View Full Version : Suspension thread
As some of you may have seen in the off-road thread, I'm going to be replacing a lot of my suspension components in the very near future on my 1999 Isuzu Amigo. I'm going to start this thread in case I need help with something, as I don't want to clutter other threads.
I may end up taking pictures as a how-to, but not sure.
I've ordered the parts for the following, and will likely run into other things to fix since this is an old truck that I doubt was maintained regularly. I've owned it for five years now, but only 25,000 miles.
All four shocks
Rear springs
Front HD torsion bars
All new front ball joints
Low profile bump stops
Rear brake line extension bracket
Rear diff fluid and gasket
CV boots for front
My first questions is about the rear diff. I've never changed the fluid in a diff before and I can't imagine it is much different than an oil change. Do I need to drive the truck a bit to warm up the fluid so it drains better or anything? It's a Dana 44 with an LSD, so I had to make sure to buy the gear oil with the LSD additive. Other than that, it sounds like drain, pull cover, change gasket, fill. Anything else I need to look out for?
Sounds like you know what to do already. I can say that you should wear nitrile gloves or something to keep the nasty, stinky lube off your skin.
Copy that. I've heard people not want to use synthetic in diffs with LSD out of fear that it'll be "too slippery" for the clutches. Anyone have an opinion on that?
gnihcraes
11-02-2016, 20:12
might get a can of brake cleaner to wash out the diff before you re-fill. Get out the nasty sludgy stuff.
Had the same tip in a text a minute ago. Good idea since I'm positive is gunked up. It feels like it doesn't want to coast very well last time I drove it.
newracer
11-02-2016, 21:02
When you put the cover back on let it sit for a while so the RTV has time to cure some before adding the oil.
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I have a gasket, and the manual calls for RTV on the gasket. I assume if I have a gasket, use a much thinner bead of RTV? Thanks for the tip on waiting, I probably wouldn't.
gnihcraes
11-02-2016, 21:57
I have a gasket, and the manual calls for RTV on the gasket. I assume if I have a gasket, use a much thinner bead of RTV? Thanks for the tip on waiting, I probably wouldn't.
yep, it won't take much rvt. pretty thin coat - smooth it out thin and wide with something.
Nothing like the smell of burnt gear oil.
I have a gasket, and the manual calls for RTV on the gasket. I assume if I have a gasket, use a much thinner bead of RTV? Thanks for the tip on waiting, I probably wouldn't.
I use either a gasket, or RTV. ran into problems using both. Learned the hard way doing a water pump on a Camry. Had to do the whole timing belt and WP again because it leaked. Never had issues since. The absolute best RTV is Permatex "Right Stuff". You can get it at NAPA.
OP, any particular reason you're replacing springs? also, I'd fill the differentials with synthetic fluid, it lubricates and handles heat much better than conventional.
Everything is worn out on this vehicle. Since I'm replacing things, I decided I might as well lift it a bit at the same time.
Right Stuff is the bomb. Its the only rtv like substance my dad uses in his marine business. Its the only thing that survives in a sea water enviromet too.
Martinjmpr
11-03-2016, 09:34
Copy that. I've heard people not want to use synthetic in diffs with LSD out of fear that it'll be "too slippery" for the clutches. Anyone have an opinion on that?
IIRC most manufacturers of LSDs have specifications of what type of lube to run. Also some LSDs require a "friction modifier" in the diff (I think my 1990 Montero did and I had an Auburn LSD in my '99 Ranger that did as well.) I would go with whatever the manufacturer recommended, if that's dinosaur juice (vs. synthetic) then run that.
I know Isuzu had some relationship with GM in the US so I'm wondering if your LSD might be the same as the G80 differential on many GM vehicles (including my '04 Suburban?) If so there should be lots of "institutional knowledge" available on what lube would work best.
It is a G80 differential, but I think there are things unique to Isuzu (maybe). I'm on an Isuzu board that is pretty helpful and one of the knowledgeable guys says pretty much any 90 weight gear oil will be fine. The manual doesn't say anything, of course, and manufacturer only specifies the weight and the additive. I had dino oil with the modifier, then took it back and bought full synthetic with the modifier instead. This truck can use all the help it can get with gas mileage and I figure I'm not a poor high school kid anymore so I can spend a bit more for quality parts.
I use either a gasket, or RTV. ran into problems using both. Learned the hard way doing a water pump on a Camry. Had to do the whole timing belt and WP again because it leaked. Never had issues since. The absolute best RTV is Permatex "Right Stuff". You can get it at NAPA.
The diff hasn't leaked, and I pulled a piece of gasket material off the side of the diff last night when I was checking everything out. I think I'll go ahead and use the gasket since I already bought it, and just be prepared to do it over again if that doesn't work out.
fportmen45
11-03-2016, 13:54
Nothing like the smell of burnt gear oil.
Gear oil, Taco Bell, and body odor all smell the same.
Here is a group photo of the parts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VSB2jNkerkA_TPCAQcf2G5iOqjMKnDaHgg70t4LFPUhdM3JlGX 9saV-7ztBPCkwzN9WpdfnrWLqQweOjf1VLqyFkLhvW6VAc1W7b2xUpg oGFi-IJd4OHLmg-ht4ALtsMTzcG8Q4r7xdBVbU5D21ps3yPEiIj2hw4pBvzdseBsA MmW8Mt4v4l4fSAx2uDbAC-Ik_o-fkuoq6FzpH5WpjM12cp8RT0vMfglbnCoiJk6PnxPa5_oxef6lm cvHBkCGqUo8_mjLI78qrsT5xb2XMeqFZICzJXxvvYo9rAEj8rD XIr2b5W4Rxpb0A7wkeM1l2sqi6CSlBa6WRDD1Rhic-DxFRiM4LTpNwW1pkOwapq2VMNHlnrBUirXO57A5i-aKAnRBewPSqDT1tlGIxJN3QBC3-dsPN9-XnnpoR9uzT4Qywu7Tm0a1C8mfLQRjO_6FgcTiRoKGn5Kyjiv8U 5fAOV0_S6c5IDX-wKTDZKGyLcF-rPdQBEDzSNhSYQiIuHN0YOn6uNAOPH-rpa5qCYdhtKkHUXJFnK4vLASQuzXZvd7GULhi2PmIcqduGNxye PynbTqsTt1nn99g4823u0Cq5Fk_NsS7M1126dxWxktfwijL5El Lvgkw=w1689-h950-no
Got the rear diff fluid and gasket changed. Not really any surprises and the old oil looked a lot better than I expected; certainly cleaner than any motor oil I've ever changed. I started to get into the rear shocks and springs, but I can only alpha-male with tiny wrenches for so long before I need a break. Besides that, the shocks came with two different part numbers, but no indication which were front and which are for the rear. I've sent an email to Indy4x and will pick up again tomorrow. Hopefully, I can have the rear finished up by Saturday at the latest. Currently, the shock body turns when I try to turn the top bolt, so I have to mansplain to the shock tower that it needs to hold still (with a pair of pliers), making this very slow going.
Here is a short walk through for changing the diff fluid.
Here is the rear-end. The right side is jacked up in the photo, but you can hardly tell because the axle is still on the ground.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k6b5aSkS2c9O6Hwgwj6rU0pOxoz77fI2dCElxofoj3u0h6v47f rkMqmlNncbfigXlpooEWux7MBhU1sz0OX7J4F3wKhzT3oa9Nh5 6NQxA99o0xdX3Wu72xfXISDMpu1F6wZqLDlcBqHIq-CJP7GYSAcGnYiicrfr4coUQrsdqChKRlSyH8X9qjjUBLznMX-luWmy43A0_UeEVxEbahc5Oog3wyT4nF0MrosoMyz7HleV5eGln wv-qT4ed14LR1G8IBXyqY1fg-nTVGEgU-KRpWZh-wtNReBsL3nlHSaFBdkM7FtR4vPL8mm277PQpIZHxVv6y2ZtnnH PdLyD02AwQzrKNokRRRWqrl7I-34omdyYkb2tgLUKTseHL8KAUryP2e6h2aBuAcIks5JrV7lDgjU 9KXJLgmfiEw9QLjuC7-t2Z3VK50AhMUaGhRnM_PtbQV8LwweEfjsGVc1ZxyybmHfjXMVk bga706cMIsz-J1_7Aw0PfnAOxq1zyMYhoatyFKJhkwPU6SU91n-5-ATZJAvSPdMVrNA_bVXsk8lr__IBUhWBlSSiVx0SXy9nsevbqLq IQ_k9R1XESEU3IZ9kH-89ZPeLuY4zNxEBmO9hRA-xBLTm9Q=w1689-h950-no
That thing in the middle, sometimes referred to as a "pumpkin" is the rear differential. Here is a close up:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nqLhYlZPVUKwjC1EO5lK4JTMH7uWnnHtud0y2QbOlqJpinYa24 TJQmD0lUPSd4Wcj46ElWsaUp6Z9kfFgYGq42yaFRmPdCTy_BVx vWwhz5lP-u_exMSR3nlalEayTyQr0_GdW47deo-IEWagtT9msWNrrWbgTEkwHcIOBOe4POsvIWDFuC87e3rei9L1N IVzlSgWskdDlhOMQuoNj_fOWOwkHsPepPjjs7WRUt9Ni-98Eetnernrks93TBihhUIv1Z1DKKg1mznWF4HYUfImyJMcF3Cu w6VajXsJ44nZHgFtMfMKafFiZy4Q2BJ1i03okeu9FC6YURYyWD jnUCJn6x1i6slPaMDGaUXBC91EMPq9lIvzpyMRx9USH6Zi1pMQ muf0NaLrdkMTPaC91Foyx51_9EuRhnPL4_HBhyOY4t6Yyz0AgO o9_4X1MMXDAyca3cn1zbRIXAPuyZYm8zg7QyB9E156SFrt5iYj Y6DQFhinf2yWEDoPndt7efe2GPseGJshAzBIbi5otNkuznP2BK Cb5ipy_eXvW073xhklcRwyun6muDwKHdLIbJXrgkLInAf4w3pt XX0m64-CdUC-shAavsmXIgBFfAmGdQU-iHgT5jSkXw=w1689-h950-no
In my case, the bolts are different lengths so it's important to keep them in the same hole. Before I started, I traced the holes in the gasket and slit the holes with a knife so I could push the bolt into the corresponding place as I removed them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FGT85D_d3n0dVkgu-uygrqd2mMoxNcFMw20xzmXvvWWBWP6mY-2UHDha9YjwaoxWBWsOYdyc92x_iXXjeoKFW_CfuU6ROZGrO_so LPb0-XAvCACdozu0fGVqW2C4Dg4hw1NloTSpuzUqN9B_uBnlRThJYiq B2Dwo8gkIPBhZi7eM8MMVJBy3VdRIGynPJWIA4sCXlxrmlGkLt MVrer18tYGT-vG5-7sxeQDz7bL5xEwTxIjt_EXIZ6qvTHIT1ZMS4AHmox9F03ozxeY M9MehbMqJMx6HBwQv9UKQN9glWSsVlBAXl0rixq9wO9CqS9q6s oiZ8veZAcgStzEv-LNWc-s-Xpeix6f7osPJKGWXzMEFhtqBmrgQQaC1pd-lTteKsvhn81NGFa8MuNBrI4aaj6_IbJeS2Z6Fkv8XE1XhngOC4 6c1zDhFOagxyZBStQTBC3AkAf4QFi13tfnOPUC5NbX_1JRH8qh VhLaA2yGnGuZzNujuZyTwWoG5kFDDa0Ypg7NF7PriqtuiwyxyP 4DJAI1EwQxXhMBqsJSrZAZfSP6XpYuKsFpNo3TMEqoGFfRDmTZ bH4NJjANthWDxf9CIkdgze1Hze5Vcqd8_zPmCsIL69qkpZg=w1 689-h950-no
