View Full Version : Let's talk hardwood flooring. Who's got them or has had them? Pros? Cons?
I've done them before when I was in real estate investment and did various surfaces from pergo to real hardwood (depending on budget/cost/etc) but I never actually lived on them to know what it's like. As weird as this sounds every house, for better or for worse, has been carpeted aside from your usual wet areas. We built this house about 7-8yrs ago and our carpet is starting to show it's wear in some high-traffic areas. In addition, if anyone has been following the dog saga of the new (a year ago) rescue DONE cleaning carpets of shit, piss, vomit, other random bodily excretions and that's the primary reason for considering ripping all this carpet out and doing some sort of hard surface for ease of maintenance. That doesn't necessarily mean it must be hardwood either and I'm also open to suggestions for materials as well as tips and advice on anything. Are you a carpet person who did hard wood once and now never will again? Post up your opinion. What about bamboo? I know that was all the rage years back but I'm not sure if it's gotten less expensive, better, proven to be trash, worse for some reason so chime in of you have advice regarding bamboo as well.
Let's have it. From professional installers to homeowners to contractors & sellers of product.... let's have us a flooring discussion! Weeee! [Flower]
hghclsswhitetrsh
03-24-2014, 13:44
If it were me I would do the tile that looks like hardwood. I have two big dogs and they scratch and the older slips on the hard woods we have. Plus you don't have to use high dollar cleaning supplies or have it resurfaced. More expensive to install though.
We had pergo floors in one of our homes and I wouldn't do that again if I could help it, it has an overall 'cheap' feel/sound/appearance. It was already installed when we bought the place so what was done was done, but I'd never willingly go that route.
We have real hardwood floors on the first floor in our home now and they seem to have held up well in spite of how long they've been in place.
I'm seriously considering going with a whitewashed pine floor in a room upstairs but haven't gotten too far down that road just yet.
sellersm
03-24-2014, 13:46
My opinion is that if you've got kids and/or pets, then they're a necessity! We love ours. They can be a bit colder (obviously) than carpet, but all the other benefits really offset that little nit-pick.
Easier to clean, maintain, look better (imho), seem to increase resale/value (especially if real hardwood, that's what we have)...
drift_g35
03-24-2014, 13:57
I second the hardwood looking tile. I just did real hand scraped hardwood and we cant go more than 15 min without it showing dog prints. Its a very dark color, but i think the tile would have alleviated that issue. Other than the hassle of keeping them clean it looks 1000000x better than the old parquet checkering hardwood that was in there from the 80's.
What about noise? I'm worried a bit about echo & other harmonic type issues. Any negatives there from those that have hardwood or similar?
ruthabagah
03-24-2014, 14:01
My opinion is that if you've got kids and/or pets, then they're a necessity! We love ours. They can be a bit colder (obviously) than carpet, but all the other benefits really offset that little nit-pick.
Easier to clean, maintain, look better (imho), seem to increase resale/value (especially if real hardwood, that's what we have)...
You nailed it! all the benefits of HW floor. I would add one more: it's better for allergies to have HW floor than carpet. I had mine coated with a commercail grade finish 10 years ago, and even with 2 kids and a dog they still look new.
ruthabagah
03-24-2014, 14:07
What about noise? I'm worried a bit about echo & other harmonic type issues. Any negatives there from those that have hardwood or similar?
Noise, echo will definitively be something to consider, but a good "noise trap" (like a rug in a middle of a room or a large fabric sofa) will mitigate this. I have HW floor in my living room/home theater room, and a large cheap rug did the trick to avoid the echo, and the main speakers have a "natural" effect.
Noise, echo will definitively be something to consider, but a good "noise trap" (like a rug in a middle of a room or a large fabric sofa) will mitigate this. I have HW floor in my living room/home theater room, and a large cheap rug did the trick to avoid the echo, and the main speakers have a "natural" effect.
That actually addresses my follow up question too then about theaters & A/V affects of hard surfaces v carpeting. We do have some larger area rugs/carpets too so maybe a couple more & some runners here and there will fit the bill.
muddywings
03-24-2014, 14:11
if by pergo you you mean laminate (aka snap together) flooring, I would skip it as an option.
I have installed both hardwood and laminate as a DIYer. When it comes to home improvement, either save up and do it right or don't bother.
As for the benefits-location of the room in relationship with the rest of the house plays a factor in it too. I plan on pulling out the carpet in my 'front' room due to the very high traffic pattern but the living room will still have carpet for that lounging need.
Any negatives there from those that have hardwood or similar?
