View Full Version : I made a barrel stove.
Questions?
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whats it for?
how much did it cost?
DSB OUTDOORS
09-29-2013, 13:52
Looks good. Awful lot of sparks in that 2nd pic. with the 2 gas cans in the back. But I see you had some wine to put any fires out with. [Flame] I was wondering about cost myself??
I'm going to put it into my covered patio for winter. I'm going to build a half wall of cinder blocks to reflect heat back in and plumb chimney pipe up and out.
Those gas cans were originally getting showered with sparks, so I moved them to where they are in the picture. All the sparks were shooting toward the camera for the most part. I had my wife standing by with a fire extinguisher and a second set up eyes.
The cost for the barrel kit was $61.80 from Home Depot with free shipping to my house. I got the barrel for free.
I'm burning the paint off now, and will take it apart and paint it with some high temp paint (gray) that I picked up at Depot.
Last night was embarrassing as I wasn't getting a hot, clean burn. There was so much smoke I thought for sure the fire department was going to come. Figured it out today though.
n8tive97
09-29-2013, 14:02
Very nice....
Did you put any fire brick or sand in the bottom? Inside or outside use?
You could fry eggs and bacon on top of it. [Dinner]
Did you put any fire brick or sand in the bottom? Inside or outside use?
You could fry eggs and bacon on top of it. [Dinner]
After I paint it, I'm going to put some play ground sand in the bottom, but not so high that it covers that inlet hole. The stove will be outside in a partially enclosed space. I have a bunch of pictures of the area now, and plan to show a before and after kind of deal.
I've seen where people add two tubes on either side, they lay a cast iron griddle of some sort across the top for a cooking surface. I've got no plans for that, but considered it.
That second pic is cool
Thanks. My wife was taking pictures and took about 15 more of that same picture.
buffalobo
09-29-2013, 14:28
Looks good, paint it stove black, will look better longer.
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
I saw this video and couldn't resist doing a gray. My gray probably will look more silver than the one in this video, but we'll see how it turns out.
fhkCc33Dtas
Could you seal that up well enough for indoor use??
I worked in a drafty machine shop that had a 2-barrel stove in it, and that sumbitch would put out some heat! When the cheap bastard would actually buy some wood, that is. Couldn't keep up with the drafts though, it was a real shithole of a shop. You could see daylight through the walls and roof everywhere you looked. Basically a pole barn covered with scrap tin, really redneck and 3rd world.
But the stove was impressive! I wouldn't hesitate to put one in a good shop, it would heat like a maniac. The 2-barrel option is a good one, the 2nd barrel radiates a HUGE amount of heat.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/tools/yhst-95622685483394_2271_629119437.jpg
Could you seal that up well enough for indoor use??
Yes, the door model in the video I linked, and shown in Ron's photo is the air tight model that comes with gasketed doors.
If you check out the Wranglerstar video, he's got a double barrel stove, and he plumbed a used oil line into it for even more heat. I have the imagine Wranglerstar's stove puts out some insane heat.
argonstrom
09-29-2013, 18:00
That is cool as hell (so to speak)! I have zero experience with them, so forgive the stupid question - do they have / need some sort of spark arrestor in the flue?
JM Ver. 2.0
09-29-2013, 18:04
That is cool as hell (so to speak)! I have zero experience with them, so forgive the stupid question - do they have / need some sort of spark arrestor in the flue?
So uh...... What are you going to engrave into yours when you make it?
StagLefty
09-29-2013, 18:05
Very cool project !
That's a good question I think. If you had a double barrel, or some kind of baffle, you wouldn't need one. I don't think I'll need on on this one. I can get flames to come out of the flue when it is as short as you see in the picture. If you are burning wood, I don't think it will be necessary, if you burn a lot of paper though, then you might want one. My grandpa made a bunch of logs out of rolled up news paper, and burning those will shoot red hot bits of paper out of the chimney. I think you'd really be okay with just normal wood burning. While I was burning card board and stuff today (basically all my trash wood) I didn't have any questionable sparks coming out.
So uh...... What are you going to engrave into yours when you make it?
Well, obviously he's going to lightly inscribe the thing from Lord of the Rings, so it glows when it heats up.
By the way guys, I am VERY amateur at projects like this. So if I can do it, any one of you can. I've got some specific advice about mounting the door and techniques and mistakes and stuff if anyone wants to know. The kit is actually pretty low quality, so nothing is really even(like the legs).
How long is it expected to last before rusting through? Is the plan to just replace the barrel when that happens and keep on going?
argonstrom
09-29-2013, 19:03
So uh...... What are you going to engrave into yours when you make it?
Well, obviously he's going to lightly inscribe the thing from Lord of the Rings, so it glows when it heats up.
Coolest idea ever! :)
That's a good question I think. If you had a double barrel, or some kind of baffle, you wouldn't need one. I don't think I'll need on on this one. I can get flames to come out of the flue when it is as short as you see in the picture. If you are burning wood, I don't think it will be necessary, if you burn a lot of paper though, then you might want one. My grandpa made a bunch of logs out of rolled up news paper, and burning those will shoot red hot bits of paper out of the chimney. I think you'd really be okay with just normal wood burning. While I was burning card board and stuff today (basically all my trash wood) I didn't have any questionable sparks coming out.
