View Full Version : Campers 101
Teach me.
I'm looking at picking up a camper of some kind in the next 6 months. It doesn't need to be anything crazy but Ive never owned a camper so was hoping for some insight. I'm looking at pop-ups and some hard sided travel trailers. Any suggestions on brands to look for/stay away from? Pros/cons of pop-ups versus hard sided? Having a toilet sounds great but then you remember you have to clean it out. How bad is that?
Any other tips/insight would be awesome. Its just the wife and I with 2 smaller dogs. We plan on kids somewhat soon so it does need SOME space/amenities on the inside.
Thanks!
Better go to a dealer and just look at all the different kinds. Think about your tow vehicle and what it can pull (add in weight of gear, dogs, stuff, and more stuff).
toilets are easy to clean, if you go to campgrounds a lot have a dump station on property.
size will also limit where you can get into. I have a 19' travel trailer and it can get into some of the smaller spots in national forest, plenty big for extended camping at camp sites, isn't terribly heavy.
if you are going into the mountains that is another thing to think about if your tow vehicle can haul it up the mountain and if it can slow it down coming down the mountain. If the camper has brakes, do you have a brake controller in your tow vehicle?
I have an '06 Tacoma. No brake controller but has a solid tow rating (as far as mid size gas truck go) of like 6500 lbs or so. It towed a car on a flat trailer over Vail pass so a camper should be easy cheesy.
Great-Kazoo
07-14-2014, 14:51
Pop-up
POR - easy to tow, maneuver, store
CON - very unsecure . A razor knife can turn your pop up in to a gutted shell. Terrible to heat vs hard side when cold.
LEAKS unless the previous owner[s] maintaind the pop up expect some moldy and or integrity issues with the canvas.
We had 1 pop-up. It was great to tow (lost 1.5mpg) overall. Very easy to set up and store , end of year. HOWEVER it was a security nightmare. Unattended it was ripe for easy access theft.
Pull behind / enclosed unit. Great for all weather use. Security wise, much better than pop-up. A decent hard side usually has a stand up shower / bathroom.
What you decide on ends up being a split decision between you and the spouse.
The best of both worlds is an A-LINER. Little pricier, however it's a good melding of pop-up and hard side.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.607992667233324524&pid=15.1&P=0
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608040611963013220&pid=15.1&P=0
Another one to look at is a HI-LO. Hard side that cranks up to become a full sized enclosed unit.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608015078385191032&pid=15.1&P=0
https://sp1.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608012372550224245&pid=15.1&P=0
Now that you have a basic idea, lets get in to inspection.
Materials to bring with you when inspecting a camper.
Tarp
Ladder
Flashlight
Gloves - work and latex . Latex for inspecting the toilet, shower and sink area (trust me)
N95 respirator. Once again trust me. N95 is worse case scenario. Hopefully you would have driven away (fast) before actually setting foot in a unit that CDC would quarantine.
Once you locate a unit. Start at the roof. Does it look like it's been resealed, does it look like repairs to sky light, around sink / toilet vent have been resealed? If so how many times?
Windows. same for sealed, check for leaks inside. The hidden areas around inside window molding, base of window, show what if any leaks there are / were . IF the window[s] show signs of resealing. was it done 1/2 ass or correct.
1/2 ass / hurry, bead of silicone around window frame.
Correct (money spent) the window will have been removed and resealed between frame and camper shell
LEAKS: The bane of any thing one buys.
Having mentioned windows. Inspect the door AND water fill area for same .
Now lets do a closer check of the camper. If it has a shower / toilet. How do the gaskets look, does the enclosure look like a flop house reseal of seams? Go under the sink area. wet spots, signs of leaks, AGAIN 1/2 seal job of fittings etc. Look at all corners under sink and toilet. Does the floor feel solid, OR some flexing? You can apply the same check around the windows. Is the framing solid or questionable?
After looking at the interior, crawl under the unit (bring a tarp and gloves, latex preferred) look at the material used to cover the bottom. 99% of the time it is a tight somewhat heavy mesh. Intact, good, shows there is minimal signs of rodent infestation. It also shows how they unit was maintained. Did they keep it clean, was it used off road or basic campground weekends. ANY SIGNS OF TORN OR DISCOLORED MESH Means potential leaks, you were unable to detect from the interior. And or Rodents have used the underside for nesting. WALK AWAY IMMEDIATELY. Inspecting a camper is like looking at a vehicle you want to buy.
If you don't know what you're looking at bring someone who does.
You will see a cherry unit. The seller says, we redid the floor and replaced water lines. RED FLAGS Possible the owner failed to winterize, or maintain it. Walk Away.
I mention leaks and repairs a few times. Why, it's the unseen that will bite you in the ass after buying. We have seen more units with MOLD, Mushrooms / fungus , serious piles of rodent droppings etc.
One unit the seller said they redid the flooring, because the hot water heater sprung a leak. Looked underneath, literally 1/2 the underside covered with mushrooms, NOT some small caps. MUSHROOMS, Shittake size caps!!
Spoke with another seller , said their pull behind was CHERRY. Hardly used, mostly for visitors in town. Well after driving behind the cow pasture manure hill, we saw the CHERRY camper. It was painted CHERRY! Broken windows, roof had more water damage then a septic tank. PILE OF RODENT DROPPINGS, LOOKED LIKE ANTS
Regarding a toilet. You pay to dump your sewage. Us we never use the toilet , prefer the utility version of a crapper. Luggable LOO, or any other camping portable unit. Why? easy to maintain, and dispose of waste bags.
If you were close,r i'd say hire my spouse to look at campers with you. We've owned slide in's, pop-ups and pull behind's a few years. Know what to look for and what to avoid. Once you look at 2-3 campers you'll see what i'm talking about.
YMMV
There are other things when looking, i'm sure i forgot to mention.
Thanks Kazoo! That's what I was looking for. You confirmed what I was already kind of thinking in terms of hard side vs pop up. Pop-ups are just so cheap compared but there's a reason.
Can you get good used deals at dealers? Is it safer to buy a used one at a dealer? Or is it like used cars where it's still a crap shoot?
There's very little (or none as I recall) camping permitted in Yellowstone with any soft-sided camper due to bears with razors.
I'm coming from tent camping so a pop up isn't really putting me worse off as far as security goes.
JohnTRourke
07-14-2014, 15:20
so, you mean trailer, not camper right? And Kazoo's post is really good.
pop up trailers (and campers) have all the minuses of both a tent and a trailer. Bleech. Stay away IMO
Your tow rating is barely going to get you much, the light weight trailers are lightweight for a reason. They aren't built very well/strong (even for RV's which aren't built very well period)
BUY USED
The only thing that depreciates faster than an RV is a boat. (maybe). Lots of people wanting to get out from their RV that they haven't used in a few years.
Toliets and black/grey tanks are easy. One thing that really allows you to boondock for a long time is big tanks. The size of the tanks is a big plus. You won't find big ones in pull behinds, but even a couple gallons makes a big difference.
the arfcom of RV's is rv.net. TONS of information on the forums there.
All RV dealers suck. suck suck suck suck suck. Suck. Figure you are going to repairing stuff yourself, finding parts is a pain, but the internet makes this WAY better than it used to.
As Kazoo said, water leaks is the most important thing to look for, after that it can all be fixed.
Any "better" brands to look for? Any brands to stay away from?
With that truck I wouldn't be getting a hard sided trailer more than 4000 lbs. the wind will move your truck and trailer around quite a bit, you will want some sort of anti-sway set up. Plus, once you add in gear, all the womenz stuff like food and cooking materials and extra clothes and blankets and toys for kids and dog accessories etc, you will add up a good bit of weight.
plus, figure a 30 gallon fresh water tank, that's another 250lbs, if you have anything in the grey or black, you are pulling more. When you get one and go, find a spot to fill up water near your camping area or if they have a fresh water hookup don't out any in the tank. Saves a lot of weight. and dump after you camp if you can find somewhere close.
you will want to get a brake controller installed. That truck will be severely handicapped without getting one. Think a full camper going down I-70 on the back side of Eisenhower.
dealers are really just for looking at IMO. campers on average probably get used 10-20 nights per year. Even a 10 year old camper has seen very little use generally.
Great-Kazoo
07-14-2014, 16:29
Thanks Kazoo! That's what I was looking for. You confirmed what I was already kind of thinking in terms of hard side vs pop up. Pop-ups are just so cheap compared but there's a reason.
Can you get good used deals at dealers? Is it safer to buy a used one at a dealer? Or is it like used cars where it's still a crap shoot?
BUY USED, BUY AFTER LABOR DAY, BUY FROM ANYONE BUT A DEALER. Window shop at the dealer. Buy after labor day, road test the new camper, then winterize it. OR if you decide it's not you, winterize and resell in mid april, may.
Based on your vehicle an A-liner, or tent, would be your best bet. Hard sided will be a death trap on anything over 4% incline. Factor in water (8lbs per gallon) gear, food etc you'll peak out before you're fully loaded.
We fill up close to our destination, if not at. Based on your vehicle, i would buy a basic A-liner, use a port a potty / Luggable Loo, solar shower , use the melted ice water for cleaning dishes etc.
Option D would be a slide in unit for the taco.
https://sp3.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608003932938568047&pid=15.1&P=0
https://sp2.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608040465936289482&pid=15.1&P=0
https://sp2.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.607996184819535798&pid=15.1&P=0
OR buy a 10-12' enclosed trailer, air mattresses , small propane stove, and enjoy the weekend. Our 12" trailer is storage and or camper, as needed.
Guess I should just buy this...
http://rockies.craigslist.org/rvs/4549905208.html
Colorado_Outback
07-14-2014, 17:58
Yes you should. That thing is sweet. Bet backing a side by side out of that thing takes some balls and commitment haha like backing it off a cliff.
colorider
07-15-2014, 15:35
Only brand I would say to stay away from is Forest River. My buddy has one of their toy haulers and it has been a nightmare since day 1. Broken axles, (replaced 3x) leaf springs, water pump, gas delivery, generator, cracked frame, broken sink fixture. And the list goes on. It was NOT overloaded. The stock axles and springs were way underated and the wrong ones. Lets just say Forest River should be avoided.
Only brand I would say to stay away from is Forest River. My buddy has one of their toy haulers and it has been a nightmare since day 1. Broken axles, (replaced 3x) leaf springs, water pump, gas delivery, generator, cracked frame, broken sink fixture. And the list goes on. It was NOT overloaded. The stock axles and springs were way underated and the wrong ones. Lets just say Forest River should be avoided.
I would avoid toyhaulers altogether. I don't think Forest River is any worse or better than any others. The manufacturers all have low end and high end units. A friend in the RV biz has a Forest River Cardinal if that tells you anything. He tells me that the highest warranty claims on toyhaulers prize seems to go to Keystone's Fuzion.
We have a Keystone Cougar and except for an issue with the (Lippert) frame in the front I repaired, and the recalled axles replaced under warranty, it's been a good rig even with those issues. I did replace the crappy drawer slides on a few of the larger drawers with ball bearing slides, but it has otherwise held up good. All RV's are a maintenance pit. EVERY SINGLE ONE.
colorider
07-15-2014, 22:31
I have found that a lot of the toyhauler problems in general is that they are shaving weight in order to get max hauling capacity. Frames are just not what they used to be. Anything labled "superlight, ultralight etc is asking for problems.
Great-Kazoo
07-16-2014, 00:08
I have found that a lot of the toyhauler problems in general is that they are shaving weight in order to get max hauling capacity. Frames are just not what they used to be. Anything labled "superlight, ultralight etc is asking for problems.
