Looking to get a new compound bow, have some questions...

[TriggerHappy]

Mods, sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

So it has been about 20 years since I owned a bow, puts me at about 11 years old. I understand a lot has changed since then. I have been to a few big box stores and also to No Limits Archery, and had a few questions for the bow hunters here.

I think I have narrowed it down to the Mathews Chill x and the Hoyt Faktor 34. I believe in the "buy once, cry once" mentality, but is there that big of a difference between a $700 bow and a $1200 bow? Does anyone have a favorite company other than these two and why?

I plan on hunting big game (here, Alaska, and Africa in 2015) and have decided on a #60 draw weight.

Im currently leaning towards the Mathews, I thought it balanced better. Im still learning and trying to understand the different cams and how they affect everything and still want to shoot a couple more. I did try an Elite and a bowtech.

Any input would be appreciated.

[275RLTW]

It's very similar to guns. Find the one that fits you better and you feel more comfortable with. Either one will be sufficient for you needs (dangerous African game excluded). Yes, there is a difference between $700 and $1200 bows. Whether or not that difference is worth the extra $$$ to you is your call.

Now, simple differences about single cam vs. dual cams:
Single cams:
-smoother draw curve
-less timing issues
-less perceived noise

Dual cams:
-Faster
-steeper draw curve
-possible timing issues
-allows for more fine tuning

Get to the range and try some out. Do go to a Pro Shop and not the kid at the sporting good store for advice. The wrong draw length will greatly hamper your shooting (most people shoot 1-1.5" too long a draw length).

[Colorado Osprey]

What I don't understand after looking at bows recently, is all the "new" changes make the bows less and less forgiving making them more difficult to shoot accurately... repeatedly. Shorter axle to axle, aggressive cams and short brace lengths. All of these "new" features make the newer bow less forgiving but faster. I guess the thinking is a faster bow is needed more than one that can be shot repeatedly the same to produce the same accuracy. There have been some great gains in technology. Mostly from 70's and newer. Some of the technology is a gee wiz bang money maker, and some truly improved bows by leaps and bounds.

FWIW, I still shoot a 15 year old bow and my speed isn't giving anything up on the "new" bows. I got my speed from draw weight and cable/eccentric design.
Interstingly enough IBO speed is the comparing factor for speed, but if you are not shooting 70# bow and have a 30" arrow weighing 350 grains you are not getting the IBO speed that is advertised.
I'm sure some of you have run your arrows through a chrono and many can't get those advertised speeds.... or passed their IBO and thought, wow.. I got a gem.

Some say you get what you pay for.... but I am a fan of the older bows. (yes, I can afford to shoot a new bow... but choose not to)

[TRnCO]

IMO, no need to worry about anything other than 1)if it fits you/correct draw length, 2)you are satisfied with the cost, 3)if it fits you, 4)you're happy with how it feels, 5)if it fits you, 6)you're happy with how heavy it is, 7)if it fits you, 8)it has the draw weight that you're looking for, 9)if it fits you, 10)you're happy with it. I'm also in the camp that I don't need the new whiz bang features, but my current bow is only about 10 years old now and it still fills my needs just fine. Matter of fact, if something happened to it tomorrow and I was forced to buy a "new" one, I'd buy used.

[sniper7]

Matthews all the way. Love em. Buy one and you will too

[DocMedic]

I shoot a Ross COMPETITION 38" A2A, while not a hunting bow it works great for hitting dime size X's at 25yards :). The whole time issue with "dual" cams have gone the way of the dodo. Also you'll never get the advertise FPS unless you shoot a 80lbs draw with super lite shaft arrows. From my personal experience the Hoyt will have a smoother draw. On paper it looks expensive but you can really get them for well under 1000. The only experience I have with Mathews are there single Cam Comp bows. But mathews makes good stuff, but there is a reason why Hoyt has been a industry leader for so long.

[StagLefty]

I hunted and shot competition for quite awhile back in the day. The most common mistake I used to see was people buying a bow at a big box store to save on the initial purchase and then come into the archery range/store where I shot and find that the bow didn't fit them and sometimes couldn't be adjusted to fit them. I'd find a local archery range/store and see what they can offer in a package deal plus you'll have a place to practice and meet like minded folks. JMHO

[MED]

I've found that things really changed. I spent a lot of time with archery in the 80s; I don't know if the range at the Air Force Academy is still there, but that was my favorite place to shoot. I have two bows that I still use and a few that I don't. One is a Ben Pearson 30" @ 80lbs shooting 2317s and the other is a Proline Recurve 30" @ 72lbs shooting 2016s. A few years ago, I brought my Ben Pearson into a range in arrow, and I got a lot of strange looks.

Since shooting is becoming such a PITA, I am thinking about getting new bows for me and my son. It looks like the days of shooting at my camp site are numbered.

Good luck on your purchase; it looks like there is a lot of cool stuff out there now.

[Rabid]

Check out Elite Archery, i am really happy with one of their bows but i know nothing about their new offerings.

[TriggerHappy]

Awesome, thanks for the input. Im still scratching my head. LOL Its in the budget for this month.

[Holger Danske]

If you like the Mathews then get it. You can certainly spend more on a bow, but if a bow fits then go with it. I've got a Hoyt Alpahmax 32 and there are times when I miss my old bowtech patriot for the dual cam and the longer length. Wifey-poo shoots an Elite, which I would recommend to anyone, but you can spend a lot more than on a Mathews. Jr Operator #1 shoots a Mathews Mission Craze, which is a great shooter. (Jr Operator #2 shoots a genesis, and Jr Operator #3 shoot a bear.) The important thing is to get a bow you like and go shoot the heck out of it.

[TriggerHappy]

Well, I shot just about everything. Ordered a Mathews Chill R today from No Limits. Can't wait to start practicing.

[ColoWyo]

The cute blond at the archery shop couldn't seal the deal?

I would of bought her a house.

[TriggerHappy]

What are you guys using for broad heads? I am looking at the Muzzy Mx3/4, QAD Exodus, G5 Montec and Striker. Not looking at Mechanicals currently. What is the difference with the 3 to 4 blade? does straight fletching work or does Helical? I think I have narrowed down my arrow choices and decided on the Maxima Reds 350.

[275RLTW]

helicial or a straight offset work best with broadheads. If you do your bare shaft tuning, it won't matter what broad heads you're using as long as they're the same weight.

The Montecs are almost indestructible but require sharpening. I use them and the old Thunderheads.

[TriggerHappy]

Thanks, its hard researching because its like asking someone should I buy a chevy, dodge or ford...

[Rabid]

Paper tuning with the Muzzy 4 blades was less finicky with one of my bows, an old carbon short limb design, so i have pretty much stuck with them but i think more modern bows can power through that problem much better. I have a set of Montec's and Striker's that work with my current bow and they look like an art piece to me. They all do the job if you do yours. Also i still believe in paper tuning even though a lot of shops have moved away from it.
As coloccw said a helicial or a straight offset works best from what i have seen but if using a whisker biscuit you will need to re-fletch much more often.

[gnihcraes]

Recurve or Longbow. Wood, carbon or aluminum arrows. More challenging that way. :)

You never know when you might have to kill a dinosaur

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