Matched... or not?

[BigBear]

Hopefully a quick question:

In building a new AR is it better to purchase a matched receiver set or does it really matter? What are the pros/cons?

I see some matched sets for $700 stripped while some lowers stripped are from $50-$300...

Whats the story?

[Great-Kazoo]

Buy what you can afford. They are all suppose to be in some marginal specification. Myself, I'm buying a $100 or less lower some rifle kit for $499 and the rest on components.

[CS1983]

I have an unmatched lower/upper on my SPR and it shoots just fine -- better than me most days. Unless you have some serious tolerance issues, it shouldn't really matter.

[Great-Kazoo]

Updating my reply. is there a difference between a "matched" upper and lower to the basic A lower, B upper, yes. One has to decide what they want from said build.

(OH NO HERE COMES THE WHEN I WAS YOUR AGE SPIEL)

Having owned factory AR's before the days of parts kits, for the average shooter the difference (besides finish and even sometimes fit) is IMO negligible.
Build your own, buy an off the rack AR or drop the coin on a Tier 1 ($1200-3K) rifle.

The bottom line... it's the person behind the trigger that makes the difference.

Know your rifle, stick with the same factory or load your ammo, and one can equal or outperform the guy shooting the $2Kk AR. That $400 stripped upper & lower buys an optic, mags or more ammo

[Circuits]

Pros - you *might* get a tighter fit or superior cosmetic finish match.
Cons - you *will* spend more.

There will be no functional difference between the two.

[ray1970]

It's kind of a crap shoot due to the +/- tolerances.

I've had non-matched receivers that fit together very well.

Unless you're building a serious, high end precision rifle you probably aren't going to see much difference in accuracy down range.

[BigBear]

Ok... interesting...

So is there anyplace to get a non-marked upper and lower? I know the serial/.cal has to be on their for registration purposes but does it have to have all the other "junk" on there (roll marks, etc)?

[Irving]

There aren't many companies that put out a product without labeling it. Not in the gun world anyway.

[CS1983]

I hear the DOJ has some guns for sale... :D

[Circuits]

Ok... interesting...

So is there anyplace to get a non-marked upper and lower? I know the serial/.cal has to be on their for registration purposes but does it have to have all the other "junk" on there (roll marks, etc)?
Only the serial actually has to go on the receiver - other required markings (maker name, city, state, model, caliber) can go on the barrel instead of the receiver.

Closest I've seen are the NoDak Spuds non-logo lowers, otherwise, you'd have to build up an 80% lower to get a basically-bare lower.

[Dave_L]

Depends on what you're building. I generally like to match upper/lower for higher end stuff. But for basic rifles, nope, mix and match all day long.

[BigBear]

Depends on what you're building. ....


I see this a lot on different forums about building... can you indulge me a little and explain. An AR is an AR isn't it? Just with different options such as barrel length and handguards etc. It's been likened to a guys barbie doll with accessories. What do you mean it depends on what I'm building? I'm building an AR... something to shoot at the range. I'm not a super secret squirrel. 5.56, prefer 14.5 (short so the wife can handle easier too), eventually suppressed (hopefully), lightweight, accurate, reliable, and quality.... The one thing I do NOT want is that A frame front sight, I prefer folddowns...


I don't know what I want. I've shot a bunch of different ones.. even a few FA's, but this would be my first one to own/build.

[CS1983]

14.5" w/ pinned muzzle device... so basic AR.

yeah, Matched makes no difference.

[Dave_L]

I meant, are you building a Noveske (or the like)? If so, matching parts is important in the Noveske world. It also helps the "lines" of the gun to line up. I mean that in reference to the design style, not any functioning part.

If you just want a functioning rifle, then mix and match with the parts you want and don't worry about it. You have the basic idea of what you want so go with it. At the end of the day, there is zero reason you can't mix/match. It just depends on how anal you want to be about it.

[ray1970]

It just depends on how anal you want to be about it.

Winner.

[Great-Kazoo]

I see this a lot on different forums about building... can you indulge me a little and explain. An AR is an AR isn't it? Just with different options such as barrel length and handguards etc. It's been likened to a guys barbie doll with accessories. What do you mean it depends on what I'm building? I'm building an AR... something to shoot at the range. I'm not a super secret squirrel. 5.56, prefer 14.5 (short so the wife can handle easier too), eventually suppressed (hopefully), lightweight, accurate, reliable, and quality.... The one thing I do NOT want is that A frame front sight, I prefer fold downs...


I don't know what I want. I've shot a bunch of different ones.. even a few FA's, but this would be my first one to own/build.



1: your budget

2: you've established a lightweight build

3: reliable, buy from vendors that warranty their products and or have positive feed back from actual shooters. Getting No name hand guard because it's $40 less than a known brand. That's on you



lightweight : I would suggest a Faxon 14.5" lightweight / pencil bbl (.625 dia) they are 1:8 twist 5.56 chambered. Just swapped out a 12.5 M4 to the faxon for the spouses LW SBR

From the 12.5 M4 with carbon float tube, A2 front sight to the faxon 14.5 LW with magpul mid-length hand guards , low pro gas block. I knocked another 8 oz off


accurate: this is a 16" build a retired school teacher (66 yrs old) did. I helped her with the upper, she did the lower.
LOWER:
stripped bushmaster with dpms LPK.
UPPER: PSA mid-length s/steel bbl, A marked flat top upper, used 12" float tube, lo pro gas block. Bushnell AR223 1-4 lower end scope

Her only interaction with a long gun was an .06 remy and S&W M&P 15-22 Lots of hand gun trigger time..
. Sight in @ 25.
67746

Zeroed after 10 rounds

67747

25 yds off hand 10rds
67748


25 yds off hand 11 rds
67749

Is this great shooting, not really. Considering this is a first time AR15 shooter using mix & match parts with OTC (American Eagle) ammo. it's pretty good.
If a 66 yr old retired school teacher with arthritis can do this. You can do the same if not better. ALL with off the shelf moderately priced AR parts

[brutal]

Build to a budget.

Buy a matched set, get a lower with the snubber screw, or just put in an accuwedge.

All of my AR's have an accuwedge, even the tier1 Noveske N4 that I bought as my first AR before building the rest.