View Full Version : Recommend me a brake
I currently run the stock savage brake on my LR rig. I had planned to do a QD suppressor but that ideas funding has been reallocated. I am looking to get a better brake though. I am getting more rise out of mine than I would like. I was looking at the JP brake. Anyone have any advice or brands to look into? I apologize in advance to my fellow Raton and Pueblo shooters...
This is my current setup
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/01/032fb5c81c7b6e7b7f021ac3e3ded4e9.jpg
JP?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/01/fb3607b63e1cd905185588c37e88d128.jpg
Bentsight
02-01-2015, 14:31
Add 2-3 gas ports at the 12:00 position on your current brake???
XC700116
02-01-2015, 14:36
Why not just get the TBAC CB brake, and a thread protector, that way when you have the money for the can, you already have the brake. It sounded like it performed just as well as the JP brakes on Stew's guns.
Good idea about the TBAC , I'll look into it as well. Little more expensive than the JP. No gas ports on the top though? I'd rather not drill mine ... Doesn't look like a lot of metal left in that area already to play with. Does the TBAC come with thread protector or is that extra too?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/01/bd553ff3c4208d9661b5cff5943bc97e.jpg
mcantar18c
02-01-2015, 15:27
I had an OPS Inc. brake (the non-suppressor one) on my .300WM. It had less felt recoil than my buddie's .308 with no muzzle device on it.
http://www.opsinc.us/muzzle-brakes.html
Talk to fellow board member Skullybones. He makes custom brakes up in Divide. Loved mine on my 6.5x284.
Dinosdeuce
02-01-2015, 16:20
Check out Hawkins Precision. Made in Colorado Springs
XC700116
02-01-2015, 18:52
Good idea about the TBAC , I'll look into it as well. Little more expensive than the JP. No gas ports on the top though? I'd rather not drill mine ... Doesn't look like a lot of metal left in that area already to play with. Does the TBAC come with thread protector or is that extra too?
Thread Protector is extra
zimagold
02-01-2015, 19:40
I have a TBAC CB brake on my 7mm Rem Mag, works quite well. Haven't splurged for the thread protector yet, they were out of stock when I bought the brakes.
TheBelly
02-01-2015, 20:27
i've got the surefire pro-comp on my 16" .308, and it's really effective.
My .260 has a Ross Schuler brake on it that will rattle the shell off a tortoise.
For .223 I use a Nordic brake and OSS Tech Bannar Alpha.
Then there's the suppressors.
The Ross Schuler looks really nice... What's the price on it I don't see any on the web page and do they only come polished? How much extra work did you need to do to fit it?
Most effective brakes I've ever used - and only $45.
http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/Home_Page.php
This is the Ross Schuler design - friend of his makes them and will install (time and blend) for a reasonable fee.
Effective = Loud.
TheBelly
02-01-2015, 23:51
The Ross Schuler looks really nice... What's the price on it I don't see any on the web page and do they only come polished? How much extra work did you need to do to fit it?
I used a JP Jamnut to put mine on. I don't want to mess around with shims or crush washers.
Talk to fellow board member Skullybones. He makes custom brakes up in Divide. Loved mine on my 6.5x284.
Yup. Thats the route I would go. Dynamic Resistance. Unless you have a Thunderbeast can in your future.
Sent them a message, on there website it says it "These will have no wrench flats and
need to be timed and tapered to mate to the barrel." So I assume I can't install this myself like the JP?
Delfuego
02-02-2015, 10:04
My Dynamic Resistance brake works great! Skullybones is a good guy and can take care of you. I would wait for him to get back with you about the details.
TheBelly
02-02-2015, 11:50
Sent them a message, on there website it says it "These will have no wrench flats and
need to be timed and tapered to mate to the barrel." So I assume I can't install this myself like the JP?
http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPJN.58B.750
use a wrench to tighten the jam nut, and a cleaning rod to keep the brake from turning while you tighten the jam nut.
I was talking about skullybones' brake. The JP looks pretty straight forward. I sent skullybones a PM.
It doesn't need gas ports on top, the side ports are open more above than below for the same effect. You can't see it in the picture, but you can in person. Mine works fine in keeping the barrel down, while I wait for my suppressor to get out of jail.
Good idea about the TBAC , I'll look into it as well. Little more expensive than the JP. No gas ports on the top though? I'd rather not drill mine ... Doesn't look like a lot of metal left in that area already to play with. Does the TBAC come with thread protector or is that extra too?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/01/bd553ff3c4208d9661b5cff5943bc97e.jpg
So I've heard some horror stories of bullet strikes on the brake if the threads aren't perfect... Is this something I need to worry a lot about since I'm taking a brake off to put a new one on? How do I check before sending one down the pipe to make sure it's clear? Or am I just being paranoid?
I think I decided to go with the Precision Armament m11 brake with accuwasher system.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/15/81bae94cf65aa5fe9b1e7ca2380988e8.jpg
XC700116
02-15-2015, 10:48
So I've heard some horror stories of bullet strikes on the brake if the threads aren't perfect... Is this something I need to worry a lot about since I'm taking a brake off to put a new one on? How do I check before sending one down the pipe to make sure it's clear? Or am I just being paranoid?
I think I decided to go with the Precision Armament m11 brake with accuwasher system.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/15/81bae94cf65aa5fe9b1e7ca2380988e8.jpg
Typically that is due to not properly boring the brake for the caliber. MANY brakes are shipped with a bore for .223 or similar small bore and it is left to the gunsmith installing it to properly open it up. This pretty much cures misalignment and gets you proper bore for caliber. That or just some REALLY horrible thread jobs. Either way as long as the bore of the Brake is opened up to about .020" larger than caliber you should be alright, but it's still a good idea to check before shooting.
You can pretty much eyeball it and see if there's enough misalignment to cause a strike. Ie if looking from the chamber down the barrel, you should not be able to get enough angle to see much if any of the Brake's baffles and still be able to see the full daylight through the bore of the barrel.
Ok the brake manufacturer said its opened up for a a 30cal so my .308 will be fine but I'll triple check to make sure. Thank you for the informative post
Delfuego
02-15-2015, 22:14
That brake is made in New York City! Get a rope!
All kidding aside Jared's brakes are better and made in Colorado by a board-member. I would contact him. I will for my next rifle.
http://dynamicresistancellc.com/
Thanks for all the advice guys... Finally got it on. Won't be making friends at the range and I apologize to the guys next to me at the matches with your whisper quiet cans.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8616/16461986548_365589c09e_k_d.jpg
I
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8567/16462170900_90179127d4_m_d.jpgIhttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8683/16029663773_454738d94a_m_d.jpg
Congrats! Hope it makes you happy!
We shall see. It's a big improvement over the stock brake for sure.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8666/16664460811_7b3b472447_m_d.jpg
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