While I was at it, I made-up a star pattern for retightening the bolts. There are 10, so it's basically two star patterns, slightly off-set.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iRDVAK4lSjsXqqvXwDDGns8-U7ZVbMyyXeHtpDt0jbbb5fs4dVzGYLZMrEXRyhdCWY2MxLdILR 2L2tE6SGdZmnxhF1Kp7tsALKZSjD4pcPnJ5hQOkpMAK_m9h5At BBzrdAmDL6ZrokMfftMRW40FX_WgOS6E5uWVcbY33wzQl3ubvl 0N6DHFmou_ouHt55aEKshzdGPtLS49Aiokj2NO_iKF-nwORFM3BRTb5dLG_Md2StRE6HlP9Qu4gtTGUDhkg52SOii6vFk HY3m8ic8p4ZxcZT_Cr_1cR1bjwVtAIMZlGFd_wq-8f6To-kY5Hfyuf6-h0ZtHtbD26IYyr5frg3tbtad_wPTOXjjM15hx8OgAniozQCYda SNBkuL96yc1Y0dO-HRPhIpVq_ubY2J9PHV5iHyWEz6cKz3YHB-mkuzWif2K4QW055w4yF_mac5_5bv4y12npwwENDrocQ0FOgNV6 Ed-8wJsEd6TqKM9BI5JHcvRnJbSleXv1o-HT8yERZI8zdKtZChwcB1jB5NDartQEv6zjp5PEGZp70LHGM2LR S6T9SGAJTBwJEm3v03jH26mCCevvm4BJ1gJ1WUICk5hZmgWFSp 5qB_9glaLcCjzENhUfA=w1689-h950-no
Start by removing all the lower bolts, and only loosen the top two or three bolts. Next you'll gently put a flat blade screw driver in the gap and gently pry the cover loose. The cover will separate and drain all the fluid, and the top bolts that were only loosened will hold the cover for you. There isn't much fluid, so once you start draining, you can move straight to removing the top bolts and most of the fluid will have drained by that time. Then you're looking at this: TIP: Try to brush/scrape off as much crud around the top of the differential as you can before removing the cover, this prevents that same crud from falling right onto your gears.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bl6i3aWecN4f_F4a-FXCvc-lpqjrYezmZdtqzKMAecyLlwUocGHVc0v2cSP3k9Kj09bPvdVdW FagKrKbsy1mhnlXOJfPqnAf5l9Nub2ZficH3iCOptpdClQSEc0 bfUEqGD2b5V8hPX2XX3ThRzU660733VuRcL68I0ncw2GEqnTis MrVpsUS-TxAedVwCqkWTqCb13e-8qkVlMqjskPdzyNva0LOQYICXcNqjG-3FcTpdEFO6glUX46Zn6xWIOm64t1QUdw7ol7tKndHrhb374KxA jQebZfwKmSUDnAlNFmZOiPb9jfSWGDKaMpFdLHmE0IGIcD-OC5z-a3vtb7RHmR7EHfPWlRwHQ6Vfm-q01ij7lMo80-wauelaF7qYNlUfB1x5DbqrtUshZX0NUjIXh0CK6aaL3NAm6na7 Kgy7Zhc7XyCSl7sBLj7rwRhtAGFnHv5R3Lr87Isv21436losS6 ybbaa-hGcEMA0AzDh5xtcRFYo72hQFDva10Zkwoa6U-oe7WDzC2kry6vYEWkgKg-TKT4rNL0Bt0gyKqLX4yE8b3R0K3Yg8kabyLmdN-LlqY0Hbv9aOBrM5LWplg0ApIUuGihnG1OzA8mRm1jDsi5N15Wv Gg=w1689-h950-no
Next, spray out the differential with carb cleaner to flush heavy build up out. You'll also want to scrape off the remainder of the old gasket/sealant around the edge on both the cover and the diff housing. Be careful not to gouge the metal, as that will increase your chances of a leak if the surfaces are not smooth. In my case, the diff housing is steel, but the cover is aluminum so I had to take extra care not to gouge the cover. Once you're done removing the old gasket, I'd spray out the housing again. Here is a picture after spraying out housing, but before removing the gasket material.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aO-Bvt_nv-ky7JTBHki_wpO8FUl486T9JjaLdfNFJtgUwfSzRMD6beMtJCN6 Eef0dded3doxuba0RmfHVrDUNfMavSD2arHOAG6FW71pDIvMGL k8IiYXRE82EUgZ_7rCEeP7WhxoOr9Kiy2PRgIEUg9JVK18pFfS PnVXJP7JA8WXNE02OW9lX6Ud7xGk3XzW5Nlh0RDkPADjB3vJY6 IcR8pruJyyeqUct6zyNjNPrbNkG8tNmjeXG6cd6fvATZxx7CgJ wtKg9Uft56Mu3ujdJOR8u1seGya5fuOB8PLmhS18Py5hJwA1DT k9eH8RUjI7FW2N-xMJ3aYuM-jbyLpiQq7vhfcvpJzhor8s7D5Z8esm5ve5INAuD2pWjt2i6kYj joviDfBBHMSiyK9O52PI6e-L6gtaSuZ1k2pSogbSmrf0zNKoKRmXZwl0W0QrV4eCdKsrJE0GV FONRXReL0FZp2GVo9p_DFcPxPK4Lx4WQuhboRErRcgdJcZRHkU k9qRlfbYGASJ1qWybwSamgF_EeuOLQ-XQb9lMVCORVu3D6IDIzbbrswz0f-UmqQb_6rsrF2XtQbwS4BTOW2Lv0XuAcnRCoaam-v9CKyXin-f9NysjbN6_6A=w1689-h950-no
The last step is to replace the gasket (if you're using one) and fill the differential. If using a gasket, run a small bead of RTV sealant all the way around the cover. When you get to the bolt holes, you'll want to run the sealant INSIDE the bolt holes. Place your gasket on the cover and press everything down and make sure the holes line up properly. Carefully place the cover back in place and tighten down the bolts. You'll want to wait the specified amount of time for the sealant to set-up before you fill the diff with oil, check the sealant for instructions.
In the case of this differential, the plug acts as the drain plug, fluid level check plug, and fill plug. The easiest way to fill is to get a length of tube that fits inside the fill hole and over the nipple of the fluid container. My diff only require 1.9 quarts, so I needed two bottles. With the first bottle, I put the tube into the diff, the nipple into the tube, then held the bottle above the diff to drain the fluid inside. I punch a hole in the bottom of the bottle to help flow. DON'T punch a hole in your last bottle! When you get to the last bottle, you pour fluid in, until the level of fluid inside is level with the bottom of the fill hole. Basically, you fill the diff up until extra fluid starts to drip out. A flashlight is helpful here as you can look into the fill hole to see if the fluid level is correct, as you'll be spilling fluid every where by this time anyway.
A little history, the last few times I've started the Amigo, I thought I hear an exhaust leak. While I was laying on my back messing with the shocks, I noticed that it looked like the exhaust was a bit kinked. I started looking around a bit and found that indeed, there is an exhaust leak. Looks like that will have to go as well. I'm not sure, but it looks like I may have backed the exhaust into something at some point and it kinked and snapped this bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5CYhJVRY2q941nTbYwFdm7M7kqbladIgNHwJOeL4HRnNHlM7Hz foYUj5c0B4F_PMpRN7h04ypLA7x0u65mLfNvynh8ywBnYnbVnb MNZHvU0ycvy5iuYYzdfnpQUz1VgqNmDg9opSyOed135Y7i8bDn QXuvJtArdMvm9y2nJFv7FZ8GYdtspvGl2NMePS6u_ARQAmUjMx OsBQHXDEloCsG_jbOwNsS6wjQXAmi2UOunU83VXcx1psAVNtwO u5E45r_lFSeT1jf1dRc7bG7GQbHm3FTiP2BK2LHybma-OibnjhNmAtAzU2la89yQlPqrU4JZeJI0ccYLm_NIqlR9QM2Gpn m9hyaBIAdgQfzjiwDas3_VBntR8WrMaMHc5f7LqG9eVh-TwzTJBTM5iwbUxxHTEXDCDDF9_PWDSP1noKYBMHIEU8B52KQNQ XYfKnVmF_u9tzA7ukHgJ298YrJhHn8DCGZSrCYrL9ybLC2JZD-qzBCVf5r0SCJAh26qxmW0YzjeLM3X7L4VVWPeQA4_rpdsy7y3K m8nSt3gzcHpIERQ4BgXLM0Eph8M0vDl22STKEwxu8lWcOATLJp e00qqQJ6RmVYF8406VFTd7DZLqIVpT0PhXKCA=w1689-h950-no
Not including drive time, I'm only working about two hours a day, or less, right now. Lots of things are getting done around my place.
Kind of, but let's not clutter up the suspension thread.
In order to remove the spring, the shock must first be removed. Also disconnect the sway bar on either side, and disconnect the upper rear trailing arms.
Here you can see the old shock is connected at the bottom and the top, only two bolts. Got rust? I cut the cover off the old shock because the top nut was crusted on so bad that the body was turning instead of the nut. I have to grip that top plate with pliers in order to loosen the nut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ymR9iqH6Zr4A61vZ9hLTMPR6U29ZCXXXhE4rxi5enDrZQ7Svbc oBb227XFOMXR1RpMvFbaEyqQIPhjhS3tAND-vyVfxD5tMhtJcaPhHzRJXa3ozMc5g81YyYB1DW6VDdiMkJsEXe QtOAErTLDKNEYh-fXRwt1pCGfAO06fGP7vdzW1KvsDFXlETtjzvJZnTJ9An5EPjXe XhsMkRj5GcixaOBm5mzBIY2vuHCNeZZUtYFTwfDGyXGkCIKjQS 3Gzg6MRCRFgwqhCHaD6OZeWLIrEKX0c-eAeUvSerDEEMz1xTm0UtFmwYQ0IbEEai7NQq7X-fsKNHFaKJImehfE7rr9b3ra490BLHAQHSYkv_6xUXN0yzom6a5 Yf1aqhmESxFnA8NFjCLO_MphrEVO7-EMrDUJmhLVy6M8b2iYgmHGrs42PoQwPfYV2-heQDN95lWqnUsmvoea8sovNI1qqewV8QOW5txJTcPx-_tKNwB4NQT03EjhhjBdAyxZhGWuIYAIIlJWUF4p3WU-TSUsIFXKUojrhCd_J09i6xMceq3HHUETJTyvcZa2QtDEtya_lw zwYfXbAaSxg_gxbONXwKQPosL2CtsmpYetJbkr6mX9hzhz14gO NQ=w1689-h950-no
Just to the right of the spring, you can see where the upper trailing arm connects. This is where I broke my ratchet that I was using as a breaker bar. I have an actual break bar (that I purchased after the last time I broke a ratchet), but it didn't fit as well. In the case of the Amigo, this trailing arm will limit the amount of flex once you get into the 3" range of lift as it hangs up on the fuel tank. There is a bent trailing arm on the market, but I doubt I'll wheel seriously enough to be worth the purchase. We'll see.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mHkavg0J4AWA6D9X3UEAObPe36tQCTEH_IWYtvDXs3wkUjRPud GKdLqYQ8ZWTOyy01sPSwoiBG7V98m4pmdH1YJ7cgk829lYEKdU yAIyI2vbHydP38MbPzSYoKlDr0jnA91Qg9k0MyvlpnxtYR9BsT lX8Soj3crH4lBP3vN_isnTkmJBN5K2RPlfJdgjGU7OcqI1PsPj Ce4jQiUkihIh0YnTmWUMzJxdgUGanJnxea9kU_mUy4_b8_DXZF 7Dl4KHoDphE-A8kdbk4yXLfjtr26IU5WyoVC8k4RA1L9scY9moEYEVMbfsIOp1-kVmafOvLomfeKiXyHz10E-UtH8oMzu5JEGuLvUx_KSqOjoVJQowsHrOUarG5B53QnjAl7M1m tQnicQY7qYw--RUMEVohZ2yDE8IPDJyUJsAo0SYP9-5pllDaZl-hTnqLQzpYAk_Nkwe-8uzw3xuV90LRg0_j64Fr_LbR5xsm-30TDZVkT0bpSa_ru2QSmdci9jmXdNroANGunTBPsqoYh-G-DOotYiqM19njmDq4zAjR_1PRRrp7ENIwVpVtmdO7hR7y0piCb8 LqAr-_1gBll56e0AmyOHjckc3l-3akjP3maKgbOV6LRcU5w=w1689-h950-no
Old vs new spring. The springs are Moog CC247. Not much taller than factory, but much more stiff, which provides the lift. Stats show lift up to 2.65" on a Rodeo, with an additional 1" for Amigo/Rodeo Sport since they are lighter in the rear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a2dUYeBsqtPltkAGNvlndVW4zapwmaMnGlpo16L6a7nvtXv2sF Nh3o7ZGDHAH0ysM3iH69aznJs6BujMp3fL68mf0yEbwQrlpfEI mLW-AF7acUJ9UyGW4k1R-kmqug0eW1lPLx0at3WimbZLgw8fHzIU39pYh66tWftRUojBFiC e3ULrAuEKfPVoT8CEoj6hmwl5CkRWf7chtpZntSMT5NKxEqqqj 1vHWRCSHzN3S-XdecymeHAf8ybpK--hx0fQiCPie1jVVavuuw50bK5rkx_Ymbdms_kX6Qt1arhOXqIcS QhvAWhqmTIMbmRPeRiGqCIup0UudEghNlUPMkmBTXi4k_n1bGP Gkd11hw7bXLzAixlNTdjDzmLQJNPA9yG8CM_rea73YrLyVR13O noTwgJET_DDr4ZV9MjgTAnBSx1cwRoPXr65NSWgPqKbxnzWLVj 1eM-eI4YfNamZjGKKaHg4AtW3JzapV_vBP7yHkehadHM0BscifHJ6T BElZ-OPAKMGTIG_Mjst8z18Y-8QEgVlsvM7y0HTKA-tUfJ3RNn8ix3FIL7w0A_tp4S83Hu-Ivphh_T6EBEIXBBYO4WCAiBCu51YyaSYMIvhKLePgwSZL-vQFg=w1689-h950-no
I was able to get just the driver side spring in last night and had to call it quits since all my ratchets were broken at the same time. Found out they have a lifetime warranty though, so that's nice.
