage, the worse this will be. The shift should be smooth but slippy with a stocker. Long to engage. Convertor lockup will be almost imperceptable, but there. Will lock up at about 45 to 60m depending on throttle in OD. Should drop out of OD with input to brake or reduction of speed.

2) Standard: give input

3) Ride: if it is bouncing down the road, you can look to having some problems to take care of. These can be tire balance. Tires, or some unexplained seemingly incurable symptom that you may have to live with which is unacceptable and not common, but does happen. Some say it is an out of balance driveline but there is no universal cure.

4) Exhaust drone. Only happens with aftermarket exhaust due to what I believe is harmonics resonating in the thinner walled aftermarket systems. Not a big solution at present but not a performance issue.

5) Performance. There is no hesitation in the PSD 7.3 when all is in working order. Any hesitation is an indicator of a problem. By design, if all is in order, at throttle tip in, it simply responds. No excuse such as mileage considerations. This = repair bill.

This is my humble stab at the start of a common. Please feel free to chime in with corrections or additions.

[Blowby]

Low miles, forged rods, good condition.
Questionable item: New coolant res. Did it discolor from oil contamination? That means head gaskets problems.

[Wulf202]

paging redneck

5) turbo lag and engine/ambient temp need to be factored

watch for anything coming from the exahust, note when and color.

[Rabid]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

[Dryfli]

Take it to a shop and pay them $100 to check it out well worth the money. $100 could save you $1000's

[BushMasterBoy]

I'd run a carfax check. Automatic transmissions always seem to get the least maintenance, was an after market cooler installed? Was the fluid changed regularly in the transmission? Fluid should be changed at least every 30,000 miles. I think a dealer certified vehicle might be the way to go.

[zteknik]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

Exactly
The 7.3 is by far one of the best diesels Ford ever put out.
I have been working for Ford for over 10 years and the only thing that I ever saw kill these were dumb ass kids and NY rust.

Cheap aftermarket stuff may look cool and sound nice but can ruin a good motor.If the exhaust isn't clamped on properly to the turbo downpipes it can cause not only an exhaust leak but can crack the flanges.
Some aftermarket air cleaners let too much stuff come through to the turbo and can cause damage,also a lot of them delete the mass air flow sensor and that can screw up your air fuel mixture.
I didn't quite see if it was chipped or not but just throwing a chip in,setting it to its highest setting with only cheesy exhaust and an aircleaner is not the way to do it.You need to upgrade quite a bit and fine tune it.

Now a lift kit is nice but it does put a lot of stress on a lot of components if there not upgraded as well.Ball joints,axle u joints tie rods, pitman arm,drive shaft u joints just to name a few.Also if the pinion angle isn't right you can bind up all the u joints.

Like Rabid said, a kid owned it -probably rode hard and put away wet...
I personally would steer any of my customers away from it and save them the headache of costly repairs in the future..

[enthusiast]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

Thank you I was unsure of that myself. I have modified cars in the past (Subaru's) and would not buy someone else's modified turbo car. I will keep looking.

[LippCJ7]

I like the idea of getting it checked out but in the time it takes to do that you will lose it.

Tough deal, but I have one and will not sell it, I have owned my 2000 F350 7.3L its entire life and I love driving it, of course I love driving my 2006 Dodge 3500 CTD to though...

177,000 miles, mine has 330,000 miles, you will need to know if its on its first tranny, if it is then plan on replacing it before too long, yeah its a kid and yeah he could have hot rodded it but I promise you he couldn't have done anything to it I didn't. As others have said Maintenance is probably the most important issue.

[enthusiast]

Thanks for all of your replies. Are there other diesels I should consider beside the obvious Cummins ones? I am trying to stay around the 10K range as I want to pay cash.

[BushMasterBoy]

With a camper on the back, this would be a badass bugout vehicle...http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3864680392.html

[hurley842002]

With a camper on the back, this would be a badass bugout vehicle...http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3864680392.html

Took me a minute to envision that as a camper, but once I got it I have to agree. I've always wanted a 4 wheel drive camper.