Be careful of wearing some of the newer outdoor/approach shoes that have softer black rubber soles: they'll streak a hardwood floor and I've yet to find a way to get it off that doesn't take the finish off the floor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/hatidua/rubber_zps20d6e78a.jpg
ruthabagah
03-24-2014, 14:14
That actually addresses my follow up question too then about theaters & A/V affects of hard surfaces v carpeting. We do have some larger area rugs/carpets too so maybe a couple more & some runners here and there will fit the bill.
Yes. sound trap, they really work. sometimes just moving a sofa a couple of inches in one direction will totally change the acoustic of a room with HW floor. When I was much younger I used to deliver an setup pianos in Paris: No carpet (and often no elevator...), we had to move the damn thing and the furniture around all day to find the right mix....
We did the pergo wood in our kitchen. It is just alright. Not as nice as the bamboo in my parents home. We have tile in the back portion of the house, and plan on doing the same fake wood floor in the living room as well. I plan on keeping my house as a rental though, and I won't be able to charge more rent for real wood.
I agree with the large center rug idea.
Great-Kazoo
03-24-2014, 14:52
Be careful of wearing some of the newer outdoor/approach shoes that have softer black rubber soles: they'll streak a hardwood floor and I've yet to find a way to get it off that doesn't take the finish off the floor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/hatidua/rubber_zps20d6e78a.jpg
Tennis or handball (like a pensie pinkie) Also you can use a clear rubber soled shoe.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608048643416590796&pid=15.1
We have laminated, NOT PERGO (they are the low end) use throw rugs and carpet sections for sound reduction. Been looking at the cork style flooring also.
We have cpt in the house. I hate it. With three dogs, in the mountains, keeping it clean is a constant chore.
I'm looking at bamboo flooring. Throw some rugs (with no skids) in strategic places and call it good.
I like real hardwood but don't think it will hold up well to dog claws and winter muck. Most of the "fake" wood floorings look fake.
Have you considered cork?
Hardwood is a great flooring choice IMO. If you have high traffic areas, you can plan on having it sanded and refinished every ten years or so, but otherwise it wears well and is easy to keep clean.
Bathrooms and mud room all had carpeting when we bought this house and I've since ripped it all out and replaced with tile. I'm not fast, and it takes it's toll on my knees, but in wet areas, tile is a great option.
In the basement we ripped out the carpet and put in laminate. I have plenty left over in the event of water or any other damage. It is easy to replace.
With hardwood, you can always go with area rugs or wall to wall over top. We once had a house with the most hideous 30 year old carpets. Underneath was some of the most beautiful hardwood and it didn't need any refinishing at all. Over the long haul, I believe hardwood is the best flooring option.
I plan to do tile in the floors of kitchens & bathrooms but that's a project for another day. I always planned to upgrade vinyl floors, counters as well as the tile the builders installed so that's going to happen too but may wait until next year or the year after since it looks good and has no issues yet. Right now I want to focus on this carpet situation as it's a pressing need. I'm looking at bamboo options right now and I've seen some options that look pretty cool. I still don't understand why it hasn't come down more in price since the materials to create it are so much more readily available. I had hoped that it would maybe come down more in cost by now but it seems it's still going to run around the cost of hard wood +/- depending on quality, shade, etc.
Tennis or handball (like a pensie pinkie) Also you can use a clear rubber soled shoe.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608048643416590796&pid=15.1
-must go find tennis ball, thank you!
newracer
03-24-2014, 15:06
I had Bellawood hickory in my last house and it held up well to two sons and a GSD. New house doesn't have any yet but it will. I cannot stand the laminate ones. I prefer tile for anywhere that will see any amount of moisture, kitchen, baths, entries, etc.
ANADRILL
03-24-2014, 15:31
I did a distressed hardwood, when it gets scratched I just use a mahogany marker to cover it up. the only tile I have in the house is in the hall, kitchen and baths
sellersm
03-24-2014, 15:33
Our hardwood has held up well to 4 dogs (2 of which are border collies), and lots of mud, dirt, etc. that they bring in.
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I did pergo at my old house since it was my first home and wasn't worth putting in anything nicer. It's held up great to roommates, pets, and now tenants. Very worry free and easy to install. But, how "real" it looks depends on the type you get and how good you install it. Making sure to not line up seems, no gaps, etc.
In our house now, we have the pergo too. The prior owners put it in and I don't mind it. Again, it's very worry free and I like headache free stuff. If I ever had to replace it, I'd find another hard surface of some kind to put in. I like carpet in the bedrooms but prefer non porous flooring everywhere else. This house would allow me to upgrade the flooring a bit and get my money back out of it.
Dark floors=paw prints, foot prints, dirt, etc showing.
Lighter floors=hides a lot more.
I did pergo at my old house since it was my first home and wasn't worth putting in anything nicer. It's held up great to roommates, pets, and now tenants. Very worry free and easy to install. But, how "real" it looks depends on the type you get and how good you install it. Making sure to not line up seems, no gaps, etc.