Rear is done now. I have to give thanks to my wife, who actually laid around on the ground and got dirty helping me. She actually installed both shocks and the right spring and helped bolting stuff back together. Also get to thank my neighbor, who torched off the right shock top nut and only barely started the Amigo on fire at all. Really, very small fire and I was ready with the extinguisher, which didn't function the way I thought and I had to learn on the fly.
Driver side after install.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XY05yvcWOaN1VF_gS6qwKyPl2xl4_hUKKg_thnEHeCyL8F3UUW UXoQ9wqeiMn2Bb2_mgq1-22t-FBA5g-EpTx00-KUarcTT0Ew0gv4MvX1pH8XU7hAHK-7c12iRIvKyqaVLYHAcxEoGqWjSx_JDbygH9SKAr2Qd8E0NVT9P T3IzJZAjqBnOMmUE2JQau3aI9S9ZblhUiJ8e7QuGxv6aVuGcUj 6vE3vGoBp-inMSdAY2jjNeJSqMqVbEDO1kk8RnvTrihNbyNWuRLqWhSLZVyf wVAmBPoaiaUK9JP1eE175UjU9fL2c0U16GMpRhMoOdWaNKKVai TFilWHhps74_-zF3etOSenvmvDR81X4vgmrkb6UZdmrsrZsqPv_t0SPwLzU1wn0 XOq7mKmT9vRqAS3GymYw1ZkMK2TtkaC4apB1VMnvrAPWrn8z4n-BrNIQo7flHUEY5Wl17Y46VmgB-lk3CCWhU5efYPnlKogEn8yhHzaNBReovMW2vKEcXHpmmP9LGk5 pxkHFLOhutzZDBJURJ1SzxpEhaV71W7_mkLM_tmxbsZ0-ztTz1miCEdGN4YV0eHv6nFO7JZaHFq9XvqfY2cn-rJLGX8_6n3Sh1cmWXBn5OLnA=w1689-h950-no
The shocks are VERY tight. Think I should figure out a washer or bushing of some sort? They don't really move much at the bottom, but I'm worried about vibration over time. Excuse the fire extinguisher residue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V67LFNJ1COzP-kgLJbpzc3msE93pXi6ZVyx_L3aIi6J6D16-ZJ12a7vsMg2YmY412HAc9pE9W8MmP9ztid9XzWgbVdcOvjsoxM GgGkquhLXzYIkJz21nMvPdLOP1i8z3ukGGzX4EwidANkKCXpET Rl0Ks0CYJBxaKoNQ-Z4Ml24q_efgwOSArp_sOuvcNGruZOVhtY5T1MxqvbN6xxDCuvI gWDvfz2dS7hm0Cmg1FrpLMWZrWmgFtiHvfkJTdnWsC4dVtlV8a D9rRl4-bOyAyetje-64_thCtkNvJz8fvmiMzl-HlDHuWdF6tS2LkcwgDT6wcs3c5tUV9jDSykpfkmMhpFdHlDrl3 PQHtqsK1gTtl6Ck7ZZhbwpFl_VLKfRx3kYDWbWrf0mJch-s8g0-pyrpOHnFyXJiuSHfuQEECUo77hJT2nMBVU0wN3WtWX0DaWJYXn B2xojlPPtH6KBSI8h7jxrOBNQcethGvQm3LgpIgF8jOIU_45XG Ixumwj2rB5inc9NZaQ5I4zDpbxwy40iidlC2nAMdhj9Pa4jnnv IfuOMuV1jmV4gP90s3r9ktyQlWHVyquVjSWn_O--yGL09sUctWzv3YmrwBY5cox83y_JaWrQ=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jh2yECAHpEca6gmGo52FYOkYxPNdqDiD-NFArlY5ttdcxIU6o17ktDi3sI5eoUiT75o9CFSxDYLRpAPiYDV HEaf04ZeJwU32SKp9lnzJHPTzB2KlhcGYdzK8PlliVPNwHQJ1s cN5EUnfZ66YHRxVuhuBXPHgYIfxWLA8F8wOK4G3QhOqphy47te _4GzvOG7zghKuU4-MusXYc7Onk8nlVTZvNRdQEou7jNvTCRmBESobQK1XQ6NFVv6ax vSvCVb5MzZj8KPBgQIo-7ObruPXH1VNb6upu3z2EspEIqcMRsmq8frFintvp03CLpVDDNd RHTEgbeOFX_VoUqA8jyXrpZ47aV-K_INrugutLNjJ9FHqnv7SJjePGLwpr9F7p3kpR-YoWPKu2ZR28wWO-VZRGhYpUFAjYm2lfgDogw08JLZ05I8HqbOtb5nINNyrmhNAS1j tIJOmaKycJu7rQ-Ha6RPgzh1DO8JzOEetLMwVRN1N2SF9rTSeTqHwBRgigroi13f9 tHJgIpiJyMBZewhBohWNWBTDeO2aloTURvR7tDzPCl80xrAo9J LAutXFed5z2AwVPu3iqECPyoucqCGc8s9RU7hDoTq52GOU7033 46A7xFtHdA=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9HsTeg5ozqzJp8RZHMEnGqEkW2FgXHEvb3tKQ3ktuhKkw1nYh_ mToHUKY634eAMrzivHmWa7YHjXieYWm53yOCz9KaGCylG85FlM ztQc8FsO3_chl7ARoMl1K_TYLaTAYJvMahSoeqfbJpIu77btZe P_Vc_yZyiV3QjIe1s6gxAx99hHL3wxQQP9VokiDAf1P1413zDe T-x0WiOB_JoR2FTMv5NxpL7X5JOvvmiQ0bFyIXeEbC2hYR6e2iaa lUSlN7Q1aC5VrYw1hORJXTdtlrmxBzGIj3CScBQdBbG63RrJNH syXOZcXTtiOtIvL1wuGExmv0dsTMCDAlk_V9ErTbm33Z9GYoYe 4d91G8RYCqFGxW6Bj5Ij59h9SHIgfZJTDWQCX-8_o8soOLTmLFDMk6AWYttH8zWgt_f1xFgPcTkB52YA_KAXvG6o 7zDKQS_u6qft3HmXjB6jNXpxZ_Tp9ZbQ3gy2WTGa3sJX049D3r OFqeCkQc7o2rxm54z6N19gt92VxqR2WXvafGM3kl3DqQ_RzLTV ImnyuaVUjK9JK8Q2A_5KlhmqORNZ3EiqmV5mWJ3v3FTn1-iyhrLc-RA-dEFfVxNBh-_GyWiIXT8B9VBK6Evkw=w1689-h950-no
Protip! When you reattach the upper trailing arm, the axle will have relaxed and it won't quite line up with the bracket. I've read other people struggling with this and inviting lots of friends over to coax it back into place. I was looking at this thing imagining all the swearing, kicking, sledge hammer, and bloody knuckles it was going to take when I had an idea. Using this jack made it almost a one man job and was easy and gentle. Highly recommend this method.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CjxCGgFYUm1v0uq28yvJc6GSx57M2DXGDWPauaEsyIqOaTogZM ekS-eT2z87niTgMziJm5f8dqxWfPwGa7H-HdU2gzJdBR7ygVCVzsOqLsw2aYbNk7Me3OuP1CH4dGp26umRdC MMQWF1inhkgtbKJa6w89xXdJxUQAqk1GOK9qtl5EQLB7D6EHir 3HojgTSA5aaBCmYHDAY4tzWJB5BpkyNghqjoMryPz3cj7BpyIb RSOkI_kmNaMGa4WD6rYmEixY79Zh6V3dUnFi36f8025QGSHage 89237Z24DPWOR657dCYwANk2Y3Tz_jWSApKlG1fPAiXLUEEdWw iGPw-RwQXO46NjVUoIObhjU8CxjDgPhnAdnqL2LS0kw3TMMf2r8wrNX yxjzcuAqSbrh9HIOhFY4atQYKbLN1c5XbrsWT_RY-Z9rEkVieVFGR2J8HHLvFzDFHE2Yj5K-0Ts6C9ioJJW5u2xaELon8aCLRoGRQVe_lqH0OvVRYz3J5suA4K u6LZVeqyB5hwy02poZohg7iwXaeTgkCPgvWNLyZVv9RPcviitd C_ih1Jn-xfbZZt2kU7wcJcEX47BJSXQCR5E7OgxGcU8fH_wE6T9szXSlvm 3YP5nTQ=w1689-h950-no
Terrible night photo, I know. I'll take one during the day tomorrow before I get it back into the garage to start on the front. Back half is done at this point.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IJL9xg4M-ikpCjpUdYOOJYso38iuzQowvcQ10INHbKh8OQFaZGGqmPe5Z5x ZnvgMxuKq0DiyAoVFsSVNSEWGtk5hXix8ycMU9CxjthQ4emuOJ fSUPm-6vE6Mfpzi6snzlwaLoNU6bULMXcl8tt1PXnxJeG4-3bR6X3f1YInP77dF3v4Zbb_N78zIEjFCtHAfNRd42Cf-qJwu2Xjvc7OOkCRjMXT6jazgQAJhKQ5-R0Xv_GK5t3ePV0uMYBpKvF4riPTA5eZ2hjJ1iYfM-2QG3i4VnsOwY6RVT9daKMCMvg5M7jzqL5Z5u_uQnu3fg90rdrA 4ZFSoRUghE6XnZeby8znYleRGG9yfyUAm25HV6J1lPGBOTZkyv je-0QYHW8r2FHQJzgUemJvs1bXI2eg76uyJB-UiBMBq0XY9s6st0o8aAdgWEIqt_HASyr23WxiAqYg9tUOws0ee NEQ44LPPd3z-p8d54C2xKHkoItNpYFi0X8ca_ixcjLsDDxduDfvaM8ZnN5aJlw 0oL8JUW6JnF98dAUqDvy7atXHtwwc_ups9GYM3FEyNuxJxIikZ LlRZs4lnI_CL5DgTdthL1Hv0EfoXQzms928qFI2Y1q0ZRhEO8L yqhw=w1689-h950-no
Daytime pictures. About to tackle the front. Hopefully it's not like the rear where what should take 3 hours takes 2 days due to rusted on parts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9F-_61vbVUYBZratXE9R1PghRrzQLzG3nbjB-WKms2AFkHPWQTyRD1m6oClu0dLUsmgGLwh0fy0x7gLdyRWDuFs cdTwyVGlR0RwXonvijAlp7weQgPYT9ETEgd7ihPLoo3PTFk_Qn rXjj1cUcmMn_HxxNBUOzrkR9c1MUop5ge3Nw2KBgy4iKUbZbWK ETi_CEz0FH9IOhjD3Bce3py8Rxu048KP_9tQzLEjgioblyQd4t 3NGonZbotIwgup8En0k8qf1dGrdLNt_XBP2wfg0SxHcqZUyiEI NN6k6o7SnMh3aczoWZmxHOsmG-fCigVOIY7586xGJvHf_zmWvg7r6ymnZ2oXalwXQSDdJP_hVcdA g0iX3W4tMsCoLGA5Sb6b4cmavUWXK2z1to9C9mQCTF7MtOsGrg WdqWWaak6GTDHM9rWwgt8TL1b-DJQVIbtccI0N7ay4-5cH0emWWK47552oyI2ed4vwMl3UA0Km5V9uUJihE5s5ljnk0gG Mm_aLWgHhO1ONBT3pr6gqqHZ3BjOmqwejPaD0Mm7iG0uL5g3RO-oCniwbrgOV6gPNf4Mdq0x-9dTvgMWvzsyOfTKPLg6ozAFSdOl1FfzQcB5LujQzOZSikMg=w1 689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/biH9YttatixVcoCom8ed_i2JS8wuLO9oQfcOV7vDNBIjaS9EO2 2WQ9RhkWp9zk76ax-8gKPGGji9MXEHUw1x4tfHxNsdXkWsF0HEk8YjrfM7kPxuI-Bx8VBQD7Kx56pA-5yrSzY-hrdGpVLfAfbdRrL8MR-zPnMTIIaYsp6IGWQ17mManyZre6BscCQUYhwelw4fXFiR4sCSA fGoDp4Tsx7z5gEUboR1eC3Gg-we7kzsufuHHSO5QIsuVNbz4qZlIq9oWZt9CBIesuS51QkxtsiJ CuoF3uIjl4O1frwswmyPzYLS-dOOibU4MZPCQToK_swKm1Q12LkfHwCI2m0PtbXQI8G52jnaFlF spkP_2zy1jrH5R0mGKU078MKkaQFCjXvVoibeJn2f0Cib-QeLOhZt40C-XoYOpmaDPAtNxy4pCaHRGnXKHHcNm0jvRc0OYGpesY5-hMBqflrTWdYP4JnkpugcHABAebGxFuF5zZK-muuSfZheBT0qK0PsayUaMs6S14gJJSvXO1yNdvQ756G5lJfoEx t7cPcbE9ZuNA6HJ2gsvxgFpT7XcFB_Hv26zKgHocCoX1WuqmGW-cXHM0z1L8BE2cNzdydpj6xjivIwHY7TzQ=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n3ItrqXXWWZWEZ0RbmRea-p5lGW0iFRbr3nj2HIvz2lNSeeCDmxlv6PdJNfZTHTzeC-wh7j5i8gNu9zfsx02K5a148nPBRcWU6IBdHFXmVmUV-jpDWE-nCa-G3wRUsXN3SjU_z11u4WdvlzSRMs9Nkk0ZEpHLLvsBXZzGiaN2m _Xs99nFZX0b_9HCuBqGKerqqQWQcZyeig8Hxg5In3UnDUoTXIH FhguXCAuG2coriUmm7kQIQBiBwOgUwd1lMVOpSVJxFaa1SW1_P IRjTjlZETiAirbbg8_og6DjrSSdltHFQ1PR6RkFaMhHw54hNIv MabsLJL8o43oJvjGYiyInpT0rjsi1uDdxwSPgyMiog9aidZrxT qaxx_HEacAjpux-zZVUySzV8HvEUyPGQCaYAfQ8fGVMLYwdfn8cVXXSQ5hMm5u8R-yzyJ2KBXXg8as424_JFjZpHXRpx9QSA7x4e1YxIWqKsRVNnCw-B7o900GNazbf7CovwEbB0obpd9Hpi-6FdGZ6_iI0FOJ-IB-he7CgcOWKlLRohBrEF6WN1UHs_i3_Y5ZAUHAP6b4DWKmKSiVq6 AonJEzThWzQ01X4wU1toDVhufeM3TzEwP0BxdX9Xy02Q=w1689-h950-no
You should leave it like that. And grow a mullet.