Right on - thanks! Seems like a project cool enough to pass up!
How long is it expected to last before rusting through? Is the plan to just replace the barrel when that happens and keep on going?
Wranglerstar has been burning used motor oil in his to increase the heat and at the time of his video he had his for three years without burning the barrels out. The fire brick or sand is supposed to protect the bottom from burn out. So far, it seems as if the bottom is the coolest when the ash builds up. I've had over 500 degrees on the top and only in the 200's on the very bottom. I haven't planned for a new barrel, as I don't know hoe long we'll live here.
Nice build. I'm always jealous of people who can craft stuff like these or the ammo can stoves.
Nice build. I'm always jealous of people who can craft stuff like these or the ammo can stoves.
I used an electric drill, a borrowed sawzall with a metal blade, and a hand held grinder with a metal grinding wheel. Barrel stoves have been on my radar for a few years, but I always thought you had to weld the stuff on. I've had the barrel for 6 months now, but only recently realized I wouldn't have to weld. Took me a couple of nights of work and watching a bunch of Youtube videos for ideas and tips.
OtterbatHellcat
09-29-2013, 20:59
I like it, Irving.
Cool.
I've got access to new barrels if anyone needs one.
argonstrom
09-29-2013, 21:22
I like it, Irving.
Cool.
I've got access to new barrels if anyone needs one.
Hook me up! :)
So the plan is to make a waist high wall of cinder blocks around my patio, excluding an area in opposing corners where the doorways are. Currently the patio is covered with corrugated plastic roofing, like so, that is being held up by an aluminum frame.
http://www.exproofing.com/wp-content/uploads/Corrugated-plastic-roofing1.jpeg
I'm planning to trade the plastic for metal.
http://www.wedostandingseam.com/images/portfolio/corrugated%20metal%20roofing.jpg
Now stay with me here. The patio is backed by two brick walls on my house, and two open sides. I'll be putting up the waist high cinder block wall on the two open sides, leaving a door way at each end where the wall would meet the house. The stove will go in the corner where the cinder block walls meet. I want the cinder block wall to go to the ceiling in the corner where the stove is. I'm thinking maybe 2-3' out from the corner on each side. The plan is to run stove pipe up that corner, and instead of cutting through the roof, dog leg the chimney through the cinder block wall through the second to top row of blocks. Then I'll run it slightly over the patio roof and put a rain cover on it. I was thinking that since all this will be outdoors, only partially enclosed, and not near any combustable material, I could get away with using cheaper single wall chimney pipe that I wouldn't use inside of a structure. However, looking at this picture, I wonder if single wall will be an issue. Thoughts? This patio I described is approximately 8' x 14'.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r_Ls0xxth0s/Ukjd7-0EtBI/AAAAAAAAE1g/JCvB-9FPd4I/w1109-h624-no/20130929_201149.jpg
Here is what it looks like with most the paint burned off.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5Bhh-seeZpM/UkiwKKvK_uI/AAAAAAAAE0M/DxqQZROvc9U/w1109-h624-no/20130929_165630.jpg
MileHighOutlaw
09-30-2013, 06:48
I like it, Irving.
Cool.
I've got access to new barrels if anyone needs one.
How much?
sellersm
09-30-2013, 08:36
My Dad made something similar, back in the 60's when I was a kid. It heated our cabin for a while until he got an old cast iron stove. "Barrel stoves" seemed to be popular back then, at least in the rural part of NY where I grew up. Me likey!! [Alrigh]
StagLefty
09-30-2013, 08:45
If I remember correctly you have at least one daughter-are you putting up some kind of protection around it so no one gets burnt hands. I saw that in the video you linked.
No, she is big enough to know better.
I guess these stoves became popular in the 60's and 70's during the oil shortage.
Cofi, read the comments on the video I linked before putting one in your house. Probably not EPA approved and 1970's technology for sure. A lot less efficient burn and probably more creosote build up than in a newer wood stove. Creosote is what causes chimney fires.
No, she is big enough to know better.
I guess these stoves became popular in the 60's and 70's during the oil shortage.
Cofi, read the comments on the video I linked before putting one in your house. Probably not EPA approved and 1970's technology for sure. A lot less efficient burn and probably more creosote build up than in a newer wood stove. Creosote is what causes chimney fires.
and the camp fire taste when smoking bacon.
I was looking a putting a double barrel stove in the garage but it took up too much room.
If you are trying to bypass the roof, use joints with 45˚ or less angles. It will make it easier to clean the pipes. You can add a topper on the pipe to keep critters out and catch some ashes.
Just reread post #28. If the pipe will exit out the CB wall, use 90˚ joints. I don't know what code would be for single wall pipe through an exterior wall. I don't see a problem but I'm not expert.
How close are you putting the stove to the brick (house) walls? I think the min is 16" but those stoves can put out some heat. You might look at adding an extra heat layer to the brick. Maybe something like aluminum sheet metal with 1" square tubing for mounting.
Closest the barrel would be to the brick on the house would be something like 5 feet. It will be in the opposite corner. Pook, what if you built a double barrel out of the 30 gallon drums?