In our house now, we have the pergo too. The prior owners put it in and I don't mind it. Again, it's very worry free and I like headache free stuff. If I ever had to replace it, I'd find another hard surface of some kind to put in. I like carpet in the bedrooms but prefer non porous flooring everywhere else. This house would allow me to upgrade the flooring a bit and get my money back out of it.
Dark floors=paw prints, foot prints, dirt, etc showing.
Lighter floors=hides a lot more.
A buddy of mine (member here) did hardwood floors in his new place and chose a really dark wood. It looks great but that was his advice too as it shows all dirt, dust & scratches a lot more. I think we'll stay with a lighter color for this reason as we tend to be a bit lazy as it comes to housekeeping.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 17:25
I did strand bamboo in my current house. We did it ourselves. We are currently are under contract on a different house and have ours listed. We will be doing hardwood in the new house as time goes on.
buffalobo
03-24-2014, 17:27
With the bamboo, make sure the material gets plenty of time to acclimate before installing. I did two floor jobs for friends and relatives using Lumber Liquidators Morningstar brand and it shrank. Even though manufacturers instructions were followed to the letter. I also think it is wearing poorly. Neither party is award winning house keepers but it should look better. Both parties are still happy with it but I think it looks like shit and will not do bamboo again.
Lobbed from my electronic ball and chain.
We have what looks like light maple in the dining room. Everywhere else is the cheapest builder's grade carpet around. We want to upgrade to wood floors.
We have cats. The nightly mad scramble does leave small mark, but they're easily dealt with.
Light colored wood looks more home-like, IMHO.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 17:40
With the bamboo, make sure the material gets plenty of time to acclimate before installing. I did two floor jobs for friends and relatives using Lumber Liquidators Morningstar brand and it shrank. Even though manufacturers instructions were followed to the letter. I also think it is wearing poorly. Neither party is award winning house keepers but it should look better. Both parties are still happy with it but I think it looks like shit and will not do bamboo again.
Lobbed from my electronic ball and chain.
Agreed. I opens all our boxes and let air dry for about 2 weeks before installation.
As far as wear, I've had one room installed for 4 yrs. did my boys room before he was born. Really no wear in opinion in 4 yrs.
nogaroheli
03-24-2014, 17:56
We have engineered bamboo (with some type of "hard coating on it) on our main level, I installed it in 2007. It still looks good but our two 70 pound labs have scratched it pretty badly. We are considering something pre-finished we can install ourselves that will hold up to big dogs- not sure what that would be yet.
I did strand bamboo in my current house. We did it ourselves. We are currently are under contract on a different house and have ours listed. We will be doing hardwood in the new house as time goes on.
So you wouldn't do bamboo again?
42641
42643
Engineered bamboo new vs. now, about 8 years of a 130lbs lab
42641
42643
Engineered bamboo new vs. now, about 8 years of a 130lbs lab
Ewe, that didn't seem to hold up too well.
nogaroheli
03-24-2014, 18:50
42641
42643
Engineered bamboo new vs. now, about 8 years of a 130lbs lab
Wow! Mine's not that bad but doesn't look like the new stuff anymore either.
nogaroheli
03-24-2014, 18:52
What would be a large dog resistant hardwood?
hghclsswhitetrsh
03-24-2014, 18:53
What would be a large dog resistant hardwood?
Hedge. But I don't think they make floors outta that.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 18:59
So you wouldn't do bamboo again?
I would do it again.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 19:01
We have engineered bamboo (with some type of "hard coating on it) on our main level, I installed it in 2007. It still looks good but our two 70 pound labs have scratched it pretty badly. We are considering something pre-finished we can install ourselves that will hold up to big dogs- not sure what that would be yet.
I also have 120lb Saint and did have 130lb Greater Swiss Mountain dog (he died 2.5yrs ago). Bamboo is in great shape.
I really like the vinyl plank. The engineered wood products are junk, the only reason I installed them is that I got them for $0.33/sf.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 19:28
Hedge. But I don't think they make floors outta that.
Speaking to this....
No hard wood in front of doors the dogs frequent.
Or eating areas.
Hard wood in bedrooms, kitchen, and family rooms. Tile everywhere else.
We used Traffic Master vinyl wood flooring. I have pictures but it's only been a year so it pretty much looks the same. If you do tile, get a commercial scrub brush on a solid wood broom handle (the thicker the better) and it will make cleaning a breeze. Having cleaned tile floors hundreds of times in restaurant kitchens, a stiff brush will make it a snap in a residential home.
I would do it again.
I wasn't sure what you were saying when you said you'd do hardwood. I guess you were lumping them all in the same category as in hardwood v carpet but I wasn't sure if you meant you did bamboo this time but in the next place you wouldn't and would opt for hardwood instead. Just clarifying.