The nice thing about torsion bars is I can raise or lower the height with a turn of a bolt. Then I can gradually lower the front end as my hair grows longer.
You should space the shocks out just a bit. Looks like they'll rub and may get damaged.
I agree. I think even a single washer would create enough space to relieve it. I think I'll remove one before I go to Napa and see if I can find some in stock. If not, hit up Home Depot or Ace Hardware.
Washers in the rear worked perfectly. Wife was going to Home Depot so I challenged her to bring me back the correct washers. I sent her to the store with the factory washer with instructions of inner hole at least as big, outer diameter no larger. She had to ask three different people before she found someone who knew exactly what she was asking for, "Oh is this for shocks?" and she came back with something just right.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_ek5t5jZ6Dl7y7bekTRns_5Ihi9TFRqXOhWcU1PJl3mZu5M9D6 6HaGcrGmmgUhHCRveHTvcsBbJNobR5iK6HNrrxsy-a-aLpLnKBkaUuQ2m2bmMEY-_W-VaELo9HAqd4JIRbdXTe7fDqMuYlLX7eS8Wa-MnJNFB-PeT-DinMRIekDdjBPnwQPPgpccbbUnGGcoNpVFYvxiKfF4XWmUzzoJ 1k8QepUR4JRLtBsawvlV-eTLr2oRpsiuLoUNxm10EMRwW0RhVprGTIRVfLu5RmSTN62jx7v NTSFR1xhGWfOUC97K5L8r27f65Df30vrIZ6zjwl0jXMKhi0s6F Xf8xJqYKkT4oEiSw-d7Qpj4X3ikq1Eyic9GdO6K4VQu3QDIOqc0uA1Yv2qNJ0VWWZHT PAeJ1UeqB5M6FmQZPQ74yMTO_FEC4unngAKi3q3O-GT7HWN6FLpx0dHWlX7bObfsAa96vfwkyC9swxq_3aXH5Dady4O VWWd9EvLg9mEkTsmydj6pddVJ3LPNnIL99l9x33Er_DrPq6oc4 6NZxA9ogXdIyL7zOI0jrDZaW2VnBS0vgspJBWDxVdr3O2B0m-gDS_XReT8ud34THaQL-T_CmkN1g13iHpjw=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0TWWqusZDjoZueN5HnDiWErD3J6mbiVoqEp6NsQ4AN0I8aDDF7 zeZGXz9Ge7ByK0ODLBILf-Nprakhc57mz2XVGFtBjEkdfF5AWrA7L-9KhZ8BJWpXZoobr5rWSo-TbimRFFtW0OhgrjFvdw2IKIhqZROytHBpqLoDpC2dPFBRWhs_4 2ninjBy7RytUMxL4plsSmSQZIqF29RcyKgk7_A_81iG-8pmmLxwQ3IZYLLxBqTijNMnxjJjxVhFb-sGW60_N57Bec9KjWBC94sjYMI71xd6A1fDbHB-0HImeanLDTQu6LNGfQBzwyvftd5DD5c3obwFoVeALEURwgbbJm Z4tocI6FbPVme_Lyp4qkFYjH62mVsbd2Z2N8rjwF0bScGyWOAl ijpGrzwl7Xpjncf-TRmXoGwX8UA4LMoZH1Ob0NCFhK9rsruds46qCJrKKkLT88gpjf I58_5HvY9GmM7N0ikl5-teMVvLDm8Z7UQGom-o0dKfwU2_P3xwEbx9YQHe9_OSCmrIxL4Y6YLI5Cmxs6zOLajuI 2mcLx9KIbHcsg7TirN7yTDSmV3R8QZNWKMRBHHNb9RSBBoE1CH FxNdQJsmV_5ITnKJ0nl1nlEj1RThExA5A=w1689-h950-no
newracer
11-06-2016, 21:05
Remove the shock boots, they just trap dirt and moisture.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wish you would have suggested that 36 hours ago. I suppose if it's a problem I could always cut them off.
What if I just snip the zip ties on the bottom, so they are still "open" like the factory sleeves?
newracer
11-06-2016, 22:50
I'd just cut them off.
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Great-Kazoo
11-07-2016, 00:11
takes 2 days due to rusted on parts.
CRC or PB blaster is your friend. Like good tools, invest in some.
I've been spraying Luquid Wrench, then PB Blaster on everything since last week. I'm about to start my third can tonight. The issue is that the shock piston rotates with the top nut. Not nearly as big of a problem on front shocks where there is better access though. Poly insert and bushing are too wide on new front shock, requiring trimming. Easy fix, after an hour or so of struggling to find the easy fix.
Edit: I took a photo just for you. I'll post it tomorrow. One more shock than I'm going to bed. I barely have to work early tomorrow morning.
Greaseable sway bar bushings have been installed. I'm going to make extended, quick disconnects for the front sway bar while I'm doing all this. The rear sway bar has already been completely removed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/78XBzomrBsIJvYPAxynRtyeqoSyFmFSjUSLHiWxs-0nE9bbfTrWgmN1i_8DC3lOcQu4uN9PFWnZIHyXhBIOL-dm0AJ6sqMRFCdYSsJUjNQ3TxPbeKRBNVfJt8HvTnlXuKwJMTwM T2lMwDf56FP5IgDy71hH4pzDyHw9kr7SBQvg9C9FescMlJXbAi 3d_EvbuA9QXJ1Wjgh3NheWyCrNvjoMsm8K67XAFJKHHZrkO15k sd8iad3UDr_tIeYp3wSChCUjzu1jzgcEve_EVXVw0NZduWLv9h k9Gm_T-E_K1llwgD5CZBkb3sTTtBuFzDiXxKIYi9Qc0MxeMDzXiUccIUE SYbtcFcdRawcfe3alh4EG8gi_lpriBYZlGB6NmlojhaCbRpy7z EBkLtn9S6I2S-XONeAlHSa5B-jpAaVKlcSo0boUjF6qUXs-NI2wrcVJF_csmb44F5amD0p3pk3S2rEgNJXCD60thYAvF8awAc BTDclr31oCzIUbil3noqn1cUMeSB_i6XO4MYkTLFW72OHqTovL ExAqS_xqFTdMBodtzQvnWMvdLlwA9_v5fZq18A4mmHJYKmHYWp BBn3j3-KeAXp-FulB2cajvm_d4QhJxPb0UgSg=w1689-h950-no
Front shocks are installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NX6YMHajIJO6dQgnyFjnwhGDL1z-GOrC38GqsXIwhXtvk2VlXPdLW-NqhX49Fm0jnyaxkZlokG35YqsF1AwLIcjyTKzknm_25PazM8MP m4cta-cdF-FpeiTm9UXft9fmJi4_4eGx-RPiILl7P_qzNlIYRxhQnCxQyms7zUiE0nj1yEU1gnyC9TYdTmJ cI6b0tUdXKAqgZvr4lGNG8SPWC4n4rks2OUGnX2WKRCED_yCAO 8SX7napV52OrzoUpJE9HR7JcvnpPbaXv1GbZm0aucWMrs8fGgM iQusW1L1OKEWARwddvvIcdiry2wywpMig5VW-7HmK7CN6s8583O1yCx6DwnvYhpGqo9l3yc1ETY9y4FW9mwwWi0-sFE2vxiyhemofLB6tTw8iJK8A1FmxQp_zW6o8gx8xP7o09bYjM Pqbq8Yk3khmDUwNdEoup8PMFSQiBnI8_eXjUUeZ4Eon32Hch8C yeP4c0RXlI-k3U3mrodJfyhPPO6dM7TM37VaCznyks5P9s4Y3wAuEmH0xzVq0 A-UJQyqkCfAyjCFebmkGEj2OneA9rNfE7cZkreZPHUnfxvZen0B3 2Pvvtfs-VbtGCR71zRYE0Xuy2cUArT7T942amg=w1689-h950-no
New are surprisingly only about 1" longer than factory.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oYo0TfEalSdBJGokF9jhHz3MBVcNCOE8vPVztej1ezf5tOCMCy rJAYKNulTuOh3oSzWUs2bvC5nMpvYhHqLxSVFDahaxTVIpu9-T706bdY6KUWw9ykpxGuMdHWFH-U3dP-TDHYVNMCAo72g1eCCndlk-wTvY2jT4Y8wnwNU_kxLwRgZI4Bpkmyd4MuVTUhrkum0xgynTNh qzc_Qx-MywNIFUPP3k7u0g3keQoax-Ca822KlFSM35uWJNpaZIlekpR1zWyAT_ZvUfk6ORN-c9Y9CQUGl100AR2ohGg-WW279I3wTQOPUvocQZ9vYFa9s3QQM5h6fGkZNYTC0iEASB7_Vo pQ4oGZdqyWZvRKriSQBpv58mdHMEuD8770dZkGsYi5U1JD79QL 0hOhdb6ZNTzQ5xBKFiD-rHQ3deBGEOATze-it1ep7UZT9FK2kefuIa9aEWYi2_CxE5JCy6v-IIZgMaxKPp7Yj24__ArPnGdD_dm4KIuO0inMw1HX3wGXTBSs_d vcGlPyCH4PulrAhEgMSzAkaQF9mtwtgC4Di1CjqxY1xhnQJgHt huWCgIHJpYpce_Bw6kld_lLXD4YN-orvC5rjCUb0yCTYB8tj9DygAf6dFTKA=w535-h950-no
But factory aren't even trying anymore, so the new ride will be very nice. Once compressed, a shock will slowly return to fully extended length. My factory front shocks were so blown they didn't even move once compressed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sHl-gSjz0_pvNMqsS0LwBCQDULITM_0kfOXpvrBGqZsoGPGvYMlMEL Oeu8-mGn-s9mbS2QHzpxLRCIFjpvCk-7xU2J9Fi8dEHgc3AjIwICl1OwUW2DxgdncXF35E4ZAN2YDSuwJ fBweQVl2WnEv7OnqHqalFI8k5zFsiQobXduv885D0nVTbR0joM 0z75PqpHxqLnDi_aKi0sv612vlJCpv628NjE9Xyoqk_bpfKr62 tkVIxKkYwV-l-KuPQqTILP1Kk-ccBCGmEiyvJ2F_cNO8W_tVrsjb8YBJtrcEazZhEt4f8apPnoTF p32n5QDrr_H9yMbNkhtuow-Imx1Ryq1ugPHVzxF-H6uX_c3R6QJhZYcjJ9yjFdNhBYrAzkVSuTtSxMO0FB_CwrtHSO Fh7uzdKDyQyYVcM7ekQs05OxxDzGsaPCXMNGFyUb1THekTtg4u Updp6Yy4ciGq4_ApCNscahM50XEPMrE6j5JgMPnxuqzj714YGs 7_hpsi9TEq65GRl9jJ7_go1dBYPkyuHycFP_Wc3QBxlfTpAP4g QBUQsNgSzartwND6u4aLG__QwW_Zo6ZGsz1igUfA0uP_6Gv9Gs ixRyXhnQWwY1B7mOtxHeSN1sw=w535-h950-no
The poly insert and bushing on the new shock were too long.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P-gjFrFOXh_RbKDHDH1ZggCWAeqp4jWS3244G_SppLdhNXiMf-68u-29wQYeOF1jSSxNaQCnqbJS8uF2wYz-DAKwwuX8hLXyaXUZ9YoDbiWwA7VsnTgNOi-LIm00uJN5qEs1tUDGoofUNgx5h0iyzeiGRakZ-xJ39_XpkCf47dG9i-CSjj_Kn457JpiK4Y7-4vSy0cH7PxmOx8Mm-ct5gD0HL7Zeu_bos7OjeFZLEFrfQ6JaeQ-CdoZThbKIm92XZ4s5EEaiEyt39t9gKTcfnqOavYkA6Zh4b79K-95HBN0q3tUPW5uUdei3JKArrnoYavjIe980benJIyb5nyfRMAQ unK5oB5fdeNkSjA4oLqrFQaUGdmxsriXTeU5Wj3ouHa8vabsB0 wLDty-U4bKPW7657kx_TyhapVGwyOWYou0fZVJkL6gOeKSYCvnBKIUi6 zprC0T7iH2wlSKuaSDv0nehsOcx-5s_zzOA-oFJ0h1yXMtxmrjybENus9WvwdIcc8QOUiUvLoHnl_T4cKxTHYN nKA-z-u0X0UBOTQFKl_zlA2YMf6qagEiaCra6RSDl7PcNGJenT2vBrqA RmNicC6oR8mBinwLAFSBbdJyadiAWcFxMPg=w1689-h950-no
