View Full Version : Flash hider removal?
Rooskibar03
05-13-2015, 13:45
How does one go about removing a factory installed hider? I have a Troy 10.5" upper I need to put my AAC hider onto.
Do I need a vice and clamp or some other special tool or is it just a matter of brute force?
Circuits
05-13-2015, 13:59
Depends if the muzzle device is permanent (pinned, welded, silver soldered, etc), or just screwed on. Might have a chemical thread locker like rocksett or loc-tite as well.
To avoid possibly twisting your receiver, I'd recommend clamping the barrel at the front sight base in a vise between a couple pieces of wood to keep the jaws from marring the metal.
Then just screw off if it's non-permanent. Might have to hit the muzzle device with a torch to break down the thread locker if any was used, but try it cold, first.
If it's permanent, you'll likely need to take it to a smith unless you know the permanent attachment method and how to get it off.
SuperiorDG
05-13-2015, 14:12
Wrap the barrel in copper wire and put it in a vice with wood blocks and have at it.
I'd contact Troy and ask then what they use. Pins are mechanical and have to be drilled and or punched out. Some are taper and only can be removed one way. Rockset is NOT chemical, it can be softened in hot water or shock fractured to remove the device. Locktite is a corrosion process and may be hand tool removable, heat removable and some are actually permanent.
Locktite is a corrosion process and may be hand tool removable, heat removable and some are actually permanent.
This I did not know. So the locktite creates corrosion to 'fuse' (I don't have a better word) the metal together?
This I did not know. So the locktite creates corrosion to 'fuse' (I don't have a better word) the metal together?
Technically yes. While there are different kinds, yes. This is also why is does not work on passivated metals without a primer. Anodization, Zinc, Black Oxide all passivate the metal reducing the bond strength of Locktite. Corrosion also results in a slight increase in volume and the formed oxides overlap to lock the connection.
EricTheRed
05-14-2015, 13:26
Magpul's BEV block is pretty awesome if you feel like buying a tool. If it doesn't torque off with about 50-60 ft/lbs of pressure try warm water soaking for a couple hours. IME muzzle devices are usually held on by rocksett due to it's high heat tolerance.
GunsRBadMMMMKay
05-14-2015, 17:16
Locktite is a corrosion process and may be hand tool removable, heat removable and some are actually permanent.
BlackMax FTW lol.........
I was going to suggest a torch as well, though there are times where cold will help too I guess.
Make sure to use some Rockset on your new muzzle device. Don't want it coming unscrewed with the can on there or when removing the can.
I'd be happy to help but you'd have to come way the hell up north. Lol.
BPTactical
05-14-2015, 20:09
If it's pinned[pick-me]
If it's pinned[pick-me]
I would be surprised if it were pinned. I just wouldn't see a need or reason for it to be done on a 10.5" barrel.
But, Bert is definitely the guy if it is.
[Beer]
Rooskibar03
05-14-2015, 20:32
Cursory inspection didn't reveal a pin but I only took a quick look at it the other day. Sunday I'll dig deeper, if I need to make a call to Bert Monday we will have our answer.
BPTactical
05-14-2015, 22:05
I have a SawZall.......
EricTheRed
05-15-2015, 13:37
ps you're welcome to come to Idaho Springs and use my bev block. I too doubt a 10.5 is pinned...unless it has a 5.5" muzzle device.[ROFL2]
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