300BLK Upper build advice? please.

[Calculated]

So I've decided that I'm going to build my first (and only [beatdeadhorse] ) AR platform gun. I've settled on the 300BLK caliber, step 1 complete, and it only took me a few years! I've been reading and haven't found THE standout choice for an upper. So I've narrowed it down to 2 choices and I'm just curious if the knowledgeable gentlemen here, wherever they're hiding, could assist me before making a bad decision.

Aero Precision with BA barrel or Palmetto State Armory? I don't want to go AAC route because of cost and customer service concerns. No thanks on DPMS, POF and whatever else I'm forgetting. But by all means if you have personal experience with an upper that really tickles your tip please tell me.

I'd really like to purchase all the parts and completely build it myself but I'm not sure I have the proper tools or time to put an upper together. Is it worth it to completely roll your own?

I also am going to SBR 7"-10" with a can and keep it under my pillow mostly if that matters. Think I'm going with Franklin Armory billet lower, still contemplating trigger but leaning toward geissele and a JP Ent low mass BCG. Is NiB worth the money, is the BLK a dirty girl?

Thanks in advance fellas.

[XC700116]

Running suppressed, its going to be dirty, that's all there is to it. Nib is niice, but just keeping it WELL lubed with a CLP type lube makes cleaning pretty easy.

It's a pretty straight forward build, there's tons of info out there on them. If its going to be run suppressed most of the time, I'd assume you plan on running subs in it most of the time? If so, do your break-in, tuning, and if you roll your own, your load development with the can on it. That will help keep from being over gassed by added the can later.

[cstone]

Here is where I got my .300 barrel http://ballisticadvantage.com/shop/barrels/300-blackout.html

Unless you are doing a matching upper/lower or side charger, just about any decent quality upper will be fine. Have you decided on your handguard? Before I would put a Geissele trigger in it, I would look at the ALG (basically the same company) mil spec trigger.

If you don't have the tools, there is a gunsmith in your neck of the woods.

[SouthPaw]

I just ordered a 8.5" 300BO upper from Radical Firearms a few days ago. It was on sale for $199 and I have read nothing but good things about them. Plus they are based out of Texas and Primary Arms says they are G2G. You cannot go wrong with PSA or Aero. I have a SiCo Omega now and two other cans in jail that will work for this build.

I have built and bought many uppers over the last few years. Unless you really are going to build it from the ground up (certain rail, certain bbl, certain gas block, etc) I do not see any advantage to building it. The cost savings and quality are a huge factor in buying a complete upper from a well known manufacture.

[Calculated]

Okay, so I've got the paperwork for the Omega in process already so that should be home before I get this build completed. She'll be run suppressed and subsonic 100% of her life, I've got better calibers for supers. I do roll my own, do you have recommendations for a resource of handloading subs? I'd appreciate that.
And save money on the NiB BCG, got it. Thank you. I take good care of my guns so it'll stay oiled anyway.

I haven't decided on a handguard yet. I'm still trying to decide if I want to have it as short as the barrel or cover the suppressor as well. It sounds like for the price a BA barrel is a solid choice. I'll definitely look into the ALG trigger too. I'm definitely looking to go a more financially responsible direction, but I don't want to buy shit either.

Alright I'll go check out Radical right now! I thought it might save some bucks to build it completely myself but if it won't behoove me then a complete sounds like the best approach for now.

[Irving]

I got a 10.5" upper from PSA for $199, but they went out of stock because it was the day of the shooting. That other mentioned company for the same price may deal with less volume and still have stock.

[20X11]

For 16 inch barrels...
Having built and fired a number of 300 BLK uppers, I HIGHLY recommend Daniel Defense barrels for this caliber. $279.00 unless you can find them on sale. I have AAC, CMMG, Mossberg/Diamond, and some el cheapo brand I won't mention. Daniel Defense blows them all away for both function and accuracy.

For 8" - 10.5"...
I HIGHLY recommend KAK Industries Mr. Blond barrel(9inch) - $265.00. In these lengths I have PSA, and AAC as well. KAK blows those away for function and accuracy.

[Calculated]

Down the rabbit hole I go... This just got even more complicated.. I really appreciate all the information though guys.

[Calculated]

A couple additional questions for you gents. Does anyone use or recommend the JP silent capture spring and lo mass bcg? Is an adjustable gas block a good idea or unnecessary? I want it to be vewy vewy quiet...

Finally, for now, is the main benefit of a machined billet upper and lower strength?

[20X11]

300 BLK can be finicky about is gas/bcg/buffer combinations. In 16 inch carbine gas, you will never have an over-gassed situation...making an adjustable gas block less than worthless. A properly tuned pistol length gas system will not need an adjustable block either. Some use JP stuff, but a properly lubed standard buffer system is really all you should need. Spend the extra money on ammo. Low mass bcg makes tuning system harder. Stick with standard or FA bcg.