[zteknik]

30315
I want one of these :)
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/events/0911_4wdweb_2009_sema_show/photo_09.html

[hurley842002]

30315
I want one of these :)
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/events/0911_4wdweb_2009_sema_show/photo_09.html

Hell yes! We've got Earthromer right up the road, unfortunately I'll never make enough for one, now if my wife would follow through with her goal of becoming a PA.....

http://earthroamer.com

[BushMasterBoy]

Whats badass is the truck has TELMA frictionless braking system that augments the regular brakes. Tires and brakes last alot longer. I've got one of these to go on it....Alaskan Camper...http://www.campinglife.com/images-content/1049383_Alaskan.jpghttp://www.terrymckinley.com/photos/camper1/P1010003.JPG

[hurley842002]

Sorry OP, I just realized we are crapping on your thread with bad ass'ness.

[enthusiast]

No worries. I like all of the ideas this thread is giving me. Although I will need a crew cab on mine and a short bed. [Beer]

[Rabid]

Thank you I was unsure of that myself. I have modified cars in the past (Subaru's) and would not buy someone else's modified turbo car. I will keep looking.
No problem. I had a friend that had a 7.3 and it was a great truck but like zteknik said he straight piped it, put on an air filter and chipped it. It lasted about 3 years before it had problems. I would hate for anyone to buy a vehicle that was beat up and that one throw up too many red flags.
For that era you almost can not go bad with any of the three if you know what you are looking for the Ford's were bullet proof besides the HP fuel pump, the Chevy's Isuzu engine had problems with the heads warping but the replacement heads corrected it, and i do not know much about the Dodges but i think they were the 12 valve and were a little under powered but bullet proof engine, not too sure about the rest of the drivetrain though.

[OtterbatHellcat]

The 7.3 is damn near a bullet proof motor.

If it's higher mileage and lacking on frequent oil changes, beaten up a little bit by a kid?...I'd be a little worried about it.

One thing those motors can do, is the engine oil pressure pump gears can mushroom out and dig into the front cover plate. R+R the motor to replace that, not cheap.

[streetglideok]

Injector harnesses and leaks around the fuel filter are about the only other thing to add to the list. I had a gen 1 powerstroke, and it ran good in its day. The gen 2 7.3L was even stronger. If its an auto, assume the worst and it'll need one. If it is a stick, make sure it shifts smoothly, and no wannabe truck drivers have been trying to float the gears without using a clutch. Whatever you do, don't consider a 6.oh-no.

[roberth]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

Exactly.

The 7.3 motor and the axles are great. The transmission will be as good as it was treated, if it was abused or neglected (more than 15k-20k b/t fluid/filter changes then stay away, very expensive to fix.

I would say NO on this truck because of the lift and other mods. Find a clean stocker and do your own mods.

Look for the kind of truck rabid said and I highlighted, it'll cost more but with proper care should go 400K miles.

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

I'm definitely no expert, but something of a mild enthusiast.
The reason I own diesel pickups is because I worked as an EMT in college.

ALL of our ambulances were Ford 7.3s. They were SO beat on, and we had the world's laziest / chittiest mechanic on staff.
I seriously could not tell you what sort of a maintenance schedule any of the rigs were on but it seemed like never. $0.02 We destroyed bodies in crashes (ambulance bodies, hopefully not patient bodies), we tweaked transmissions, I personally had a driveshaft u-joint go on me which was exciting, but I never saw a blown motor. And because I worked for the cheapest ambulance company in all of the ghetto, we'd have 3, 4, 500k on these things. (edit: with a ton of city miles / extra idling) They'd always die in crashes before being "used up."

It was back then that I decided when I got older and had some money, I'd own a diesel truck. I always wanted a 7.3 - but have owned only a couple of cummins since.
Last for-what-it-is-worth thought - people rag on the 7.3 as "slow" compared to the competitors / newer stuff. These ambulances were WAY heavier than my empty pickup and i don't know if it was gearing or what, but I sure don't know where that "slow" thing came from. I'd definitely say "comparable" - if not quite as fast. You're not missing out there, again, IMHO. If I could find a really clean one, a 7.3 Expedition would be my dream truck.

[Irving]

With a camper on the back, this would be a badass bugout vehicle...http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3864680392.html
Anything over a 350/3500 will have to be insured on a commercial policy FYI.