I decided I'd press out the bushing in my old shocks, since I knew it was the correct length and inner diameter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CdEUocmZx5YqTfhcl4oLgYKrNR1q3tGnyvYYVeH7B9ksHfCtW5 PdqH2Dx98MAI9iYObl-DjSgroQXeJO9QVtDqTdPVentIH5oWZUfogDAcU9fM1lScfDM6J UyYWvSW6MJ10Hkn_vTIm_jY3PEFwKmuvIaLFAVB_9io1Cz0AhK l1BGbnkC_omb27_3EEkFJdr6SkSsypiUoQ5PJBtBz9fF2o8cYC XR6vB6S1SqLB1av7pATVZXkOsvpTR9yp6KEuwVYppHCliyKZJ9 ZNuxuU8ugUMmttRpcOsKqulfpR8XJbrXiUHLxlFnfdcRETjdPT MqNl14XUAIaP_a-2uxZt2v0uDsJW5PR4PbjWSNhdUmdZ_E7t50lFdA2JdCvRCGdvS xkKhGb3kK-iXE5qNil3LOFbtBCaYvsPz6gbomyCUI8WfJ9DzXKif00G9uN6f lMVkb9cPiT_bvghRCvqaU4uLhijlG5n3UmXzsyr9pxPGoy3ugd G_OYl0v1HydUnGPY7l2jry6p72goX5DfpfRPT4npxNMD5SKm-E9lEjOUz2NUPY_avFM5y_u-MrvyAlVpakKs3viXIIxhV6ScQnjK2sxYyitS8lHjgzXzr8wa2U jfUTQej7Jg=w1689-h950-no
To press something out, you can use a socket the same diameter as your bushing on one side, then a socket with an inner diameter (I.D.) that is larger than the outer diameter (O.D.) on the other side so you can press the bushing through.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kBS3iYSWtSYF9T5ECEYGytHhevXV9tZsLYcq_bxQCyunUtkYNf P3BWxSQ762GTY8UYQ8brdwX3Z2eoAElro-PY_MVPZJg2WfUqIELqdNvlvBmQ4NWt1tXHBYVHOEmcFU78CuU8 ws4kN9oRZVKbhh_wTQBHXK2Zrl2jt4tyoZPcYCLtABbYzfw16Y SsE8yV-k1MhzWrbcmn_C7w2JBW8ABFVwKN1jrKCX9Qjr9VfCcB0tLkKo1 5i2kUACWZCrA0RyWUu6InyiBzyS0QlBT5csAFnOhg0er0A4SKt 6A5tnqPj5GV_WatnYcCC483FdVdptMtiS7h0SziwXbT137flpL y5hOSjmjrEtpjAvWXUeypiI5Xj4mvBi3WJCTkoxBIE7OYRXhiZ 70qf19mtuv06IWATNsHNoOK5Fjo9EbLaxLeHhgyRDjRvWSicWJ s7hVQlyejfivGu9MnNTP3Uk25oHVVILPY8yXyiSzBSdPZSCHJO yjfCzvkU56_1XEWbHBwQUzosL5Jz9TCIVjsejDb94FfFDAVyFl M54HqvDnNOzmRuLU-dMmJ9pDQNi_GVleWlXr70k5j3ESdv6HZrjMJJskt9g8i0kVTEQ 3gOf-trE6iZdGhTQEA=w1689-h950-no
I got the bushing out, but the rubber came with it and I couldn't pull it off, so I decided to try and melt it away.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A31DL5fyiMlqbv82MKLOg1MDIW-QvZe1d2W5l_5M1q9Z8P5W1Y9vnMFXUmmpvlH-UlLuukQCIDXVYS46X8wQOAVipDNqXHigsN7dGAJ7Ynsb2xS-xJGllkrYo_o2B5vNdPjK5SnsZBoVpbhilYylj44MB7FcXxIAMc BqQYLA9RMNj56xHxKXZGNheph0fLyLZ0_2OUXz4IqQokXK5S2p FnFs4F4VhEAk7ZlpuqZlBuMxb-Fv-5M78qQMmO5kUV6BZ1xL0rHrT4TrR_KH4Fou5gUotGTNFXfqbba CtH91ZVNi9gfW6g0gX6oldXTepBPWPNnBpqlAx9EvZ3pF3Dbab 7W2o6BqJe1ZvK_rc8A6W2-EszWSE2MiKgo1jKe5QaO3yzM2oOnJkNkR3PDqKc43MHeXVohKc 5OfV2e8uR413K_5ol6GaBFGg34JMqjqQQ23UJflM3DvM4FYV_F zwqSP44YfVRq23zwwQEXjbXlsmqogL72dbeFIPQ-TRHJEE80cQxpeChIIOMoT53_EqF1H4dx95Rg04c1i_9t0oEhZ-0cViNAgECOB3lCjbLRm44H7eZFFem_caM0E0DmLlQF_afZNRyy _AxQcwbzQAg4gmAyoW3zww=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZlUIMR_4OqCccu6v0lmfggQMQyrcI33p52TxD5JWms_o89Edzq mIVQ039d2qzSJtF_xgCppVSpT2iLB-F7HHo3Kn1w7XB3y31Bf6becBbllQap3Odz1Z8hb7878wI52JDx P7USya51cjXBeXNazAM82_is4plUwRUWwf5DzdlpMgQg3TB36G 3iOosFzMys1Tx6_DOmsxvbQ8iOIy8v9sQGJl2BSKMJCPeHpy21 Uyux5FPKHTUECpwtJzA52UUB04fRMteQK8MsY7_BPXncOtcwNB rqNROcSU87MonbbLfxN2wuT0emj1k4Ni5hpu8Z5wVTGhN4vFuZ d_IKJ24uAV4yV925opd1A0hZ-QXkpJnjxOUhWPPpiIrzpAW2bgMU-AbA-z8Mah7jH_O7HsXnjMZsW11J8OClgRIr7CPliJjFPgespneOYOW R0xemrNmdMuv_Uy9tV-L8GLSTZR3dV4jh9bntUtmrCxR0ktzwiG6LbdUDkj5v9-YuzKZrrd3gwqtw_TMAzPMxNgvYMkj431WNZGtLw9GOFPu5EjM2 jD4_reaTpll3QI570_0A-1D6GLZxB31vxC8JrFwStMCypGUcMBsLv0D47T3uatF9g5m8xUy qLNiw=w1689-h950-no
It was taking a long time, so I tried to persuade it some more.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ngcrbyjq9AzyVn9dLrqrylg2hjOQubBMks6huKGa2ncZn8cS7t 7wrpfhvpkGPAvV4sQY7UV19dBPG309uWbOI_6AVVjbv0uwPvnw NaOEnjULWr3myIOwElqSgD9d0tiHZgi6KL2_4jvGdUuC6my3PK n7G5WBQQDPFAu4Zh7x29knsIclli5WRYdM1HEyUdH7xL-N_PZLfOcjoBn9W8dQmhsPD9bbffnaiuiQm77J44Ke1_4dk4w-jx1O-eCWn1Dw7OkXHcYnK-nN5CTNnby9SRFOP1HHjMuM3OBmG8NyKOzXLz6oNoSK3AaI8EqN hfveBN15i07PYXDYuelI9CaV7cycovXGVg17FAscMl2pvDj20_ 4zDbjWTg7vQwuuV3aZvfooNjQwHy7uSHZduyE_CFC4zvBISn_p 557EICzp_NYJ2ZrrSlTbRmfh_LIAsXXR-NGO9lYMnv5cTo68oMSYTWDNQnxet6C9XoijBU-BX67I1loBv7qisu-xyJmWC9WEUfBAcULFNLNhUSAHPUPYlUdE0_nCSV-RMYwEVbk--PuKXtfiRys6W7GQgy3DOlXWwH12tm-prPbiKCDWF9lGtTBOOJJP8GERQJAEwWConIVKQfntVQ=w1689-h950-no
I eventually got it out, but there was still rubber all over it, and the outer diameter was much larger than what would fit in the new shock. After all that work, I just used the old bushing as a guide and used a hack saw to trim the new bushing to the proper length. Next I used a pocket knife to trim the sides of the polyurethane insert. I initially started with the hack saw, but sawing a bushing doesn't work well and a knife is much more easy and controllable.
In reference to the Great Kazoo's comments, this first picture is actually how the manual describes the method of removing the top nut. Vise grips on the "flats" of the top bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rZwnlSofOMMxXLJkNehiJbKRw9sggHrURVry9TPTnOn8-91OQ9PhGWFFRCbymfHKa4sh43UzH8XTCBl-j6T6Yoj_osddbS1tul2qLvQPikmGrUxqCf_MpOntuJHmS20qzN E1DanrXp2UK62PGLmeoTc9cHixiYb6V9hECBgAmqWuf5tTqFSQ-VHq2Cbal3pOAzEzxKOHmNsqiJbDzzKYgTYIBv8WDPK7XlJy1ah jQintIHQraHsBBGhw8kA_Nkz3cSg8g9eIlK_fm4wPKaHt-k7H0wpbVV-RK0ZbHsbqwKFNmYOF-3SYEHZGkCULwSeSMRRaStEcJs942Zr6sRC6_bFeKkSjQOVks1u CWknJhsiYSKL2BxldoKK_U43E8-CyjGsaczHlSYuOBSaoT_GBI9uVb9FeoJ68ucu6O15Hi_rZb9Hb u5-mZ86NFBRC_s4PKCwc3II3BKqj3lRfBHG3b2olCMumgZr2pqJt3 3o7uaJ1y_N95-slUwkRkvXmvrIGsipP_l4FTu_K-0E9sicIaTo4JcMMe9yZNnQFduljnII8lflCTE4kKIgwc58Shxi LGL-yQLCqtbzhmNKwVPhOOAROXV6Aqn66QBEjNgtDVwxl1z2M5A=w1 689-h950-no
Then once you break the top of the nut completely off, you move to stage two like so. This takes all your strength in one hand to clamp the pliers hard enough to stop the piston from rotating, while it takes all your strength in your other hand to turn the nut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bwrQR6xIXtds1cfb8EmubfOF_lYkP8Kk24qY9jA-iiu_HsV92ZGMPjYHAM3CbEyHAsthjlDA8OKHqHbLijSqJYthJa FEvvquP9ud_hINYPXVJ2dXpllvvNZgSWwRjUsjaxaCA3pTaRLf 7CQudFBHwxDxEbz5EmyK1-SK6WD_c5c3cU_3HVt73uvNo1zvt9X7axgw2vq6Zrd8jzovRCfn waqu2QosN3jZVXVPE2J0oAC9C2M49hKHwCSIWUyvrJNthnwLXW Or4uTz1m0_cnO2g4i4QBqcg2kkbszrYWKEhePS0sWoiFfQmogC ROix8PwCPHs5n_MQvcdy4nNeF7_kSWffg2DW5lzlUq8EUVJn6Z B4EaCh-9fucBg24U-tWzLfbLdZpH7b4deS0-qKPAqhpiaf_quDj8PfqGxqIP5U1zf-0nCeAHvbg_P5ZXWTD0PIxrdvTt3Ba9qNOMs_YQL3N5JpxqEphP aRpN50_S-76MyYPBq-po1pE4vYHbkuQb2MML_oiPw7Nrt28WpixVpmn4evyThTdcv1Pe L_DGrnUMCokZd3eGA85kZkhq92ug-e0gx8ITBOt8J4aJjqthAve7IsUPpMdYGV6-JLhx4ObfqXPH5pjQ=w1689-h950-no
I grew tired half way through and discovered that a pipe wrench does a great job of tightening against the rotation and I didn't have to squeeze anything.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yIOu-93DcPSflgbgnuN8wfzDJCPlknB9GNx8Ie9oKHJlJLWboOsANmQ TIiil9EVu5lF-DzJoDJbzoZJBLVaBq5JAxsVe7gJy4ghFTrfYokLiAQqpxWVQCz 1MIxgLOkdM830WUQqgJmn7GIE3VMCVOR_51DFMMwWlnmycgAZU jZMbCij4BMJYclyhw1Mwo9UIL1rEr3L1HPUclnl-eCkujmSkYw4FCxQg2JpqwOcOdJTdEQkVQLGIn91WnhgQTb6OAh slC8axS1r19gk5vgPTU5TQP1Uu4qfYgUB5nkaQ7AuBFIFhaX55 vgTqyN5wXexacAlPHCxlma8EtnDh_EdKRgIT8G5oMY_doYF12X 1pksb-UC18hv1CMUVpnDtGL_wMsFvUYv3qJj20k5hXwBVoIaSdXYuyKa T3ye5uwj5cjgv5U4eRS8R_zLUO2TqlKfLqbbbSeWioEyjJvgXS 7cX_DcOO8nxNRv2zGP1ulkxGX3FsNJLSz-lKBtsQGL0ArBGxF3dsiehsP2ECMJmGKF6cQGdQOV3lKP4j7C2E oywzmE0_Y6DrdA1tSCzzH3yTAI-Q8IPRdI7sNnQVv-3hscvnwaXUe34BZpQx6fhfazaRUYDrYRY8A=w1689-h950-no
What's left is all four front CV boots, all four front ball joints, and the torsion bars. Any comments on the order in which I should proceed? I was planning on doing CV boots, then ball joints, then torsion bar, one side at a time. I'll end up making the quick disconnect for the front sway-bars at the same time.