Let's not forget, some toy hauler owners could care less how their unit works. Long as they get in early enough for prime spot, and their beer is still cold. That noise going down the culvert, from the trailer shocks . They'll look at it back home, if they remember. Damn kid busted the atv' s brake cable.
If you're over 6' most of them are a headache
I have a23 foot trailer in very good shape and I can toss in a brake controller to.
It has a full bed and room for a queen in the front (or fold out couch) heat stove B room ect
all work. so If I don't get kicked you can PM me.
Great-Kazoo
07-16-2014, 15:44
I have a23 foot trailer in very good shape and I can toss in a brake controller to.
It has a full bed and room for a queen in the front (or fold out couch) heat stove B room ect
all work. so If I don't get kicked you can PM me.
Even with nitrous, no taco will haul a 23' pull behind.
Much depends on your time and wife. We went from motorcycle, car to pickup camping to popup then she quit. If you only get out for a day or so the hassle of a popup can get old. They eat propane when its cold and windy.
If you have a flat bed trailer, I'd consider a slide in pick up camper, then you won't be stuck on paying two trailer tags and the hassle of two sets of tires etc. I have seen neighbors go from Popup to 18 foot hard side to 25 foot and then buying a F-250.
Do you have friends that camp? If the kids have other kids to play with all is better. Dogs in camp grounds are a hassle.
Great-Kazoo
07-16-2014, 17:46
Dogs in camp grounds are a hassle.
Almost as much as a wife who doesn't like camping but, wanted to make you happy.
SamuraiCO
07-16-2014, 18:16
http://adrenalincampers.com/
Here is a local company that I am seriously looking at because the aussie products I want are not available in the US.
Great-Kazoo
07-16-2014, 18:22
http://adrenalincampers.com/
Here is a local company that I am seriously looking at because the aussie products I want are not available in the US.
Still a soft sided unit. A little work here and there on any suspension , gets you similar results.
http://adrenalincampers.com/
Here is a local company that I am seriously looking at because the aussie products I want are not available in the US.
Website slideshow fail on ESR
While we're at it, anybody want to recommend LED replacement bulbs for campers?
i found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-White-1156-BA15S-27-SMD-5050-LED-Tail-Backup-RV-Camper-Brake-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/171356871613?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item27e5aa5bbd&vxp=mtr
While we're at it, anybody want to recommend LED replacement bulbs for campers?
i found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-White-1156-BA15S-27-SMD-5050-LED-Tail-Backup-RV-Camper-Brake-Light-Lamp-Bulb-/171356871613?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item27e5aa5bbd&vxp=mtr
Why?
I've replaced maybe three lamps in my 2004. Maybe we don't use it enough.
jerrymrc
07-16-2014, 19:42
Mine was set up to dry camp. LED's solar,inverters and gels. If one is going to dry camp then this becomes important. I do miss mine.
Lower power consumption
Mine was set up to dry camp. LED's solar,inverters and gels. If one is going to dry camp then this becomes important. I do miss mine.
OK, I get that for max battery in a dry camp, but for tails/brake?
We don't dry camp much, but when we do, Meh, I just fire up the genset (quietized) when needed. I can see the benefit of optimizing for dry camping.
killianak9
07-16-2014, 22:53
I would avoid toyhaulers altogether. I don't think Forest River is any worse or better than any others. The manufacturers all have low end and high end units. A friend in the RV biz has a Forest River Cardinal if that tells you anything. He tells me that the highest warranty claims on toyhaulers prize seems to go to Keystone's Fuzion.
We have a Keystone Cougar and except for an issue with the (Lippert) frame in the front I repaired, and the recalled axles replaced under warranty, it's been a good rig even with those issues. I did replace the crappy drawer slides on a few of the larger drawers with ball bearing slides, but it has otherwise held up good. All RV's are a maintenance pit. EVERY SINGLE ONE.
Agree with brutal a 100%. Every make has their issues (high and low end units). We bought our first New Forest River Wildcat 323Qb 5th wheel last year from RVWholesaler in Ohio. Had it for ten months and so far the only issue was the fan on our AC fan got stuck and the motor wouldnt kick it over. Removed the cover, have it a little push and it turned freely. Before that we ownd a Jayco hybrid 23J (bought used from Ketelson) and never had a single issue! Those are the only two brands I have own/own. As said before, Do your research at the dealer and get what your tow vehicle can handle and comes close to your needs. Almost never going to have that "perfect" unit but can get damn close.Sniper and Kazoo's advise are dead on. Good luck and keep us posted.
Yeah, I think I'm going to end up with a pop-up for now. I'm not in any rush so I can be picky and find one that has been well kept/maintained. I just can't afford to buy a truck, camper, etc at this point. I need to baby step my way into trailers. A lot of good information in here though. Thanks everyone! A pop up will be leaps and bounds better than tent camping and for how often I'll use it, I think it'll do the trick for now. Also let me get a feel for how I like dealing with a trailer (storage, maintenence) for a smaller investment cost.
Holger Danske
07-17-2014, 19:22
Heres my advice. Campers are money pits. So far this year mine needed the roof sealed, four new tires, and a new charge controller. Will take it out only 3 times this year. You can travel and get a lot of nice hotel rooms for the price of a camper.
But they also don't let you have fires right outside your hotel room, and you can't park a hotel room in the middle or a Forrest.
yes, it will cost you some money, but for the experience it is worth it IMO.
I plan to do what Colorado_Outback did with an in-bed camper on a trailer.
jerrymrc
07-17-2014, 20:18
But they also don't let you have fires right outside your hotel room, and you can't park a hotel room in the middle or a Forrest.
yes, it will cost you some money, but for the experience it is worth it IMO.
I will agree. The only reason I sold mine was the nice place in the middle of nowhere I could not camp in. I love solitude and the late season time spent at BCGC was priceless. I had mine for 7 years and it was 6 when I bought it. A good one is worth it. I paid $6k and sold it for $4k. The $2k difference for the 7 years it gave me good times= priceless.[Flower]
And mine was never a money pit. Spent all of $700 for tires and repairs during it's time with me. Roof was still good 13 years later.
Great-Kazoo
07-17-2014, 20:24
Heres my advice. Campers are money pits. So far this year mine needed the roof sealed, four new tires, and a new charge controller. Will take it out only 3 times this year. You can travel and get a lot of nice hotel rooms for the price of a camper.
Maintenance, helps prevent mechanical failures, before they begin. Nothing personal, unless the leak was caused by a falling object or vermin damage, it's easy to spot needed repairs, before it gets out of hand. Tires, that's a basic upkeep item, controller, those can irritate you when they crap out.
Heres my advice. Campers are money pits. So far this year mine needed the roof sealed, four new tires, and a new charge controller. Will take it out only 3 times this year. You can travel and get a lot of nice hotel rooms for the price of a camper.
One way around this is to rent one for just the time you use it you can save 10Mo of payments.
Or buy used put up with old save a LOT$$$
ruthabagah
07-28-2014, 15:44
Yeah, I think I'm going to end up with a pop-up for now. I'm not in any rush so I can be picky and find one that has been well kept/maintained. I just can't afford to buy a truck, camper, etc at this point. I need to baby step my way into trailers. A lot of good information in here though. Thanks everyone! A pop up will be leaps and bounds better than tent camping and for how often I'll use it, I think it'll do the trick for now. Also let me get a feel for how I like dealing with a trailer (storage, maintenence) for a smaller investment cost.
A good in-between choice would be a hybrid camper: still light, but hard sided in the middle, with plenty of room inside. A 17ft should be around 3000lbs, a 19/20ft around 3600. Add food, water and beer, and you should be around 4000lbs.
I have owned 3 of them over the years (2 new, one used) and they are very easy to resell if times are tough or just want to change (high demand for hybrids), easy to maintain and tow.
Current setup
47663
Yeah, I think I'm going to end up with a pop-up for now. I'm not in any rush so I can be picky and find one that has been well kept/maintained. I just can't afford to buy a truck, camper, etc at this point. I need to baby step my way into trailers. A lot of good information in here though. Thanks everyone! A pop up will be leaps and bounds better than tent camping and for how often I'll use it, I think it'll do the trick for now. Also let me get a feel for how I like dealing with a trailer (storage, maintenence) for a smaller investment cost.
I like my popup a lot. I can take it into the back country up some pretty good trails before pulling off to find a camping spot. Link (https://www.ar-15.co/threads/133385-Camping-Trip?highlight=Camping) to thread on my last trip. There are tradeoffs on all of them. I like the popup because it is small and I can take it up some pretty rocky trails. I could care less about the heat or anything else because I am fine with a tent. I run the heat before I go to bed and when I get up otherwise I just leave it off. It is nice to have running water, a sink, and a stove. It is also nice to have comfortable beds. I don't care about the bathroom or a shower; never had them before when tent camping. I also don't care about security; never had locks on my tent. Although, I wish that I had an off-road axle. This is important to consider with these; I can fabricate what I want, but others may need to look at popups that are built for trail riding. I plan to either put an off-road axle under the pup-up or I will build a trailer frame with ATV storage in front and tandom off-road axles and mount the popup on the back half of the new trailer frame. I haven't decided and I am not in a hurry because I can put two ATVs on the back of my truck.
Mine is a '97 Viking and the inside still looks like new; I paid $2,500 for it four years ago. I still use a tent if 4-wheeling is the main purpose of the trip. It was a relatively small investment, and I don't mind if it gets banged around. It is nice to be able to maintain it myself. If something breaks, I just fix it; not a big deal.
The larger travel trailers are nice in that you have everything enclosed as well as great storage. However, they are more limiting in both the tow rig as well as the trails. For camp grounds I would use a travel trailer. For mountain camping, I think a popup configured as an adventure trailer is more to my liking. Since, you have a truck, you should have plenty of room for storage unless you put an ATV in it. A slide-in camper is nice too because you can pull a utility trailer. However, I purchased my popup before my divorce and needed the space (I think my pop-up can sleep like 8 or 9 people). As soon as I can afford land somewhere in Wyoming, I am going to get a large 5th wheel, but that will be to live in while I build the cabin. Whatever you do, buy one that is maintained but fully depreciated because they are horrible investments.
Land Rover Camper 101
http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/101%20camper/DSC_0064_zps95e35367.jpg
Great-Kazoo
08-05-2014, 13:13
Land Rover Camper 101
http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/juddyburton/101%20camper/DSC_0064_zps95e35367.jpg
Nice, a more expensive LR waiting on parts.
I ended up trading my Tacoma in for a Duramax. :D I now don't have to worry about towing capacity so Im leaning towards a pop up with the toy hauler space on the front.
Excellent choose on the truck. Anything else would have been junk
I ended up trading my Tacoma in for a Duramax. :D I now don't have to worry about towing capacity so Im leaning towards a pop up with the toy hauler space on the front.
Excellent choose on the truck. Anything else would have been junk
Had you bought a RAM, you could actually tow anything you want.
ROFL. Yeah yeah yeah. I looked at Rams but for what I do, I really liked the luxury that came with the GMC. Its like I'm driving a turbo'd leather sofa.
Had you bought a RAM, you could actually tow anything you want.
Exactly, you could tow it a few miles till it broke down and a Chevy had to tow your ram and your load to the local dealer!
Exactly, you could tow it a few miles till it broke down and a Chevy had to tow your ram and your load to the local dealer!
I got a load for you.
jerrymrc
08-05-2014, 20:46
Exactly, you could tow it a few miles till it broke down and a Chevy had to tow your ram and your load to the local dealer!