Finally, Billet is a personal choice...usually for a nice fit between upper and lower. 300 BLK will never need any additional strength provided by billet. Forged is fine and less expensive.

[Calculated]

Perfect. Thank you very much!

[MarkCO]

A couple additional questions for you gents. Does anyone use or recommend the JP silent capture spring and lo mass bcg? Is an adjustable gas block a good idea or unnecessary? I want it to be vewy vewy quiet...

Finally, for now, is the main benefit of a machined billet upper and lower strength?

JP SCS and lo mass BCG...not much benefit in a PDW. I run low mass systems in all of my .223 ARs, but in the heavier calibers, just not much, if any benefit. Low mass will open a bit sooner and technically, it might be a bit louder. I do not run adjustable gas in mine due to the fact that I do not want to chase the tune is it changes and want 100% reliability. THis is the BCG I use in .300BOs: http://www.usamade-ar15parts.com/product-p/bcgrnb.htm

I like a barrel with a slightly undersized gas port, get everything dialed in and the last thing I do is open the gas port incrementally until I get full function, then slightly ream that out. I good clamp style gas block that does not leak, preferably made of the same material as the barrel is what I prefer.

Billet receivers are bling only.

When you look at HGs, you want to consider the connection between the barrel and suppressor. Do you want that under the HG or not. I have one set up with a 10.5" barrel and a 10" HG and another with a 15" HG so the suppressor just barely peeks out. I do like the ability to have my support hand out a bit further on the 15" HG one, but I won't shoot that one without the suppressor.

[Calculated]

I know it has taken a lot of time, money and mistakes aka experience to have the knowledge base that you guys do and I genuinely appreciate you all taking the time to share it with me. I know how annoying it can be to have someone new come in and ask a ton of questions when you had to figure it all out yourself. In my defense, I have read through a lot of threads on various websites and the bulk of what I can find is a little too OAF to be taken seriously.

Mark, if I'm shooting w/o a suppressor will the blast damage the rail if the muzzle device is say an inch inside the end? Thanks for the meaty reply

[cstone]

I have an 8.5" barrel with a barking spider 2 under 10" handguards. This leaves about two inches of the brake outside the end of the handguard. I like the krink like linear comp as it seems to push the excess gas forward evenly and the sound is definitely easier for the shooter than anyone on either side.

I don't think I want anything hanging past the exit end of the barrel other than a comp/flash hider or suppressor. Short barrels tend to be little flame throwers, which can be fun in low or no light shooting.

[DangerLee_Industries]

You are still welcome to swing by and get all your questions answered in one shot!

[Calculated]

You are still welcome to swing by and get all your questions answered in one shot!

I'll definitely be by sometime next week when I'm off work. For now this is my only avenue to quench my thirst for controlled chaos. Also my wife will be with me so lets keep the numbers on the down low, I just want to hammer out some details on my flagship build.

Edit: The more questions answered the more I have...

[brutal]

While you're at Tim's, check out the Hiperfire Hipertouch triggers. I dropped an EDT2 in my 9" AAC bbl 300BLK and they're great for the price.

[MarkCO]

Mark, if I'm shooting w/o a suppressor will the blast damage the rail if the muzzle device is say an inch inside the end? Thanks for the meaty reply

It won't do any structural damage to the rail. But it might get some carbon and damage a finish. I am more concerned with a finger getting out front (if even to the side) of the muzzle. The cheap liner comps like cstone alluded to can add a few inches and be a solution.

[Calculated]

It won't do any structural damage to the rail. But it might get some carbon and damage a finish. I am more concerned with a finger getting out front (if even to the side) of the muzzle. The cheap liner comps like cstone alluded to can add a few inches and be a solution.

Yea I was kind of worried that I might forget where the end of the barrel is vs the end of the handguard. I've felt fireworks blow up in my hand, I imagine this would be a little worse. I actually thought it might do structural damage.

Brutal I'll def check it out, I saw it advertised on joebob's and was curious but it's all new to me. Thanks for the intel.

[MarkCO]

Just a little warning on the Hiperfires...I know of at least 4 match DQs from shooters whose guns fired upon dropping the bolt with Hiperfires and it was not a slamfire. It seems that almost all of the "unintentional doubles" I see at matches come from a JP trigger or a Hiperfire trigger. As such, two triggers I would not use in an AR15 that might be is use "off the range". At the range, it costs you a match fee...off the range, could be worse. Yes, the likelihood is low, but it is more than normal. Just something to be aware of.

[Calculated]

Just a little warning on the Hiperfires...I know of at least 4 match DQs from shooters whose guns fired upon dropping the bolt with Hiperfires and it was not a slamfire. It seems that almost all of the "unintentional doubles" I see at matches come from a JP trigger or a Hiperfire trigger. As such, two triggers I would not use in an AR15 that might be is use "off the range". At the range, it costs you a match fee...off the range, could be worse. Yes, the likelihood is low, but it is more than normal. Just something to be aware of.

Definitely worthy of a mention. Thanks again everyone