Road Bikes

[Honey Badger282.8]

I find myself riding on more pavement than dirt these days and a full-suspension mountain bike with knobby tires is getting old. I'm looking at buying my first road bike while I'm on here in California for work and could use some opinions and knowledge from a few riders. Budget is around $7-800 and I'm okay with a used bike. Craigslist is pretty barren but there are a few shops out here that have some used bikes and a new one that seems promising.

Used:
2011 GT GTR SRS 1 - Asking $850
Al Frame
Carbon Fork
Ultegra Groupset

2007 Douglas by Colorado Cyclist - Asking $1000 (I'd have to see if he's willing to come down in price)
Ti Frame
Carbon Fork
Ultegra Groupset

New:
2015 KHS Flite 450 (http://khsbicycles.com/bikes/flite-450-15/) - $820 OTD incl tax
Al Frame
Carbon Fork & Seat Post
Tiagra Goupset
Mechanical Disc Brakes

Has anyone had experience with online vendors? Bikes Direct seems to have a decent following if you're not concerned with a name brand. A few bikes fit my price range and have decent build sheets.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/comp22_road-bikes.htm
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/ventnoir_xii.htm

A buddy recommended mybikeshop.com for buying used bikes online, any experience with the vendor?

[Musashi]

If you are a little mechanically inclined then the bikes from bikesdirect.com are a good value. Some shops may not work on them but more and more are coming to the realization that more people buy gear online because it is cheaper - go figure that one out!

The only thing I would tell you is go to a shop and get an idea of what size bike you need. As is top tube length, etc. as every manufacturer does things a little differently in that area.

Craig's list should have more gear showing up as people transition to winter sports, kinda like now is a good time to buy a motorcycle as the days get shorter and cooler.
Anyways for your budget you are going to be getting a so-so (new) road bike. Probably as aluminum frame and if you are lucky Shimano 105 components.

Sorry can't help you out with mybikeshop.com as I have never heard of them. There is a guy in the metro area, bike broker or something that sells used also.

Good luck!

[BushMasterBoy]

I have a Trek 330. Rode it a few times, probably less than a 100 miles. Bought it used. Steel frame. I got about $175 into it. Google it. If you like it, and it fits, $75 for you. There are two listed on Ebay right now asking between $400 and $600. I have the clipless shoes to go with it too. It was a great bike on the paved trail along I-70 in Glenwood Springs. I haven't ridden it since 2005. Lemme know if you are interested. Maybe you can resell it...

[KestrelBike]

One thing to think about for that first bike is that from what I've heard multiple times, carbon components should be replaced every 5-7 years if they're load-bearing. So that's frames, but most especially the forks. Since it's a 2011 bike, that means that the forks are at least 5 years old and may be due for a replacement, which could quickly cost ~$130+.

[Honey Badger282.8]

I have a Trek 330. Rode it a few times, probably less than a 100 miles. Bought it used. Steel frame. I got about $175 into it. Google it. If you like it, and it fits, $75 for you. There are two listed on Ebay right now asking between $400 and $600. I have the clipless shoes to go with it too. It was a great bike on the paved trail along I-70 in Glenwood Springs. I haven't ridden it since 2005. Lemme know if you are interested. Maybe you can resell it...

Thanks but I'm out in CA for four months or I might be interested.


One thing to think about for that first bike is that from what I've heard multiple times, carbon components should be replaced every 5-7 years if they're load-bearing. So that's frames, but most especially the forks. Since it's a 2011 bike, that means that the forks are at least 5 years old and may be due for a replacement, which could quickly cost ~$130+.

I've read that too in my research but I've also seen it mentioned that it was more of a rule of thumb for older bikes. It seems like there are two camps on this, which only adds to my confusion.

http://cyclingtips.com/2015/08/what-is-the-lifespan-of-a-carbon-frame/

[SSChameleon]

I haven't used bikedirect, but a few friends have. If you are comfortable building up a bike and checking all components then its not a bad way to go. For used, the things to check:
Drive Train. If you have the tool to check chain wear, take it with you. If the chain is very stretched it means the rings are likely worn. Drivetrain replacement on the road bike can get expensive. If you don't have the tool to check shift the bike into the big ring up front. Pull up on the chain on the front on of the cog. If you can pull up and expose the entire tooth below, the chain is very worn. If you can pull up a little but the tooth is not fully exposed, then you are good.

