Duracoat

[Fridayffl]

Looking for feedback on Dura coat product. Anyone use it? and How did You like it? How was the durability in the long run?

Thanks

[SideShow Bob]

Try using the search function, there are several threads on duracoat......

[Great-Kazoo]

[hahhah-no]

[Mtn.man]

Go to Painters Supply, my mind has gone blank but we use a $151.00 spray on liner that the sprayer comes with it, it is tougher than woodpecker lips and we have done several trailers with it with fantastic results.

[theGinsue]

I think the OP is referencing Duracoat for use on firearms.

[BPTactical]

DuraCoat is nothing more than a modified, catylized (hardener required) machinery paint similar to Imron.
It is modified with solids such as molybdenum for its lubricating properties.
Application requires careful attention to mixing ratios of the catylist, 12:1 IIRC. An improper mixture or an error in application will result in either: A-too flat a finish or B- too glossy a finish.
As it is a catylized product it has a limited "pot life" (time it can sit after being mixed) forget about cleaning your equipment and you get to buy new equipment, once cured it is there forever.
It is a fairly thick coating and I don't care for that at all, fine rollmarks lose definition.
With it being fairly thick, finely fitted parts such a a 1911 slide may require considerable time refitting before reliable function can be expected.
One of the biggest detractors to me is a slow cure time, it distributor-Lauer Weaponry recommends 4-6 weeks of cure time before subjecting the item to wear.
From a money making standpoint I don't want an item hanging in my shop for 3 weeks prior to reassembling it.
Try to reassemble it too soon and you are rewarded with thumbprints in the finish!
Then you get the joy of re doing it.
As with any "applied" finish(paint) it is subject to the same pitfalls, too thick a coating and it is prone to chipping, too thin it wears quickly.
It is tough stuff and the only way to remove it is sandblasting.
Personally I hate it, there are better products on the market that have a long proven track record.
Look up "Norrels MolyResin". IMO it blows Duracoat into the weeds.

[JMBD2112]

DuraCoat is nothing more than a modified, catylized (hardener required) machinery paint similar to Imron.
It is modified with solids such as molybdenum for its lubricating properties.
Application requires careful attention to mixing ratios of the catylist, 12:1 IIRC. An improper mixture or an error in application will result in either: A-too flat a finish or B- too glossy a finish.
As it is a catylized product it has a limited "pot life" (time it can sit after being mixed) forget about cleaning your equipment and you get to buy new equipment, once cured it is there forever.
It is a fairly thick coating and I don't care for that at all, fine rollmarks lose definition.
With it being fairly thick, finely fitted parts such a a 1911 slide may require considerable time refitting before reliable function can be expected.
One of the biggest detractors to me is a slow cure time, it distributor-Lauer Weaponry recommends 4-6 weeks of cure time before subjecting the item to wear.
From a money making standpoint I don't want an item hanging in my shop for 3 weeks prior to reassembling it.
Try to reassemble it too soon and you are rewarded with thumbprints in the finish!
Then you get the joy of re doing it.
As with any "applied" finish(paint) it is subject to the same pitfalls, too thick a coating and it is prone to chipping, too thin it wears quickly.
It is tough stuff and the only way to remove it is sandblasting.
Personally I hate it, there are better products on the market that have a long proven track record.
Look up "Norrels MolyResin". IMO it blows Duracoat into the weeds.

Good info Bert, you probably just stopped me from trying it on one of my rifles

[Fridayffl]

Great info and thanks for the feedback. I will check it out.