Truck help question

[Sparky]

Please bear with me I am not a mechanic. I have a 1976 F250 2wd. A part appears to have broken. It is automatic transmission and the part that sticks out from the steering column under the dash that connects to the transmission linkage? That part broke. Not sure if that is the correct term, but what is that called and can it be change myself?

[BPTactical]

Is it a bracket looking thing about 3 inches long and the linkage pops through a hole with a plastic bushing in it?

[RonMexico]

Please bear with me I am not a mechanic. I have a 1976 F250 2wd. A part appears to have broken. It is automatic transmission and the part that sticks out from the steering column under the dash that connects to the transmission linkage? That part broke. Not sure if that is the correct term, but what is that called and can it be change myself?
Just find a 1973-1979 at the junk yard. Try and take it off their truck first. It also make removal and installation easier on yours after you practice on theirs. Sorry if this sounds shady

[SideShow Bob]

The part that is on the column itself ? Or the rod (red)? Or the Lever on the transmission ?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/abamuqeq.jpg

[BPTactical]

Nice picture Bob.
See, Trunk Monkeys while irritable and smelly do serve a useful purpose....

If it is the arm on the column you have 2 choices:
Tear apart the column and have the arm welded back on.
Find another AT steering column.

I doubt highly there is a service/replacement available new.

[Sparky]

The part that is on the column itself ? Or the rod (red)? Or the Lever on the transmission ?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/abamuqeq.jpg


No that doesn't look like it. There is a plastic piece that comes out of the steering column under the dash. It looks like it is supposed to move a spring loaded switch that has an electrical connection. When you put it in gear the little plastic piece pushes on the spring loaded switch.

I was able to get it started by manually putting the tranny in park and then move the spring loaded switch and turn key to start. Then put it in reverse pull out of the parking spot then manually putting it in drive. Thankfully I had an extra person to hold the brake pedal while doing this.

[BPTactical]

Neutral safety switch. Will the truck start in Drive? (make sure to set the parking brake and have your foot on the brake before trying it)

[Sparky]

Neutral safety switch. Will the truck start in Drive? (make sure to set the parking brake and have your foot on the brake before trying it)

The deal on the column to put in drive just moves loosely.

[BPTactical]

You should be able to feel the detents in the transmission even if the neutral safety switch is removed. A lot of the slop your feeling is probably due to plastic bushings in the linkage being worn out or plain missing.
The switch can be had at just about any local auto parts store. Easy fix but it requires a smidge of know how. It needs to be adjusted once it is installed.
It has been forever ago since I did one and you have to take a small drill bit to hold the switch in correct alignment when the transmission and selector on the column are in neutral and then tighten the screws that hold it in place. This adjustment is critical as you don't want the truck to start in anything other than Park or Neutral.

[Sparky]

You should be able to feel the detents in the transmission even if the neutral safety switch is removed. A lot of the slop your feeling is probably due to plastic bushings in the linkage being worn out or plain missing.
The switch can be had at just about any local auto parts store. Easy fix but it requires a smidge of know how. It needs to be adjusted once it is installed.
It has been forever ago since I did one and you have to take a small drill bit to hold the switch in correct alignment when the transmission and selector on the column are in neutral and then tighten the screws that hold it in place. This adjustment is critical as you don't want the truck to start in anything other than Park or Neutral.

It is not the switch that is broke though. It is the piece that pushes the switch over. It sticks out of the steering column.

[BPTactical]

Damn Neal it has been so long since I have messed with an old Ford I can't place it.

[Great-Kazoo]

post a pic vs guess trouble shooting it. Nothing should be pushing the NSS anywhere. It is stationary on the column. If it moved you'd be starting in any gear.

[SideShow Bob]

You are probably referring to the part that the red arrow is pointing at.

You are screwed, that would be a dealer item, parts for a 1976 ? Good luck.....
And a junk yard part may not be any better than yours........

Sorry,you may have to convert to a floor shift modification.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/tunumeqy.jpg


Sent from my ass using re-fried beans.

[SideShow Bob]

Damn Neal it has been so long since I have messed with an old Ford I can't place it.

Look out in your driveway and try saying that again.............[LOL]

[BPTactical]

Look out in your driveway and try saying that again.............[LOL]

Edit: I am a dumb ass. I was thinking Sparkys truck is a 78, I stand corrected it is a 76.

You have my apologies Bob.

[SideShow Bob]

Fords are Fords who cares, the drawing/part should be similar. Still 1978 is stretching it for parts unless there is a rural dealer out in the flatlands that has one under several inches of dust in the back room. And that age for a plastic part from a junk yard would be so brittle it would break trying to remove it.

Edit: try reading the original post again, Sparky says "1976" not 1978.........

[BPTactical]

Fords are Fords who cares, the drawing/part should be similar. Still 1978 is stretching it for parts unless there is a rural dealer out in the flatlands that has one under several inches of dust in the back room. And that age for a plastic part from a junk yard would be so brittle it would break trying to remove it.

Ford changed to a selector shaft mounted NSS in 77.
Makes me wonder if somebody tossed in an earlier column.

[Sparky]

You are probably referring to the part that the red arrow is pointing at.