So you guys with stove experience know, but for people who don't, let me tell you about the efficiency. I closed up the stove around 10pm last night. It was a little warm this morning to the touch when I left. I got home around 7pm tonight and the top of the barrel was completely cold. On the bottom though, it was too hot to touch for long. I measured 129*. So I opened the flue, opened then door and everything just looked like cold ashes. I stuck a shovel in and stirred everything up. In two minutes the top of the barrel was reading 150*. In five minutes ALL the coals were burning and the stove was back up to 330+ degrees. All you had to do was set a log in there and you'd be good to go. I'm trying to cool everything off so I can clean it out to paint it, so I didn't relight it. I really have to imagine that people who heat with wood probably only light approximately one match a season.
ChunkyMonkey
09-30-2013, 20:17
Closest the barrel would be to the brick on the house would be something like 5 feet. It will be in the opposite corner. Pook, what if you built a double barrel out of the 30 gallon drums?
So you guys with stove experience know, but for people who don't, let me tell you about the efficiency. I closed up the stove around 10pm last night. It was a little warm this morning to the touch when I left. I got home around 7pm tonight and the top of the barrel was completely cold. On the bottom though, it was too hot to touch for long. I measured 129*. So I opened the flue, opened then door and everything just looked like cold ashes. I stuck a shovel in and stirred everything up. In two minutes the top of the barrel was reading 150*. In five minutes ALL the coals were burning and the stove was back up to 330+ degrees. All you had to do was set a log in there and you'd be good to go. I'm trying to cool everything off so I can clean it out to paint it, so I didn't relight it. I really have to imagine that people who heat with wood probably only light approximately one match a season.
Thats pretty impressive.
OtterbatHellcat
09-30-2013, 22:07
I asked Irving before I posted this about the barrels in his thread...
I said "new", meaning they're not beat to hell, and held either LV tranny fluid, or 5-20 motor oil one time. The barrels I have now are spoken for, and we generate about one barrel a month. Unfortunately, several of them have been shot up before Irving made them something folks were looking for.
We drain them the best we can, and if you're interested in a free barrel, pm me...and a short waiting list is already beginning to grow.
Irving, I think it's a cool project you're going through, and I'd like to see how you have it all turn out for ya, thanks for sharing your experience with it... :)
I ended up finding a double wall cast iron fireplace insert that accepted a blower.
What are you burning?
So far, I've burned very little good wood. I mostly burned the dead trimmings from my grape vine that I cut out at the end of last winter. I had some Sumac that we pulled out of my yard around this time last year, some scrap dead wood that had been laying around and some scraps from projects that have been building up in my garage. I also burned some card board I had around taking up space. I have some firewood that I brought from my last place, but haven't had a place to burn it yet. Now that I have this stove, I will probably start collecting wood again.
Update: I've fininshed painting it. I used the cheap high heat stuff I got from Home Depot for about $4 a can. Took me two cans. Says it is good up 1200* and has a picture of a stove on the front. I found some woodstove rope gasket on Amazon for $6 per 6 feet. This will replace the rubber gasket that was between the lid and barrel. I don't plan on sealing the lid, in case I want to take it off later for maintenance or something.
Before I put the lid back in, I need to decide what to do for the inside as far as using firebrick, sand, or making a grate. My neighbor offered to help me make a grate out of scrap angle iron if I go pick it up. I like that idea as lifting everything up will help get air under for a better burn.
I haven't decided if I'll fashion a cover for the large bung or not yet. I like what Wranglerstar did a lot. I also saw another video where a guy slides a pipe into the barrel, with air holes drilled into it. This would greatly help getting even air into the stove. I think I could actually do both. My debate is how much time to spend on something that will get occasional use, and already works well enough for what I want. On the other hand, it won't take much more money to implement these ideas, and I'm really learning that it pays to take the time to do stuff right.
I found a great deal on stove pipe on Amazon as well. A 5-pack of 6" x 48" single wall for under $55. I don't need 20', but the next best deal is 6" x 24" for $9.99 a pop. If I buy 8', that will run me $40ish. So might as well have 12' extra laying around for the ten dollar difference. I also decided to just go straight up through the corrugated roof. A lot more simple that way. I can just lay down another sheet when I move.
Finally, both the flue and the door have 8-12 holes for mounting. It was a major pain lining the holes up on the door and I didn't do all that great. By the time I got to the flue, I realized this isn't a hurricane stove, and I really only need 4 holes. I realize so many holes means more bolts to keep the thin metal sealed tight. The flue is small and will be fine. As for the door, I am going to just use the four corners and put more gasket along the edges to seal up the extra holes. Also, I am going to take the damper out of the flue, and relocate it up to the first joint in the stove pipe. The original location being so close to the barrel, I hear that it will fail almlst right away (see last picture).
Any thoughts?
buffalobo
10-05-2013, 15:48
Use rebar for your grate, easy to cut, bend and weld.
And it is cheap.
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
That's a grate idea. Thanks.
hurley842002
10-05-2013, 17:38
That's a grate idea. Thanks.
LOL, I see what you did there.
I think my damper is about 3.5' from the box. Still have good air control and it doesn't get hot.
buffalobo
10-05-2013, 18:50
I think my damper is about 3.5' from the box. Still have good air control and it doesn't get hot.