[rockhound]

i can tell you my 2000 f250 would go through brakes like they were Lays potato chips, like every 6000 miles

by contrast my dodge ram 3500, DRW gets 80,000 miles out of a set of brakes

[killianak9]

Whatever you do, don't consider a 6.oh-no.

Just my two cents and experience. Only get into a diesel if you have the money to spend. Unless your doing maintenance yourself, it can get spendy. You get what you pay for
I bought my first stock 2004 f250 Crew Kingranch 6.0 in 2008 for $26800. Had a 2002 f150 before this one. It had 82,000 miles. at 120,000 I had to replace the FICM, EGR valve, Cooler and a few other things. $2600 in repairs two years after purchase. All OEM Ford Parts.
That was Since then I installed a Edge CTS programmer (about 18k mi on it with the Edge, no issues) and now pull a 10K enclosed car haul and a 12k 5th wheel camper with same truck and so far, NO issues. I do all planned maintenance, oil, filters, sensors ect..... The Edge made a huge difference for towing, which Is why I got it, and I do a lot of.
Take your time, do your research and get what vehicle will meet your needs. Good luck , keep us posted

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

Buy a 12v cummins and be happy

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

Just my two cents and experience. Only get into a diesel if you have the money to spend. Unless your doing maintenance yourself, it can get spendy. You get what you pay for
I bought my first stock 2004 f250 Crew Kingranch 6.0 in 2008 for $26800. Had a 2002 f150 before this one. It had 82,000 miles. at 120,000 I had to replace the FICM, EGR valve, Cooler and a few other things. $2600 in repairs two years after purchase. All OEM Ford Parts.
That was Since then I installed a Edge CTS programmer (about 18k mi on it with the Edge, no issues) and now pull a 10K enclosed car haul and a 12k 5th wheel camper with same truck and so far, NO issues. I do all planned maintenance, oil, filters, sensors ect..... The Edge made a huge difference for towing, which Is why I got it, and I do a lot of.
Take your time, do your research and get what vehicle will meet your needs. Good luck , keep us posted
Don't buy a Sick point slow like this guy. It's the biggest peice of shit ever built by ford

[enthusiast]

Thanks for all of the replies! I have started looking at Dodge now as well. My brothers work for Dodge so I can get stuff at cost and they will stop making fun of me if I got one as well. [ROFL2]

[sabot_round]

All advice given here is good. If you are gonna steer away from Power stroke to cummins, just make sure that you get a stick tranny. It will take you further places than an auto. [2cents]

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

All advice given here is good. If you are gonna steer away from Power stroke to cummins, just make sure that you get a stick tranny. It will take you further places than an auto. [2cents]

I agree. My 2500 was auto. It was much faster top end and off the line, I'm sure because of gearing - and mostly axles at that.
My 3500 is standard. I'd do this again in a second with as many jeep auto transmissions that I've had. Treadlightly on Chrysler autos.

[enthusiast]

So, are the Chevrolet Duramax motors with the Allison transmissions good? I know I may be asking for more problems but I want to stick with an auto tranny. This will be my daily driver too.

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

Another good point as good as the cummins is the auto tyrannys are shit unless they built but I believe this is the case for any diesel truck. Even the mighty Allison shows its limits at about 500hp witch is easily achieved with a tuner, exhaust, and intake with a dirtymax. Also the dodge and Chevy tend to have front end problems more so with the dodge. Fords have shity breaks and keep in mind the big diesel V8s are a PITA to work on you have to lift the cab off the frame to do anything major like a turbo, or injectors. With the cummins being a inline 6 its super easy to work on especialy the first gen witch is what I own with over 350,000 miles and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

If you plan on keeping the truck stock any stock tranny will be fine with proper maintenance. The problems occur when you add power and torqe and as you know it's verry easy to unlesh the beast in these trucks most of the motors are rated under 300 hp but it takes nothing to make 500hp. The 12v is rated 180hp and 450 ft/lb but it just takes a few screws turned, a $100 fuel plate and exhaust and your in 400hp and 600ft/lb area and you transmission just isn't built for that

[roberth]

If you plan on keeping the truck stock any stock tranny will be fine with proper maintenance. The problems occur when you add power and torqe and as you know it's verry easy to unlesh the beast in these trucks most of the motors are rated under 300 hp but it takes nothing to make 500hp. The 12v is rated 180hp and 450 ft/lb but it just takes a few screws turned, a $100 fuel plate and exhaust and your in 400hp and 600ft/lb area and you transmission just isn't built for that

People forget that don't they, beefing up one part means you have beef it all up.