Speaking to this....
No hard wood in front of doors the dogs frequent.
Or eating areas.
Hard wood in bedrooms, kitchen, and family rooms. Tile everywhere else.
You did hardwood in the kitchen?
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 21:15
Sure did.
Sure did.
Why not tile? I always did tile for kitchen & bathrooms (plus any laundry or mud rooms) and then hardwood on the rest of the surfaces. Seems that that's the recommended setup anyway.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 22:40
Why not tile? I always did tile for kitchen & bathrooms (plus any laundry or mud rooms) and then hardwood on the rest of the surfaces. Seems that that's the recommended setup anyway.
Why tile?
Wood floors look way better.
I have tile in the mud room and bathrooms. Better for moisture.
Why tile?
Wood floors look way better.
I have tile in the mud room and bathrooms. Better for moisture.
You answered your own question in the same post. You don't get moisture on the floors in the kitchen? Seems just as prone to liquid as bathrooms.
Tinelement
03-24-2014, 23:12
You shower in your kitchen? Walk in from the snow with wet boots in the kitchen?
Our kitchen is a place that is clean. We prepare food there. If the kids want a glass of water they can sit at the table in the dinning room which is tile, or have it in a spill proof sippy cup. It's not an area that is exposed to 3 hot humid showers a day. Yes things get spilled, but I clean it up right away. They are work, but worth it in my opinion. Properly taken care of they last way longer than carpet.
You said it wasn't the norm. I just bought a house built in '92 with original hardwood floors. My in laws have had their house since '72, original hardwood floors.
I originally answered your thread by saying I have hard wood floors and love them. I will do them again.
My parents-in-law (not sure that is an actual term...) did bamboo floors about eight years ago, entire (large) home, cost a fortune. In hindsight, I don't think they would have chosen bamboo again for a host of reasons.
It looked great for the first month though...
My parents did bamboo floors several years ago (5+) and their floor still looks good from what I remember.
buffalobo
03-25-2014, 00:00
You shower in your kitchen? Walk in from the snow with wet boots in the kitchen?
Our kitchen is a place that is clean. We prepare food there. If the kids want a glass of water they can sit at the table in the dinning room which is tile, or have it in a spill proof sippy cup. It's not an area that is exposed to 3 hot humid showers a day. Yes things get spilled, but I clean it up right away. They are work, but worth it in my opinion. Properly taken care of they last way longer than carpet.
You said it wasn't the norm. I just bought a house built in '92 with original hardwood floors. My in laws have had their house since '72, original hardwood floors.
I originally answered your thread by saying I have hard wood floors and love them. I will do them again.
+1.
I am in 25-30 new home kitchens or newly renovated Kitchens per month. The large majority of them are wood floors. Tile comes in second and vinyl(all types) third.
Lobbed from my electronic ball and chain.
Moisture content, noise and warmth, IMO, are the 3 top concerns with wood flooring. Therfore, I would not put it in bedrooms, bathrooms, laundrys or basements (engineered in basements if you must). Surface moisture, if wiped up relatively quick, shouldn't be an issue. Air moisture from swamp coolers or unfinished basements will cause expansion and contraction opening up cracks constantly. Lots of pros to hardwood over carpet but there are a few cons which include 230lbs of excitable dogs. Tinnelment is probably correct though. Don't put it where dogs access the back yard.
HoneyBadger
03-25-2014, 08:57
I have a wood floor, but the boards are a composite with solid wood on top, and layers underneath that kind of look like OSB or fiberboard. The floor is not as tough as hardwood. My dog's nails (which we keep trimmed) have scratched and gouged the floor. If we were going to do it over, we would get real hardwood.
newracer
03-25-2014, 09:03
The only issue I have seen with wood in kitchens is if there is a leak and it is not fixed promptly. I know of people that have had leaks from ice maker lines and dishwashers that caused a lot of damage.
The only issue I have seen with wood in kitchens is if there is a leak and it is not fixed promptly. I know of people that have had leaks from ice maker lines and dishwashers that caused a lot of damage.
This is why I would be (and have done) doing tile in the kitchen. In most of the homes I've been in the wood stops at the kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room & mud rooms and I think it's a good idea to avoid potential liquid damage. I'm sure the odds are low but they're certainly quite a bit higher than living rooms and hallways. Plus I prefer the look of tile in the kitchen to match up with the counter tops & such. We'e got cherry cabinets so a lighter color wood in the kitchen might not look as good either.
Thanks for all the info fellas. Keep it coming!