^^^This, especially with barrel stoves. Also won't corrode quite so fast.
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
OtterbatHellcat
10-05-2013, 21:02
The lid on your barrel is removable, so that invites ease of some of the the things you described for upgrading. One thing a guy could do, removable lid or not, would be to fill it halfway up with pea gravel or small rocks, and then take..say.... 6 pieces of 2 x 2 angle iron cut into 33" long pieces and place them onto the gravel/rock bed. That should allow lots of airflow I would think. Wouldn't cost all that much either, I don't think.
Place the angle iron on the bed like this ... ^
Lean to > Swedish layer
[Coffee]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yYPz2xuyHc
A good over view on how to use a Swedish layer to not burn the bottom of your stove out.
That's basically the same thing as the upside down fire that I used to use in my fireplace. Putting the big stuff on the bottom like that helps you create a fire that burns for a long time and doesn't need nearly as much wood, or attention.
One thing I would like to do is weld in a baffle. Had I planned better, I would have saved the piece of metal I cut out for the door and used that. Any suggestions on what I should use now that would be pretty cheap? Any idea how large the baffle should be? For example, if it stretched 50% of the length of the stove, compared to 75% of the length of the stove; would either of those lengths be ideal over the other? I'll have to consult that stove making book I posted here before and see what it says about baffels.
Thanks for all the tips. Keep them coming.
I am really impressed, and very grateful for the pictures and video that you posted. :) I've often wondered about barrel stoves.
One thing- and it may not even apply: don't burn stuff like poison ivy, poison oak or poison sumac. It's a real pain to keep it separate when clearing the yard and burning all the yard debris, but the oils and particulates in those plants will float up the chimney and get EVERYWHERE, including in the air you breathe. (We had a cast iron wood stove when I was growing up.)
Thanks for the tip. I know I burned sumac but it wasn't poison.
For an outside stove, I wouldn't worry too much about baffles. Adjust the flue and front air vents to adjust the heat.
For an inside heater, I would add a baffle just so the maximum use of the fuel is reached. Maybe weld some angle iron length wise, on both sides, toward the top of the barrel. Slide in a couple of pieces of heavier gauge steel. Use the two pieces to adjust the amount of baffle. Make sure they are removable for easy cleaning of the top inside of the barrel.
Reminds me, I have to buy a chimney brush tomorrow.
I like the idea of welding in the angle iron bracket, and having a slide in baffle. If using a baffle will give me a more efficient, cleaner burn, and allow my wood to last longer; then I want one.
I need to put baffles in my current wood stove. It has tubes running through it for a blower. A few pieces of 1/8" strapping, across the tubes, would move the heat to the front of the stove. Not sure how much more efficient it would be. The cast iron stove gets pretty hot with very little wood as it is.
Is there any reason I couldn't use a piece of floor tile for a baffle? Not exactly what they were designed for, but cheap enough to put in until I find something else. I think I'll try that just see how well it works.
ETA: A bit of an update. The paint is all dry, but the cheap Rust-oleum High Heat paint scratches easy. I can scratch it with just my thumb nail, not very hard at all. Also, I have our old oven/range sitting in my garage with 3 different oven racks in it. One of the racks from the big bottom oven fits right inside the barrel at pretty much the perfect height. Not as tough or heavy as rebar, but about 40x as cheap.
OtterbatHellcat
10-13-2013, 22:29
I like that you're still working with this, Irving.
The oven rack idea sounds really good. I look forward to seeing your improvements and ideas implemented......pics.
Everything has gone great so far, except for one thing.
I was able to obtain 10 sheets of 12' metal roofing, for FREE. I think I'll probably be able to pull of cinder blocks for a decent deal as well, just need to keep my eyes open. I ordered 20' of 6" stove pipe from Amazon for $19, but then shipping was $31. Still cheaper than the store I think. The stove pipe should be here this week. The glass oven door seal tape should be shipped soon as well, and I've got a sealer from Home Depot waiting for when that arrives.
The one thing I really screwed up on was leveling the flue. I sat on the stove and took my time making sure the flue was level. I drilled all the holes, got it installed, checked again and the dang thing isn't level! The legs weren't the most easy to line up and drill correctly either due to the structure of the leg and the placement of the holes. So there is a slight rock to the stove, but something a sugar packet ought to take care of ;). Anyway, I think I will be doomed to having a crooked stove pipe and looking like a dummy, unless I can just wedge it in there at an angle to compensate.
I took some pictures of the progress on the patio (roof), but I'll get more pictures of the stove up as they come available. It's just been sitting in the garage waiting for me to put it back together.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ADsS2ARccKA/Uk-XucUd64I/AAAAAAAAE_k/aSz1thY4gCI/w351-h624-no/20131004_214028.jpg
OtterbatHellcat
10-13-2013, 22:40
Cool, Man.
