What water based solvent in my parts washer?

[Tim K]

Gonna switch from kerosene. What should I use? The only use will be gun cleaning.

[newracer]

Simple Green?

[ray1970]

Simple green or purple power are probably the two best options. I've used them both a lot over the years in an industrial setting and they both work well. I've used the simple green quite a bit over the years for cleaning guns parts as well and have been happy with the results.

[BPTactical]

You can get a firearm specific concentrate here: http://www.crest-ultrasonics.com/ultrasonic-gun-case-cleaner/

It is for an ultrasonic machine but it works OK without one. The advantage over Simple Green or Purple Power is this is formulated to deal with lead, copper etc.
Otherwise SG and PP will do.

[C Ward]

Don't use simple green or purple power on aluminum bad things happen .

[ray1970]

Don't use simple green or purple power on aluminum bad things happen .

Really? I didn't know that.

We use that stuff all of the time to clean turbo after cooler fins. Pretty sure they are aluminum. Either we've gotten lucky for the last twelve years or any claim they make about it being bad for aluminum are false.

Does it say that on the label or do you have a personal experience? Thanks.

[C Ward]

Both , the acids that hey are based on are corrosive to aluminum and in an ultrasonic cleaner it will destroy in nothing flat .

[ray1970]

Both , the acids that hey are based on are corrosive to aluminum and in an ultrasonic cleaner it will destroy in nothing flat .

First, I'm not doubting you or throwing any sort of B.S. flag or anything. Just trying to educate myself a bit. And I've never used the stuff in an ultrasonic cleaner.

But, looking at the ingredients and their quantities I just don't see what would have a negative effect on the aluminum.

Simple Green is 84.8% water, 5% Sodium Citrate, 5% Ethoxylated Alcohol, and a few other chemicals at less that 1% each.

What sort of aluminum parts did you put in the ultrasonic cleaner?

[Great-Kazoo]

Really? I didn't know that.

We use that stuff all of the time to clean turbo after cooler fins. Pretty sure they are aluminum. Either we've gotten lucky for the last twelve years or any claim they make about it being bad for aluminum are false.

Does it say that on the label or do you have a personal experience? Thanks.

Yes & Yes.

[ray1970]

According to the simple green website it can be used on aluminum "with caution and according to the instructions."

[Great-Kazoo]

According to the simple green website it can be used on aluminum "with caution and according to the instructions."

AND................

The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.

Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.








20 minutes is pushing it on painted Al items



10 Minutes doesn't do squat cleaning wise in an ultrasonic cleaner. I use Lymans or Hornady for specific items in the sonic cleaner. For all around use, Liquid Tide (Original) 1 tablespoon to 1gal water. My cleaners have a heating element. if the one you use doesn't mix any of the sonic cleaners with Hot Water.

[SA Friday]

hydrogen molecules bond to aluminum on it's surface. Bases and some other chemicals in cleaners can strip the hydrogens from the surface and expose it to oxidizers. Spraying it on and wiping it off, you are probably OK. Over exposure to parts in a heated ultrasonic? bad juju.

I was thinking maybe M-Pro-7. It's primarily ingredient is diethylene glycol butyl ether, but it's pH is 10.7. Way too basic. About as bad as the rest in an ultrasonic.

Edited to add: Kazoo beat me to the explanation. Alkalinity is another word for a base.

[Circuits]

I use simple green aircraft formulation as the basis for my ultrasonic cleaner solution. Usually lube separately after cleaning, rather than a lubing dip, as I'm trying to get the tank cleaned out at that point.

[Tim K]

Not that it matters, this is not an ultrasonic. I have one, but that's not the cleaner in question. This is for a 20 gallon parts washer with a simple recirculating pump.

[C Ward]

Other thing is cold water washers suck , it needs to be hot to work best .

[SA Friday]

Soooo, I was going to possibly recommend Windex grease cutter. I looked up the active ingredient on its MSDS. And what do you know, its propylene glycol monobutyl ether. This is almost exactly the same chemical in M-Pro-7, but is just slightly more basic (even worse on Al).

The more I look, the more I may be inclined to recommend just filling it with water and put a squirt bottle of dish soap on the ledge next to the scrubbing brushes.