It's looking like I'll need to use a pickle fork to get those ball joints loose. I can go rent one from Autozone, but if anyone (close to me) on here has some I can borrow for a few days (a week just in case) please let me know.
Martinjmpr
11-07-2016, 08:18
In reference to the Great Kazoo's comments, this first picture is actually how the manual describes the method of removing the top nut. Vise grips on the "flats" of the top bolt.
The front shocks on my Suburban were like that. What a pain in the a$$! Fortunately we had two people so we would take turns, one holding the pliers and the other turning the wrench to remove the bolt. Took us a while though.
Not sure why manufacturers use that design. Maybe it saves money or weight? Sure makes it a chore to change out shocks, though. :mad:
HoneyBadger
11-07-2016, 09:50
Just posting to say that I appreciate this thread. I'm planning on doing a total suspension rebuild on my car next year. Thanks for the pics and explanations.
3beansalad
11-08-2016, 10:35
CRC or PB blaster is your friend.
PB Blaster is great, and works really good on heated bolts. Smokes like a mother, but seems to be drawn into the threads.
Just finished shocks, brakes, and leaf springs on my Ford Excursion last night. Hard work, but a huge sense of accomplishment when done.
Just posting to say that I appreciate this thread. I'm planning on doing a total suspension rebuild on my car next year. Thanks for the pics and explanations.
Thank you for saying so. I assume that most people on here are more capable of this stuff than I am, and learned all this stuff when they were 16 from their dad or in shop class. I didn't, and have always been a bit envious of people who can repair or customize things. While this isn't the best step by step thread (your repair manual should be able to fill in the gaps) I thought I'd take some decent pictures and document here and there along the way for anyone else like me.
With that said, I need to dump some photos in here and ask some questions. I'll try to come back and label the photos later. My question is about the non-serviceable end of the CV joint. I have the inner joint pulled apart and cleaned, and my service manual warns about mixing different types of grease. So, do I just try my best to flush out the non-serviceable (outer) joint, repack it with the provided grease, and re-install? Stand by for photo dump.
About to tackle the upper and lower ball joints and the CV boots. I've removed things in the order I thought would be most helpful to me at the time. Quick side note, on the Amigo/Rodeo/Passport, you can't just take the knuckle off, you must disassemble the hub in order to even get to the brake discs. This makes the front brakes a several hour job (for me anyway) instead of an hour or two job.
Here I've disconnected the steering arm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QiHIkUegdsahbWhydtbe8ApckxVKMxy54Mxj3OW_dj2WmQIkOi E06pt96coViVuVZGhD9IQFPPoy7Zso7Z5tu-IfZyLuRtLMOF23fAcpPeaLVpjqIRqVp2sbMjF7ObVKM0-4qF9Tm4QIzTIsWTK8ge7fuNhJLjZbS3m_vMQpV3shoBlkowdop GU-FUbizqTYIE6pkvzXm4CwlrDuIAO7GJGaNMCz5SboOOySDGaCmS-qYIV-YvEjwf38F9hCL32y55jF-CokQAFawO4MJvO-OVOLjUBINVPCKU3IBmmhhJ-YBq8px-G0waQUxeqBcq1L0kGbFhyyeQ0RL6pN2UVIlgU1oAO5GX2Sxv_Y 5dAsbeQjEU5Y_JBbgv-vD2Fb9Du_z5YumVLWTIK83QbKTuWAKRjNPMGzUHIaOlZ0xhxUd 1jQ5hQ1nfTnYZkXfHtch1K5PzcE6B2dXkdCU95R5mFrB0xBkyy lRc31yzYJaWGQ1-D8cDnSXqsXOvhrALQxWu7Pc0JozTkHu2bOzrIYg5cWap-PnEhe_2RgvyKwapCtsvEWWTzotC07z4mgp03ucQk9fk99nxtcf qq3OXPuFJW3PFW1i-5wch81n8LcKNuDwdkaiQEGwA=w1689-h950-no
I've removed the caliper and hung it on a piece of wire attached to the shock tower. This relieves any tension on the brake lines that you leave attached.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SY2SWKJNOVrLfvdjz2dd8OK-NHVuxuNWZZ1wGZUu_PN5Ta3LK16Tgydhouj56QXJ8M_YKrumH9 FXir5mlSg6Nn9ywzEorLCOGtk6GufP5yD2JlhFO9Hy3_MCchcz Htuk_-LB06aVoEC4UhkGIPYWYZj0m-TxrXZp1jJM8_Mos4ej6Odm7cpiOA65NOZaZ4Itxu-p9jHJjyyRghwdKHj5huFNlOuNfDcZinmyrRs3FkU5ziPCDB7Hu cwasPyO6BgvhegwoIZO4TwLN6Z-TTE2A3f6Cn7fVizp7Zg3V21C28bjiexfUL_pT4zfFGEx-W9If5uNP6Yl37FHYXCDcCcc4sspuKltkL7pgoKPgnGSBKc7gSl C0qQc0SvilGniPSs2CuKTOr_dSs_3qex7t7szh0ZtdYVs5MCA-mELq3fNChDm5G3W4cP96cviWm0EQq9ujfZ3EPFnPAPXF_6QYlI oXUoKgvPNwSQKkqjTUpufmz2Nz2EOuYlIxmoAYmS0johGVwg8r PfLjjINr0gy0vkr6Wegq-0pmw66x0pOdrqAqoVqhTePv3wvm1lI3YsotwgdJuaKGj0Csigz 4Ay56GjSxj8cl7U1TP3BOHoNL6ejYESdxT5N0g=w535-h950-no
This is a pickle fork (wife refers to it as a Dinglehopper) and it is used to separate ball joints. Remove the cotter pin from the bottom bolt of the ball joint and loosen the nut a bit, DO NOT REMOVE all the way. Place here:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3nfI-qJ1_c9GhgJwmT_IYb-r9A0k5iJetthKQEucptnvSlDigGg6EYsz-kFHvj-RqIWQa7wC7Bzuuci6C8GCzOVAoGBNoUhnrtYQ4UzT4vz31xi5z UeXitR21Bi65QOo1wpl6u_-n-yINyO5niPQjstDr0tnQS82tMmnDon8bBVyWz3F8UEMPKX69NOp PoJ59dBm_BQTGwgcJWC6Kk8fDZswq0OXgGnbttZSqE7LqNQATp FtxuNS5oFSEIe4uGYkKuCDRPwtAZJLfye_AYhigCK4lJy8VxI4 0A-BQChuytBLewCl7I7s3sQpq-pozdviQYGeywI0cNWE8fBuZOPS8tPHnyF1gJvqhH9oCornOfps 0Eodf3w626KpCanL8KkNCQa3189FD_levSDHh-gMmPh98mYo9qy1OkTdxg90bT8VXKOcUnPan-Cg21PNQ3Z79OeNGsMqYgR_JGmPJZGcfQtXlssxsryjvI5QaIpX dfmPpRa8tu3w-ktkzK-iKBQzJHEj-NnRyNglOtBwvx7tROfLLwcvy8rLACXDoj5P2v7HDISjnxJBTWy KoyXhp96pNbbuy8GrcozqRpTftvhNnImcQpBngdYSFHEcEUpbl fmmgiUsuw=w1689-h950-no
Pound the pickle fork in with a sledge hammer. The ball joint won't usually just pop off, you'll have to pound and pound, long after you think you should have stopped before it will actually separate.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OlUwD6CGWbKmfjfFTp6Y3tPWezL3bzzVAGaS_0T1dsWVsVG46G QVWSQLBhPgG8PAambjJKSgQQAFnpfdQvxtq-F7NxWLlApFyqFAxMskucqZ_RGoeykbHEdw7ya75hZ5iG1uOOw8 9zauer1VsoN68K64jXAP9zCAp1rprKnRkgRVAdgbR1fb79a1PL KjTzQPbCCWOUGUMchbSjRuCqqBfDUWwXkCaHlhn8Fbq5mmxtw5 P9sCwxEs51vIu82cllNhs-kuc95FSDKJSKt1qK4OeG-fZnl0EivxC9RhBwwicZf7YbfHhIy1WIdm_lxui1YkX-yHZikpYOjoKLurHFLNIPSBBYqYClDX7b7nj_7R0Lt5c8HJWfrr Io9jD6svbdIkZzdU-0r4-Xafto0hyQrNasaIA_zIAOMUAhbmD6B11bPfQ6jVF91p4GZvoIK VvUHFvUxWiy7_oVoWmvtQHuTV2vq4J0LByjE1ouUzQQRVGEMhh pdlD0Hm3CqdPhdxUTwzLHhltY_Fu3pwdWLYH61IDQ5TmecQhHT VthsUAtCA8yOIx4Sq6eCtZr3SV0qldyqWSC74Ljt9xjICEW7m2 VGKi6gn1F4pGDRkh4SGMwJ3zZsjcs6xSw=w1689-h950-no