That Chevy must have been straight off the dealer's lot and under warranty because in the 12 years I have owned my Dodge it has racked up about $300 in repairs and $150 was for an alternator. In the same time my father and his Chevy Diesel has spent over $4K keeping it going. Just saying. [Flower]
I got a load for you.
Bring it on over! Just text me the cross streets when you break down and I'll come get you and your load! [Coffee]
That Chevy must have been straight off the dealer's lot and under warranty because in the 12 years I have owned my Dodge it has racked up about $300 in repairs and $150 was for an alternator. In the same time my father and his Chevy Diesel has spent over $4K keeping it going. Just saying. [Flower]
Yeah but his has 300K miles, yours has 11,000 [Beer]
gnihcraes
08-05-2014, 21:10
Back on the Camper Subject:
A couple weekends ago, we took out the Fleetwood Popup. I'd been working on it for a week or two, cleaning it, checking supplies, battery, water system etc.
This is how the trip went down:
Rental truck, wiring issues for some reason, only running lights will work, no brake or turn signals. I can't keep messing with it, not even out of the driveway yet. Had to get on the road.
Arrived to camping destination, FOUR people spotting for me as we get the camper parked. (Dad, Wife, the kids) all say "you're ok, ok, looks good"
Kid... Dad, I hear something? Sounds like water?? Crap, they had me drive the camper (pop up) right over a big boulder, Smashed the water tank brackets and the water tank, ripped off the hoses, all the water is draining out. No way to fix, water is nearly all gone now. Good thing we brought bottled water too.
Get the camper opened up, setup the awning, RIPPPPP! Awning falls right off the seam, apparently the stitching has rotted holding it to the rubber strip on the camper. Ok, Rig up some tie down straps to hold all that together.
All is good.
Evening falls, find out the battery is dead. It was fine for weeks before the trip, tested great with 50 amp load, no issues. Solar panel I have isn't enough to charge it up from that deadness. Well, I did have an LED light I rigged up before the trip, it does work with what juice is left in the battery. Happy family, can play some board games before bed. (too lazy to move the truck and setup borrowed jumper cables)
So, just an FYI, prepare the most you can, it might help. If you get a popup, do an axle flip so the camper is higher off the ground. It could prevent some damage. Get some LED lighting setup for inside and outside. Make or buy some kind of jumper cable setup to feed the camper from the truck, nothing heavy duty, but long enough to reach without rearranging the whole camp.
So I'm keeping more items that I might need, in the camper itself. Jumper cables. More LED Lights. Larger solar panel. Water problem, just be more careful where I park. Carry cargo tie downs, very useful.
Just my PopUp story to give some food for thought.
Dang, sorry to hear the bad luck but sounds like you made the most of it! At least it was a good learning experience
Never a dull moment when comparing trucks. Haha
Sounds like it was a rough first time out. Good tips on those things. The little things like that go a long way when removing headaches from a trip.
Are campers like motorcycles and other items and go down in price during winter?
Great-Kazoo
08-05-2014, 21:30
Back on the Camper Subject:
So, just an FYI, prepare the most you can, it might help. If you get a popup, do an axle flip so the camper is higher off the ground. It could prevent some damage. Get some LED lighting setup for inside and outside. Make or buy some kind of jumper cable setup to feed the camper from the truck, nothing heavy duty, but long enough to reach without rearranging the whole camp.
So I'm keeping more items that I might need, in the camper itself. Jumper cables. More LED Lights. Larger solar panel. Water problem, just be more careful where I park. Carry cargo tie downs, very useful.
Just my PopUp story to give some food for thought.
Unless i am misunderstanding your terminology and you did an axle over - under, not actually flip the axle. In that case i apologize. Which i have seen while looking at pull behinds.
An axle flip may cause issues down the road, especially now the bow / camber of the axle is upside down. You can loose alignment once flipped, affecting not only tire wear but overall handling.
Easiest way to get ground clearance, put suspension on top of the axle. Dexter makes a spring Over-Under conversion kit.
gnihcraes
08-05-2014, 21:49
Unless i am misunderstanding your terminology and you did an axle over - under, not actually flip the axle. In that case i apologize. Which i have seen while looking at pull behinds.
An axle flip may cause issues down the road, especially now the bow / camber of the axle is upside down. You can loose alignment once flipped, affecting not only tire wear but overall handling.
Easiest way to get ground clearance, put suspension on top of the axle. Dexter makes a spring Over-Under conversion kit.
I've not changed my camper height or axle/spring flip. You do have to purchase the spring mounts and have them welded on the other side of the axle. Or you can have the dealer do this, but I'm not sure of the costs involved from the dealer. I've no need at this time for the height increase, the axle will still be the same, just the body of the camper would be up out of the weeds a bit more. (and the water tank)
Best advice, get out and check things yourself before relying on the other folks to guide you. LOL
I've been renting a truck instead of taking mine. The old GMC (1985) has no radio, working AC etc. It doesn't like the summer heat either (vapor lock). So it's cheap enough to rent a modern truck and make the family happy during the trip. Rental 3/4 ton Crew Cab 4x4 is $300 for Friday/Sat/Sun return monday morning. I also get to do a real world test drive the different makes and models this way.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ulYr_nEGz_0/U826tUUFsII/AAAAAAAA4tM/ukRusDXr1dM/w1454-h818-no/20140719_143343.jpg
Great-Kazoo
08-05-2014, 21:53
I've not changed my camper height or axle/spring flip. You do have to purchase the spring mounts and have them welded on the other side of the axle. Or you can have the dealer do this, but I'm not sure of the costs involved from the dealer. I've no need at this time for the height increase, the axle will still be the same, just the body of the camper would be up out of the weeds a bit more. (and the water tank
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ulYr_nEGz_0/U826tUUFsII/AAAAAAAA4tM/ukRusDXr1dM/w1454-h818-no/20140719_143343.jpg
Where you camped at? looks nice and people free.
The most exciting thing I see in that picture is your long bow! Lots of fun
gnihcraes
08-05-2014, 22:14
The most exciting thing I see in that picture is your long bow! Lots of fun
Yep, shooting a new model, weekend of field testing.
Between Leadville and Buena Vista... private land bowhunting jamboree
Was not people free... couple thousand people I believe. Different angle looking down on camp... lol.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZmoGvqtf22Q/U9CBW_BEr3I/AAAAAAAA43E/SPX5lF0VyLU/w509-h905-no/20140719_110033.jpg
Great-Kazoo
08-05-2014, 23:18
You made all those folks walk up the hill ;)
ruthabagah
08-06-2014, 08:59
I've not changed my camper height or axle/spring flip. You do have to purchase the spring mounts and have them welded on the other side of the axle. Or you can have the dealer do this, but I'm not sure of the costs involved from the dealer. I've no need at this time for the height increase, the axle will still be the same, just the body of the camper would be up out of the weeds a bit more. (and the water tank)
Best advice, get out and check things yourself before relying on the other folks to guide you. LOL
I've been renting a truck instead of taking mine. The old GMC (1985) has no radio, working AC etc. It doesn't like the summer heat either (vapor lock). So it's cheap enough to rent a modern truck and make the family happy during the trip. Rental 3/4 ton Crew Cab 4x4 is $300 for Friday/Sat/Sun return monday morning. I also get to do a real world test drive the different makes and models this way.
That's a big boulder allright! 47987
ruthabagah
08-06-2014, 09:02
Are campers like motorcycles and other items and go down in price during winter?
Yes they do, BUT, you only have a short window of opportunity (between now and October) to buy one. After that most people will put their camper in storage and forget about it until spring. Best time to buy is late winter/early spring.
I've not changed my camper height or axle/spring flip. You do have to purchase the spring mounts and have them welded on the other side of the axle. Or you can have the dealer do this, but I'm not sure of the costs involved from the dealer. I've no need at this time for the height increase, the axle will still be the same, just the body of the camper would be up out of the weeds a bit more. (and the water tank)
Best advice, get out and check things yourself before relying on the other folks to guide you. LOL
I've been renting a truck instead of taking mine. The old GMC (1985) has no radio, working AC etc. It doesn't like the summer heat either (vapor lock). So it's cheap enough to rent a modern truck and make the family happy during the trip. Rental 3/4 ton Crew Cab 4x4 is $300 for Friday/Sat/Sun return monday morning. I also get to do a real world test drive the different makes and models this way.
I get pretty nervous about hitting rocks as well; my water tank is in the box so it is not exposed. Sounds like you had one issue after another. It is a real bummer when things go south like that.
I plan to buy a new spring and axle assembly. It will cost me $300 for the parts, $250 for the wheels and tires, and a day of my time to deconstruct and weld the new mounts and shackles in place. When I am done, I will have a 3500lbs axle and a significant clearance increase. I will probably take the time to reinforce the frame under the box as well, which is a pretty minimal cost for the steal; I notice that my door frame flexes pretty good when I level it with the corner jacks.
jerrymrc
08-06-2014, 11:36
I notice that my door frame flexes pretty good when I level it with the corner jacks. Um, they are not there to level it. One uses dunnage under the tires and the front jack to level it then the corner jacks are put down to stabilize it. At least that is how I was taught.
Yeah those stabilizer jacks are just to keep it from swaying or moving around on the suspension while you walk/sleep. Don't want to level it with those things
Um, they are not there to level it. One uses dunnage under the tires and the front jack to level it then the corner jacks are put down to stabilize it. At least that is how I was taught.
Yeah, I learned that the first summer I had it; probably a bad example of illustrating how much flex there is in the frame. The terrain I camp in is pretty rugged sometimes and it doesn't always go as planned regardless of the lumber I keep in my truck. I had to use a high lift jack once and build a rock platform under the wheel. I finally got it stable, but it was still flexing some.
gnihcraes
08-06-2014, 20:19
That's a big boulder allright! 47987
Well, the "BIG" boulder is double that size and the camper is still parked on it. Waited until time to leave, then had to build up a ramp of rocks and wood to get the camper up and over it.
colorider
08-16-2014, 17:42
My buddy bought a used warrior "light" toy hauler last year. Last week he noticed 1 tire was wearing really funny. Finds out his frame is cracked in half on one side and almost cracked in half on the other. DOH! going to take some fine welding of gussets to make it usable again.
So I may have found a camper:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4645671476.html
They said they would go as low as $3,000. Seems pretty fair and a good starter camper. Any thoughts? It does need a new hose that connects to the camper (what she told me). Thats the hook up hose I assume? Looks like they're cheap to replace. Looks clean and well taken care compared to a lot of campers out there and for $3,000, it's a cheap way to get into campers and upgrade later.
Just go over the structural stuff, get underneath, bring a ladder to look the roof over really closely. Test out all water connections, burners, heater, AC, water heater, etc
seems me like a good price, even if it needs a few things
Yeah, I thought so too. Im going to go look at it on Saturday and they said everything will be able to be tested (water, pipes, oven, etc).
Nevermind. She sold it from under me. I offered to come up last night and she said to wait until Saturday and would let me know if someone else became interested in the meantime. Emailed me today "It sold last night". UGH. I hate people.
Check this one out:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4652929006.html
That is a HUGE camper. Lol. Im trying to keep it around 20 feet to make it easier to get into mountain spots. But thats very cheap. Hmmm...
Here is another for ya.
http://denver.craigslist.org/snw/4644172492.html
Or this looks kinda cool
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4649489441.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4704986850.html
Going to look at that guy next week when he's back from vacation. Has some hail damage (only cosmetic per seller) and had a little leak in the roof when a skylight was broken out. He said it's a small spot and doesnt leak anymore. He replaced all vents/skylights. Dual propane tanks that were just certified and filled. He made a small deal about the certification but I dont know why? Is it that hard? If it doesn't leak any longer, would that small spot be concerning? I plan on feeling around every window/vent/skylight for squishy. The hail doesn't bother me too much since it's a camper, not a show queen.
