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View Full Version : Need a favor from someone with a 92-99 Chevy/GMC Suburban.



Colorado_Outback
07-02-2014, 21:40
I have a mad max-ish idea in my head and I'm looking for someone to measure their suburban for me.

Normally I would just go to the junk yard and do it myself but I wont have a chance to get down there for over a week. And I hate (most) used car salesmen. A lot.

I'm looking for the width in between the tail lights on the back and the length from the rear door to the back of the bumper.

Thanks in advance guys.

Great-Kazoo
07-02-2014, 23:55
PM me after 1 tomorrow. By then i would have forgotten what it was someone asked me to do. You want back door measurement with it closed / outside of door to end of bumper, or open?.

kidicarus13
07-03-2014, 06:25
Ya ya ya!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/03/ure2e8e5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/03/rudymyhu.jpg

Colorado_Outback
07-03-2014, 08:18
Ya ya ya!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/03/ure2e8e5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/03/rudymyhu.jpg

Man.. I forgot about the plate armor and gun ports in my design. I need to step my game up.

Colorado_Outback
07-03-2014, 12:45
PM'ed you Jim.

Wulf202
07-03-2014, 14:27
I should be near a 92 suburban and a 99 Tahoe this weekend

Great-Kazoo
07-03-2014, 20:34
You Have Mail

Colorado_Outback
07-03-2014, 22:28
Thanks Kazoo!
Im 3" too short on the back of the camper for the tail lights height wise but all the other dims are workable. Ill have about 12-14" of rear over hang depending on how much C pillar I remove.
Spot weld and seam seal a bulk head on the rear, cut a pass through in the front of the camper and route power and AC back. And fab some mounts off the frame to bolt the camper to.
2500 with 454 would be ideal..
http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/4551476150.html

Great-Kazoo
07-04-2014, 00:15
Replace the stock lights, with 68 - 72 repros. That puts the lights @ 5" OAL. OR forgot stock location, run some LED units in the bumper. You're looking to fab this project as necessary. Why not the lights. As for mounting the camper. You need at least 1/2 - 3/4" of air gap between camer & body. If you don't, you'll rot the camper flooring, and or body. Consider boxing the camper base with 1- 1.5" square tubing. Weld locator tabs on outside of tubing. This gives you a solid mounting camper to body. I might have 20' or so of stock, unless my neighbor scrapped it.

Colorado_Outback
07-04-2014, 08:54
Replace the stock lights, with 68 - 72 repros. That puts the lights @ 5" OAL. OR forgot stock location, run some LED units in the bumper. You're looking to fab this project as necessary. Why not the lights. As for mounting the camper. You need at least 1/2 - 3/4" of air gap between camer & body. If you don't, you'll rot the camper flooring, and or body. Consider boxing the camper base with 1- 1.5" square tubing. Weld locator tabs on outside of tubing. This gives you a solid mounting camper to body. I might have 20' or so of stock, unless my neighbor scrapped it.

Jim, could you pull a tape from the deck in the back to the top of the roof if you get a chance today?

I only have 39" from the base to the cab over so I'm thinking I'll probably have to fabricate a base for the camper to sit on so it will clear the roof.

The more I look at it I think this camper was designed for a smaller truck. There is virtually no info on post 70's Mitchells so I'm just guessing as I go with a lot of things.

Looks like the majority of the dims will work pretty easily.

Great-Kazoo
07-04-2014, 09:00
They were all designed for 6-8" bed 48-52" ( between fender wells) trucks. I put one on a 12" trailer we made. If you use the suburban / Tahoe chassis, plan on cutting everything down /off on side of body from behind driver-passenger seat. OR are you trying to fit camper in to the body, keeping side areas removing roof.

Colorado_Outback
07-04-2014, 09:23
With the base of the camper being 7.5' I think I can get away with putting it behind the rear seats and keeping all 4 doors. I have read that you can fit a 4x8 sheet of ply flat with the 3rd row removed and 2nd row flat, and I know I could ditch the rear seats and have a more compact/balanced unit but I really want to keep it crew.

With the camper weighing in around 1K and the Burb having about 3K between curb weight and GVWR I think I should be able to make it happen :)

ray1970
07-04-2014, 09:36
Not to complicate such an interesting project, but wouldn't it be easier to just stick it in the bed of a crew cab truck?

Wulf202
07-04-2014, 09:42
Suburban are cheaper and have a shorter wheelbase

Colorado_Outback
07-04-2014, 09:51
Not to complicate such an interesting project, but wouldn't it be easier to just stick it in the bed of a crew cab truck?

100 times easier. You can get a nice suburban like this for around 4K
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/4479648380.html

Crew cab silverados are harder to come by in that generation and you would pay 6-8K for a similarly equipped Silverado extended cab vs the Burb.

Plus I have been wanting to build a unique rig and try to get it featured in a magazine of some kind. Just a personal goal of mine.

I like the camper trailer as its setup now, the Cherokee pulls it and all is good but it leaves a lot to be desired when exploring. Turning it around in the back country is a chore and setting the camper on a rig like that would up its exploring capability a ton. Plus being able to setup at events like the Hill Climb with ease.

Lots of positives to this setup in my opinion, like LS swap ability down the road. Tons of LQ9 6.0L's on the internet to be had. The right cam, tune and intake/exhaust and it would be a beast.

ray1970
07-04-2014, 09:54
Fair enough. Makes sense. Thanks.

Post up pictures as you go along.

[Beer]

Colorado_Outback
07-04-2014, 11:07
Fair enough. Makes sense. Thanks.

Post up pictures as you go along.

[Beer]

For sure!

And then there is this...
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff19/ChrisInVT/IMG_3184.jpg

[rockon]