[rockhound]

My 05 3500 dodge

i got 135,000 miles out my factory transmission, and i pull heavy, 15,000 pounds plus when we would tow our fifth wheel and jeep, used in my construction business to pull my equipment trailer and tools, regularly 5000 lbs and more

the peoiple who use these trucks as a daily driver to commute 15 miles into town and run out to the movies will kill the tranny everytime. the truck was meant to work and work hard, hammer the crap out it and it will thank you everyday. if it is not banging up against the governor then they are not happy at all. if you are not towing with it then park it, using it as a commuter will kill it, they hate city driving unless you are starting a heavy load

i got 80,000 miles out of my first set of brakes,
i got 145,000 miles out of my first set of injectors, installed the new ones myself, they are not that hard to do.
the truck currently has 166k miles on it and it runs great.

the new tranny has a triple lock tc, upgraded valve body and all heavy duty internals should last forever,

the only complaint i have about this truck is that it eats tires, but i finally got pissed off enough last night and fixed that factory defect, the factory adjustment would not allow for enough caster in the passenger side, a little drilling, alittle welding and we are all set. every time it was aligned i would get the same story, there isn't enough caster adjustment, that is as close as we can get it.

[Holger Danske]

Tranny rebuild between 150k - 200k. Make sure the front bearings and u joints are in good condition. If there is play in the steering wheel it may need a new gear box. Check the wiring harness works if you want to tow.

[brianakell]

Overflow bottle is clean, not seeing a big issue there. Those do crack over time. The air filter being red, if its a k&n, its letting dirt in. If its afe, youre fine.

Otherwise, look over the truck. Known plenty of folks who dont beat their trucks into the ground, but like lift/wheels. Working on the 7.3 is not terrible either. A cummins is easier, but you can get the turbo off without moving the cab, same with injectors, and most anything else on that engine.

What Ive seen, in the year/price range you are looking at:
at 10k, you arent buying a dmax
at 10k, you arent buying a 03+ dodge
you can afford the ford.

Ford has better brakes than the 02 and back dodges by a long shot, better front axle than the 03+ dodges. Ford has a real axle over chevy independant. The cummins will pull better mileage than the 7.3, and the dmax will be close to the cummins. The 7.3 isnt bad for mileage, but likely 18 will be the highest youll see, more like 16 being realistic. I think all autos are pretty scrap metal, but youre not buying me a truck either! Crew/short is probably the most popular setup, so those truck are going to sell fast, especially with a 7.3. The only faster mover would be with a 6speed in it.

Pop the intake tube and check the turbo for wear/play, check for smoke, otherwise general look over, and go. One nice thing is numbers wise, there are a lot more fords built than dodges, so it you do need something the parts are fairly available.

[Chad4000]

I have been driving a 7.3L 250 for about the past year.. this truck is really good at what it was made for,, but diesel is a pain the ass for me.... I will tow occasionally, but nothing more then my 6.L gas chevy could handle (when it was running lol). deisel is more like a life style then a truck... lol

[encorehunter]

I don't know that you would want any Dmax you can get for under $10K. It would an LB7 and be prepared for the $2000 for injectors anywhere from 5K miles to 100K miles. There is no warranty, so if you get 1K miles out of them, then you get to pay for another new set. If you do find a newer one, check the transfer case, as they have a metal clip inside that like to break and then wears a hole through the case. For $2500, it is easily replaced. I have had to have the front end rebuilt once for $450, and was told it will have to be done again after another 80K miles. I regularly pull heavy trailers, the lightest being 7K pounds. I pulled a 10K lb Airstream to Albuquerque from Canon City yesterday and averaged 15mpg. It's not the fastest or strongest, but it gets the job done.
I agree with the guys on the Cummins auto trannys. The four we had all began slipping at under 100k miles and all of the trucks were stock. One started slipping at 32K miles. My father traded off his 93 cummins with a newly rebuilt auto tranny, and we are still wishing we hadn't. The 03 Cummins seems to be having a lot of problems. I know of three people with them, all three have had to rebuild the front end multiple times and the transfer case has gone out of two of them. My brother has an 01 Cummins with a 6 speed manual. It is a beast, still running strong with 105K on it.

