Sorting Brass By Headstamp...Necessary??

[crays]

I searched using several different parameters, and found some information, but if I could get some fresh input specifically on topic, that would be great.

So, as the title states/asks, what are your opinions on the level of brass sorting necessary, in several different scenarios?

1. Revolver brass, I sort brass v. nickel, standard v. +P, and by brand typically only if boredom strikes. [at this time, only .38/.357M]

2. Pistol brass, same as revolver brass, typically. [at this time, primarily .45acp and 9mm]

Main question for handgun: Do I need to sort by brand for general range/plinking? Do I even need to sort at all? If so, can I batch Winchester, W-W, Western, WRA, WW Super, etc. together?

3. Rifle brass -- What level do I need to sort at for all practical purposes?
For the most part, the rounds will be range rounds. I have loaded up 100 or so testers, trying to find my desired recipe, but how diligently do I need to sort my brass once I start loading in quantity?
Logic would lead me to sort 5.56 (mil) v. .223 (comm), but do I really need to sort by brand, and then further by headstamp?
Are there specific brands and/or HS's I need to isolate?
Thanks in advance for any and all input forthcoming, as ALL information will be appreciated. [Coffee]

[spqrzilla]

Sorting by headstamp is a proxy for sorting brass by case capacity. Its too much work to weigh each case (as thicker walled brass is usually heavier) so we sort by headstamp. Which ignores the issue of lots of course.

I never sort pistol brass by headstamp except to eliminate brands of cases I hate. E.g., GECO. I do sort rifle brass out for those calibers that I've multiple headstamps of brass.

[BuffCyclist]

I used to sort all pistol brass, then realized how long it took, so now I just quickly inspect the brass and load it up. I cull any cases that are crushed or have a damaged rim.

I do the same with rifle (only load 223), but that brass is all just plinking brass, so I don't care what the headstamp is.

The one thing I do with both pistol/rifle brass is have 3 containers. One has once fired brass, another has dirty range brass (mine plus extra pickups), and the third has twice fired. I load up all of the once fireds, shoot them and dump them into the twice fired container. Then, relabel the containers and continue loading. That way I can keep track of how many times my brass has been loaded.

Now that I'm trying to get into the long range game and will be buying a 308 rifle within the next few months, I plan to be very OCD with that brass. It will all get trimmed to one size, sorted by headstamp and loaded/shot in groups and then kept very detailed notes about it.

[crays]

Thanks for the input spqr & BC.

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[Great-Kazoo]

I used to sort all pistol brass, then realized how long it took, so now I just quickly inspect the brass and load it up. I cull any cases that are crushed or have a damaged rim.

I do the same with rifle (only load 223), but that brass is all just plinking brass, so I don't care what the headstamp is.

The one thing I do with both pistol/rifle brass is have 3 containers. One has once fired brass, another has dirty range brass (mine plus extra pickups), and the third has twice fired. I load up all of the once fireds, shoot them and dump them into the twice fired container. Then, relabel the containers and continue loading. That way I can keep track of how many times my brass has been loaded.

Now that I'm trying to get into the long range game and will be buying a 308 rifle within the next few months, I plan to be very OCD with that brass. It will all get trimmed to one size, sorted by headstamp and loaded/shot in groups and then kept very detailed notes about it.

Like wise. Plus i have separate bins for Semi and Bolt action 223. I do keep 223 brass by head stamp. This way when resizing and trimming i keep them uniform, or as close as possible.

[crays]

Thanks Jim.

It will likely be spring before I start on loads for the bolt gun, and that brass will likely be separate/sorted from the get-go.

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[rondog]

Not necessary in my world. But some folks are obsessive about it.

[Great-Kazoo]

Not necessary in my world. But some folks are obsessive about it.

I know folks who separate by head stamp AND (LC) DATE. [facepalm]
The best ones for anal are the bench rest folks. CCI 400's weigh 2.4grs each win SPP weigh 2.45 and so on.

[cstone]

I can't read headstamps without good lighting and magnification. All the sorting in the world will not make me a better shooter, so I just reload it and practice getting on target. Smooth is fast.

[sellersm]

I only "sort" handgun brass if it's not been previously fired by me and it may be crimped primer (WCC, GFL, etc.). Once I swage it and fire it, I don't look at it again, just goes with all the others.

For rifle, like Jim, I sort brass by bolt vs. semi-auto. Each type gets sized differently (neck vs. FL sized), so I separate them.