Check for crash damage. Look at the top tube, especially where it connects to the head tube. Any cracks/bulges? If so, it probably left on the rack on top of the car when they pulled into the garage. Check the quick release for significant scratches/deep gouges from high speed contact with asphalt. Give the tires a spin to see if they are true. If it's quick release, pull the seat post and look for signs of water/rust (if it's a steel or alloy frame). Take a size 4 and 5 allen wrench. See if the bolts that hold the water bottles can move or if they have rusted in place.

[SNAFU]

Not a big Ti or Carbon fan,,just a dinosaur, steel frame rider.
CA? Soma Fabrications,,Jones,,, ,,REI has some good bikes plus get a dividend.
My Surly Ogre has Schwallable Mondials,,also look at Schwallable Fat Franks.
Continental,, has some good tires too.
Maybe easier to get new "road" tire,,,,if the bike fits,,rides good

Surly Long Haul Disk Trucker,current ride.,,Disk brakes,,

[KestrelBike]

A word on tires: I've found that if something is going to puncture it, it doesn't matter how nice the tire is. I stopped buying the $60/pop continental gators and just buy whatever performance has on sale for <$20/each. They seem to last me just as long.

[Rucker61]

Performance Bike has Fuji carbon road bikes on sale right now, with a 20% points bonus if you're a member. There are some pretty nice bikes in your price point, and you can make sure you get your size.

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

If you are in the $700 - $800 range, I'd seriously skip anything carbon. $0.02
I've done > 100 miles on aluminum many times over, so you'll survive and you obviously aren't competing.

In that range, if you can't find a closeout somewhere - yeah, I'd do bikesdirect, I'd do aluminum, and the best components you can get. That's just me.

FWIW, I ride carbon on nice long rides in the mtns, but I race and train on aluminum.


Edit: By "nice components" I'd say 105/Rival is sort of the minimum I'd go. Triple that if used...

[Honey Badger282.8]

Figured I'd bump this. I never got a bike while I was out in California, nothing really struck my fancy and I was about to come back to a Colorado winter which meant no rides. Bicycle Village had a big sale this weekend and I picked up a barely used demo bike for a steal at $800. The tires are brand new and it still had all of the protective wrap on the shiny bits.

2015 Trek Domane 4.3C, Series 4
Full Carbon
Shimano 105 Components

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/GTOhaas07/IMG_1604_zpsvouadty8.jpg

I took it for a 30 mile ride today, so much better than riding a full-suspension mountain bike.

[roberth]

Good job on a carbon 105 bike.

I got a 2015 Ridley X-Fire carbon Ultegra for my girl, reg $3600 for $1200 at Performance.

[waxthis]

Figured I'd bump this. I never got a bike while I was out in California, nothing really struck my fancy and I was about to come back to a Colorado winter which meant no rides. Bicycle Village had a big sale this weekend and I picked up a barely used demo bike for a steal at $800. The tires are brand new and it still had all of the protective wrap on the shiny bits.

2015 Trek Domane 4.3C, Series 4
Full Carbon
Shimano 105 Components

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll155/GTOhaas07/IMG_1604_zpsvouadty8.jpg

I took it for a 30 mile ride today, so much better than riding a full-suspension mountain bike.

Good bike...Smoking deal for sure..[Beer]

[fairrpe86]

I thought my Domane 5.2C for $2500 a few weeks ago was a good deal...but that is a steal. Nice find!

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

Nicely done on the Domane! Good find. My wife loves hers.

Also nicely done on the x-fire!

[TheBelly]

Trek........

That's a heckuva price..

Is it a 10 or 11 speed at the back?

[TheBelly]

put a good carbon seatpost on that bad boy and you'll see the IsoSpeed really come into its own.

