cleaning question

[tmckay2]

not sure if this is the right place, but it seems as do it yourself as it gets. i have only had an ar about a year and am just now getting to shoot more often. when i clean, i take apart the bolt/carrier to the bolt, carrier, pin, firing pin. then i wipe everything well, use some bore cleaner/carbon cleaner and rub each piece, focusing on the spots that get the biggest build up and using q-tip for the hard to get places. then i wipe that off. then i have a tri-lube that i apply using a patch to all these parts, then use a patch to wipe it off gently. next i move to the barrel or bore, send a few patches down with bore cleaner, then the brush several times back and forth, then patches several times, then some tri-lube twice, and again one dry patch to get the excess. after this i basically follow the same procedure on all outer metal surfaces, some of the lower parts while still together and the area where the carrier travels/charging handle. i use the bore cleaner sparingly here, only on parts where there is a lot of kick up of powder residue, but generally still the same procedure, making sure that more tri-lube is wiped off than with the moveable parts. finally i put it together and spray a bit of tri-lube on all four contact points of the carrier and pull the charging handle back and forth a few times to work it in and make sure everything functions.

after that long ramble my question is, is this an acceptable cleaning procedure? do you think itll keep the moving parts and bore went enough and or dry enough or do i need to do something different? as i shoot more i want to be sure i am keeping my firearm well maintained. thanks guys!

[ldmaster]

http://www.fulton-armory.com/M16Clean2.htm


The Marine Corps method of cleaning M16A2's includes a regimen of cleaning over three consecutive days after firing. Rags are used at first to get the majority of crud out of the receiver and bolt carrier assembly. The bores are punched (from the breech end) in one direction only (in the direction of bullet travel), using a standard sectional cleaning rod minus the handle (so that the entire rod can go through the bore). Drop the rod into the chamber end, then pull it through from the muzzle; the end with the patch/brush will be the end to exit. Using CLP, let the bore soak for a day or three before final swabbing.

Using CLP (Breakfree is the commercial equivalent) as the sole cleaning fluid, brush the outside of the bolt carrier and wipe it dry with a clean rag. Using the cleaning rod with only one section, swab out the carrier at both ends, paying particular attention to the end where the bolt goes. Using Q-tips, thoroughly swab out ALL carbon deposits on and in the bolt carrier. Using the brass portion of a stripper clip (or other suitable instrument), scrape the hard carbon deposit "ring" from inside the bolt carrier. Follow up with Q-tips. Using pipe cleaners, clean all of the holes in the bolt carrier, including the gas key (don't insert a Q-tip into the key!). Throughly brush and clean the (stripped) bolt in much the same way, paying particular attention to the extractor.

Next, the handguard retaining ring will be cleaned using Q-tips and pipe cleaners. It is a little tricky, be patient. The place where the gas tube enters the upper receiver is called the "clover leaf". Clean it out with pipe cleaners, inserted from the receiver end. Thoroughly clean the front and rear sight assembly using whatever materials seem appropriate for the job. Remove the buffer from the buffer tube and clean it with a rag. Clean the buffer tube with either a cleaning rod and an oversized patch, or stuff a rag down there and pull it out a few times. Next, spray CLP into the lower receiver group. Rag off all the excess and proceed to Q-tip it out thoroughly. It ususualy doesn't get too dirty. I will skip all of the other minor details, such as scraping out all the crud from the buttstock, etc.

Hope this was of some help.

Sgt Joel R. Dunton, USMC
MCAS New River, NC

[SA Friday]

I use basic hoppe's to clean, and synthetic motor oil to lube.

CLP sucks, and not in a good way. I've had zero luck with any teflon oil ever, but will work. Grease lubes are not recommended for ARs.

If you clean it well, you'll be fine. Ensure you get the carbon build-up off ot the inner and out portions of the BGC and the chamber is clean (the two hardest parts) and oil it regularly, GTG.

Don't over brush the rifle bore. More than a few recommend to NOT brush the bore unless there is a lead or moly build-up. In an AR shooting jacketed bullets and smokeless powders, I don't touch the bore or the throat, just the chamber.

[Bailey Guns]

I'll throw in my 2 cents.

Generally, I agree that there are better products than BreakFree CLP. I don't really like any 3-in-1 product.

However, I do use CLP in my AR Clinics because it has no odor and everything we do is indoors where ventilation is an issue. For most recreational shooters, CLP will serve just fine.

I agree about over-scrubbing a chrome-lined bore. They generally just don't need to be scrubbed with a bronze brush a whole lot.

Don't use Q-tips in the gas tube or the gas key tube. Cleaning the chamber, bolt locking recesses in the chamber, the rounded shoulder on the bolt, the firing pin and the inside surfaces of the chamber are critical. If you spend the bulk of your time keeping those areas properly cleaned and/or lubed, you'll do just fine.

While I normally say less is more when it comes to lubricating firearms, the AR is a different animal. Don't be afraid to liberally lube the gun.