If it all checks out as he said, seem fair? Would I be better off waiting until December/January? I heard campers are cheaper around then.
Seems pretty high priced for being almost 20 years old and has hail damage. I'm thinking like $3k tops with all the history. Not to mention it really isn't camping season any more, and it will be stored for the next 5-6 months.
propane certification is I think 10 years and then a shorter duration after that. Some places will fill them either way.
jerrymrc
10-09-2014, 15:35
Seems pretty high priced for being almost 20 years old and has hail damage. I'm thinking like $3k tops with all the history. Not to mention it really isn't camping season any more, and it will be stored for the next 5-6 months.
propane certification is I think 10 years and then a shorter duration after that. Some places will fill them either way.
That is a lot high. Yes it is 2' longer than mine but it is 5 years older and Jayco's are OK for quality. It is going to need an awning as well and looks to have had some repair work done. Almost the same layout as mine but $3500 tops. Inspect the roof very carefully.
Hmmm...I guess I just need to sit tight for a while. I've been watching prices for a while and this is definitely on the lower end for a 20'+ trailer. I guess ive just been looking at peak season and don't have anything else to base price off of.
Snowman78
10-09-2014, 17:19
I also think it's high, I would only pay $4,500.00 tops. It is a bunk house (rear bunks) and they tend to go for a little more.
Yeah, I just love the floorplan. The bathroom is in the rear, queen bed up front, bunks, couch and dinette. Hard to find all that under $7500 it seems.
Anybody have an opinion on casita travel trailers? Or maybe something similar but better?
Hmmm...I guess I just need to sit tight for a while. I've been watching prices for a while and this is definitely on the lower end for a 20'+ trailer. I guess ive just been looking at peak season and don't have anything else to base price off of.
In the end, it's only money, and if it is what you want after checking it out, make the guy an offer. This time of year people want to dump these and boats. If not most folks are stuck paying $30-50 a month for storage, maybe more, then trying to sell again in the spring.
Sent this guy an email too:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4704216829.html
Sniper, yeah, at the end of the day, we're not talking tens of thousands. He's going on vacation until Wednesday. Im going to go check it out then. He offered to even meet me at 7 am today so that tells me he's itching to sell it. He told me $5k was the lowest he'd go but I think he'll go lower if he sees cash.
Much better deal on that one. I'd be interested what the minor blemish is though. Probably hail or dent(s)
Snowman78
10-10-2014, 20:05
Sent this guy an email too:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4704216829.html
Sniper, yeah, at the end of the day, we're not talking tens of thousands. He's going on vacation until Wednesday. Im going to go check it out then. He offered to even meet me at 7 am today so that tells me he's itching to sell it. He told me $5k was the lowest he'd go but I think he'll go lower if he sees cash.
I like this one too!! No bunks but if it will work for you it seems like a good deal.
Great-Kazoo
10-10-2014, 20:15
Sent this guy an email too:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4704216829.html
Sniper, yeah, at the end of the day, we're not talking tens of thousands. He's going on vacation until Wednesday. Im going to go check it out then. He offered to even meet me at 7 am today so that tells me he's itching to sell it. He told me $5k was the lowest he'd go but I think he'll go lower if he sees cash.
Here's possible warning signs of leaks .
New roof vents and hoods. Were they hail damaged or other problem?
Any time you see a vent was repaired for Minor Leak, that's telling you they never noticed the leak till someone was getting a face full of rain while camping. OR they saw a pool of water on blankets etc. When a vent leaks the water usually travels down the interior space between roof and walls of camper. A leak may be found as far away as the opposite wall. From the many campers we have purchased (and sold by labor day) plus the many EXCELLENT CONDITION (minor leak repaired) units, i'd suggest a thorough inspection of the interior, including floor to wall sections etc.
Next item, anything over 19-20 are boat anchors with over priced tags on them. Who pays seasonal full boat on something that should be winterized and in storage? Might as well buy a used (approx 1K rounds) AR for $1200 instead new for $900.
Those tandem 20"+ units will be there in dec, jan & feb. Look around now, make notes on units viewed, then again come jan &, feb. That's going in to prime buying time.
Remember first one who talks, Looses.
Haven't read this whole thread but don't be afraid to repair small issues like a water pump or water heater if you can get a smokin deal. We just picked this up a month ago and when we went and looked at it, at first I thought no way as it was filthy and the owner couldn't get some things to work. I played the issues to my advantage and was able to get the guy to come way down on his price. In the end, my MIL and wife spent 12+ hours cleaning it, new hose and clamps from water tank to pump ($40) and a new water heater control board ($128) and I can easily double my money on this 5er!!
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/opie011/20140922_184937_zpseskf7rhd.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/opie011/media/20140922_184937_zpseskf7rhd.jpg.html)
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/opie011/IMG_2715_zpscypdugva.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/opie011/media/IMG_2715_zpscypdugva.jpg.html)
That thing definitely has the axle flip. Had any issues with it? I'm going to do it on mine because I need more ground clearance badly.
That thing definitely has the axle flip. Had any issues with it? I'm going to do it on mine because I need more ground clearance badly.
Only had it out once and going again here soon. So far I've towed it 300-400 miles and no issues. The spring hangers have 3" of adjustment and raised to the highest adjustment but, I'm thinking of lower it an inch as it sits pretty high at the moment.
jerrymrc
10-11-2014, 10:00
I like this one too!! No bunks but if it will work for you it seems like a good deal.
I just sold the exact same trailer. Very high build quality. Mine was an 01. 50 gal fresh water tank and that is unheard of for a 24' More like 5400 dry but they over built. I think the GVW is 10K so it can carry a lot. I used to take mine to the BCGC range. You will not be disappointed with that unit. And it tows like a dream.
Here is another you might be interested in
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4710449450.html
Yeah, I saw that one. The only thing I don't like is the table set up. No way to collapse it to a bed. We plan on kids so secondary bed options are a must. Bunks or a couch would be ideal.
Are 30 footers really bad for mountain camping? I found a nice one but it's 30 feet. It's not like my crew cab truck is going to fit into that many spots by itself but I've heard over 26' and you're going to have trouble finding places to fit.
Yeah you definitely will. Mine is 19' (23'4'' OAL) and I am putting on a lift to get more clearance because it doesn't get into one of my hunting spots without dragging.
i wouldn't go too overboard on length unless you are planning to have several people in there or lots of kids or spending a great deal of time in it. I love my trailer but when I go camping my whole idea is to be outside. It's just nice to have a good mobile shelter with a lot more of the amenities.
as far as parking, mine fits most anywhere on per made campsites. Easy to back in and maneuver with. 23' trailer (~27' OAL) is all the more I would want to go or I would run into problems fitting it spaces.
ruthabagah
10-13-2014, 15:57
Yeah, I saw that one. The only thing I don't like is the table set up. No way to collapse it to a bed. We plan on kids so secondary bed options are a must. Bunks or a couch would be ideal.
Are 30 footers really bad for mountain camping? I found a nice one but it's 30 feet. It's not like my crew cab truck is going to fit into that many spots by itself but I've heard over 26' and you're going to have trouble finding places to fit.
you want to be careful with anything over 27/28ft, because it tends to try to drive your tow vehicle.... In terms of camping spot, it's true that the smaller you go, the easier it is to not only find a good spot, but also, to position your rig in the right spot, within the spot!
To find the right size for you, do this mental test: close your eyes, imagine a camping trip starting on a friday night after work. Now imagine a dark national forrest campground at night, and your are trying to back into a spot, with pine trees / aspen all around and you are not sure exactly if the rock you saw in the middle of the spot is going to be too tall for your campers ground clearence..... Feel free to add to the picture: kids crying in the back seat, or hyperactive dog....
My advice: stay compact. Your camper is not a second home, it's a shelter / kitchen / bathroom.
Well...found the seemingly perfect camper...except the price is insane.
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4707249133.html
Emailed to see if he'd like to come back to reality.
jerrymrc
10-13-2014, 18:39
Well...found the seemingly perfect camper...except the price is insane.
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4707249133.html
Emailed to see if he'd like to come back to reality.
That "20'" Nash is almost 24'. Take a look at the pics of the "24'" splash and then the "20'" nash. The Splash is every bit as good as the nash. I know I wanted an Artic Fox for so long but people are proud of them.[Flower]
ruthabagah
10-13-2014, 18:47
Well...found the seemingly perfect camper...except the price is insane.
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4707249133.html
Emailed to see if he'd like to come back to reality.
These are great camper but they are heavy!
Well...found the seemingly perfect camper...except the price is insane.
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4707249133.html
Emailed to see if he'd like to come back to reality.
http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2000/Nash/M-20N/4044309/Values
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-13-2014, 19:26
I've been looking for a nice pop up as well. I'm blown away at how people are asking at least double what it's worth. They won't take cash offers rejecting such either.
http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2000/Nash/M-20N/4044309/Values
Yeah, thats the price range I was thinking. I didn't hear back from him yet but another couple months of it sitting may change his mind.
Well, ended up spending a bit more than I had planned but I got everything I was looking for and was in like brand new condition. It's a 23 ft (26 ft total), has a queen bed, bunk beds, dinette that can fit 6 and a overall good floor plan. Now time to try it out!
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-22-2014, 17:17
Pics?
http://images.craigslist.org/00e0e_3T08d3CZcau_600x450.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/00000_IvT8LYX6u6_600x450.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/01212_6C2KGX4H3OB_600x450.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/00Z0Z_aHIy6ylkjqN_600x450.jpg
http://images.craigslist.org/00r0r_7hQindhiMm4_600x450.jpg
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-22-2014, 18:38
Oh yeah man that's sweet! We've been looking at hybrids lately.
Thanks! We really like it. Got it for 25% under NADA too. Woot!
Those hybrids are neat! You can really get a lot of ammenities in a small package with those. I saw some with front or rear slides too. Same idea as the hybrids.
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-22-2014, 18:58
Yeah the one we like is on craigslist in roxbourogh park. She's asking $5800 firm. $4000 is the nada.
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-22-2014, 19:01
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4725678081.html
jerrymrc
10-22-2014, 19:28
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4725678081.html
Take a walk through that and you will change your mind. i rented an Aerolite from post the year we were between campers. it was a 22' and what a piece of crap. yes it was light but still a POS IMO.
hghclsswhitetrsh
10-22-2014, 19:33
Well I'm thankful for a first hand experience like yours jerry. We are looking for something in the 4-7.5 range. Really don't want a pop up but if it had a slide out we'd be my apt to buy it.
I browsed craigslist every day since I started this thread. I looked at a couple, emailed on a ton. It seems impossible to find one that didn't have a "minor" leak or hail damage. That or they were asking too much. The one I bought was a little more but I feel it was worth it. I received multiple paragraph replies about the condition. Not just a "it's good. No leaks" reply. Sent lots of pics. It was still a deal but my cost was a little more. I bet if you wait a little longer, prices will drop. That 4-7 range is the hunters category so every has their price jacked up.
Snowman78
10-22-2014, 20:53
Congrats on the new camper! Looks kick ass it is just like what my wife and I want. We need bunks because we have 3 kids.
ruthabagah
10-23-2014, 08:00
Congrats on the new camper! Looks great and I am glad you choose the "lighter" way. Enjoy.
ruthabagah
10-23-2014, 08:01
Take a walk through that and you will change your mind. i rented an Aerolite from post the year we were between campers. it was a 22' and what a piece of crap. yes it was light but still a POS IMO.