The bottom brackets are notoriously hard to get tuned right. If it needs to be serviced, just get a new one. a 105 BB should be around $30, but a Dura Ace is right around $50. I've had to change one before and the press-fit is not worth it to try and salvage; they are usually destroyed by removing them.

[Honey Badger282.8]

It's an 11 speed and has a carbon seatpost.

http://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/2015/Trek/domane_4_3_compact#/us/en/2015/Trek/domane_4_3_compact/details

I put 33 miles on it this past Sunday, aside from the derailleur needing some tuning there isn't anything I want to change on it yet. Thanks for the heads up on the BB!

[fairrpe86]

Derailer needing adjusted is to be expected. New cables will stretch a few times and other components will shift minor amounts until everything is seated where it should be. I have about 75 on my new Domane and have had it adjusted once and probably could use it again after my next ride.

[TheBelly]

It's an 11 speed and has a carbon seatpost.

Thanks for the heads up on the BB!

One of the best designs for BB is the thread together. In aluminum frames (and certain carbon frames, too) the BB used to thread in to the bracket area. The Press-Fit style can get some creaking in there due to dirt/debris getting wedged in between the plastic 'sacrificial' housing and the frame.

Here's an example of the kind that thread together. (I changed all of my BB to the full ceramic thread together type)


Trek's factory seat posts are carbon wrapped aluminum, usually.

[8Ring]

I would definitely go with the Douglas titanium frame. (I've been riding a Samson Ti frame bike with Ultegra 6700 for 5 years and I love it.) A good Ti frame will last a lifetime and will laugh off minor crashes that will send carbon fiber frames to the bike hospital. A Ti frame has a "livelier" and more comfortable ride than an aluminum frame. Make sure the frame is the right size for you. I also strongly recommend getting a professional bike fit. A properly fit bike will help you avoid various aches and pains that might come during longer road rides.

I'm also not convinced about replacing carbon fiber forks and frames every 7 years. I don't think carbon fiber parts will deteriorate simply through the passage of time. The type of riding is more important. One year of cyclocross riding will probably put more stress on the components than many years of riding on reasonably smooth roads.

[TheBelly]

I would definitely go with the Douglas titanium frame. (I've been riding a Samson Ti frame bike with Ultegra 6700 for 5 years and I love it.) A good Ti frame will last a lifetime and will laugh off minor crashes that will send carbon fiber frames to the bike hospital. A Ti frame has a "livelier" and more comfortable ride than an aluminum frame. Make sure the frame is the right size for you. I also strongly recommend getting a professional bike fit. A properly fit bike will help you avoid various aches and pains that might come during longer road rides.

I'm also not convinced about replacing carbon fiber forks and frames every 7 years. I don't think carbon fiber parts will deteriorate simply through the passage of time. The type of riding is more important. One year of cyclocross riding will probably put more stress on the components than many years of riding on reasonably smooth roads.

Carbon doesn't need to be replaced unless it becomes unserviceable. Same rules apply to an aluminum/titanium/steel frame. Older carbon frames 'may' have different types of resins that 'may' break down over time (with the application of EXTREME heat and use), but unless the carbon actually breaks, then it should be fine for a lifetime. Carbon can be repaired, but it should be repaired professionally. If a crash will destroy a carbon frame, chances are it will also send a titanium frame to the scrap bin as well. I will pick carbon over titanium any day of the week. Titanium is an isomorphic substance (I think that's the right word) in that it will bend and flex the same way in all directions. Carbon can be layered to give different characteristics in different directions of stresses.

Frame size: The overall top tube length, stack height, and reach are the key components to a good bike fit. everything else can be adjusted using the finishing kit and/or component choices. I have used a frame that was technically too small for me, but I made up for it with a longer stem (130mm vs my normal 110mm) and a longer seat post (400mm instead of a standard 350mm). It's not difficult to get a smaller bike to fit, but it's almost impossible to get a bike to fit right if the frame is too big.

A cyclocross frame is more than just a road frame that has fatter tires on it. It is designed and engineered to perform the tasks needed of cyclocross racing.

