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brianakell
11-25-2013, 13:22
Running an older style external voltage regulator for my alternator. Since it switches on and off, the lights, dash and headlights have a kind of pulse to them. anyone know how to smooth this on/off out? My google-fu is failing me today
LariatBob
11-25-2013, 14:44
It's not like you need to filter out a pulse so you can't build a capacitive filter circuit. The voltage is actually going up and down, typically from 12v while not charging to 14v while charging.
How often is it switching?
brianakell
11-25-2013, 15:55
It's not like you need to filter out a pulse so you can't build a capacitive filter circuit. The voltage is actually going up and down, typically from 12v while not charging to 14v while charging.
How often is it switching?

Every second or so. Definately not cycling 12v/14v.
Wulf202
11-25-2013, 16:10
Is it a converted 6v system? Some 6v components can cause issues
ray1970
11-25-2013, 16:14
I'd leave it alone. People will probably think you are some sort of emergency vehicle and get out of your way. [Coffee]
ray1970
11-25-2013, 16:15
I'd leave it alone. People will probably think you are some sort of emergency vehicle and get out of your way. [Coffee]

Unless the flickering dash lights will cause some sort of epileptic seizure or something.
brianakell
11-25-2013, 16:47
Is it a converted 6v system? Some 6v components can cause issues

Nope, everything is 12v


Unless the flickering dash lights will cause some sort of epileptic seizure or something.

Concerned the cycling may eventually piss off ecm and other parts. Its also a bit annoying, and I could see it being very aggravating on a long trip at night. The headlights flickering is not enough to notice when in front of the truck, just when in, and dash lights an headlights are doing it. Especially hearing the engine sounding like very slight surging at idle. Take off connections for the regulator, and surging is gone.
Irving
11-25-2013, 16:59
A capacitor won't fix this?
00tec
11-25-2013, 19:26
A capacitor won't fix this?

Thats what i was thinking. One of the ones they use for sub amps. 1 farad or so.
Ah Pook
11-25-2013, 20:21
One of my old trucks does this. Converted from an external regulator to an internal (Delco 10si) type alternator. Mine had the tick before and after. The headlights were not effected but the dashlights would dim a little and the volt meter would "tick".

Is the power to the headlights running from the battery, through the dash, to the switch and then to the headlights? Installing a "bright light kit" for the headlights might fix their pulsing. This bypasses a lot of wiring and the lights can be powered directly from the battery.

Never figured out the cause and called it the truck's heartbeat.
DOC
11-25-2013, 20:28
I had this problem with my Mustang. Turns out the newer headlights I installed were drawing too many amps. And it was causing the breaker in the headlights to switch on and off. I installed a relay switch and powered it straight from the battery and the former switch turns on said relay instead. Problem solved. I hope this helps.
gnihcraes
11-25-2013, 22:51
One of my old trucks does this. Converted from an external regulator to an internal (Delco 10si) type alternator. Mine had the tick before and after. The headlights were not effected but the dashlights would dim a little and the volt meter would "tick".

Is the power to the headlights running from the battery, through the dash, to the switch and then to the headlights? Installing a "bright light kit" for the headlights might fix their pulsing. This bypasses a lot of wiring and the lights can be powered directly from the battery.

Never figured out the cause and called it the truck's heartbeat.

Conversion, if possible is the best. Had a similar setup on my old jeepster, replaced with 10si, no problems anymore.
BPTactical
11-26-2013, 08:35
When this used to happen on older trucks (70-83) vintage it was typically indicative of an alternator on the way out.
Electronic or mechanical regulator?
brianakell
11-26-2013, 09:07
When this used to happen on older trucks (70-83) vintage it was typically indicative of an alternator on the way out.
Electronic or mechanical regulator?

Mechanical.
Starting to look for an electronic one, see if that would make things smooth. Never had an alternator fail in this way, but Ive never run an externally regulated one either.
BPTactical
11-26-2013, 12:59
Mechanical.
Starting to look for an electronic one, see if that would make things smooth. Never had an alternator fail in this way, but Ive never run an externally regulated one either.

The mechanical ones were notorious for voltage fluctuations.
hghclsswhitetrsh
11-26-2013, 13:01
The mechanical ones were notorious for voltage fluctuations.

Isn't that why a "dummy light" is a good idea? I added one to my Suzuki samurai when I converted to a gm alt.
2XS
11-26-2013, 20:03
How about you tell us what kinda of vehicle this is ? Give us a little better idea if this a common issue for the given vehicle or the alternator or reg.
Ah Pook
11-26-2013, 20:48
How about you tell us what kinda of vehicle this is ? Give us a little better idea if this a common issue for the given vehicle or the alternator or reg.
What fun is that? Let's just keep guessing... [LOL]
brianakell
11-27-2013, 09:16
What fun is that? Let's just keep guessing... [LOL]

Ok, but its not going to help...

f350 superduty with a 24v cummins swapped in. Cummins in a dodge is externally regulated by the PCM, which is not used in swaps, since it can't be, hence the external regulator. [Coffee]
zteknik
11-27-2013, 20:17
Ok, but its not going to help...

f350 superduty with a 24v cummins swapped in. Cummins in a dodge is externally regulated by the PCM, which is not used in swaps, since it can't be, hence the external regulator. [Coffee]
Well there it is-every body knows that Dodge and Ford don't get along..It's like cats and dogs,always fighting!![LOL]
DOC
11-27-2013, 20:52
Get a different Alternator. Why can't the PCM be swapped? I would check the wiring for fried connections and then try a new regulator. It can be something simple as that.
brianakell
11-27-2013, 23:06
Get a different Alternator. Why can't the PCM be swapped? I would check the wiring for fried connections and then try a new regulator. It can be something simple as that.

Checked all the wiring, verified with ohm meter. But yes, looking at swapping to a different regulator, of different style.

PCM is not swappable without swapping in everything it wants to be happy. It was the ABS module, speed sensors, gauge cluster. Possibly even airbags. Looked at swapping it in, and its mad enough it wont allow the engine to start. Unplug PCM, fires right up, so that's how it was wired.