Firehaus
03-25-2014, 10:30
Light wood and dark cabinets look okay in my studio. The wood floors are reclaimed bowling lanes from "celebrity" when it was demoed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/26/ybate4yq.jpg
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Light wood and dark cabinets look okay in my studio. The wood floors are reclaimed bowling lanes from "celebrity" when it was demoed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/26/ybate4yq.jpg
That does look good but the key there is the contrast. Youi've got VERY dark cabinets and VERY light floors and the contrast looks fantastic. My floors and cabinets would likely be in the same color pallet family which I'm concerned wouldn't look as good. Whereas with a tile I've got the warm colored wood and then a cool colored/textured tile so it works better. I know I'm knit picking but I've done this a few times and IMO if you can be picky you might as well. Nice kitchen BTW. I'm sure whoever does the bulk of the cooking doesn't appreciate the spaciousness between the fridge & oven/counters though. Speaking of fridge is that a Viking or Subzero?
Light wood and dark cabinets look okay in my studio. The wood floors are reclaimed bowling lanes from "celebrity" when it was demoed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/26/ybate4yq.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To be brutally honest, whomever installed that floor is an idiot. Those who know what I'm talking about will see it right off. Looks like it was installed in sheets. Unless it is supposed to look like that, then I suppose I'm the idiot.
I'm not a pro, but my Pa was and he showed me lots of things, including how to install hardwood flooring.
We once ripped up an old gymnasium and used the hardwood to redo the upstairs (pop-top) in our house. It was a long, arduous summer.
To be brutally honest, whomever installed that floor is an idiot. Those who know what I'm talking about will see it right off. Looks like it was installed in sheets.
I'm not a pro, but my Pa was and he showed me lots of things, including how to install hardwood flooring.
We once ripped up an old gymnasium and used the hardwood to redoo the upstairs (pop-top) in our house. It was a long, arduos summer.
Seems. I wonder if that's how it came from the bowling alley though since it's reclaimed. Maybe have been glued together with some sort of backing laminate like that. Just guessing though.
We used Traffic Master vinyl wood flooring. I have pictures but it's only been a year so it pretty much looks the same. If you do tile, get a commercial scrub brush on a solid wood broom handle (the thicker the better) and it will make cleaning a breeze. Having cleaned tile floors hundreds of times in restaurant kitchens, a stiff brush will make it a snap in a residential home.
Despite some negative reviews about the glue version, I'm planning on installing the Ultra (click-lock) in my RV. Seems the key is to ensure a proper float to avoid gap during expansion/contraction. The only thing I'm not particularly liking is the 200 lbs it will add to my tow rig, and weight=$$$ in fuel. I'm already pushing it with the change from jet-ski's to boat.
I have a wood floor, but the boards are a composite with solid wood on top, and layers underneath that kind of look like OSB or fiberboard. The floor is not as tough as hardwood. My dog's nails (which we keep trimmed) have scratched and gouged the floor. If we were going to do it over, we would get real hardwood.
Sounds like cork flooring.
Firehaus
03-25-2014, 23:28
To be brutally honest, whomever installed that floor is an idiot. Those who know what I'm talking about will see it right off. Looks like it was installed in sheets. Unless it is supposed to look like that, then I suppose I'm the idiot.
I'm not a pro, but my Pa was and he showed me lots of things, including how to install hardwood flooring.
We once ripped up an old gymnasium and used the hardwood to redo the upstairs (pop-top) in our house. It was a long, arduous summer.
It's installed in alley sections pieced together. It's around 3" thick maple. They just flipped them over, so the bowling side is on the bottom. Was here when I bought the place.
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Firehaus
03-26-2014, 18:26
That does look good but the key there is the contrast. Youi've got VERY dark cabinets and VERY light floors and the contrast looks fantastic. My floors and cabinets would likely be in the same color pallet family which I'm concerned wouldn't look as good. Whereas with a tile I've got the warm colored wood and then a cool colored/textured tile so it works better. I know I'm knit picking but I've done this a few times and IMO if you can be picky you might as well. Nice kitchen BTW. I'm sure whoever does the bulk of the cooking doesn't appreciate the spaciousness between the fridge & oven/counters though. Speaking of fridge is that a Viking or Subzero?
Fridge was a commercial True.
This is another unit in my building with more of what your describing contrast wise.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/27/ge8e9epa.jpg
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That doesn't look too bad either. The key to that IMO is the counter tops which are close enough to the floor that they kind of tie everything together. We were looking at a granite that would be similar in color to that so maybe it would work after all.
To everyone that had Bamboo that fell apart... was it engineered or just bamboo? I keep hearing others say that Bamboo is very durable but these photos posted here suggest otherwise. I have heard that engineered hardwood or bamboo has a tendency to fall apart though so that's why I ask. I only want to do this one so whichever I decide I want to make sure it's the best and I don't feel like creating more work for myself in a few years to save a few bucks.