[TheBelly]

I did a century on Monday. Wasn't too difficult. I needed to eat more and keep the nutrition up. I almost bonked at mile 95, which meant the other folks on the ride must have been REALLY hurting.

[Honey Badger282.8]

My goal is to do a century by July. My first real ride on the bike was 30 miles so I think that's a realistic goal.

[TheBelly]

My goal is to do a century by July. My first real ride on the bike was 30 miles so I think that's a realistic goal.

The longer rides are completed with nutrition and nothing else.

There's a requisite level of fitness needed, yes, but mostly it's all about staying fed and hydrated.

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

A cyclocross frame is more than just a road frame that has fatter tires on it. It is designed and engineered to perform the tasks needed of cyclocross racing.


Like so many other things cycling, cyclocross frames are truly becoming a blend along a spectrum between road and true Cx. That X-fire mentioned earlier is much further on that spectrum designed for racing, but so many "gravel grinders" are creeping towards some Cx characteristics. That is not a disagreement with you, just an observation that the whole thing has been an interesting phenomenon to watch the evolution. Salsa has been really making their own way with some of their "cross" bikes. I love what they are constantly doing, but so often I'm just not sure what to do with it. I wouldn't race it Cx, and I wouldn't want to do big road miles on it constantly either. I guess just ride for fun. And FWIW, I have done a century or two (for sure Buffalo Classic) on my old Crossbow with cantis, true Cx TT routing, and the 46/38. Definitely didn't break any land speed records. [Coffee]

[TheBelly]

Like so many other things cycling, cyclocross frames are truly becoming a blend along a spectrum between road and true Cx. That X-fire mentioned earlier is much further on that spectrum designed for racing, but so many "gravel grinders" are creeping towards some Cx characteristics. That is not a disagreement with you, just an observation that the whole thing has been an interesting phenomenon to watch the evolution. Salsa has been really making their own way with some of their "cross" bikes. I love what they are constantly doing, but so often I'm just not sure what to do with it. I wouldn't race it Cx, and I wouldn't want to do big road miles on it constantly either. I guess just ride for fun. And FWIW, I have done a century or two (for sure Buffalo Classic) on my old Crossbow with cantis, true Cx TT routing, and the 46/38. Definitely didn't break any land speed records. [Coffee]

I used a CX bike for the 'commute' from work to the room here. It was a great amount of fun to basically hooligan my way the 1.7 miles in between. Traffic? No problem!

I see the environment getting saturated by the niche markets: Aero, Lightweight, Endurance, TT, Tri, Gravel, CX, etc., etc. I have two: a lightweight and an aero. I mostly ride the lightweight bike (Helium SL).

[roberth]

Like so many other things cycling, cyclocross frames are truly becoming a blend along a spectrum between road and true Cx. That X-fire mentioned earlier is much further on that spectrum designed for racing, but so many "gravel grinders" are creeping towards some Cx characteristics. That is not a disagreement with you, just an observation that the whole thing has been an interesting phenomenon to watch the evolution. Salsa has been really making their own way with some of their "cross" bikes. I love what they are constantly doing, but so often I'm just not sure what to do with it. I wouldn't race it Cx, and I wouldn't want to do big road miles on it constantly either. I guess just ride for fun. And FWIW, I have done a century or two (for sure Buffalo Classic) on my old Crossbow with cantis, true Cx TT routing, and the 46/38. Definitely didn't break any land speed records. [Coffee]

The Ridley is a racing Cx bike, probably overkill for my girl but she loves it and rides it all over the place. We'll change out the tires if we're doing a no-dirt road ride, then we'll see what is faster, my Cervelo R3 or hers.

I used to ride a Specialized Tri-Cross, I sold that and bought a Salsa Cutthroat which is a drop-bar mountain bike that acts like a Cx. It is a ton of fun, I put a drop-seatpost on it so I could run down steep hills better.

I still long for a pure Cx but I wouldn't ride it much b/c the Cutthroat is so versatile.

[TheBelly]

We'll change out the tires if we're doing a no-dirt road ride, then we'll see what is faster, my Cervelo R3 or hers.


Her bottom bracket is faster than your bottom bracket.

BBRight? ugh!