View Full Version : Longevity of Duracoated Barrel
How well does Duracoat work on barrels? Is it going to "bubble up" with the heat produced or is the binding process fairly permanent?
FYI - I don't expect to be dumping one Beta-Mag after another but I would like to be able to run the barrel fairly hot (between 600 and 800 degrees).
DuraCoat is NOT durable enough for me, and the only barrels I have ever got that hot belonged to the Army :). 600F will fry your barrel and it is almost impossible to get that hot unless you are doing FA mag dumps. But if that is the T you want, you are better off with CeraKote, and if the expense is too High, AlumaHydeII.
lead_magnet
11-03-2014, 15:53
Flat black paint for charcoal grills works pretty good.
...and if the expense is too High, AlumaHydeII.
I like the idea of the Cerakote but it looks like the metal prepping is a lot more crucial than with Duracoat. This is a project that I would like to do myself (just to say that I did it).
I have seen the AlumaHyde sold under the Brownell's brand. In your opinion, is it a better alternative than Duracoat.
Yes. You could not pay me to have DuraCoat applied to one of my firearms. I apply AlumaHydeII to firearms, including my own, often. Certainly not CeraKote, Bluing, IC, or VDC type coatings, but pretty good.
If you want to stop by the shop with a piece of scrap, you are more than welcome to try some.
Flat black paint for charcoal grills works pretty good.
I second this motion. Cheap, easy to find at any hardware store, and you can always just touch it up if it wears off or gets scratched.
I like the idea of the Cerakote but it looks like the metal prepping is a lot more crucial than with Duracoat. This is a project that I would like to do myself (just to say that I did it).
I have seen the AlumaHyde sold under the Brownell's brand. In your opinion, is it a better alternative than Duracoat.
Metal prep is crucial for any finish if you want it to last.. As for DIY I have cerakoted several rifles in my kitchen using nothing but a Preval sprayer and the kitchen oven to bake. Metal prep consisted of media blasting followed by parkerizing (no oil). The following weekend I gave the parkerized parts a bath in alcohol to be sure all dirt and oils had been removed and then went on to the spraying process.
sent from a soup can and some string..
mcantar18c
11-03-2014, 18:19
Rustoleum High Temp Engine Enamel. Done and done.
Rustoleum High Temp Engine Enamel. Done and done.
What kind of primer do you use? I need to repaint my wood stove and want to do a better job this time.
mcantar18c
11-03-2014, 20:03
What kind of primer do you use? I need to repaint my wood stove and want to do a better job this time.
Generally if I'm using a rattle can, its cause its something that's gonna get beat up... and thus I generally don't care enough to hit it with primer. The can probably recommends one.
That said, the engine enamel needs to be heat cured, which I usually do (not on most gun parts though).
Have you seen this?
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/bbq-and-stove
Cerakote all the way, I've done duracoat myself (to say I did) and had cerakote done by the pros and definetly can tell the difference In quality.
jerrymrc
11-03-2014, 21:03
Metal prep is crucial for any finish if you want it to last.. As for DIY I have cerakoted several rifles in my kitchen using nothing but a Preval sprayer and the kitchen oven to bake. Metal prep consisted of media blasting followed by parkerizing (no oil). The following weekend I gave the parkerized parts a bath in alcohol to be sure all dirt and oils had been removed and then went on to the spraying process.
sent from a soup can and some string..
I will agree. I have stuff that I did in Duplicolor 1200 high heat that has stood the test of time. It is all in the prep. [Flower]
Great-Kazoo
11-03-2014, 21:09
Generally if I'm using a rattle can, its cause its something that's gonna get beat up... and thus I generally don't care enough to hit it with primer. The can probably recommends one.
That said, the engine enamel needs to be heat cured, which I usually do (not on most gun parts though).
Have you seen this?
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/bbq-and-stove
I used an acid etching spray primer, then bomb can bbq black.
I use the AlumaHydeII over park on all my A.K.s and it holds up greaAfter spraying it on and baking it in the oven I let it sit and cure for a week and it's tough as nails.
I've had the barrel hot enough to get the handguards smoking and it held on without ant bubbling or ill efects
Generally if I'm using a rattle can, its cause its something that's gonna get beat up... and thus I generally don't care enough to hit it with primer. The can probably recommends one.
That said, the engine enamel needs to be heat cured, which I usually do (not on most gun parts though).
Have you seen this?
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/bbq-and-stove
Check out page 5 and 6 here: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/116565-I-made-a-barrel-stove/page6?highlight=barrel+stove
mcantar18c
11-03-2014, 22:12
Check out page 5 and 6 here: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/116565-I-made-a-barrel-stove/page6?highlight=barrel+stove
I don't know how I've missed that thread all this time. That's really neat.
So it says high heat, was the BBQ stuff I linked to or the engine enamel? Or the ceramic engine enamel?
I haven't tried the BBQ stuff, but I've had good experiences with both enamels.
You linked to the BBQ stuff. I think I'd go the enamel route next time. The BBQ stuff was really soft. If you used it on a gun barrel, it'd rub/scratch off before you ever made it to the range!
tim-adams
11-03-2014, 22:32
so
cerakote (I watched a few vid on this, it take some serious prep)
or
AlumaHydeII (does this need primer or just clean it up and spray it on? does it add size?)
or
acid etch primer and engine enamel?
mcantar18c
11-03-2014, 22:49
You linked to the BBQ stuff. I think I'd go the enamel route next time. The BBQ stuff was really soft. If you used it on a gun barrel, it'd rub/scratch off before you ever made it to the range!
Give the enamel a try... the ceramic insulates a little better, which may or may not help you. Do the heat curing cycles that it specifies though, it really makes a difference in the durability.
FWIW, the flat black color (enamel, non ceramic) is almost an exact match to a Daniel Defense barrel.
so
cerakote (I watched a few vid on this, it take some serious prep)
or
AlumaHydeII (does this need primer or just clean it up and spray it on? does it add size?)
or
acid etch primer and engine enamel?
AlumaHydeII , no need for primer.You can clean up and spray on.Bake in oven at 350 for 3 hrs,let it cool down and let it sit and cure for a couple of days.
On a side note if you plan on doing AlumaHydeII be sure to get extra spray nozzles-they clog up fairly fast.
And yes it does add size,depending on how much you spray on.
The choice is yours on what you want to do.
All the mentioned methods work.it's just what do you feel comfortable doing and what your budget is.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.