My suggestion to you would be find an older Dodge Cummins 12v for $5-6K and put some money in it. You may not have the fastest or prettiest, but it will be one of the best diesels for your price range. It was $3200 to put a heavy duty rebuilt tranny in my father's '93. It had 290K on it, and ran like a dream.

[enthusiast]

I think I found one I like. I am waiting on a response for more information on the truck.

Thoughts on this one?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3994890130.html

$13K - Ford F250 7.3 liter power stroke turbo diesel; 162,000 miles. Clean, one owner, runs great. Leather interior, tool box, ranch-hand bumper and grill guard, IPF lights.

[2XS]

Looks like a nice powerstroke. Appears to be in good shape. I'm a ford guy and bought a 06 gmc 3500 with the duramax and the Allison and couldn't be happier with it great power and awesome mileage for a one ton. 16 around town 18-20 on the highway.

[Great-Kazoo]

I think I found one I like. I am waiting on a response for more information on the truck.

Thoughts on this one?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3994890130.html

$13K - Ford F250 7.3 liter power stroke turbo diesel; 162,000 miles. Clean, one owner, runs great. Leather interior, tool box, ranch-hand bumper and grill guard, IPF lights.

Receipts, always check for receipts / paperwork. I've been told lot's of times, we did this had that done. When asked about paperwork, "well i did it myself" No problem, have receipts for the parts? ummmmm

One owner is nice with paperwork. HOWEVER THE CARFAX is useless IF the owner or shop didn't report the problems / repairs. Mine looked showroom clean, until i crawled underneath it. Some detailers forget, oil leaks don't happen in the front or rear cab, but on the engine / tranny area.

[coldaudio]

Ever consider an E350 van? My buddy picked one up with 100k miles, same 7.3 diesel, same tranny, etc. for only 11k

So far I've helped him replace the steering box, tranny mount on rear crossmember, and fix some broken doorhandles.

He has a chip with selectable tune, but the torque converter does NOT like it. Just installed an aftermarket valve body and it made a world of difference.

[TAR31]

Looks like a nice powerstroke. Appears to be in good shape. I'm a ford guy and bought a 06 gmc 3500 with the duramax and the Allison and couldn't be happier with it great power and awesome mileage for a one ton. 16 around town 18-20 on the highway.

You need a programmer/tune on it, I'd be disappointed if my LBZ got below 20 on the highway again.

[TRnCO]

who puts an add up like that without mentioning the year it was made?

I've got an 01 F250 PS, and it's got 171,000 miles is still runs like a champ. I did have to replace my tranny at 106,000. The early built 01 model had a known "mechanical diode" issue with the tranny. With different valve body in the new "re-man" tranny, it's going strong. I changed out the smaller original 7.3 tranny cooler for a larger cooler that comes on 6.0 trucks.
I did have an oil leak from the HP oil pump recently. Easy fix.
With good maintenance, the 7.3 will go forever. Mine still doesn't burn any oil between changes. I run a mild tune from super chips.

[enthusiast]

who puts an add up like that without mentioning the year it was made?

I've got an 01 F250 PS, and it's got 171,000 miles is still runs like a champ. I did have to replace my tranny at 106,000. The early built 01 model had a known "mechanical diode" issue with the tranny. With different valve body in the new "re-man" tranny, it's going strong. I changed out the smaller original 7.3 tranny cooler for a larger cooler that comes on 6.0 trucks.
I did have an oil leak from the HP oil pump recently. Easy fix.
With good maintenance, the 7.3 will go forever. Mine still doesn't burn any oil between changes. I run a mild tune from super chips.

Thanks for the info! I am still waiting on a response and the year is one of the questions I have for them.

thanks

[enthusiast]

Resurrecting this from the dead. I had to make some changes and put off buying the truck. I just found this truck and it has the 7.3 which I like. It has 257K on the motor. Thoughts?