Other than that, I don't bother sorting.

[spleify]

Pistol, never. I cant even imagine the brain damage of trying to sort 10,000 different cases out and then let alone trying to figure out if my brass is once fired twice fired....and so on. When the case splits I know its done and I trow that case out. If a case is mouth is to damaged or there is a cut or tear or split in it I toss it but other than a quick examination while loading I dont pay much attention to head stamp, or if they are brass or nickle or standard or +P. And while we are at it, NO I do not clean my primer pockets on my pistol brass either.

Rifle, depends. For anything precision, YES. I will go through and separate things and clean trim and sort all in similar piles. .223 stuff definitely not. I think of "plinking" .223 being almost the same as pistol. I load on a progressive no I dont clean those primer pockets either.

Crays, if you ever want some tips hit me up and I would be happy to work with you a little on your reloading stuff

[crays]

rondog, cstone, sellersm & spleify ,
Thanks for contributing.

So I guess I am potentially over doing it on the handgun brass, but the consensus seems to be that at least some sorting is beneficial/prudent for rifle.
I do appreciate all the input thus far, and it has helped me to start refining my process.
Spleify, I will likely take you up on your offer as situations warrant, since you're not that far from me. Jim has always been very helpful, but I don't get up his way often enough.

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[Great-Kazoo]

rondog, cstone, sellersm & spleify ,
Thanks for contributing.

So I guess I am potentially over doing it on the handgun brass, but the consensus seems to be that at least some sorting is beneficial/prudent for rifle.
I do appreciate all the input thus far, and it has helped me to start refining my process.
Spleify, I will likely take you up on your offer as situations warrant, since you're not that far from me. Jim has always been very helpful, but I don't get up his way often enough.

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You can stop by. i sold that mc trailer, so your wallet is safe, for now;)

[crays]

Thanks kazoo. I have been meaning to get by, but you know how it goes.

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[spleify]

Spleify, I will likely take you up on your offer as situations warrant, since you're not that far from me.



Any time brother just let me know when

[Hoser]

For 99% of pistol sorting by headstamp is a waste of time.

For rifle I will do it for hunting and long range rifle ammo only. Anything inside 500-600 yards is fine with mixed headstamp brass.

[crays]

Thanks for adding, Hoser.

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[asmo]

I have been hesitating on contributing to this post because I am prepping one of my own along these lines (just data).. For precision, even sorting by headstamp isn't "enough" - there is pretty good differences in brass weight by the same headstamp across years - or at least that is what I have found.

[crays]

Thanks asmo.
I follow what your saying, and will likely find the need for that level of diligence somewhere down the road. Saw your load work-up thread


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[Zombie Steve]

Pistol brass - I don't sort...

Revolver brass - for some reason, I do. Likely because I'm not shooting thousands and thousands a year and it just isn't that hard.

Rifle brass - I sort every time. Kinda like getting them shiny. If I'm going to go to all the trouble, I might as well do it right.


One thing that hasn't been mentioned - during load development, it's prudent to test using the heaviest brass. There is the potential for overpressure if you are right at max then switch to something with less case volume. If you've already tested with the thickest brass, switching to something with more volume is no problem. You might never run into this, but I got surprised once by some TZZ brass.

[crays]

Steve, I'm with you on revolver brass. Low qty = low stress.

On the rifle, I haven't really been flirting with max loads much yet, but good information to keep in mind.

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[spqrzilla]

What is more important to spend time upon, with rifle brass, is keeping track of the overall length of the case and trimming as necessary.

[crays]

Noted.

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[trlcavscout]

I agree, precision rifle yes, most others no. Even 308 that I used just for 300yd target shooting had no difference with mixed brass. A few years ago I did an experiment in 40 S&W with a Glock 22 and 27 where I loaded 1k normal with mixed brass, no pocket cleaning, light tumbling etc and 1k where I was totally anal I even trimmed them all the same. Brass and bullets were weighed and seperated into batches. I used this experiment at the GSSF shoot and on paper, basically I wasted a lot of time. But I can honestly say I did the science and found no difference in accuracy, velocity, or shoot ability. I am sure a precision dot shooter would see a difference but not for normal use.

I sort my brass into 5 category's: New, once fired, twice fired, 3X, and lost brass match brass. After the third firing they go in a bucket and get loaded for GSSF or anywhere I won't get them back.

[crays]

:thumbup:

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