First time projects always will have some revamps and "oh I shoulda's"..
argonstrom
10-15-2013, 15:52
Thanks for the idea, Irving & thanks for the barrel, Otter! :)
Obviously, I still need to figure out its placement, burn off the paint, re-paint, etc...
http://i.imgur.com/3SOcedo.jpg
Alright! If I could redo mine, I'd have placed the door like you did. Did it heat up as much as you expected?
hurley842002
10-15-2013, 18:29
Oh to have my own back yard to enjoy one of these, someday!
argonstrom
10-15-2013, 18:36
Alright! If I could redo mine, I'd have placed the door like you did. Did it heat up as much as you expected?
I've only run paper & some sticks through it thus far, but it does get warm quick!
OtterbatHellcat
10-15-2013, 21:11
Nice job, Argon.
Looks great.
I was so excited for my 5 sections of 6"x48" stove pipe to show up in the mail today. When I got home, the chumps only sent me a single section!
So I emailed the chumps. They apologized profusely for their great mistake and gave me a full refund. They didn't offer to send me the rest of the product. They acted as if they made an error with the ad, which very clearly states that it is a pack of 5. So now I have one free section that is not enough. This is the stuff you have to hook together. It came out of round and bent up. From what I can tell, it will take approximately 5 people at once to get this section together properly.
Time to browse Craigs List for used chimney pipe I guess.
ChunkyMonkey
10-16-2013, 22:55
ETA: A bit of an update. The paint is all dry, but the cheap Rust-oleum High Heat paint scratches easy.
Engine enamel! I painted a turbo down tube (excess of 1100 degree) and the color stays.
ChunkyMonkey
10-16-2013, 22:56
Whoops.. Vht engine enamel
I came across this video about how to make a forge out of a soup can (worth a watch).
jBVa2bw3r_k
Guy uses a 50/50 mix of Plaster of Paris and sand to make a fire proof lining for the forge. Looks like you can get a 25lb bag on Amazon for only $12. Same bag is $15 at Home Depot.
I was wondering about if this 50/50 mix could be applied to the barrel stove for any application. You wouldn't coat the whole barrel, as it would defeat the purpose, but I wonder about doing a lay on the bottom, instead of just sand or a fire grate. Honestly though, it seems like overkill. If anything, at least check out the cool video. That'd be my next project, but I have zero uses for a forge at this time.
cool stove stu ! [Awesom]
Thanks Alex.
Anyone have any ideas about sealing up the chimney pipe when I run it through a corrugated roof? I'd just cut close and silicone it up, but the roof has so little pitch that I'm afraid any obstruction will just cause a puddle. Actually, I'm going to do exactly that. I've been putting this job off for too long. One channel of occasional puddled water won't be a big deal. I've been thinking about making some elaborate corrugated cricket for a week now.
Anyone have any tips on assembling the black stove pipe I have? I have a 4' black pipe (single wall) and a 6' galvanized pipe (single wall). The galvanized is flimsy and pushed right together. The black pipe is just stiff enough that I feel like I'm trying to press two nails together. I feel like a giant ape when I fumble around with it. Do I just throw my gloves on and be a man about it, or is there a secret? It doesn't help that the pipe they sent me is all bent out of shape either.
Drill little holes and use sheet metal screws after you get the sections together?
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-28-2013, 20:56
Might need to use some sheet metal crimpers so the pipe will slide together.
Great-Kazoo
10-28-2013, 21:08
Thanks Alex.
Anyone have any ideas about sealing up the chimney pipe when I run it through a corrugated roof? I'd just cut close and silicone it up, but the roof has so little pitch that I'm afraid any obstruction will just cause a puddle. Actually, I'm going to do exactly that. I've been putting this job off for too long. One channel of occasional puddled water won't be a big deal. I've been thinking about making some elaborate corrugated cricket for a week now.
Anyone have any tips on assembling the black stove pipe I have? I have a 4' black pipe (single wall) and a 6' galvanized pipe (single wall). The galvanized is flimsy and pushed right together. The black pipe is just stiff enough that I feel like I'm trying to press two nails together. I feel like a giant ape when I fumble around with it. Do I just throw my gloves on and be a man about it, or is there a secret? It doesn't help that the pipe they sent me is all bent out of shape either.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061BR9V0/ref=asc_df_B0061BR9V02789723?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextagus0068302-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B0061BR9V0
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-28-2013, 21:10
High temp silicone.
Thanks Jim. I bought a tube locally. I ordered some fire rope gasket from Amazon, but it is way too thick. It fits perfectly in the lid, but fills it up completely and can't get it to clamp onto the barrel. I'll have to go find a much thinner kind.
Hghclsswhitetrash: I'll probably do that around the pipe through the roof. I guess I'll try to have it done by this weekend, minus the cinder block wall.
enthusiast
10-28-2013, 21:59
I have found fire rope at Ace Hardware in varying sizes for my ammo can stove.
I got the barrel stove all together tonight.
enthusiast: Thanks for the tip. I just decided to put the lid on with the clamp and no gasket. I'm sure it will be fine. If it isn't, I can go back and do it again later.
I got that pipe fitted together finally. I stood in my garage and thought of all the role model men on this site that I am surrounded by, HBARleatherneck, who only stops making kids long enough to dig his own septic tank by hand, build a pole barn, and lay 200 yards of concrete sidewalk. Jim, who after having me turn down an offer to buy his bench top vice for $50 because I couldn't afford it, immediately tried to get me to buy his house for $225,000. MickBoy, who kicks in 7 doors each morning before breakfast, on a Saturday. BaileyGuns, who delivers the same political argument 50 times in a row each month, but doesn't get angry until the 49th time. And finally Ronin, who said such mean things behind his secretary's back, that she would probably cry if he ever said them to her face.