Once the joint separates, you can remove the bolts holding the plate to the upper control arm. Oh yeah, the pickle fork will ruin the boot on the ball joint, so have a new ball joint ready to install. There are other methods of removing ball joints (especially on unpowered axles) but since this is a 4wD, the front axle is in the way and a pickle fork is the preferred method.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZAXDtYsgPwQhALFIgKkcHGr9uewqOold6jHqJ5SZ4nGmojvmbw 3thS4-RGWQxJU7dY9a2ilZISgZmlCuHvQ3IeyD7FZC0DeMjip6vTkBhk eWbAWCWVLO6oA1mvjYlQcV3CgDCimdSde-gCqMqJIGITLJXGT2bkOQ-OG0v65BxswLw8ezlMy-aKDAwO5eyzyieRL-Br2_CetUzBejJzNbjKdHQGP-KXe6OnllgLk3q9mZivTd-xnsOjg-G0inS44A_GK0eXEbarF5L4_TgtGcmN5B7gcUwxhwyCXvvxLjel fZxkWYKm5qCMcAS6WlSuUHBspCH_dV5MnGQFKfvsVGyrNwiAOg LLBGxqZ9eXo7NM5FxGO0uBS2l85XsRdyDkBhAjIqD51ZjDljXB 5a4n7wnCOwC6UlvvLaK6xJuUAhlA7UXOS6k-fDTZMsWfaOyd66A8BtNXqY92K0EjTc4AvRluQbq68qvtxcu2hW-kmwM120m7jzbL9x05C-lqI3z0ebaA0gMFd2cL6qYFruFFO5H39c1CBfBvd5fPZ4dfAHzU JVLG7fq59Jt2hxzQ5PR8AgFqLvrAHjlzJHfDHM-UXx-RPmsM4WKFyfj4nq5hMq_LHfAsEmcg=w1689-h950-no
Here is a shot of the driver side knuckle from the back, looking toward the front of the vehicle. You can see that I've temporarily reattached the upper ball joint, just to hold the knuckle in place while I work on the lower ball joint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eB1tQvvYT4B4trVMp1A6W4CypgT8N02GngpKqzTJXICVdVwi7y ICeQrA_eTdifzJ9um_QGkNkFwd_I_Cbk66lxt1VASCA0XMv1lr NwwphCN6ZZTZdxQXblNPPlOWOBgz3OWpw72w4ShNgt65TBpD2B 3KVCpC0FfzbxMAs4N0bgh1cqjMv-gBEExbFNhwbZNWL59ATdTJYM-xqqWc-jE9Y15VQ3UYjTDinj1PwCFHAOwqRjIVWYWvZ7qGba3u670Pibt qxCXuxolhvcbrEq0uY6JvMtGGRnQDwNbBCUNG-KhqYgBJcfxVu-EqW-KvmVOIm3GhuOLjsbWkWZ_508jq2RZJuWVW8pURtydgAPWx_ZFd zx4yN8JOhuNvWF9MrkkbElTur_5k7qZd8qAzO2V8lkEyt845dt gK1_g1DYsFy9a-mpQxFHpnLvM0gtWJAGiqivlOUUAxkA9-4M6MzGBbE38B8tY34BLwaKAyPLWhUWcx6md0-uXUZYRCB-Q7H3-FZT9GWtflTa1M3LDfMWc8SIjSACeVdd9PVW5WyxM5Q18xScphO fBxAAWdxB6G-J60M6yfPzMIzAjpd5FZtEuhH84XjT_tmwtZt0mbISdaNN6gYjg uQg=w535-h950-no
All the pounding kept vibrating the brake pads off, so I decided to remove the caliper bracket altogether. Then I decided to keep going with removing the hub and brake disc just to get it all out of the way to access the axle. The method shown in the photo is not the best way to hold the axle from spinning.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fJKboonmZRhbJBb_BzjZQgfedD9Po7ziqy5YBQblC96AGU91ON 1Z65YNAhTWIsdEGoJiJzLy6JLir2kbTiQhGsrvkG4_cHNza3_O BcnL_ee8fOjJOJLTdy6JJ0GvPvBb4AUY7KGdOK3Wc7qokmZmzA TNSCP9Yj96yiwnGpNh6lBZ1W24Gw47niqpI0NSpAeE3GSnRj3n 3mU9UMUwopSdM29atcy2mmgsUiLQ_4XpnYUSDSsFRKNyssZC0p CWCOvznEL-Sg7TkRFgNlCe8XhD26OvcyFKjul28MoksASZbwqJYwtLqII54j SqZI8y23QGZ1fHZdgeJaNnQuohQyEqwsR7ZIfiey8U2hjkDPyC 12xs5KGbGP1aQZyIZ5XRXEBdXpDkeLrpv1g-LbaD3AckuIamyuvgn2UOAzO-MjFplUA44t9HMKWpS5ohFsgq9jpdQ9eBbEcPuIuXSVwqjnh-gRoXRMYKaUjyBAQ_OMAzmPJojlwaeuUkX7SLxrJMF3RI8SB6gm kfhd5f3p96K27H2lS0gECgftL5jBpwNd48UA0Yh5IEknMbuccY 9JAX9bBOU1mD_u0baEiwZH01bCIQu8t6T18Qj9tX6jbJWdO7sF mbvSUaMw=w1689-h950-no
This method of holding the axle is easier on you, and doesn't risk damaging the threads with metal on metal contact.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/slmCa4o1u-L8wL_zVtB4vNkiuho5n72CW0B0XkZFlVE8SfbZocl47ZqOgCUi vjg-J0U8pKouRLKCMHlHSwUHI2dDfbDy5ct4qcziv0N-sqNuvym1FG0wzi47GK3OYxKpmXoQxpaVKCLwYLxa_F0YcWZ5M_ xtu5-qCvAAma_GbJGEpi0GGeLpWov3OZO-xuFpspmJ4NuOjqiRR2xKTHcbp8SWyAvLHhQEebfsvcEVr3nh5e sI-_VBtWiimAdqUnApfoilIl4DCNf3RUfYPsR6kN2ePK94K0oj1t7-HvXGhMGXRMnTco_YnLVjCeC6rX505T8FHIeoTCnb9qHgV0tIhh-89X6ykk2lhcJCiAXPhr7-ymrPWz-SuONMTq8hepsa-k4nb2zxDQEC4ScmD0h1joOmUBVE-sBwP6iyQGYwcoKi-Ur24ug1tlxfP_Mi9CCA02EWH_f5SB-zjyTmfu7FIMX6pM3X88IxDNsY1PM86t0BRoGHxUjQdi1tRPruS CR3ZKgCDrr5_6ktD8kvPStoYA-Iws9Yh-pKDhW4P67a8XBFDpOzwczeL1ETtb-xTEFDPqJFwo04FxxFuJfS2VUagLJXroiQfWz9EyUVN2k_R0ek8 _4H_w=w535-h950-no
Skipped a step here because the photo of me removing the snap ring was not in focus. Remove the three screws and then pull use a pick to loosen and remove the ring behind the screws.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/unRRlre-4oRpAuJ9xMZYk-41EUeLsFq-HlWr24BCC_V_VNlPCE9Fojma6nN9swjZuT1CzrFZrqH3xR2J4R LUga4TGkXzwfQzmsz19LUGggo4Cea-64eTkW1wnb4PRfeUsnNXcrzC_-mL-g4NdOXgyxhcpzMCtTqWFt3MWvRSlj7lGKUWptr1ftiQRuXuxLJ 7uRWrx6V8ybll7MfCc-KK8xqnL7wQkb9tnW2muxMwF8iXjlqjkyG0Qm9vUgh9Xpa3Nm-GkuEKj1Ba4v45yQldzGgokUSSJINHuiyW3DCknO0l-Gu__fsIjPjzEVdIcbclP_CD0YkMNySvfM6L2uBbNpcUqlVLkos Br3kPg_lT6mi-mDxFEcYe34l6jMMxpeL32SnUBdrOH_rKrri_liPk2mktge9Gw0 8wAFc7rsC5Dg7_h_seYanIIugFF36c38qBg9fwmbFTV83ArLoq Dji9ulkiiqKqBLvHRFyHAuojnlZGc7QfYhmUKByCRQFOdBf-eQoz4FYIGtKYHZ4_z4qn37cXijYykrOlg8WI0i1fW5VI3JHNlj tV_c2phWa4870VEOsjL1MBuDa3GhIbgv4FTYu49xxHSjOiI8-LZIuyWD4R7bhNgw=w1689-h950-no
Here are the components holding the hub and brake disc onto the knuckle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3RpGWmc9OZ_ZqaYSWZOFmmXzWH2uwiLe4myGVYrqSvsTjoPKVa gJTAiBPGDHrphLGmwfJNRnxOXRrGgmOQaPpIHHknYTX2vqVSRB RJJLlPUvlCxComwVQ9e2AS5OG3W6DOvzABi66dw3RQZOB_8JIG JlCHlvmAknS7ftkYEqCuwlSZp8qoOj_3vS_MdcC2f70XElCkUP JJaeC9KM5N9O58yQRSXakIeg0jDOFANZ0M1RxEg7lBgSRf9WBR JVpy5yhfUKFPWeaDLEuVVzx85hPH19zsQrlILQzVHlpCVI8StW gUyjzbjwf5tYYPxTZj3YdhslOneylCRThOxsrKVctsocyc2qOI igidYAzSVui2skKyltYu8Zd7Pynqcg4ItoullwgEV-8MiElUJwK0Inz7OEpSNFwblUw6aF838cZFCDPD-j-keaDv6F9-8AdewvqpL9X7c_bAnJNqCwU_ZJQDJhj3btJYowGENC4WnoQf3K A8tR2J9wkl-i-I_59WGraBMCsxk30qkjmAGSU5XZNNzQxfMZaOXOsl_f_AFFmTp n0tnfZI_SRvJywU1bHIKhyAnHq10HF1_3Lp3vXaWvHOdcDJ3k_ c_uSLueSqK_vA61ytFqmA=w1689-h950-no
Once those are out of the way, it's a simple removal of the three 13mm bolts to remove the disc shield.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TGqreisT1PFlNawVQ7-ergJfLI7VegIBLjRwRLHDaronz7pkBZaV_T8ux6RushO8Stzwu Yeh-dcacV0A4TVNc5A807tED253VFXJOrPailjz1zyuztli-BPBr72jK9T8Fj9wTFNtiwDlkV8Y5TE0mLGrcotBZpIXv8YGsGI hcErSCKni0Q7PaNYBcrhn-JOi7cZaR5erc9ldU3dnywtzd_WbPWSHngKL_LFBkqoFrxZf9QN uipepsNGSMXZTG5lksLi01t1SPZHNEWoLpC7kq-_wN0lsB-DsQX1ynDkYfRus3gsCsDrqWwp7FkBdxnpQxv39y_f8yqpS4ud_ B-nWPdj8fV5-7MVhCluDmK4XNf3pe83V8iShe6gKwQglzjqA_YFsR41MpIbSeV 98ViVfYtYPZ75S0su4h72kK5XjL6e8VDC_8q-tql2CJTC39CzJxaKko0W0iciRBtzCNRa3KBUADOEJPazzXBnHo 8IhVmcdB4fKTMbRJn7mqvTg8wg-MTgz7O8Gvhn9DzHb9I-PK2hdZbBamVZnTljAujEC-SoJdzpfmhuw4-aPiiP7ja09xZn_oDULWrISl8rzzjgOUjq47blFpVNK_V5RBL_2 tflXKvIb_g=w1689-h950-no
I'm impressed with your ambition.
I don't know you very well but I kind of pictured you rather inept around tools.
