lower receiver confusion

[Drucker]

I confess,

I do not have a clue. I have always purchased my Rifles complete, but the urge to build a suppressed sbr will not let me be.
The Trust is in place and I figured to start with a stripped lower (https://www.google.com/search?q=lower+receiver&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0CBsQvwUoAGoVChMIjf2JwtisyAIVBqCACh1IIQqP) receiver and get it engraved and send off for the stamp.

Looking for one to buy is like picking up a chick at last call. I can not honestly tell the difference between a 50$ PSA or a 350$ Novske. Made from the same material and supposedly to the same specs.

Can someone please spread a little info my way on what to look for or out for?

TIA

[ray1970]

It's sort of like vehicles. I mean a Chevy Cobalt will get you around town as well as a BMW. It's mostly just a matter of budget and personal tastes.

CNC machines have really made buying a good, functional lower really easy. Most mil-spec lowers are going to build out and function just fine. The roll marks and finish on the cheaper ones might not be as nice as some of the more expensive ones.

You do get some extra features on some of the more expensive models. Things like flared mag wells, ambidextrous features, built in oversize trigger guards, QD sockets, etc.

And, like most things, you are going to pay for the name.

Find one one that has the features you want at a price you can deal with and go with it.

[NoahSki]

If you're building a custom rifle, go with a milled receiver. The quality is much more precise and if you go with a company that sells milled receiver sets they fit like butter. Since the base of your build will be the receiver set, don't cheap out. I'm kinda partial to seekins precision receivers.

Think about it like this, you wouldn't put a 5k dollar set of wheels on a pos chevy caprice would you. We all know some people do.... and most of the time they're borderline retarded.

[Great-Kazoo]

If you're building a custom rifle, go with a milled receiver. The quality is much more precise and if you go with a company that sells milled receiver sets they fit like butter. Since the base of your build will be the receiver set, don't cheap out. I'm kinda partial to seekins precision receivers.

Think about it like this, you wouldn't put a 5k dollar set of wheels on a pos chevy caprice would you. We all know some people do.... and most of the time they're borderline retarded.


The OP is building a SBR. I suggest he get what ever has a good price point under $100.
As for a "custom AR"
A basic lower with quality bbl (CL, WOA etc) BCG, gas system and trigger will do as good as spending $200 on a Tier 1 lower. Will it have the cool factor , eliciting OHHS and AHH from your peer group, probably not.

[izzy]

I've had similar thoughts about "which lower?". With the rules likely to change on December 1st I'm considering buying a few lowers and registering them as SBRs. I have no concrete plans but I want to have them around for when I'm ready. I've been wondering which lower and how should I register them. I'm thinking one in 5.56 and one in 300 blk. Should I just make the paperwork indicate a very short barrel and overall length? Am I way friggin' off topic?

[SouthPaw]

I've built $50 PSA lowers, $300 seekins precision billet lower (my SBR) and everything in between. If I had to do it all over again, I would skip the billet lower (even though it looks badass) and use the extra money for more lowers or another stamp. Although the spikes jack billet lower is on my to buy list just because of looks.

[Great-Kazoo]

I've had similar thoughts about "which lower?". With the rules likely to change on December 1st I'm considering buying a few lowers and registering them as SBRs. I have no concrete plans but I want to have them around for when I'm ready. I've been wondering which lower and how should I register them. I'm thinking one in 5.56 and one in 300 blk. Should I just make the paperwork indicate a very short barrel and overall length? Am I way friggin' off topic?

Stick with them as 5.56 lowers. The upper on a SBR can be changed to any caliber (that works in the lower) Providing you have the configuration you applied and approved for, somewhere in your collection. I have 4 different uppers for 2 SBR lowers. The lowers say 5.56 so that's what i file as. Some say MULTI. DO NOT SUBMIT WITH MULTI. Pick a caliber (HINT) 5.56 and file.

[vossman]

Thanks Kazoo, I have wondered this for a while.


Stick with them as 5.56 lowers. The upper on a SBR can be changed to any caliber (that works in the lower) Providing you have the configuration you applied and approved for, somewhere in your collection. I have 4 different uppers for 2 SBR lowers. The lowers say 5.56 so that's what i file as. Some say MULTI. DO NOT SUBMIT WITH MULTI. Pick a caliber (HINT) 5.56 and file.