[Great-Kazoo]

Not that it matters, this is not an ultrasonic. I have one, but that's not the cleaner in question. This is for a 20 gallon parts washer with a simple recirculating pump.

If the parts washer ISN'T METAL This is the way to go.

ozzy juice #3

http://www.chemfree.com/compare/ozzyjuice-compare.html

if you're still running a metal parts washer try this
http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1/181-2995113-3617416?ie=UTF8&qid=1451938834&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater+degreaser

http://www.grainger.com/category/parts-washer-cleaners-and-solvents/automotive-lifting-garage

[Tim K]

if you're still running a metal parts washer try this
http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1/181-2995113-3617416?ie=UTF8&qid=1451938834&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater+degreaser


I saw that searching this morning. What say you chemists?

[SA Friday]

I saw that searching this morning. What say you chemists?

2-butoxyethanol. It's another glycol ether but doesn't have the same issues. Pretty mild stuff compared to the rest of them. It still beaks down into two components when stripping oils just like the other glycol ethers. It just breaks down into more innocuous materials. Still not as non-toxic as advertised. They use this in hydraulic fracking BTW.

Wouldn't be a bad choice.

[crays]

And I have purchased it from either Costco or Sam's in the past, as well. Originally got it for the driveway. Never occurred to me to to use it on gun parts.

[Tim K]

Great. I'll try it, then. Gotta love Amazon Prime.

[BPTactical]

Get a magnetic oil pan heater, stick it to the underside of the tank.

[Tim K]

Great idea, Bert.

[Great-Kazoo]

And I have purchased it from either Costco or Sam's in the past, as well. Originally got it for the driveway. Never occurred to me to to use it on gun parts.

Wally World also carries it.

[sportbikeco]

ive had power purple mess up anodized AL on motorcycle parts. Don't know if it use it on a gun. Id rather have the kerosene or some other low odor petroleum based stuff.

[MarkCO]

I would take a look at Lucas Oil Bore Solvent. http://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-line/lucas-extreme-duty-bore-solvent-ultrasonic-gun-cleaner

While it is a bore cleaner, it is safe for use in heated tanks, has a pleasant odor, won't evaporate away. This stuff is an amazing step forward in gun care and nothing else is even close.

[Tim K]

I tried this stuff today.

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1/181-2995113-3617416?ie=UTF8&qid=1451938834&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater+degreaser

I mixed it 10:1 per the instructions. Did it with hot water and it worked really well. I'm pleasantly surprised. I rinsed in straight water and blew the parts dry.

I'll have a tank heater hooked up tomorrow, and I'll guess it needs it. I'll try it cold and see, but I'm pretty sure it worked well in part because it was warm.

BTW, the Harbor Freight parts washer for $100 is a steal.

http://t.harborfreight.com/20-gal-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html

I rigged the drain plug with a valve and a hose to make changing the solution easy. I actually holds 10-11 gallons if you fill it to a reasonable level.

[ray1970]

So, that stuff is pretty much water with some 2 Butoxyethanol and some sodium metasilicate-pentahydrate.

Some of you book smart types want to tell me if either of these substances are going to ruin Tim's guns?

[SA Friday]

So, that stuff is pretty much water with some 2 Butoxyethanol and some sodium metasilicate-pentahydrate.

Some of you book smart types want to tell me if either of these substances are going to ruin Tim's guns?
Should be fine.

[Great-Kazoo]

I tried this stuff today.

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-AOD1G35437-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1/181-2995113-3617416?ie=UTF8&qid=1451938834&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+eater+degreaser

I mixed it 10:1 per the instructions. Did it with hot water and it worked really well. I'm pleasantly surprised. I rinsed in straight water and blew the parts dry.

I'll have a tank heater hooked up tomorrow, and I'll guess it needs it. I'll try it cold and see, but I'm pretty sure it worked well in part because it was warm.

BTW, the Harbor Freight parts washer for $100 is a steal.

http://t.harborfreight.com/20-gal-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html

I rigged the drain plug with a valve and a hose to make changing the solution easy. I actually holds 10-11 gallons if you fill it to a reasonable level.

Keep an eye on the interior finish. They have a habit (the old ones) for peeling off or slowly bubbling up in small areas. Till the next cleaner change and there's a glob of paint clogging the drain hole.
Happy to know that cleaner worked for you.