Ran across a video, and maybe I'm ignorant...

[<MADDOG>]

I ran across this vid today looking for opinions on a powder/bullet combo, and 3 things struck me... I've been loading for over a decade, but mostly self-taught through the loading manuals, and I have not seen/nor done a couple of things in this video...

A. Dryer sheets in the tumbler to keep down dust (I frankly give a damn, as it's in my garage; and I have not remembered a time where "lead" residue escapes the tumbler. It seems to me if you have lead in your brass, you did something wrong [LOL]).

B. Synthetic motor oil for re-sizing? (Does anyone else do this?. I re-size before tumbling, and I use RCBS case slick)

C. Primer pocket swaging (I use the RCBS Trim Mate, and clean, ream, remove crimp, etc)

The dryer sheet, I don't give one $hit about...If there is indeed lead in my brass; I have inhaled enough CS, concrete, sawdust, coal dust, etc, that it doesn't matter. But I might be wrong for those around me...

The one that intrigues me the most is the primer pocket swaging. Is there an advantage to utilizing a swaging tool as described in the video as opposed to the process I use now? I am somewhat of an accuracy nut, but the reamer seems to do the job IMO.

Opinions?


Typical "youtube for idiots" vid, but it hits the points I am describing:


THOL_S7Hngs

[cstone]

Dryer sheet in the tumbler... lots of people do that, but then there are lots of people wet tumbling with stainless steel pins. To each their own.

I make my own sizing lube, one part lanolin to 10 parts 91% rubbing alcohol. Cheap and effective.

If you have brass that had crimped primers, like milsurp 5.56 or NATO 9mm, as well as some types of commercial ammunition, it is necessary to take the crimp out before attempting to seat new primers. Two methods commonly used are reaming, like using a counter sink bit or a debur tool, which removes brass, or swaging the pocket, which pushes the brass back into spec to receive a new primer. I use a Dillon Super Swage or prep the brass on a Dillon 1050 which swages as a part of the process. Whatever works for you.

YouTube videos are a great source of information, but I treat it like directions from a GPS...mostly useful but the choices are still mine.

[<MADDOG>]

Thanks cstone!

Dryer sheets; again never heard of.

With ya 100% on the primer pockets. I just never swaged as this vid illustrates. I've read many an (old) book, and nothing was mentioned of that process.

And I again agree with the youtube mess; but I don't wish to discount something I haven't done before.

[Jamnanc]

Swaging is easier than using a reamer, but startup cost is expensive. The oil sounds like a mess to me.

[Great-Kazoo]

I use the dryer sheets while tumbling to minimize the dust. Not so much for the airborne particulates , as it snags those broken down media bits. I usually open the tumbler and separate media under an exhaust unit.
The dryer sheet in powder measures work. Motor oil, looks like a lot of clean up time.

[Danimal]

Honestly all three of those recommendations are good ones. I found similar videos through tons of research and have noticed that there are benefits to the dryer sheets, motor oil and swaging that go beyond a simple cost and time savings. The dryer sheets keep the dust down and your brass smells like a mountain breeze. [Flower]The motor oil honestly does a better job than everything else that I have tried for preventing stuck cases. And applying it is super easy. just add some to a bag of brass and shake it around. This means that I have to clean my brass a second time, but i just give it a quick dusting to get the big crap off before I re-size.

Also since I have started swaging military crimped cases I have not had a single loose primer pocket. I used to get them from time to time after trimming. That might be because of my cheap Lyman pocket crimp remover, or maybe I would torque my wrist weird when using it. It would only happen on hot 5.56 rounds, but since I got the super swage, not a single issue. Just my 2c.

[spqrzilla]

Just don't use Hornady One Shot spray lube for resizing .... just don't.

I used motor oil once, but I always seemed to get too much on the cases and got hydraulic dents.

[Great-Kazoo]

Just don't use Hornady One Shot spray lube for resizing .... just don't.

I used motor oil once, but I always seemed to get too much on the cases and got hydraulic dents.

One could apply it from a spray bottle. I like the dillon / home made lanolin mix