Firehaus
03-26-2014, 22:34
The floors in the last pick are Douglas fir which is pretty soft. 105 years later, they took their last refinish. 105 years of use isn't bad. Are you getting engineered or true 3/4" tongue and groove? I don't think I'd do engineered if I was planning on living there forever. Just me.
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The floors in the last pick are Douglas fir which is pretty soft. 105 years later, they took their last refinish. 105 years of use isn't bad. Are you getting engineered or true 3/4" tongue and groove? I don't think I'd do engineered if I was planning on living there forever. Just me.
From the limited research I've done I don't want to use engineered. That's why I was asking about that since it seems it doesn't last as long.
I've done 2, in my little humble home, went with low end pergo type. it has been down for about 14-15 years now. It shows, I will say however. the first 4 it was down, it look good. Then, I got the lab. In those 10, it has started to look worn. Other than just inside the backdoor, for the most part it has held up decently.
The other I did for a friend, about 5 years ago. A "higher end" snap and click. That one was a breeze, the hardest part was the wear and tear on my beat up knees. She has three dogs, and looking at the floor, you would never know. Kind of wish it had been around when I did mine.
Any more details on the snap & click one that's holding up so well?
ChadAmberg
03-27-2014, 17:00
William, a member here, sells really nice hardwood flooring.
http://www.westerncoswick.com/
You have to think of a hardwood floor as a living entity. It will react to changes in climate, especially humidity. This is especially true with a solid hardwood floor. In Colorado I strongly recommend having a whole house humidifier for any hardwood floor, but it is especailly important for solid.
A solid hardwood floor should be 3/4" thick. If so it can be resanded 3-4 times over a life time. A solid floor should only be installed above grade over a wood subfloor.
I do sell prefinished hardwood floors and if you want you can call me for advice at seven one nine 2 2 nine forty five thirty five.
You have to think of a hardwood floor as a living entity. It will react to changes in climate, especially humidity. This is especially true with a solid hardwood floor. In Colorado I strongly recommend having a whole house humidifier for any hardwood floor, but it is especailly important for solid.
A solid hardwood floor should be 3/4" thick. If so it can be resanded 3-4 times over a life time. A solid floor should only be installed above grade over a wood subfloor.
I do sell prefinished hardwood floors and if you want you can call me for advice at seven one nine 2 2 nine forty five thirty five.
Thanks for chiming in. This floor would be installed above grade and on a wood subfloor. The basement will be mostly carpet with a few areas going to be finished concrete or tile.
Due to our house being green-built the builder won't honor warranties if a humidifier is added as they even have fans on humidistats to remove humidity before mold becomes an issue. From this aspect our home has better humidity control than most and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the changes in humidity that can cause issues with hardwood flooring, right?
Thanks for chiming in. This floor would be installed above grade and on a wood subfloor. The basement will be mostly carpet with a few areas going to be finished concrete or tile.
Due to our house being green-built the builder won't honor warranties if a humidifier is added as they even have fans on humidistats to remove humidity before mold becomes an issue. From this aspect our home has better humidity control than most and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it's the changes in humidity that can cause issues with hardwood flooring, right?
Yes, that is the major concern. If the water content of the wood drops below 7% you can have major issues with the wood cracking and splitting. I have heard of this happening in Colorado, but have never seen it myself. Relative humidity would have to get extremely low for that to happen.
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Couple pictures of solid floors I have done in C/S.
Looks good. Thoughts on engineered versus solid? Sounds like the engineered may be cheaper but doesn't last well at all. What about some of the newer versions that are supposedly better? I think I'm still leaning towards solid real stuff but at this point open to new innovations that may be better if they exist.
Looks good. Thoughts on engineered versus solid? Sounds like the engineered may be cheaper but doesn't last well at all. What about some of the newer versions that are supposedly better? I think I'm still leaning towards solid real stuff but at this point open to new innovations that may be better if they exist.
It depends on quality. The cheapest engineered have a rotary cut (http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/cuts.html) top or wear layer. The reason that is used is it has the least amount of waste. The problem is wood will attempt to regain it's orginal shape and rotary cut lamella (layer) on floors are notorious for cracking and peeling. What you want to look for is a plain sawn lamella (top layer) that is at least 2-4 mm thick (the company I rep only makes 4mm top layers.). A 2mm thick top layer can be sanded once, a 4 mm top layer can be sanded 2-3 times which will give you a lifetime of use. To contrast a solid hardwood floor can be sanded 3-4 times.
There are actually some advantages to a quality engineered floor. One they are less likely to be affected by changes in humidity (given floating or glued down with a 100% urethane glue) as the whole floor tends to move together. The other is they can be installed below grade over conrete. The last is they can be floated which makes installation 10x easier than stapling/glue down. The disadvantage of floating is if your subfloor is not near perfect, resanding it down the line will be difficult if not impossible, and it is possible to have places on the floor that flex when you step on it. A glued or stapled down engineered floor will not have those issues. Acoustically you can match the sound of a solid floor by putting cork as an underlayment. That will raise your job cost by 30-50 cents a square foot.