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4614877071.html

http://images.craigslist.org/00s0s_bbglIXRjD0j_600x450.jpg

[blackford76]

Looks good to go. Provided the trans paperwork is legit. The little trim pieces on the interior all look to be present and in good shape. Because many of those little things are fragile, the fact they are still there tells you the owner gave a shit about his truck.
That, and he is a Husker fan.[Coffee]

[sniper7]

Looks nice and clean and like he took good care of it. And if the paperwork for the tranny is good to go, I'd today that motor would last forever.

diesels are just amazing, I just bought a new duramax with the Allison. Doesn't even feel like there is anything behind you and still gets great mpg for such a heavy vehicle.

whatever you do, stay away for the ford 6.0. Biggest pos ever made. My friend has out in over 10k into his truck in the last 2 years and it's an 03 with 160k on it.

[Bailey Guns]

I've owned 3 Fords with the 7.3L: 93 non-turbo F350 Crew Cab, 94 F350 dually first-year Powerstroke and an 02 F250. All were great trucks and I'd put them up against anything in terms of the motor. The 93 would go through a set of tires about every 11k to 12k miles. That got expensive. The 94 just hauled a camper and I only owned it 2 years. Great truck...bought it with 212k on it and it ran like a scalded cat. The 02 was a great truck when I wasn't replacing the POS Ford alternators. Went through 4 of them under warranty and the kept putting the same one in. After the 4th one failed I got tired of it and put in the best alternator I could find and never had another maintenance issue with it. I bought it new in 02 for $29,900. I traded it in 2010 with 51k on it and got $22k in trade from the Elway Chevy. Not bad. They really wanted that 7.3L PS...probably sold it for over $30k.

I now have a 14 Chevy 2500HD with the LML Duramax. Holy crap does it make some power and it's one of the quietest vehicles I've ever been in. But I still have a soft spot for the 7.3L. Too bad the gov't has totally f**ked over the diesel buying public. These engines could do some amazing things if the damn government would get outta the way. Actually, the manufacturers do amazing things with these big diesels in spite of the gov't...certainly not because of the gov't.

[cableguy11]

F250 = IFS front end...had one and hated it. Chewed up ball joints, tie rods, and tires!

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

I still have a soft spot for the 7.3L.

Likewise. I really wanted one.

[roberth]

That looks like a nice truck, looks like he took care of it, should have another 200K miles left to go. Check the tranmission thoroughly.

Check the door sticker for the axle codes to see what gears it has in it.

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/ring_and_pinions/what_rear_end_ratio_do_i_have_in_my_ford__is_it_po si.html

[mcantar18c]

I've owned 3 Fords with the 7.3L: 93 non-turbo F350 Crew Cab, 94 F350 dually first-year Powerstroke and an 02 F250.

The 7.3 Indirect Injection (IDI), and it's thicker-walled but otherwise identical brother the 6.9 IDI, is NOT the same engine as the 7.3 Powerstroke (PSD). Entirely different designs.

I'll take a 20 year old 7.3 PSD with 200k+ on the clock over a stupid fancy new Dodge almost-truck any day. Those things are absolutely solid, best engine ever made in a passenger vehicle in my opinion.

[buffalobo]

I have 400,000 on my 2000, still going strong. Will need transmission next 100,000 or so. Planning on engine rebuild around 600,000. Best thing since sliced bread.

lobbed from my electronic ball and chain

[ZERO THEORY]

F250 = IFS front end...had one and hated it. Chewed up ball joints, tie rods, and tires!

Ford half tons have IFS, but the 3/4 & 1 tons don't unless you buy a 2WD model. Chevy is the only one of the big three that will put IFS on a 4WD heavy duty truck.

[blackford76]

Ford half tons have IFS, but the 3/4 & 1 tons don't unless you buy a 2WD model. Chevy is the only one of the big three that will put IFS on a 4WD heavy duty truck.

Nope. '80 thru '98 F-250's have TTB front axles. F-350's are all solid.

[mcantar18c]

Ford half tons have IFS, but the 3/4 & 1 tons don't unless you buy a 2WD model. Chevy is the only one of the big three that will put IFS on a 4WD heavy duty truck.