[mutt]

All in spec forged lowers are the same, period. The key being "in spec". If a lower is made to the proper specs then it is good to go. Seeing you'll have this lower for the rest of your life after you add it to the NFA registry, pick a good quality one with the roll mark you like. Or, if you have a factory rifle you already like and trust, just register that lower and swap uppers as the mood suits you. While I prefer Colt and BCM lowers, there's nothing wrong with the many PSA lowers I've used. I've found boutique lowers, like a $300 Noveske, don't really seem any better than a $50 PSA other than subjective "fit and finish" (and yes I have a Noveske lower). Just make sure you get a dimensionally correct lower and verify its function BEFORE you go and form 1 it.

And as others have said - get your form 1 in before 41p gets implemented.

[Drucker]

wow, thanks for feedback Gentlemen.
The reason I am asking is because I want to get started on the winter project. But your information opens the blinds on maybe going a bit beyond that. It sounds like the first step will be a leap of faith (and recommendations) just buy and send Uncle Sugar the first check.

[sampson]

Thx for the info and ideas. Haven't had the time/money to start/build a new lower. I have a rock river factory rifle that i like/trust. I'd rather get the ball rolling and sbr that lower. Is there a step by step for the online form that is up to date/complete?


All in spec forged lowers are the same, period. The key being "in spec". If a lower is made to the proper specs then it is good to go. Seeing you'll have this lower for the rest of your life after you add it to the NFA registry, pick a good quality one with the roll mark you like. Or, if you have a factory rifle you already like and trust, just register that lower and swap uppers as the mood suits you. While I prefer Colt and BCM lowers, there's nothing wrong with the many PSA lowers I've used. I've found boutique lowers, like a $300 Noveske, don't really seem any better than a $50 PSA other than subjective "fit and finish" (and yes I have a Noveske lower). Just make sure you get a dimensionally correct lower and verify its function BEFORE you go and form 1 it.

And as others have said - get your form 1 in before 41p gets implemented.

[mutt]

Thx for the info and ideas. Haven't had the time/money to start/build a new lower. I have a rock river factory rifle that i like/trust. I'd rather get the ball rolling and sbr that lower. Is there a step by step for the online form that is up to date/complete?

Here's a good youtube video on the efile system:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz7wpcgUq98

Even though the system is kind of clunky and slow, it's not that hard to use once you figure out the steps/lingo. Get your trust setup first if you haven't already. NFATrustGuy can help with that.

[sampson]

Thx. Appreciate the link. From reading stuff on this forum the most common hangups are:
-the caliber question (not multi !)
-trust name (not your name)
-length of sbr (not barrel length)

Any other pitfalls?

(And thx drucker for posting the question and allowing me to hijack ;) )

[kidicarus13]

With the rules likely to change on December 1st

I don't know about that; I'd throw down $ against it.

[mutt]

Thx. Appreciate the link. From reading stuff on this forum the most common hangups are:
-the caliber question (not multi !)
-trust name (not your name)
-length of sbr (not barrel length)

Any other pitfalls?

(And thx drucker for posting the question and allowing me to hijack ;) )

Those are the big ones. I'd just use the caliber already marked on your lower for the caliber question. Don't over think it. Most of the drop down boxes will guide you to the valid choices.

[Great-Kazoo]

Thx. Appreciate the link. From reading stuff on this forum the most common hangups are:
-the caliber question (not multi !)
-trust name (not your name)
-length of sbr (not barrel length)

Any other pitfalls?

(And thx drucker for posting the question and allowing me to hijack ;) )


FWIW: https://www.ar-15.co/forums/110-NFA-Items

3MB tops for the TRUST. Finding a suppressor in stock when you shop, having enough lowers on hand, or on order for the Form 1's. Having the money to pay your .pay.gov charges, when they start piling up.

[cfortune]

Those are the big ones. I'd just use the caliber already marked on your lower for the caliber question. Don't over think it. Most of the drop down boxes will guide you to the valid choices.
Don't put too much faith in the drop downs. I've seen multi listed as a caliber in there and it is not a valid caliber and will get you rejected.

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