It depends on quality. The cheapest engineered have a rotary cut (http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/cuts.html) top or wear layer. The reason that is used is it has the least amount of waste. The problem is wood will attempt to regain it's orginal shape and rotary cut lamella (layer) on floors are notorious for cracking and peeling. What you want to look for is a plain sawn lamella (top layer) that is at least 2-4 mm thick (the company I rep only makes 4mm top layers.). A 2mm thick top layer can be sanded once, a 4 mm top layer can be sanded 2-3 times which will give you a lifetime of use. To contrast a solid hardwood floor can be sanded 3-4 times.
There are actually some advantages to a quality engineered floor. One they are less likely to be affected by changes in humidity (given floating or glued down with a 100% urethane glue) as the whole floor tends to move together. The other is they can be installed below grade over conrete. The last is they can be floated which makes installation 10x easier than stapling/glue down. The disadvantage of floating is if your subfloor is not near perfect, resanding it down the line will be difficult if not impossible, and it is possible to have places on the floor that flex when you step on it. A glued or stapled down engineered floor will not have those issues. Acoustically you can match the sound of a solid floor by putting cork as an underlayment. That will raise your job cost by 30-50 cents a square foot.
Great info. It sounds like engineered wood can actually be better than solid wood if you get the right product then, right? I was scared away from the horror stories but it sounds like those may have been due to an inferior product that's not exclusive to the entire segment.
Great info. It sounds like engineered wood can actually be better than solid wood if you get the right product then, right? I was scared away from the horror stories but it sounds like those may have been due to an inferior product that's not exclusive to the entire segment.
That is true. Beware products made in China or sold by companies with initials LL. There are plenty of great options from US and European manufacturers.
That is true. Beware products made in China or sold by companies with initials LL. There are plenty of great options from US and European manufacturers.
Let me ask you this then, if you were going to rip out carpet/pad in the house you live in and do something other than carpet/pad.... what would you go with & why?
Let me ask you this then, if you were going to rip out carpet/pad in the house you live in and do something other than carpet/pad.... what would you go with & why?
I did just rip out around 800 square feet of beer stained (not sure how that happened) and pet vomit stained carpet. Going to preface it with I don't have kids or large energetic dogs in the house. If I didnt have a business selling hardwood floors the other product I would look at besides hardwood is bamboo (with formaldehyde free glue). Personally I would keep/add tile in kitchens or bathrooms. Both hardwoods and bamboo are easy to keep clean and spilled beers and pet vomit will come up quickly even if you find it a couple days later. Both are natural products, are long lasting, and have a natural beauty where every board is unique. Personally I am not a big fan of laminate because of the limited number of patterns used to create it and the fact that the top layer is essentially plastic although it works great in some situations. At one point I would have considered cork until I was on a job site with new cork and the initial VOC emissions were nauseating. This may not be the case with all cork floors but it turned me off.
Two more pics of hardwood floors I was involved with. The first is an engineered American Walnut here in the Springs (very soft, so a no shoes kind of floor). The second is a solid floor in a model home in Minnesota.
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I did just rip out around 800 square feet of beer stained (not sure how that happened) and pet vomit stained carpet. Going to preface it with I don't have kids or large energetic dogs in the house. If I didnt have a business selling hardwood floors the other product I would look at besides hardwood is bamboo (with formaldehyde free glue). Personally I would keep/add tile in kitchens or bathrooms. Both hardwoods and bamboo are easy to keep clean and spilled beers and pet vomit will come up quickly even if you find it a couple days later. Both are natural products, are long lasting, and have a natural beauty where every board is unique. Personally I am not a big fan of laminate because of the limited number of patterns used to create it and the fact that the top layer is essentially plastic although it works great in some situations. At one point I would have considered cork until I was on a job site with new cork and the initial VOC emissions were nauseating. This may not be the case with all cork floors but it turned me off.
Two more pics of hardwood floors I was involved with. The first is an engineered American Walnut here in the Springs (very soft, so a no shoes kind of floor). The second is a solid floor in a model home in Minnesota.
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So talk to me about hardwood v bamboo then. The thought had crossed my mind but then I started hearing horror stories although now it seems as though most of those may have been an inferior engineered product and possibly a better product would hold up better and put it back in the running. I would have thought that by now bamboo would be less expensive than comparable hardwood since it grows so quickly and is so much easier to produce. It seems as though demand has kept the prices up to where hardwood is or more still. I like the idea of soft as we go barefoot but I'm concerned with long-term reliability & durability if we do that. I also had a buddy that did their kitchen floor in cork because his wife wanted a softer surface but after doing that they both swore they'd never do cork flooring again. Just one opinion I guess but it was enough to scare me away from attempting it and will likely just opt for tile in the kitchen & bathrooms. We've got vinyl flooring for now that will be fine until I feel like taking on tile work but as bad as this carpet is I think this project should come first.