I thought of all those influential men, put on my gloves, and wrestled that sum'bitch till I got it together!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CnsvNuIZ2lo/Um9AnUtjrOI/AAAAAAAAFWc/jnThRXr7_Ak/w351-h624-no/20131028_225827.jpg
I also drilled a hole and relocated the damper to about 6" below the top of the pipe, so it will be about 3.5' above the stove:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6tDg2MndwJk/Um9At2OD_FI/AAAAAAAAFWo/ax6LOEK3pyI/w1109-h624-no/20131028_225856.jpg
The pipe is all bent up from trying to jam it into the cast iron flue. I can fit the wide side of the galvanized in, but not the black pipe. I plugged up the holes where the damper used to be with that high temp gasket cement that Jim posted earlier.
I have LOTS of scap wood, if you come get it.
OtterbatHellcat
10-29-2013, 20:49
Irving..........you're alright.
I have LOTS of scap wood, if you come get it.
Is your cell number still the same from a few years ago?
Irving..........you're alright.
Thanks!
enthusiast; just realized you said you have an ammo can stove. Any chance you have pictures you could put on here? I was thinking of trying to build one of those next. I want something to heat up a hunting blind for coyotes.
enthusiast
10-29-2013, 23:26
I just found the other thread (https://www.ar-15.co/threads/110609-Homemade-Stoves) I posted it in. I am going to make a 40mm version also.
I've updated that thread with the stove making book I was talking about. I'll put the links here as well.
Here is that stove making book I spoke of earlier this year.
Making a wood stove: http://autonopedia.org/renewable-energy/woodburners/making-wood-stoves/
Using a wood stove: http://autonopedia.org/renewable-energy/woodburners/using-wood-stoves/
Chad4000
10-30-2013, 12:21
No questions
Is your cell number still the same from a few years ago?
Thanks!
Yeah, I'm sitting at the moment. So, whenever.
Cool idea I want one for my basement. Its cold down here.
Remember this picture from page 2?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r_Ls0xxth0s/Ukjd7-0EtBI/AAAAAAAAE1g/JCvB-9FPd4I/w1109-h624-no/20130929_201149.jpg
I did a test burn tonight with just the 4' stack. I had to prop that rain cover on the top because it was still shooting flames, AND sparks. This isn't the glow from the fire, it is the actual flames shooting into the bottom of the rain cap and flowering out.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NJO2HXefLio/UnGzN5ZniPI/AAAAAAAAFXc/9Szmfy-ko1g/w1109-h624-no/20131030_193150.jpg
Here it is now, all closed up and cooling off. No sparks or flames, just smoke and the whole thing is about 300 degrees cooler (only 250 or so) so I feel comfortable leaving it unattended.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c0Y_MZVWWRk/UnHT-yVSlXI/AAAAAAAAFYc/EVUYtpim8Xo/w351-h624-no/20131030_215208.jpg
I was hoping that moving the damper up high would help it last longer by getting it out of the flames. It's not going to matter if it is still getting blasted like this. I think a baffle is going to have to be a priority now. Once I was burning actual logs, and not cardboard and mail, the sparks pretty much stopped and everything was a lot less scary. When installed, there is going to be an extra 5 feet of pipe on top of that 4' black pipe. I don't think that will calm the sparks down though, as it will just shoot them out the top still. I'm going to look into a spark arrestor to be safe.
Finally, the thin metal oven rack didn't work as well as I thought. I guess people aren't cooking stuff as heavy as logs in the oven. Do those lines look straight to you? The rack must have bowed down in the middle a good 3 inches. That rebar/angle iron grate is looking better and better.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8tHQz2zO7Ok/UnG87jSQgeI/AAAAAAAAFYI/hGEvgJK6HGQ/w1109-h624-no/20131030_201352.jpg
OtterbatHellcat
10-30-2013, 22:20
Cool to see you experimenting, and going for the optimum set up, Irving.
:)
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-30-2013, 22:23
Now you need something similar to this. My in laws have one for their stove and it's awesome. Make one or buy a cheaper one.
http://www.amazon.com/Ecofan-Heat-Powered-Stove-Model-812AM-KBX/dp/B005G2S3JM
Oh yeah. It is about 37-39 degrees outside. Sitting within 3 feet of this thing in full blaze makes you so hot that your clothes burn your skin a bit. 5 feet away and you can feel the heat, but would probably move closer to be comfortable. I'm interested to see how the feel will change when this is under a metal roof and partially enclosed by two full walls, and two partial walls. The range for seating positions when installed will basically be from 4 feet to 10 feet away. Should do a decent job when I keep it roaring.
ETA: Just saw that Ecofan. That is totally awesome, and I love the concept. Not sure how well it'd work outside though.
enthusiast
10-30-2013, 22:52
Where did you get your rain cap from?
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-30-2013, 22:59
The Eco fan will move the heat further at a very low rate of speed. I think one person would really like it haha.