I second JerryMc Opiniion. Aerolite are not well build. Try a jayco, or a forest river made instead.
What's the general thought on covers? Ive heard mixed reviews on them Things like they're a pain to put on and take off, if they get loose, they'll flap and beat up the exterior of the trailer and moisture/humidity can get trapped in there.
I feel like it'd be worth it for the extended storage time during winter. Even to just keep water from squeezing into places and then freezing, causing issues. I know I have to get snow off the top after a heavy snowfall either way but seems like for a couple hundred bucks, it's worth it.
I have a cover on my camper and it has been good. The front does flap a little bit but nothing terrible. The water spots off the roof cut through the material a little bit so it has a few tears around those spots. This year I patched up everything I could hand sewing in some old denim from worn out jeans and that seems to be working well. I always park my trailer so it isn't perfectly level and the water and snow will roll/melt off and not stay sitting on there.
putting on the cover is a little bit of a pain. I just toss it on the roof, get on there and drape it over the sides then pull down carefully. Works well for me!
Can you put something like a basketball in the middle of the roof so there is at least a slight slope to help water and snow run off? That will make your cover more susceptible to hail with it being unsupported, but better the cover than the roof anyway.
The AC unit does a good job of creating a slope. That, any skylights and other protruding objects from the roof help dissipate water and alleviate potential hail damage. I put an AC cover on mine as well to keep moisture and bugs/critters out.
ruthabagah
10-23-2014, 13:10
What's the general thought on covers? Ive heard mixed reviews on them Things like they're a pain to put on and take off, if they get loose, they'll flap and beat up the exterior of the trailer and moisture/humidity can get trapped in there.
I feel like it'd be worth it for the extended storage time during winter. Even to just keep water from squeezing into places and then freezing, causing issues. I know I have to get snow off the top after a heavy snowfall either way but seems like for a couple hundred bucks, it's worth it.
I was told 11 years ago when I bought my forst camper that a cover was not a good idea here in CO, because it will "cook" your camper (if the wall are laminated, the wall may buckle, the silicone will drip) and trap the moisture instead of have it evaporate in our dry weather. I have never used one, but I have protected my roof with a large, heavy tarp a couple of winter, because my camper was stored outside under a tree.
Yeah, that cooking is what kind of worries me. Colorado gets a lot of "hot" winter days where it could heat up like crazy in there with a tarp on it, or so it would seem. I was thinking a big tarp with some good tie downs would be fine. Just cover the roof so no water drips down into the trailer.
Perhaps a temporary shade structure is more what you're after?
Well yeah, covered storage would be awesome but thats more money/all filled up. I dont think many storage lots will let you just put up a quick 10x26 canopy. Lol.
Great-Kazoo
10-23-2014, 14:59
Yeah, that cooking is what kind of worries me. Colorado gets a lot of "hot" winter days where it could heat up like crazy in there with a tarp on it, or so it would seem. I was thinking a big tarp with some good tie downs would be fine. Just cover the roof so no water drips down into the trailer.
We used a RV cover, breathable, waterproof (within reason) never an issue. Also use tarps. However we have some styrofoam pcs between the roof and tarp. This allows for moisture / snow run off AND , since a tarp is porous. You don't have water sitting between the tarp and roof freezing in winter, place for insects and funky residue during warmer weather.
Something like this should be fine, yeah?
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/designer-series-sfs-aqua-shed-travel-trailer-rv-cover-221-24/71086
The best thing a cover will do is help prevent UV fading/chalking of a gelcoat fiberglass exterior if stored outdoors. 303 Aerospace protectant (sunscreen for your stuff) helps when it's not covered. Helps slow chalking of EPDM roofs as well and keeps a lot of the windblown dirt off.
Compounding UV damaged gelcoat is not fun or inexpensive if using the best materials (3M stuff). Ask me how I know.
Great-Kazoo
10-23-2014, 19:32
Something like this should be fine, yeah?
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/designer-series-sfs-aqua-shed-travel-trailer-rv-cover-221-24/71086
Check.
Just throw one of these babies up ...
51191
:D
LOL! Oh man, I wish! Next house is going to have land where I can do that. 2-3 more years until that though. :(
So what do you guys do for power charging? Do you have a generator you bring? Solar hook up? I feel like it'd be nice to have both but I think a generator would be smarter to get first. Multiple uses besides just camping and it's more reliable than solar. Im going to put a quick disconnect on the battery for storage time.
That leads to the next question of how much wattage do you need? Seems like 3-4k would be ideal, just to be sure and to be able to use it at the home in case of an outage.
I would do one large enough to run your AC. Ideally, get one of the inverter type generators because they're quieter than standard generators and are better for the electronics. They're also more expensive though.
ruthabagah
10-27-2014, 12:00
So what do you guys do for power charging? Do you have a generator you bring? Solar hook up? I feel like it'd be nice to have both but I think a generator would be smarter to get first. Multiple uses besides just camping and it's more reliable than solar. Im going to put a quick disconnect on the battery for storage time.
That leads to the next question of how much wattage do you need? Seems like 3-4k would be ideal, just to be sure and to be able to use it at the home in case of an outage.
it really comes down to what you need electricity for.
If you plan to camp at lower elevations, love your AC, and cannot cook without a microwave oven, then a generator is what you need. If you are fine with no AC, plan to BBQ your food and only need to recharge small electronics, then solar is the way to go.
I have used both options, for long and short trip, but rarely use the AC. A generator is great to produce a lot of power quickly, but it's noisy, heavy, can take a lot of space and good ones tend to be expensive. Solar panel are light and once they are on your roof, you just forget them. They will produce everyday, all day, and cost next to nothing in maintenance. They won't run your AC though. But they are fine to recharge the camper battery and run small appliances. The cost of solar has dropped a lot lately, and you can get a couple of good panel, with a charge controller, for less than half of what a honda generator will cost you.
My first solar install, cost me 200$. 2 panel from harbour freight, 15w, 1 amp each, controller and wire, roof bracket. 2 h to install. These little panel would recharge the battery on an average day, and allowed the kids to plug in their tablets.
one more thing: if you do not have LED lights in your camper, invest in some replacement LED light bulb. Best investment ever!
Yeah, I was going to order some LED bulbs for inside. I think the final count was around 20 bulbs. Haha! Yeah, AC doesnt seem like it'd be that big of a deal for the mountain trips. It may only become necessary for lake trips to Kansas/Nebraska. I figured having a generator at the house isn't a bad thing anyways. Power outages and who knows what. I figure if Im going to buy a generator, might as well get one that can do more than just charge an ipad.
Solar + a second battery will be my first step though. Sounds like that'll be enough for 99% of the trips.
Also, can you build an sound deadening box to put over a generator? Help muffle the sound or will that make the generator run too hot?
ruthabagah
10-27-2014, 13:32
Also, can you build an sound deadening box to put over a generator? Help muffle the sound or will that make the generator run too hot?
In my experience, it will run too hot, and I would be concerned about the CO accumulating inside the box. Generator exhaust are...tiny.
One thing you can do: a lot of tool rental places, will rent a small generator for the week end. Try it, see if you need it. I did rent one for a week end camping last summer, it was 60$ for the week end.
Yeah, I was going to order some LED bulbs for inside. I think the final count was around 20 bulbs. Haha! Yeah, AC doesnt seem like it'd be that big of a deal for the mountain trips. It may only become necessary for lake trips to Kansas/Nebraska. I figured having a generator at the house isn't a bad thing anyways. Power outages and who knows what. I figure if Im going to buy a generator, might as well get one that can do more than just charge an ipad.
Solar + a second battery will be my first step though. Sounds like that'll be enough for 99% of the trips.
Also, can you build an sound deadening box to put over a generator? Help muffle the sound or will that make the generator run too hot?
There are camp quiet models. Cost a bit more, but appreciated by all including any neighbors.
jerrymrc
10-27-2014, 15:10
Except for the trips to the NRA center I always dry camped with solar. Stove and fridge used a 30lb bottle in a week. Never ran out of power and I had a TV and sat dish. Bulbs were LED.
I'm still figuring out my solar, but I do know generators.
buy an inverter generator. It will give you clean and stable power to plug sensitive electronics into.
2000W will run everything but the AC.
you need at least 2400W to run the AC and if you have anything else on at high altitude it may not start it. You will have to shut everything else off, then start the AC since it draws more to start, then power up other electronics.
3000W would be ideal as it will let you run everything, and start AC while running other things. A GEN in this size will weigh about 100 lbs so plan accordingly and expect to pay around $2k
2400W will run around $1400 or so.
honda or yamaha both have great reputations, very quiet, and will last forever. Will run around $1000ish for a 2000W version. They weigh about 50lbs fueled up and can be carried and moved around very easily.
now, I will throw a curveball and tell you that these can be run together with a like unit and a parallel cable to give you about 4000W. For that complete set up you will be about $2200 into it. But then if you were going to the mountains, you could run just one and save fuel and weight. And if you need AC then take both.
But for my final thought, I will tell you that after looking at all of this, I went to costco and bought a smarter tools 2000W inverter generator for $550. It has the exact same engine as the yamaha gen. Same capabilities with Eco mode, super quiet, can also be run in parallel which means you are only about $1300 into a dual unit setup. and since it is from costco you have a convenient place to backup that 5 year warranty.
ruthabagah
10-28-2014, 07:24
I'm still figuring out my solar, but I do know generators.
buy an inverter generator. It will give you clean and stable power to plug sensitive electronics into.
2000W will run everything but the AC.
you need at least 2400W to run the AC and if you have anything else on at high altitude it may not start it. You will have to shut everything else off, then start the AC since it draws more to start, then power up other electronics.
3000W would be ideal as it will let you run everything, and start AC while running other things. A GEN in this size will weigh about 100 lbs so plan accordingly and expect to pay around $2k
2400W will run around $1400 or so.
honda or yamaha both have great reputations, very quiet, and will last forever. Will run around $1000ish for a 2000W version. They weigh about 50lbs fueled up and can be carried and moved around very easily.
now, I will throw a curveball and tell you that these can be run together with a like unit and a parallel cable to give you about 4000W. For that complete set up you will be about $2200 into it. But then if you were going to the mountains, you could run just one and save fuel and weight. And if you need AC then take both.
But for my final thought, I will tell you that after looking at all of this, I went to costco and bought a smarter tools 2000W inverter generator for $550. It has the exact same engine as the yamaha gen. Same capabilities with Eco mode, super quiet, can also be run in parallel which means you are only about $1300 into a dual unit setup. and since it is from costco you have a convenient place to backup that 5 year warranty.
So well said this should be kept as the reference....Damn: this whole camper thread need to be kept as reference!
ruthabagah
05-01-2015, 14:10
Camping season is approaching!
Time to prep the camper for summer. I have some solar panels on their way from Amazon and will install them next weekend.
what do you do to your camper before the season starts?
Great-Kazoo
05-01-2015, 16:36
Camping season is approaching!
Time to prep the camper for summer. I have some solar panels on their way from Amazon and will install them next weekend.
what do you do to your camper before the season starts?
Drain anti-freeze from lines, flush then do a bleach disinfecting rinse of system. Pull battery off the tender, check for any damage done by small furry creatures. That fortunately we don't have an issue with, thanks to our dogs and numerous cats that wander the hood.
gnihcraes
05-01-2015, 20:34
What solar panels did you get, i need to order one or two for mine.
ruthabagah
05-01-2015, 22:13
What solar panels did you get, i need to order one or two for mine.