You are screwed, that would be a dealer item, parts for a 1976 ? Good luck.....
And a junk yard part may not be any better than yours........

Sorry,you may have to convert to a floor shift modification.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/tunumeqy.jpg


Sent from my ass using re-fried beans.

Yeah that looks like it.

[Sparky]

May just have to throw the beast up on craigslist as is.

[BPTactical]

Neal, the part # you are looking for is: D0TZ7B097B - Selector lever.
It is now an obsolete part meaning it is no longer produced. I would check with older Ford dealers such as SillTer Har, Courtesy, Omeara or what used to be Mountain States, they may have one in stock.
About $17.00 if you can find it, it just snaps into the column shift tube and actuates the NSS.
Otherwise it is junkyard scrounging.

[Great-Kazoo]

try these sites. they might have it or suggestions who to contact

http://www.ebay.com/usr/pitbullpartsllc


http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/about-us.php


http://www.1aauto.com/1A/NeutralSafetySwitch/Ford/F150-Truck

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1120655,pgname,Electrical-Switch%2B%2526%252338%253B%2BRelay

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com

D5TZ-7228-A (replaced C5TZ-7228-A & B - C9TZ-7228-A) .. A/T Shift Collar Kit-includes D3TZ-7A110-A plastic shift dial pointer / AVAILABLE from Ford.

Applications: 1965/77 F100/350 & 1973/77 Bronco (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1262845-help-please-a-t-shift-collar-broke.html#) / 1965/72: Original collar has the shift dial pointer made as part of it. 1973/77: Collar has a slot in it for plastic pointer to slip into.

MSRP: $65.98 // FTE sponsor horizonpartsguy.com (http://horizonpartsguy.com) price: $47.51 / Horizon Ford Truck Center ~ Seattle (Tukwila) WA

[BPTactical]

Neal- Google D0TZ7B097B, there are quite a few available although none locally.

[Sparky]

I will order the part.

[Sparky]

Next question is how to get old part out

[BPTactical]

You have 2 choices:
Become a contortionist and crawl under the dash.
Drop the column.

I would take the latter.
Remove the trim piece/cover under the column where it enters the dash. Make sure you don't have any wiring running under the column that will keep it from dropping down. Loosen the bolts on the flange where the column goes through the floorboards. Where you removed the trim piece/cover there will be either 2 or 4 bolts that hold the column to the dash. Remove those bolts but support the column so it doesn't drop and smack you in the grill (ask me how I know).
That should give you enough clearance to replace the actuator that is on top of the column. It will either snap into place or the bottom bearing support may have to be removed from the column and the actuator slid into place.
Might as well replace the neutral safety switch while you are in there.

If you need help bring it up here and I will give you a hand Neal.

[Sparky]

Here is something that is puzzling me. If I push the nss to start the truck shouldn't I be able to put it in gear and drive?

[BPTactical]

Here is something that is puzzling me. If I push the nss to start the truck shouldn't I be able to put it in gear and drive?

Yes

[Sparky]

Yes

I think I has bigger issues than I thought. This is above me.

[SideShow Bob]

I think I has bigger issues than I thought. This is above me.

Anything over 4 1/2 ft. is above you........... [LOL]

Sorry, I couldn't let that opportunity slide past........

[Great-Kazoo]

You have 2 choices:
Become a contortionist and crawl under the dash.
Drop the column.

I would take the latter.
Remove the trim piece/cover under the column where it enters the dash. Make sure you don't have any wiring running under the column that will keep it from dropping down. Loosen the bolts on the flange where the column goes through the floorboards. Where you removed the trim piece/cover there will be either 2 or 4 bolts that hold the column to the dash. Remove those bolts but support the column so it doesn't drop and smack you in the grill (ask me how I know).
That should give you enough clearance to replace the actuator that is on top of the column. It will either snap into place or the bottom bearing support may have to be removed from the column and the actuator slid into place.
Might as well replace the neutral safety switch while you are in there.

If you need help bring it up here and I will give you a hand Neal.

This. if you don't drop the column 20 minutes later you will wish you did.

[Sparky]

Anything over 4 1/2 ft. is above you........... [LOL]

Sorry, I couldn't let that opportunity slide past........

5 foot dude. Give don't take away what little I have.

[blackford76]

Does LMC have this part? They have a lot of hard to find stuff for old Fords. If not, we should be able to retro fit a newer switch to your truck, the switch that mounts down where the linkage goes into the trans itself should be easy to wire in.

[Sparky]

Does LMC have this part? They have a lot of hard to find stuff for old Fords. If not, we should be able to retro fit a newer switch to your truck, the switch that mounts down where the linkage goes into the trans itself should be easy to wire in.

The switch still works. I can move it and start it. When I get paid I would be willing to pay you for your time if you are willing to look at it.

[SideShow Bob]

Still no luck finding the part , or did X-mas get in the way of fixing your truck ?

[Sparky]

Still no luck finding the part , or did X-mas get in the way of fixing your truck ?

Yes xmas got in the way. I need to make sure I know what the problem is first.

[blackford76]

We'll have to figure out a time we can look it over, I'd be happy to help you if I can.

[Sparky]

We'll have to figure out a time we can look it over, I'd be happy to help you if I can.

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