Where did you get your rain cap from?
Lowes for about $10. The fancier ones with the slotted walls can be 4X as much for some reason. I found this one on the website for only $12, but the 6" one I saw in the store was like $40. Think this would work better for the sparks?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_367473-52595-RBVC4_0__?productId=3470811&Ntt=rain+cap+vent&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Drain%2Bcap%2Bvent&facetInfo=
I just Googled spark arrestors, and it looks like all it is, is a screen. I can just attach that myself. I'll have to see it in action though, as I don't see how just a screen will work very well.
I found this huge thread about home made stoves and looks like there are a lot of cool ideas on here:
http://zombiehunters.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26369&sid=f8ca3cabeb5dbac4a2a24fbbc5016ff5
Updates:
The paint on the bottom rear started burning off after only one light burn.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-brqncDEpWuA/UnV6YWOGZgI/AAAAAAAAFaY/hiZ3RnWRQDU/w1109-h624-no/20131102_161904.jpgI needed a spark arrestor so I bought 1/4" animal wire. It's labeled as wire cloth or something, but it clearly metal. The label says it is zinc coated, so I'm a bit worried about it melting. I also picked up a different rain cover at the Habitat For Humanity Restore for only $5. The one next to it in the picture was $10 from Lowes. I was able to measure the inside height and diameter of the rain cap and cut a piece of wire to fit. I rolled it up extra small and crammed it inside and let it expand against the walls. Came out pretty nice.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-si7pvuBIrqU/UnWGsydQ_lI/AAAAAAAAFas/F9qbC7b3IEk/w1109-h624-no/20131102_171037.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--HzXBwtAr80/UnWHrEjj8hI/AAAAAAAAFbE/y7fRq9PPcgE/w1109-h624-no/20131102_171438.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IXg46t9CX78/UnWHo30ioXI/AAAAAAAAFa4/ecSuKYBM4lY/w1109-h624-no/20131102_171448.jpg
Next I took another piece of the wire and cut it into different shapes to experiment with what shape rolls into a cone best. Turns out it is a rectangle. Roll into a tight cone and slide into the bottom of the lowest pipe. I put mine about half way between the stove and damper. The idea here is that a cone will have more spark catching surface area, and more holes so as to not restrict the airflow through the pipe as much. Also, placing it close to the flames will help it be self cleaning. The lower one is the one I'm worried will melt. I stood back and saw 1-3 sparks when I first started the fire. Any spark that made its way out of the chimney was moving very slow and disappeared within 12" of the exit. I never saw another spark for the rest of the night. Seems to be working.
Last night it read 32 degrees
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bjJCHhbBafc/UnXJDCtcG1I/AAAAAAAAFds/aIdedsSee_s/w351-h624-no/20131102_215346.jpg
When the stove was dying down, I had my chair as pictured.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uVUULTaLme4/UnXFYBlL9TI/AAAAAAAAFdE/Lx23yDacYYI/w1109-h624-no/20131102_213906.jpg
Holding the thermometer on the armrest closest to the stove, I was able to max out the thermometer
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m71x-zbqNz4/UnXFBB9D4tI/AAAAAAAAFcg/lvBnm0qR90s/w351-h624-no/20131102_213733.jpg
It is noticeably warmer under the metal roof. I'm concerned that once I put the cinder block walls up that it will be like sitting in a dry sauna. Here is a picture demonstrating that nothing is around to retain heat yet. The cinder blocks will run 2 inches behind where the stove is here.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AOF3XezYQOI/UnWnsWNWShI/AAAAAAAAFbs/1tOK5Kas3T8/w351-h624-no/20131102_193226.jpg
I didn't notice last night when I took this picture, but noticed just now. You can see that the bottom spark arrestor has nearly fallen out of the pipe and into the stove. When everything was cold, it was jammed in there well enough that I couldn't pull it back out when I tried. I'll have to check when it is cold to see what I can change.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TjV2oAC0vns/UnXFkvFZUII/AAAAAAAAFdc/TlM5oOO6XGg/w1109-h624-no/20131102_213956.jpg
mackbamf
11-03-2013, 08:59
Just want to chime in and say that this has been a cool project to watch. You have done a great job and it looks awesome...
Did you use "barbecue pit paint" when you painted it?
Canuckistani
11-03-2013, 09:14
Once you've got the spark arrestor crammed back up into the pipe, run three self-tapping sheet metal screws into the pipe (spaced evenly around it) under the lowest point of the mesh. This will stop the mesh from falling back down into the fire box, and still allow you to remove it if you ever wanted to.
Just want to chime in and say that this has been a cool project to watch. You have done a great job and it looks awesome...
Thank you for the praise.
Once you've got the spark arrestor crammed back up into the pipe, run three self-tapping sheet metal screws into the pipe (spaced evenly around it) under the lowest point of the mesh. This will stop the mesh from falling back down into the fire box, and still allow you to remove it if you ever wanted to.
My neighbor suggested the same thing about the self-tapping screws, but since I was worried it would melt, I didn't want to drill holes for nothing.