Nope. '80 thru '98 F-250's have TTB front axles. F-350's are all solid.
Blackford is right on this one. I swapped in a D60 on one of my OBS F250s.

[cableguy11]

Nope. '80 thru '98 F-250's have TTB front axles. F-350's are all solid.

That is correct! If I remember correctly F250's have dana D50 TTB, F350 have Dana D60 solid axle.

[ZERO THEORY]

Nope. '80 thru '98 F-250's have TTB front axles. F-350's are all solid.

I stand corrected. My mistake.

[BushMasterBoy]

I'm a GM guy, but I googled this diesel forum...

http://forums.dieselpowermag.com/70/9633423/power-stroke/1996-ford-f250-73-powerstroke-new-owner-questions/

[rockhound]

i have played the modern diesel game...

never again,

the older diesels were way more reliable, louder, but reliable. do a google search for fuel related problems to the new diesel motors, since they went to the 23,000 lb injection pressures on the modern diesels they have been nothing , but problems, my cummins was a badass truck, total custom 8 passenger one ton diesel dually, beautiful truck, never missed an oil change, taken care of like no other truck on the planet, ate me alive in repairs, to the tune of 25K over the last three years i owned it. I finally replaced the motor and sold it as fast as possible. cummins is not the only one, everyone i know that has a modern diesel that keeps them past 150K or so is having nothing but issues,


the 7.3, old dodge 12 or 24 valve were better engines, not as powerful, but way more reliable, if you are going to a diesel the 7.3 or cummins 24 valve is a decent choice

problem you will have with the older 7.3 or other diesels is that they were not designed to run on the crappy diesel they produce now, no lubrication coming from the fuel, you will have to run a fuel additive at every fill up, guys are adding old engine oil, 2 stroke oil, power steering fluid, or one of the actual additive like power service. increases the cost of owning and operating an older diesel.

I can tell you right now that I moved from my cummins to the 8.1 vortec chevy, It has as much torque and power as the 7.3, makes power like a diesel, very flat torque curve, moves my 12K fifth wheel just fine, i have made some minor mods, I am getting decent mileage, 12-16 and 9 pulling the rv, it runs on regular gas, i can replace the entire motor with a factory crate engine for less than the cost of a set of injectors on my cummins.

i bought a 2001 with very low miles, like no miles, it makes almost as much power as the same year duramax and is naturally aspirated. i have a few more mods planned mostly just air flow, you can get 600 ft lbs out of this motor without doing much more than air flow, when finished i expect to see solid mpg and as much power as my cummins. I did a lot of research prior to switching from a diesel,

my truck will get as good mpg as the newer diesels, or the 7.3 and runs on fuel that is 30-60 cents a gallon cheaper depending on the time of year.

[enthusiast]

I finally found the truck I am going to buy. What a long and weird journey. I met some real characters along the way and am glad it is over. I know that there are a lot of haters on the 6.0L Ford motor. [dig] I did a lot of research and this truck has already been partially bullet proofed and I plan on doing the rest. I went out and invested in a scan tool (autoenginuity) and scanned each truck and this one was great. He has never molested it and never hauled with it.

First thing will be to remove the tool box.

Thanks to everyone for their replies and advice.

57478

[Bailey Guns]

Looks like a nice truck. Congrats.

[fly boy]

I finally found the truck I am going to buy. What a long and weird journey. I met some real characters along the way and am glad it is over. I know that there are a lot of haters on the 6.0L Ford motor. [dig] I did a lot of research and this truck has already been partially bullet proofed and I plan on doing the rest. I went out and invested in a scan tool (autoenginuity) and scanned each truck and this one was great. He has never molested it and never hauled with it.

First thing will be to remove the tool box.

Thanks to everyone for their replies and advice.

57478

I wanted the 6.0. they have a FICM and injector issue, but if you plan on bullet proofing it, then you will be setting yourself up for better aftermarkets when/if they fail.

nice truck! :thumbsup:

[Dave_L]

Welcome to the diesel world. You'll never go back. Nice looking truck!

[MED]

Looks like a nice truck. Congrats.

+1