So talk to me about hardwood v bamboo then. The thought had crossed my mind but then I started hearing horror stories although now it seems as though most of those may have been an inferior engineered product and possibly a better product would hold up better and put it back in the running. I would have thought that by now bamboo would be less expensive than comparable hardwood since it grows so quickly and is so much easier to produce. It seems as though demand has kept the prices up to where hardwood is or more still. I like the idea of soft as we go barefoot but I'm concerned with long-term reliability & durability if we do that. I also had a buddy that did their kitchen floor in cork because his wife wanted a softer surface but after doing that they both swore they'd never do cork flooring again. Just one opinion I guess but it was enough to scare me away from attempting it and will likely just opt for tile in the kitchen & bathrooms. We've got vinyl flooring for now that will be fine until I feel like taking on tile work but as bad as this carpet is I think this project should come first.
Quality Bamboo is not cheap, and the cheap bamboo has formaldehyde glues. If you take a green product like Bamboo and lace it down with chemicals it isn't all that green anymore. So it is a matter of preference based partially on what you like the look of.
Here is a good article on the pros and cons of each (http://www.builderonline.com/flooring/product-pros-and-cons-hardwood-flooring-vs-bamboo.aspx).
My biased opinion is to buy hardwood and my prices on quality hardwood in Colorado are hard to beat :) But good luck which ever way you go.
Quality Bamboo is not cheap, and the cheap bamboo has formaldehyde glues. If you take a green product like Bamboo and lace it down with chemicals it isn't all that green anymore. So it is a matter of preference based partially on what you like the look of.
Here is a good article on the pros and cons of each (http://www.builderonline.com/flooring/product-pros-and-cons-hardwood-flooring-vs-bamboo.aspx).
My biased opinion is to buy hardwood and my prices on quality hardwood in Colorado are hard to beat :) But good luck which ever way you go.
I'm not as concerned about being green although if I can it's a nice bonus. I get what you're saying about cheap bamboo & probably wouldn't opt to go that way anyway. If the good stuff was that much more cost prohibitive it wouldn't be a consideration anyway. I have been leaning hardwood the entire time but wanted to make sure I was considering all of my options and I know that bamboo has gained in popularity so I wanted to see why and if it had advanced any further since I gave it a cursory look years ago. It seems as though not much has changed though really which makes hardwood a more viable solution. I get that you sell hardwood and appreciate your frankness on the topic. I would also give you a call about sourcing my materials from you if you were closer but getting that much hardwood all the way up here (about 2.5hrs one way) would be cost prohibitive I'm sure.
I'm not as concerned about being green although if I can it's a nice bonus. I get what you're saying about cheap bamboo & probably wouldn't opt to go that way anyway. If the good stuff was that much more cost prohibitive it wouldn't be a consideration anyway. I have been leaning hardwood the entire time but wanted to make sure I was considering all of my options and I know that bamboo has gained in popularity so I wanted to see why and if it had advanced any further since I gave it a cursory look years ago. It seems as though not much has changed though really which makes hardwood a more viable solution. I get that you sell hardwood and appreciate your frankness on the topic. I would also give you a call about sourcing my materials from you if you were closer but getting that much hardwood all the way up here (about 2.5hrs one way) would be cost prohibitive I'm sure.
I am a direct sales rep for a manufacturer. We ship all over the contiguous US directly from our manufacture's warehouse near Toronto. I won't be offended if you don't buy from me of course that is just business, but for quality flooring I can usually beat the to your door price of the brick and mortar stores. Are you installing yourself?
I am a direct sales rep for a manufacturer. We ship all over the contiguous US directly from our manufacture's warehouse near Toronto. I won't be offended if you don't buy from me of course that is just business, but for quality flooring I can usually beat the to your door price of the brick and mortar stores. Are you installing yourself?
How does it work if I order 10% more than my measurements to be safe? I know if I buy local I can simply return the unused portion for a refund but if I'm shipping how does this work? Also, you're able to beat local shop's prices even with freight shipping fees?
How does it work if I order 10% more than my measurements to be safe? I know if I buy local I can simply return the unused portion for a refund but if I'm shipping how does this work? Also, you're able to beat local shop's prices even with freight shipping fees?If you have fairly rectangular rooms and are not installing diagonally, 5% overage is enough. It is important to get the order right the first time if you order from someone like me. Yes, I can almost always beat out the door price for like quality.
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