I was ready to buy a renogy kit with a 100w pannel, cable, charge controller and z bracket. But when i looked into the charge controller i realized it would be limited if i wanted to add more pannels. http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430589682&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+panel
Pannel http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4844F4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Controllerhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB3OPKM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And instead of z bracket, i am going to try thesehttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TTZSUYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Total so far= 250$.
With 100w 5.7a it should be enough to replenish the battery on an average day in colorado. If i can, i will probably add 200w by the summer (1 or 2 pannel). This should be enough to also recharge most electronics during the day and allow me to add an extra battery.
ruthabagah
05-02-2015, 08:05
Drain anti-freeze from lines, flush then do a bleach disinfecting rinse of system. Pull battery off the tender, check for any damage done by small furry creatures. That fortunately we don't have an issue with, thanks to our dogs and numerous cats that wander the hood.
Just wondering: why do you bleach the system?
Great-Kazoo
05-02-2015, 09:21
Just wondering: why do you bleach the system?
It's a bleach solution. Most if not all camper manuals have info for it within the Water Systems section.
We're concerned about bacteria in the water lines from sitting X time frame. WE don't like wasting water, however being sick when out camping over rules the water used. It's rare one does have issues with the water system however why chance it. Especially if one is out for a prolong period OR the SHTF and you're relying on that water supply (however brief it is)
It's 1/4 C. bleach to 1gal of water for every 15 gallons your system holds. pour solution on tank, let it sit 1/2hr then fill tank. Once filled run water through system. Sit for 3 hrs then flush system. If you have a chlorine taste after flushing th esystem 2x, you can use a white vinegar solution to remove said taste.
We don't drink the water from the onboard system. Use it to bath, wash dishes, and boil coffee. 99% we're camping at the lake with full hookup or maybe water/elec if we got unlucky.
ruthabagah
05-02-2015, 11:54
It's a bleach solution. Most if not all camper manuals have info for it within the Water Systems section.
We're concerned about bacteria in the water lines from sitting X time frame. WE don't like wasting water, however being sick when out camping over rules the water used. It's rare one does have issues with the water system however why chance it. Especially if one is out for a prolong period OR the SHTF and you're relying on that water supply (however brief it is)
It's 1/4 C. bleach to 1gal of water for every 15 gallons your system holds. pour solution on tank, let it sit 1/2hr then fill tank. Once filled run water through system. Sit for 3 hrs then flush system. If you have a chlorine taste after flushing th esystem 2x, you can use a white vinegar solution to remove said taste.
Good to know. i'll try
SamuraiCO
05-02-2015, 12:13
On my short list. Maybe next year I can pull the trigger on a camper.
Great-Kazoo
05-02-2015, 18:07
We don't drink the water from the onboard system. Use it to bath, wash dishes, and boil coffee. 99% we're camping at the lake with full hookup or maybe water/elec if we got unlucky.
All our drinking water is carried in. The holding tank is for washing , cooking etc. HOWEVER IF an event were to happen while camping, like a freak snow storm, mud or rock slide close off access. One must exist with on has. If you take care of a camper why skimp when it comes to the water system?
gnihcraes
05-02-2015, 21:35
I'll usually add some bleach and fully load the system, let it sit for a day or two and then flush it all back out again. Just because. Someone might drink it.
ruthabagah (https://www.ar-15.co/members/2516-ruthabagah) thanks for the info on the panels you're getting. I still need to figure this out sometime soon. I was hoping to get a canoe rack put on the camper, use that for the mounting points of the panel. (ham radio antennas and such too)
I need to add some USB ports to the inside of the camper too! So much to do... ugh.
Camping season is approaching!
Time to prep the camper for summer. I have some solar panels on their way from Amazon and will install them next weekend.
what do you do to your camper before the season starts?
As noted, water system maintenance. Also, clean/check/adjust burner on the water heater and refrigerator, check the furnace operation. Bubble check all the propane fittings. Water levels in the batteries as applicable. Tire condition and trailer brakes as applicable.
I put LED bulbs in all lights to help cut down on wattage.
ruthabagah
05-04-2015, 07:29
Just put my nose in the electrical system of my new camper to see where / how I can plug in my solar converter and found 1- one loose wire, 2- one screwdriver left over (not even a nice none), 3 - one hole in the camper floor with no calking..... Not happy with Forrest River right now.
Dang! That sucks! Better to find it now than while out in the woods though.
killianak9
05-04-2015, 09:33
Just put my nose in the electrical system of my new camper to see where / how I can plug in my solar converter and found 1- one loose wire, 2- one screwdriver left over (not even a nice none), 3 - one hole in the camper floor with no calking..... Not happy with Forrest River right now.
We bought a 323qb Forest River wildcat 5th wheel last year. Although I didn't find the issues like yours, they definitely don't do a very good job of prepping them for sale.
We had issues with finish work on kitchen cabinets and bathroom floors around our tub! Great Outdoors RV up in Greeley is a warranty center for our camper. We are having a issue on our front cap with stress cracks and fading- sorry back on topic!
Inspect water ,gas and AC system, and tires. At the Beginning and end of every season I wash and wax the unit too.
We bought a 323qb Forest River wildcat 5th wheel last year. Although I didn't find the issues like yours, they definitely don't do a very good job of prepping them for sale.
We had issues with finish work on kitchen cabinets and bathroom floors around our tub! Great Outdoors RV up in Greeley is a warranty center for our camper. We are having a issue on our front cap with stress cracks and fading- sorry back on topic!
Inspect water ,gas and AC system, and tires. At the Beginning and end of every season I wash and wax the unit too.
Spray them down with 303 Aerospace protectant too. If you're not using a UV blocking wax, the sun will chalk the fiberglass in short order.
Most higher end rigs now are all automotive paint finishes because of this. I wish we could find anothe rear kitchen 29-30' lightweight with automotive paint.
FWIW, our Cougar (formerly Keystone RV, now Thor) has had issues with a cracked frame and body-frame separation. Forest River probably has the biggest brand ownership out there.
Forest River:
(Brands) Coachmen, Dynamax, Forest River RV, Palomino RV, Prime Time Manufacturing, Shasta RV (A) Berkshire, Berkshire XL, Charleston, FR3, Georgetown, Georgetown XL, Legacy SR 340 (C) Forester, Lexington, Solera, Sunseeker (FW) Blue Ridge, Cardinal, Cedar Creek, Cedar Creek Silverback, Cherokee, Flagstaff Classic Super Lite, Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite, Salem, Salem Hemisphere, Sandpiper, Sandpiper Select, Sierra, Sierra Select, Surveyor, Wildcat, Wildcat Maxx, Wildwood, Wildwood Heritage Glen (TT) Cherokee, Cherokee Grey Wolf, Cherokee Wolf Pup, EVO, Flagstaff Classic Super Lite, Flagstaff Micro Lite, Flagstaff Shamrock, Flagstaff Super Lite, Flagstaff V-Lite, r-pod, Rockwood Mini Lite, Rockwood Roo, Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite, Rockwood Ultra Lite, Rockwood Windjammer, Salem, Salem Cruise Lite, Salem Hemisphere, Salem Ice Cabin, Sandpiper Select, Sierra Select, Surveyor, Vibe Extreme Lite, Wildcat Maxx, Wildwood, Wildwood Heritage Glen, Wildwood True North Ice Lodge, Wildwood X-Lite (FC) Flagstaff Tent ( Classic, Hard Side, High Wall, MAC ), Rockwood Tent ( Freedom, Hard Side, High Wall, Premier ) (TH) Cherokee Grey Wolf, Cherokee Wolf Pack, Cherokee Wolf Pup, Sandstorm, Shockwave, Stealth, Vengeance, Vengeance Touring Edition, Work and Play, Work and Play Catalyst, XLR Hyperlite, XLR Nitro, XLR Thunderbolt (PM) Cedar Creek Cottage, Cherokee Destination, Salem Villa, Sandpiper Destination, Sierra Destination, Wildwood Lodge
USMC88-93
05-04-2015, 20:57
Neighbors bought a used RV their first trip out a picture essay.
3 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png.html)
4 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png.html)
5 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png.html)
6 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png.html)
They should have bought a tow truck.
Poor bastards.
P.S. My brother let my 77 year old Mom and 83 year old Stepfather (4-24-15 - wow that's super weird now that I wrote it) buy a used big block gas guzzler. Grrr. They all live 1600 miles away so I was conspicuously out of the loop.
Great-Kazoo
05-04-2015, 21:00
Neighbors bought a used RV their first trip out a picture essay.
3 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png.html)
4 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png.html)
5 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png.html)
6 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png.html)
saw this "over there" waiting for the follow up
USMC88-93
05-04-2015, 21:04
saw this "over there" waiting for the follow up
He is paying for a new engine, cost will be reported when done. Believe he is still making the decision as to the source of new one.
Great-Kazoo
05-04-2015, 21:07
He is paying for a new engine, cost will be reported when done. Believe he is still making the decision as to the source of new one.
Jewish lightening cylinder repair ?
USMC88-93
05-04-2015, 21:10
Jewish lightening cylinder repair ?
I'm sorry but that reference traveled well above my head. Unless I understand it to mean throwing money at the problem.
Bailey Guns
05-05-2015, 06:05
We just picked up a used '03 Forest River 37' 5th wheel. It's in fantastic shape and everything works just fine. It's not for "camping"...we're gonna use it to temporarily live in while we look for a house once we make the move to the NW. We figured we'd stop in a place, check it out, move on if we don't find something we like.
It's our first really large trailer. We had a 28' Trail-Lite before. It was nice but the difference in room (with 3 slides) and creature comforts are like night and day. We've progressed in age to the point our "camper" is more of a base camp for visiting other places...not for out in the woods type camping. We almost always stop at a campground with hook-ups and the modern conveniences. The down side is this rig is heavy. I haven't pulled it yet but I can see where it could be a challenge in some places.
ruthabagah
05-05-2015, 07:23
We just picked up a used '03 Forest River 37' 5th wheel. It's in fantastic shape and everything works just fine. It's not for "camping"...we're gonna use it to temporarily live in while we look for a house once we make the move to the NW. We figured we'd stop in a place, check it out, move on if we don't find something we like.
It's our first really large trailer. We had a 28' Trail-Lite before. It was nice but the difference in room (with 3 slides) and creature comforts are like night and day. We've progressed in age to the point our "camper" is more of a base camp for visiting other places...not for out in the woods type camping. We almost always stop at a campground with hook-ups and the modern conveniences. The down side is this rig is heavy. I haven't pulled it yet but I can see where it could be a challenge in some places.
Nice. I have friends who partially retired last year, rented the house here in CO and they have been living in their 5th wheel since then. For him having a good internet connection is all he needs for work. They spend their winter in TX and Florida (where their children live) and are moving back north for the summer. He did mention that pulling a 5th wheel through OK and northern TX with a 40mph counterwind required a LOT of patience!
With the right rig and some patience you will do fine.
ruthabagah
05-07-2015, 07:25
And instead of z bracket, i am going to try these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TTZSUYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DON'T BUY THIS. I am returning them to Amazon today. Way too light for my taste... I would not trust them to hold my panel on the roof while driving down the highway...
Bummer, looks like a nice kit at first glance.
ruthabagah
05-07-2015, 10:31
Bummer, looks like a nice kit at first glance.