Here are some more pictures.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2foXI9zDFOs/UnbVarwPcqI/AAAAAAAAFfw/VgEkbRkYtOA/w351-h624-no/20131103_155858.jpg
I don't like how the supports for the chimney look. It was improvised and it works well enough (but needs a rear support), but I'd like something that looks better.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Dq-GTRAOtn4/UnbMHbpm8oI/AAAAAAAAFfM/ZlzhTbvmQx4/w1109-h624-no/20131103_151946.jpg
I'm kind of embarrassed of how it looks as it comes close to complete though. I tend to start out with grand ideas and end up slacking on the finish. I'm trying not to do that with this project. I've still got to seal around the pipe where it passes through the roof. The last part is cleaning up my patio and putting up a wall.
Ray, this is the stuff I used for the paint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YDycx_A9jgI/Unb4VUStdRI/AAAAAAAAFgE/n55LsKv1SDc/w351-h624-no/20131103_182746.jpg
Looks like the stuff I was referring to. That puppy must be getting pretty hot to burn it off.
I kind of suspect that the part where it peeled just had less layers of paint. The very back corner, and most of the bottom of the stove, is usually 150ish degrees cooler than the rest of the stove because the ashes serve as an insulating layer.
Your post has inspired me. Sort of. Think I may purchase an old "parlor stove" and set it up on my back deck.
Very cool, sir, very cool! Can't wait to see it all finished, block walls and all. I'd be amazed if you ever have success keeping paint on that barrel though. Good luck with that.
Your post has inspired me. Sort of. Think I may purchase an old "parlor stove" and set it up on my back deck.
If you could find something you could use to burn old motor oil, you wouldn't have to worry about sparks. Plus free fuel source.
OtterbatHellcat
11-03-2013, 22:54
Irving, you're kicking some butt, brother.
Well way to go guys now you have me hell bent on desining and building a Stirling Engine heat sink driven fan. I think that it will make a cool Christmas present. I will post some pics here if anything materializes.
OtterbatHellcat
11-03-2013, 23:16
Funny how vicariously participating in someone elses' endeavors often initiates one's own creativity.
:)
Just a quick picture from tonight. This is the second time I've seen it do this. Seems to be in the same spot each time as well. If you don't know what the picture is, that is the side of the stove glowing red.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NIGOBs_4t-M/UpKsLoQXtmI/AAAAAAAAGB4/SsRXBY9NDLw/w996-h560-no/20131124_184721.jpg
I decided to scrap the cinder block idea and put a wall with a top rail (for drinks). The plan is to just have 4x4 posts on each end (one in the middle of the long end), put up durarock, and then get some cheap tile. I think that will be cheaper and look better. I'm going to finish other house projects first and probably get to that idea around spring.
I also have an idea for a removable cooking surface that I'm dying to test out as well. I'll update when ever I get that done.
buckshotbarlow
11-25-2013, 09:42
rock on man, can't wait to see the cinder block build...
Sorry for the bump with out an update. I've been sitting outside since about 9pm now. I got this thing really cranking to the point I could see red on the top with the lights still on. Anyway, it was relatively comfortable to be outside for the first hour or so. I don't know if it is the whiskey, or that it got colder (digital thermometer says it hasn't gotten much colder) but sitting out here in a parka is very strange and right now. You are literally burning, or freezing. For example, holding my phone in my right hand, with the stove to my right, my fingers are so hot it is uncomfortable. I would pull them away except my thumb on the same hand, on the other side of the phone, is numb from cold.
So like I said, you are either burning or freezing. When I came out around 8:45 pm, the ground measured 8 degrees, and the stove measured -11 degrees. When it was red hot every part was over 610 (max reading), and I melted the snow in 3 feet in every direction.
enthusiast
01-06-2014, 21:14
I thought you would like this
Build a deluxe barrel stove
39029
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/lee108.html
I saw that article. Would be kind of nice if it were indoors to help retain the heat. Check out what happened when I told my wife to start it up the other night. It's so red you can see stuff across the patio!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zKLwdkMmFGw/UsO7HHN1y5I/AAAAAAAAHBs/Ty2LhMjZeMk/w996-h560-no/20131231_235108.jpg
Very cool, sir, very cool! Can't wait to see it all finished, block walls and all. I'd be amazed if you ever have success keeping paint on that barrel though. Good luck with that.
Update for those wondering.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rJ32rxcAN34/UxO36X3AzfI/AAAAAAAAIaA/d_fw0YICQoA/w999-h562-no/20140302_155943_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--oLG0IrJEcA/UxO38DNJqTI/AAAAAAAAIaM/Q_sKZhyoU_o/w999-h562-no/20140302_155953_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TYz6ACJu-Ao/UxO39xXve7I/AAAAAAAAIaY/iU4B9KdDgnE/w999-h562-no/20140302_160002_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
I guess getting it red hot like the picture above, over and over, isn't good for the paint. My brother came over and we were burning the plywood you can see in the back ground. It would only take one little sheet at a time to get it red hot. We lit a cigar by holding it to the chimney at one point.
Pretty awesome! I wish I could make one that I would feel safe burning in the garage.
lllRorlll
05-20-2014, 14:46
I have 2 mobil 1
55gL barrels --for the free
just come get em, by end of week north pueblo
pm me
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