Yep... It's probably great for a boat or an install where it is not exposed to aerodynamic. Going back to Z Bracket.
rockhound
05-10-2015, 11:25
i have been pulling large trailers and travel trailers for the better part of 25 years. best advice is to get the biggest tow vehicle you can now (minimum 3/4 ton) if you enjoy it you will inevitably upgrade to a larger trailer, this leads to needing a larger truck, get that truck now and make the expense just once.
Neighbors bought a used RV their first trip out a picture essay.
3 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo_zpso8mfydxt.png.html)
4 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo1_zps9cosxvoc.png.html)
5 Days into trip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo2_zpsv87a8von.png.html)
6 Days into trip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/Friends%20caught%20on%20camera/jo3_zpsb5szkfos.png.html)
When we bought our first used RV, we did several short overnight trips before heading out on a vacation. It helped out some, more with familiarity than mechanical, but we never needed a tow truck.
We had probably 700-800 miles on it before our first extended trip.
We experienced some minor mech issues over the several years we ran it, but we were never stranded.
We thought it was a good idea, but YMMV.
I will add to my previous post that if they like the cabin layout, and the only issues are drive-train related, the engine swap is likely the most equitable solution.
My opinion, and I'm sure others will vary.
Hope they get it worked out and enjoy their travels.
gnihcraes
05-10-2015, 19:13
DON'T BUY THIS. I am returning them to Amazon today. Way too light for my taste... I would not trust them to hold my panel on the roof while driving down the highway...
thanks for the info. I haven't purchased it yet. I'll probably do a normal metal z bracket. Bolt the panel to the camper.
ruthabagah
05-10-2015, 21:50
thanks for the info. I haven't purchased it yet. I'll probably do a normal metal z bracket. Bolt the panel to the camper.
Z brackets are the way to go if you have a standart rubber roof. I was able to fix the pannel on the roof in 15 min including prep time. Don't forget to order a good roof sealant!
How are you guys wiring the panel in? Do you still a hole or keep the wires outside direct to the battery or where does all the rest of the stuff go? Need to figure out the solar stuff as I would like to install a single panel on mine. I have one of those little ones that Is 5w and it keeps one of the batteries topped off if not in use but won't charge, just kind of my tender while it sits and even then the little bit of draw from the camper still pulls it down a little bit.
ruthabagah
05-11-2015, 07:39
How are you guys wiring the panel in? Do you still a hole or keep the wires outside direct to the battery or where does all the rest of the stuff go? Need to figure out the solar stuff as I would like to install a single panel on mine. I have one of those little ones that Is 5w and it keeps one of the batteries topped off if not in use but won't charge, just kind of my tender while it sits and even then the little bit of draw from the camper still pulls it down a little bit.
Yeah the 5w ones will only trickle charge a battery but are not enough for a deep cycle battery to be repleted.
I did 5 install (2 of mine and helped 3 friends) and, Except if you have a pop up camper, the easiest way down from the roof is through the fridge vent. Installing the panel on the roof is the easy part, deciding where to run the wire and actually running them can be a frustrating job....
Each time, I choose to bypass the electrical panel in the camper and directly feed the battery. It is more wire, but at the end if is easier to add a shut off switch for the panel if you decide to do so, and less complexity.
So basically my schema look like this: Panel, wire to charge controller running from the roof, through the fridge vent, Charge controller installed somewhere near the fridge, but not too visible BECAUSE THEY PUT SOME BRIGHT FRAKING LED LIGHT ON THEM AND THEY CAN FLASH IN YOUR FACE ALL NIGHT! Run another set of wire from the controller directly to the battery (for these, I usually go down, through the floor and under the frame). Add a shut off switch (could be any kind of car switch) just before the battery.
Your next question will be: "why do i need a shut off switch?" I personally remove my battery in winter, and I prefer to have my battery connector inert when there is no need to recharge anything.
Please note / disclaimer: This will work fine for a less than 10 amp install. Over 10 amp, you will most likely need beefier parts and/or will need to connect your panel to your camper electrical panel.
Finally: Installing panel on a brand new pop up camper was a mess and I will never do it again.... 1- the roof was not flat: we had to use 2 different size of z braket to create a angle for the panel so that it would not shake at moderate highway speed. 2- had to drill a hole through the roof to pass the wires (voiding the warranty) 3- what do you do with wires on a pop up roof? That look tacky, until a few week later, when my friend found and ordered some telephone cord look alike electrical wire (he pay a SHITLOAD of money for these).
De you have to drill through the roof to install the z brackets?
ruthabagah
05-11-2015, 13:24
Not through the roof. Short Stainless Steel screw through the upper plywood layer of the roof. (For my 2 install, the roof was a "sandwich" of plywood and foam covered by a "rubber" layer).
One tip I learned: Mount your z bracket on your panel, position the panel on the roof (not too close to an ac unit or anything that can create some shade), mark with a sharpie where your bracket are / touch the roof, remove panel with bracket and where the marks are, make a large cone shape with roof sealant. Set the panel's bracket in the middle of the sealant. screw the bracket to the roof. This should not only act as a weather seal, but also act as an adhesive to keep your bracket stuck on the roof.
One more thing: Do NOT use cheap silicon, get a real RV roof sealant. Silicon is NOT UV resistant.
Great info! just need to figure out which panel I want now
Well we went to Moab over the weekend and took the camper. We stayed in an RV park which was nice for the first trip. Made me realize how fast the tanks fill up (more so the grey). No big deal with hook ups but will definitely have to watch it while dry camping. It was very nice having a camper to come back to after a day of ATVing. Also made a list of stuff we wish we had or wanted to add before the next trip.
ruthabagah
05-27-2015, 12:08
Yep the grey tank will fill fast if you do not adjust your water usage in a camper.
Basic rules when we go dry camping:
* brush your teeth without running the water in the sink
* run the shower to get yourself wet, then to rinse.
* want an extra shower? Use the exterior shower on the camper with the eco friendly soap
* use some paper plates, paper cups, aluminum trays and only wash the utensil. Dish washing is water intensive. You can start a fire with paper plates (check the label first to see what they are made of), and the rest you pack out.
Finally, I used to have a grey water tote (http://www.adventurerv.net/thetford-smart-tote-tank-2wheel-model-gallon-p-8946.html). this was convenient, but required a lot of storage room either on board or in the tow vehicle.
^Yup. All good rules there. My wife is a life time camper girl but we didn't really pay attention since we had hook ups. It was a good trial run. I'd like to add some solar next even though I have a generator. Be nice to not have to run that out in the woods.
Oh and the Duramax hauled it like a champ. 13 mpg on the way out, 11.5 on the way back. 65-70 mph up the backside of Vail pass, no problem. I just need a bigger tank so I don't have to fuel up so much. :(
Get a garden hose adapted cap that fits the large outflow line. Put a short section of garden hose on it and occasionally you release the grey water. If you are in an area with people watching just fill a bucket and carry into the woods to dump. It is just soapy water and does not kill anything and it's not hazardous to anyone.
colorider
05-27-2015, 22:43
We camp a lot in the summer. Have a 20 foot travel trailer, but it has a 55gal fresh water tank. NICE size tank for a small trailer and only wife, me and a 9yr old. We love to conserve as much water as possible so we can take nice showers every day.! I get mighty filthy and stinky riding the dirt bike all day. We use paper plates for eating. We have several dozen forks, knife, spoons. We use them once, than toss them in the "dirty dishes bag". Brush teeth outside the trailer using bottled water. Spit in the camp fire. any plastic bowls or plates we use, we use once. Clear the plate in the fire, put in the dirty dishes bag. Cast iron gets cleaned after use using.. well, its cast iron. Wipe clean. Get home and put all the silverware in the dishwasher along with any pots/ pans that need it. Put back in trailer. Walla, lots of water saved!!!
Great-Kazoo
05-27-2015, 22:55
When we camped, we saved water by using a Luggable Loo. I had one couple outraged we were using a plastic bucket instead of the one in the camper. You do realize the only difference is the place waste ends up, right? PLUS we use no water for solids, pay a dump site fee and once sealed is biodegradable . While you have to buy "special" TP, and waste water to flush.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=JN.D5ijqfOSNaKUmh0ZDljW0g&pid=15.1&P=0
All utensils are disposable, almost every food item is pre-cooked (except eggs) seal a meal frozen, then as things defrost eat. Saves on ice, gives one more room int he coolers, less food prep, concerns about cross contamination etc . Like colorider, any non disposable utensils & cook ware is wiped then cleaned, once home.
Outside the water heater we keep X amount of water buckets outside, utilizing the sun for hot water. Along with one of those solar shower bags.
ruthabagah
05-28-2015, 07:46
When we camped, we saved water by using a Luggable Loo. I had one couple outraged we were using a plastic bucket instead of the one in the camper. You do realize the only difference is the place waste ends up, right? PLUS we use no water for solids, pay a dump site fee and once sealed is biodegradable . While you have to buy "special" TP, and waste water to flush.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=JN.D5ijqfOSNaKUmh0ZDljW0g&pid=15.1&P=0
Way too comfy for me
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ruthabagah
05-31-2015, 12:21
Finally finished with the solar installation on my camper. Started a month ago but because of work and weather I just finished 10 min ago.586605866158662
it was a lot more work on this one because there was almost no available space behind the fridge to run the wires. I had to remove the fridge vent completely (there is a non removable screen on top to avoid getting bugs and leaves behind the fridge) and runs flexible conduit to avoid having electrical rubbing with the back of the fridge components> Getting about 4amp right now, which is expected since the panel is flat and not pointing at the sun. The charge controller should give me a 24h report tomorrow as to how many amp/h were generated.
Very cool! I definitely need to get off my butt and do this!
gnihcraes
05-31-2015, 16:33
ordered up my stuff a couple days ago. I'll get started on my setup once it arrives. (100 watt panel, charge controller etc)
this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431743341&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+solar+panels
ruthabagah
05-31-2015, 17:22
ordered up my stuff a couple days ago. I'll get started on my setup once it arrives. (100 watt panel, charge controller etc)
this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431743341&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+solar+panels
Good choice. did you upgrade for the LCD charge controller or took the standard one? The one that come with the package is fine, but limited if you want to add more panel down the line. I did the same thing, returned the one to renogy and they send me a replacement the same day.
Now what you need to complete this:
* Roof sealant (I use a LOT so I usually order 2 of them) : http://www.amazon.com/Products-017-187690-Sikaflex-Roof-Sealant/dp/B00NBPZ90C/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1433113395&sr=8-10&keywords=sikaflex
* Cable Clamp: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-PPC-1538UVB-Cable-8-Inch/dp/B002YDYT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433113498&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+cable+clamp
* If you don't have one, I would strongly suggest a long drill bit (In a camper the connections are often all bunched up behind panels and other. This will allow you to drill with a lot a clearance around other connections/electrical) : http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-39106-8-Inch-18-Inch-Installer/dp/B00004YO6E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1433113578&sr=8-3&keywords=long+drill+bit
* depending on the length of your camper, 30 to 50 ft of 12 gauge electrical cable to go from the charge controller to the battery (if you choose to do it this way) less if you plug directly in the fuse box.
* stainless self drilling screws. I have used them for all my built and they work great.
* Ring terminal connector to connect to your battery.
Not required, but if you have one, or can borrow one, it will help a lot for running the wire: Inspection Camera. Again, I have found that neatly tucked behind a panel you could find anything and the unexpected.... Electrical, plumbing, gas line.... Just like in a house but probably worse.
ruthabagah
05-31-2015, 17:24
Very cool! I definitely need to get off my butt and do this!
Do it Man, Do it. Nice project and totally worth it. It will also add value to your camper if you decide to sell it.
Overall time to completion 4 h. And that was because I had to reroute my electrical around the fridge, instead of a direct drop from the fridge vent.
I have always used, and would recommend Dicor over Sika. I love Sika products for their polyurethane concrete joint fillers, but IMHO, EPDM roofs should be done with Dicor.
YMMV
http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Rubber-Sealant-White-501LSW-1/dp/B004A2YKWI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1433115267&sr=8-3&keywords=dicor
Always handy to have a little on hand if you have a habit of dragging your rig through any trees. Hell, some of the older improved campgrounds we go to it's easy to snag a tree and tear/cut the EPDM roof when you're trying to make that tight corner with a 30+ 5th wheel.
gnihcraes
05-31-2015, 18:58
Good choice. did you upgrade for the LCD charge controller or took the standard one? The one that come with the package is fine, but limited if you want to add more panel down the line.
I did upgrade the controller I believe, can't remember now. (edit, just looked, no I took the default controller, i can upgrade later)
I'm working with a popup camper, and might not even mount this to the roof. (for now anyways) I'll just stick the panel in the camper while traveling and then set it up once camped.
Thanks for the other information, sealant and offer of the camera. I'm not sure what I'll do, since working with the popup, I have multiple points of entry into the camper without hitting lines and such, especially if I don't go through the roof. I was originally going to get the boat rack for the top of the camper and then use that as the mounting point of the panel(s). I'm getting on a short time frame and might not have time to get all the things done I want for now.
gnihcraes
05-31-2015, 19:15
oh, i also ordered two of these, I will mount one on each end of the camper so we can keep cell phones and such items charged up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3I1NZW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
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Any reason not to buy a portable kit like this:
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_272&products_id=2748
I understand the convenience of hard wiring and roof mounted but I like the idea of being able to park under the trees and place the panel in the sun, where ever that may be. Also no drilling into the roof.
gnihcraes
05-31-2015, 21:31
That is what I current
Y do, set the panel out in the sun. Still experimenting with what I like to do. My camping setup is also a bug out or SHTF setup. I try to cover all bases with how thing get setup.
My new rig came pre wired for solar! Just add the panel which plugs into a port by the front storage door. I personally run a Yamaha ef3000iseb generator. I've added a few personal touches to it including a 3" lift (will be here Tuesday)....it has Dexter Torflex torsion axles so no leaf springs.
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/opie011/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/opie011/media/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg.html)
ruthabagah
05-31-2015, 22:24
Any reason not to buy a portable kit like this:
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_272&products_id=2748
I understand the convenience of hard wiring and roof mounted but I like the idea of being able to park under the trees and place the panel in the sun, where ever that may be. Also no drilling into the roof.
One major reason for me: my first ever solar panel (cheap harbor freight 15w) was stolen one day in a national forest campground... if it aint bolted, somebody will steal it.
ruthabagah
05-31-2015, 22:26
My new rig came pre wired for solar! Just add the panel which plugs into a port by the front storage door. I personally run a Yamaha ef3000iseb generator. I've added a few personal touches to it including a 3" lift (will be here Tuesday)....it has Dexter Torflex torsion axles so no leaf springs.
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/opie011/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/opie011/media/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg.html)
Nice rig! That's a lot of roof space for some serious solar power.
My new rig came pre wired for solar! Just add the panel which plugs into a port by the front storage door. I personally run a Yamaha ef3000iseb generator. I've added a few personal touches to it including a 3" lift (will be here Tuesday)....it has Dexter Torflex torsion axles so no leaf springs.
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/opie011/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/opie011/media/20150527_171819_zpsqti96biz.jpg.html)
Did it come factory with the McD's sign or was that aftermarket?
Nice rig! That's a lot of roof space for some serious solar power.
I could fit some good sized panels up there! Also, every interior light is LED [Awesom]
Did it come factory with the McD's sign or was that aftermarket?
Not necessarily aftermarket just an upgrade!
There were two motor homes in that lot (HWY 119 and I-25), reminded me of Eddie's RV from Christmas Vacation....shi++ers full. It was comical, they were parked bumper to bumper with one running a generator with an extension cord out their windows feeding power to the other camper. Oh and when the wind picked up, smelt like a sewage plant as one of them had a cracked and leaking sewer drain dripping onto the ground.
Great-Kazoo
06-01-2015, 08:16
I could fit some good sized panels up there! Also, every interior light is LED [Awesom]
Not necessarily aftermarket just an upgrade!
There were two motor homes in that lot (HWY 119 and I-25), reminded me of Eddie's RV from Christmas Vacation....shi++ers full. It was comical, they were parked bumper to bumper with one running a generator with an extension cord out their windows feeding power to the other camper. Oh and when the wind picked up, smelt like a sewage plant as one of them had a cracked and leaking sewer drain dripping onto the ground.
Covers up that meth lab smell.
ruthabagah
06-01-2015, 19:50
Power report after 24h (ok, more like 29h...) 5 amp / h. Not bad, actually pretty good, considering it was not a full sunny day. That's 40/45 amp reload on an average day. I calculated last year that on an average night (light, heater blower) I was dropping about 15 amp (25 if it was a cold night) my current setup should more than replenish the battery in half a day and give me some margin for an overcast day.
I am planning to add another panel soon, and will be able to add one more deep cycle battery, to give us plenty of reserve to recharge small electronics and run the TV/DVD completely of grid and without a generator.
Total money spend so far less than 250$. One more panel, connectors, one deep cycle battery, one battery tray = 250$
What size (amp hour) battery are you running?
gnihcraes
06-04-2015, 18:00
Well, the 100 watt panel and controller showed up a bit ago. Inside the box, everything is soaked and covered in black mold. WTF. Box outside though doesn't appear to have been wet, must be humidity of where they are storing the stuff or something.
Panel appears to be ok, haven't checked the controller yet. Maybe later tonight. I'm still waiting on the extra long solar cables and the mounting brackets.
Two orders today from amazon, both have had some issue with them. ugh.
ruthabagah
06-05-2015, 06:24
Well, the 100 watt panel and controller showed up a bit ago. Inside the box, everything is soaked and covered in black mold. WTF. Box outside though doesn't appear to have been wet, must be humidity of where they are storing the stuff or something.
Panel appears to be ok, haven't checked the controller yet. Maybe later tonight. I'm still waiting on the extra long solar cables and the mounting brackets.
Two orders today from amazon, both have had some issue with them. ugh.
That sucks! Take pictures and contact them, they will overnight a replacement.
gnihcraes
06-06-2015, 20:30
update; controller appears to be fine, panel works, so I'll just keep it and install it, i'm running out of time to get a lot of stuff done!
I wish it would stop raining for a few days, I need to pop up the camper and get some wiring done! I don't need the whole thing soaked and pack it back up so the mold starts eating the canvas. :(
gnihcraes
06-21-2015, 16:58
CRUTCH!
At this time I've decided to not mount the solar panel on the camper, I'll just set it up outside. I can move it around if needed then and keep the camper in a shady spot if possible.
I was looking for something in the garage to make a set of legs to tilt the solar panel, well...
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ruthabagah
06-21-2015, 17:19
CRUTCH!
At this time I've decided to not mount the solar panel on the camper, I'll just set it up outside. I can move it around if needed then and keep the camper in a shady spot if possible.
I was looking for something in the garage to make a set of legs to tilt the solar panel, well...
59137
lol. Brillant.
I did dry camp for the second time this week-end at twin lakes and with the amount of sun we had I was able to not only recharge the battery, recharge the phones / ipad, and get enough juice to recharge the "campground neighbor's" battery. Poor soul bought a harbor freight generator.... The thing nearly exploded on friday evening after 2 hours of bothering the whole campground at diner time..... I thought the guy was a jerk, but he just ended up to be ok, shared a couple of beers with me and his wife made a killer peach cobbler on saturday. He is returning the geni and ordering some panel.
What size (amp hour) battery are you running?
Anyone? What size battery with those 100 w panels?
ruhabagah, are you also using a 100 w panel?
Grant H.
06-21-2015, 20:00
Your panel doesn't really drive the size of your battery, Irving.
Figure out how many amps you will be drawing.
Then, how many days without sun do you need to support that draw.
Try to plan to never go past 50% discharge.
Buy your battery accordingly.
Rough guess for what it sounds like you guys are shooting for on the campers, I wouldn't run anything less than 100ah. I would actually suggest 2x of the Duracell SLICG110 batteries wired in series. Ends up being about 50% of the cost of a 12V deep cycle, and they handle the constant up and down better (in our experience)(We have solar arrays here, Wyoming, and ND, and not a single on has failed).
ETA:
Batteries Plus usually has those duracells in stock.
Helpful tool for all this kind of stuff, it may have already been posted, but I refer to it when I need a quick set of numbers. It's not perfect, but it will ball park stuff pretty well.
Solar Calculator
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/solar-calculator.html
I'm asking what size battery they are using. However, given what you've assumed, it seems like everything drives everything a bit.
ruthabagah
06-21-2015, 20:03
Anyone? What size battery with those 100 w panels?
ruhabagah, are you also using a 100 w panel?
Bueller? Sorry did not see your previous question: Yes 100w panel and the battery is 550/690/140 SRM24 type. Not my favorite, but it'll do until I can change it for an AGM or 2-6V deep cycle.
gnihcraes
06-21-2015, 21:36
Battery I'm using is a BCI GROUP NUMBER: 27 deep cycle from Checker/O Reilley auto parts. My research on the internet said that their deep cycle battery was made by Deka. Which should be a good battery. The previous one I had was original to the camper, InterState Deep cycle, lasted 6 years. We camp a couple times a year, only a few times have I needed the heater all night long and the battery kept up.
I'll confirm the size/amp hour of mine tomorrow. But I'm just using the solar panel to replenish whatever we used during the night. The panel in good sun should put back into the battery at ~ 5 amps an hour. That's a decent charge.
gnihcraes
06-21-2015, 21:49
Thanks guys.
welcome, anytime!
gnihcraes
07-19-2015, 20:37
Update to my setup:
Just spent three nights, 3.5 days out with the family in the camper. Bowhunter Jamboree, with about 1000 other campers.
I swapped out a couple of Bulbs in the camper for some LED 1141 bulbs, Dome lights. They work very well, nice and bright. I need to change out two more so they are all LED.
I used my home made LED light strips, they worked well inside and outside the camper. I forgot to take pictures, but they light up everything. Can't miss my camper among all the others.
We ended up using the camper furnace/heater because the afamily was cold during the night. It was in the 40's each night. I ran out of propane early sunday morning, had to jump out and switch tanks. Brrrrrr
Solar setup worked well. New 100 watt panel, new charge controller that I mounted inside a ridged tool box from home depot. Put Power pole connectors on the outside; Panel In, Battery Charge out, Battery load from controller. The toolbox worked great, gave me a awesome place to store all the camper and solar cables I might need.
I was able to charge the battery back up in a couple hours. (according to the charge controller indicators)
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Tons of comments from other campers. Wow, how well does it work? That thing doesn't make any noise huh! (Generators running all over the place at this event) Since we're in a popup, we really didn't have a reason for a generator, no big refrigerator, water heater, tv's. No inverter, just charging up the main battery each day.
I installed a USB and DC cig plug port into the camper before leaving. Everyone was able to charge up their cell phones and kindles the entire time we were there. Now I know where to install a 2nd and 3rd charge port because of location/people/cord issues.
The wife downloaded a movie to her kindle before leaving home and we watched that friday night. Small screen, but we all can huddle around and watch it.
View from our location looking south towards Buena Vista.
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ruthabagah
07-21-2015, 07:51
Nice setup.
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