[Coffee]
Here you can see that both ball joints have been removed, and the knuckle is still attached to the vehicle by the 4WD vacuum actuator, so I hung the knuckle off to the left side. We can see the exposed CV boot now. The boot closest to the camera is the outer boot. The outer boots on both the driver and passenger side are torn all the way through at the small end, and both inner boots don't look like they have much life left. Neither axle is popping on turns, so I thought I'd just replace the boots only. In retrospect, it wouldn't have cost much more to have just purchased remanufactured axles and replaced the whole unit as a whole. For some reason I had assumed it would be easier to just replace the boots, but it is a lot more work that way.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZYwCt9GGe_4NGLC3ZVRXfgdCAGFGsGKYP_dz8artOLqt0KUgLJ GJZ7QVNcvNnR66sC8rtkczKdh7ZUsPHy7M50LoIZ9p01Gc9JzA Cih8UAzHXLgkmdiKO2Q1pyjQ4BnUhsIvcqIjvyZwaTAyW2lOoU GIO-AJ4D3au6Ao9uiides8Pxg3faVJ6ufqlfZfFj6y4uUYkSDW2Ozp LsJbfvGkk7y4o--rDZZXU4RvesijIL_rOiw7Qv1LCJplM83O_pum-ws4Fwqjx4ZhbF4cZwD3xK3ZjgXz40044iW8YcATsgRfhMaNQIK hP-VJxoHphQAEVYM-CFm0fqov0BvrAC23jle4yg9_TdLNSJDi1PRAEc7WB09gWGogCf 3fgh6Mpx_Hh0G34i0xwZIxgCcRCGzx6bGUo6lj890b8goLEZah iwk7ihuaEm-Ne-YRsOJkGG5OraYFqzvqSm4Q2DMRTjWZlneliC18gQKooxzGAhcX NBjgDtbtoOjWVTWCPD6WEcKIGsGcrk2W4BRx8DcbJZVcqxJsR9 3ZhyfOAQmfJpM80c-a_ar7anIGngMBGV2TB0HzHOXNaKfAhhesBRuK0N6uvHfx_5ydn 0XhHqsu_vty9sGtHAgEsA=w535-h950-no
In order to remove the axle shaft from the vehicle, there is a snap ring on the inside of the collar of the inner boot. I had to look at the picture in the manual 10 times and mess around with the axle for several minutes before I figured it out. The axle is completely covered in grease, obscuring everything, so cleaning some out is helpful. Also, the inner joint slides in and out a good 4 inches or so and it took me a while to figure out I needed to push the axle in, wipe away grease, then I could pick that snap ring out with a small flat blade screw driver. Here is the removed axle. I'm pointing to the outter side, where the brake disc and hub go.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/odbj8-gP-DllFhi24teLcfUDUGkW2AqhTITPVauXWwHrAg_SpozaUrMFeJm jjdVN7AoHpJ-pqY5QDGqE1v7ibB84NPhjVbQhBRKsz84nsmRe_mhaKqcUpAVpX NyX8pJQj5_GiXgDz_fAfYlkdkmiAZsHvgyFQ0QMMtHWrpnGqZa p5WDInZuoMkCT8tz-z6wbAoG1nIMP_4jo2YRUL63GqpAjz1HPmyj_1EVnA5bncVkbuZ dracPsoJuLkPeVWDXR9pR1TpHkjadqF32UVO8HoVsm-Zd2eUgTetBlDBN4Z0V2w7SJs9NlpZ2fuG6b5-qWzhCZdbdD7vHi10aZ2fQLPJSifxlizInugQByVzPzaNETf_9U jRCcMrr2x6mSRmvejZs2kAkwjOHEW36v9kgLFMtv9s_QW7fT9f xxBX9-AnEKzenVJDzs-RN9Flke6JUb50Hu50fy544J8PLhNbaGPD02WazCRwVvqCuSlUE 8gX7oXIVxpputphC-Ih3pruh3HuEtbR96iFvkvfpm6nk87-R78_9FvW9pPlkcWC6fqToD07ZaWrNLpmqcb1uv34ms7t6eOChr n8lXTkFS_KGN4phhz6AiQV9B9eCek4PU5VkUxqMpHQ=w1689-h950-no
This is the inner joint with the previously mentioned snap ring. You'll need to clean all of this grease out to inspect everything. Have fun (new boots recommend using warm soapy water).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Llkmdgq914iNFlX3GpPXOfNrDoRdcQpbpmBXD3FkRJ5voQk5oZ Wa4LOKS07g5WDjKr24VuJhcD6XB3-tUu9i3q5Z0cpHF8NijjJAHPvNihaMzO7MG_rIvjVL-COn8qbvTTKkpIQA2kcbHCUBEtmBr4t6o-90jkItZbHKwzrKOEjDP9Q1nLGlGTrmQr84JugoXCgJbf1Vv7iY msNxrW1mHqYbFIMilOwK4vb1TQ7_nrjfvvpUMWnCYKOXG0E24R C_P3AIClWwoT62lS6-jR0AUc4pEmc9tLf_bOwD_YB2pJXW8RL3jJdnUsZcUaa4u4KkV1 cBLdpyLYW8zFObNhFCBnYP8irD6YdxnvmCZFYctUejT9vW_SVY VV9asrT8v-8iaksAKVN0Vt6RFREcXHOW0Y3q5boxeHcrI3qEcXMu3RsYfKIB 850BmTwueTl7RADUrYhAcOMocun0GZlHPg0CwIz65w5y62r6Pz ZeWB5C_hHbu4HcgYrNaZQ0fvbi2T04IwPQw30nujqO6dQ0CZnt RR6iFgX0g3gPDpgd5TwWao8L4RLCsBVruGxu55anqVhBrczxXF OD5zBrB-JgVhLCpw-vDFReIdPJUIwZESL7YhDFblA0Zg=w1689-h950-no
Here is a shot of everything removed and cleaned up. That snap ring holds the inner race onto the axle, but once removed I found it didn't just easily slide off. I used a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap the race off the end of the shaft. Your manual will be more specific, but you gently use a screw driver to pry the balls out from the inside out, then tap the race off the end, then the cage can slide off as well. It is a good idea to clean the cage and race while still on the axle, and mark them so you can put them back together in the correct orientation.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8UqAjppYIcZyG4kGqFoFGEu3jkWpAIJmDhP_i3nj6Yg7mm94i_ GcPGRiRAt0_tpx0Y47fM1FOTazg7XgTPcmmhVtrIbZ-nCVVXLlE_OG-4csQDJkmbFRMXAC62fpchLcIgbbwRArzPivi-VO8mbsRh92-wkmLcNRkSqiyk5qBchXmIdWYmnQMPI6f5gpX9q0xjIh9cdaCex gDJ0KM3SQvA24kLnCOdCn9a5ZOcxVughBtBiZbZIo338XwQ04z M1d2Uk0Z8dxDeQZ9aLpim3Jk0NH-Q2h7T4kR4kbNw_3t47rtuWzHBTVU8SsPnSu-_d7i2IqCXrLoNN2vlLAlWdVZeV2JkK4InQ1Rwf8N28YbJgKzNn HEEzvuE-eT57aSoKujQPNgpNzLCtDB_jsUwJY_jgCuIg0mr2gaA27SBdMS IiHC4FrquDtJqnM_aCz1nua3KnMRV3SfnbKFxq9M4n70NUW2o6 4ctNSL1SL8JAYvMiZPxblwNvvjouL1ws63oTXbrMzVwu8ihlR1 71BKjDQU1mIbwmiEkwxfhAANYqdmhwpZMrElFGRLsKdgT7-Uv0LQg91UwlfMN-1QqqggOhPtJ-taEPkEd3Lv06XgIHAkwbJapsknA=w1689-h950-no
Race sits inside cage, balls between to allow rotation, grease to lubricate everything and make sure it doesn't bind up. The entire purpose of the boots is to keep the grease in, and the dirt and grime out. Once your boots are torn, the grease leaves, dirt comes in, and all that shiny smooth metal gets torn up and the whole joint quickly destroys itself. This is the cause of the clicking you hear when turning one way or the other when your CV axles go out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B1ATdd_xD2kD305SUKBJ9f4DoVF3nBYHPz8Dv7MD-FGWr6QdgdxKIPDnh-j2x9fe472fYkxgC2s-WJ4hqmel9Cq7xJmTV6Bhbvp8O-usXQ0CNxQj5a0iOxN3NMPpwrgxQuOW8ERPIaPs-GKouv7xAykcUy1o4eZYpY9wVZw-XQkUaXHk2LlC68w_EW-cI1Nr8cNXJaQGuErLnij9d6XaRxhDh5Hsdj7gfDlL2mmWIUaBC cWkd0mCOEllfg56PegwHqAp78teVY5t2XJ4utgKoV5uq0XmDW_ 04w5VPz4ovkBx8Qmzg20LTgAMPmrOlVeMc0QOPLCzfFmVZCWsz HNsARtwQolmcvx3BGwc8oI26SkBrMBq6-7jh4BJFNkM1vwEvVQNW7Ss8mjykDMpinEpRpV1xGGQPZtGyEXc Z6MB59JM6YybVx1zXqHMMQV4xbQM4Olm7wCSmfwpVk2HAf7hFJ qRGt1u_MV2WdjTi16wPq2PLpDAkmbDy-ufDbcIdL6sZNQaV2qZdtcKprqzjy0UjMmN5cHGcp2nZiD5r0gK u8xpbgh88uhtsX9lEbUGShd1-fw-t3Nr97Jj2FAnkuQpjLJQ6VKl1rW9sEr3hSsKKf6wMicUVQ=w16 89-h950-no
Here is a shot of the outer (non-serviceable) joint with everything (grease included) in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/73Cx73K5LXdKvveYlcWVvwo1WxcZ7892MJMfYk8GEMSOQf5XkP 7poUMHNsChcTv6uw1yg9y9PiODw_XFvM9F49XA_p6TnathOetA K0THpYgXo-sG13MLu6PLClACDVqr5R8sOf0PGBCkHWy0o5hM_Oy41udHGBcw lEFMqBh_bP7Wa3lRQezgCJIeg9uifl7gtu9JztcCq-n36XPDp0yMmPRy79ZBorl12abm_parS_5tjqH4Zks_cQwVdWgN qZp9t41dv96X0Bzi38G_6phx-SvbI1pAFOaophFQbRQRqh5iFt-ADruJUWOzOTOfC5uF3nJgqpVYU78BOHFwduL4EAo_AhLx1sCIE LFNIOO952nt4ln9ItrSgQ7nrp62zNZQ7RqKMvF7g_inaKEfwZn M-fwrGXIwc5q1RZApG21vLcKi_JISLwfL5jFg_lT2b4xx4gOE3co gAh3V_GqPSed9hhuhLAY3jD1hYqlkxAbRJg7uXnk5E4mjmx9b8 qbW1tMBeYyVGQxC19tVitrgU-l3VeVNKeuRvndhbJxK278sBWitGyRMnB4Ikf4KUnB6uNcOe0SF 1XPBdqNPO6BNyT2L2tbzJ9dRmULiSRU0Dv7j1wcXmnpctg=w16 89-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZjRR8EtJseseZH9ejGD5A8cM7Ul14KlcywQcgkES4633Z0YnKL 8eQHVg0CWcJiovkFNOonVnGFZxka7N9u1GU9MTxPUVxUgkXTVX RbJjch8O_-8dpTCmvkdM-VKwkSE03Ru1zgV96twrCmm3C-3h6481o-hvoyGbhnQjjdNgrElRHpwRPLj_IyOkk-ARcdOMxegbiRjgu45n-AuZSXCnypruzp1XVNj66L8tbRm3XKe2QY_P84cYgr185_a7F65 B9YQJEI38KR2aR9nmPSBLIFNf-Kzn-BKj59L9RNqkq816itaVikMTc7eKP-IxeTcqfS30RqPd1QA-LQ4A67hiGNPN1EamCjCJ1UctS3PWPKTiiGD7CqroekIowGdQOU jlOqDkAcdn7JRtXeP0wQrLkJ_rBUpyTki4by4ckOp974deVYLh LTxqwzRDoVc-e-fQrCjkGeW4INSLDOZfX0wex11s1cLy9ZowYgb4kMP8Zr2CBDD4 Bm61E3Up5CCKW-i-1w3kH4o2VBOgv2FBxy6PcvIKxvLXjtM_XBePHwzZoU628z9iiH 7C4ZvANAoH66QI2hThFbJpkFIDZQ-so49eqszE5LmLq3ndKPddAozAAsQlXT_DhQ=w1689-h950-no
So back to my original question, do I just try to flush the outer joint out as best I can and pack in the new grease that was provided with the boot? I imagine the grease provided is going to be similar, if not the same as whatever is in this one.
I'm impressed with your ambition.
I don't know you very well but I kind of pictured you rather inept around tools.
[Coffee]
Kind of, this stuff takes me a LONG time to do. When I was younger, I would get frustrated and either break things, or just give up and put everything back together and take it to someone else. Now I've learned to take my time, but it costs me well...time. The first time I did the front brakes on this Amigo, it took me something like 9 hours to go through the driver side, then only two hours to do the passenger side. I'm sure there are better ways to do all this stuff, but I don't know them so I just take my time as to limit the amount of stuff I screw up. Up until this, the most ambitious car projects I've done were changing the timing belt, water pump, and alternator on this Amigo, and dropping the transmission and changing the clutch and slave cylinder on my Cavalier. **Who puts the slave cylinder INSIDE the transmission?! I'm looking at you, late 1990's Chevrolet.**
Assembled.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SuiRObF-QWPd4jZDpZ3SKuF2M23GgaZANOkdpBUfUZmRs3CSVwGCTSBXqa EC7a2m7r1RsmvZmT7mzFEFzgXCZk_7-d372OuHRa644qmNzL-uMtjisUTPsEj3MWfN2yl3iegTXO2YCEVowzltnnsckq7BXhkwo JYuEwWyRPYNDCTdnud9uRn8TQ-wD6RTwpt3YW33VX6ukfFK0fmI78DxRpkuD8r5OuEVDF1fIpSrx VNXkryp4F6G4MD2fq3nqVvWSglPSWHOoGvBPSSTZm36LL6X4r2 mQL86R4iLMQo_YoRi2is2fNtk15vFoFT4dpIqgwLE2Jpgm9EVV Z9N3ChHhRKsxo5dMzY5tF-uVPHyWRc3IGEOlCDTrSW0ju4NK9a-75weWLdUnNLY8kWwu13DyqRQA2mYXiRThPRTfSeu6_Shi8tu2z Oj8UCT1Low3l1r1RDq4Il7r06miy8NaI-p4rA4E3AkNYaqMaiu9FHWj5AlZh19biKj5qOucvhaFRrl0tMkr NYmzsWNjMqMKWVW8yJVusObxoC8NpKk0EvepLEX4j0zT9sY9BD snyGGXox8dr_3lT-GDh6lHc7_JDkL2JSYm58C7ded0SuA8-_K8HY04VRuWQ=w1689-h950-no
New boots in place and full of new grease.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bxqmyzZNOSbeSekVyghTt3wmbS5PRO2f0lsPd5UougMRr0119Y ira5bdQIYXQNFlm-SXXCbUoWnPBUoYjBIFnhL-b6SpqmhRy6rzJsVzxAAnXTihUKQnVScQ_eECfVTWtt6q-IzpvkHEo1eFlxIBpGyfetItUmrs_kq4kB5dDVTxHRgXXLI178O rqz9Oal2cm6NkXy9xPZWDj4QhVSYng4be_7PuJif5OQe8p3BwR l0UczHCe7uleH_YYJnLtYZbBgrZHo8neaDecAHlDFjVJ95HKOX pbffNp1nwTod4XYHn-W1kV4dXxaZNXzbwIdU5kriCIPHt75UQLHs5B3Cj-n2cd6_5-9ZIoutLIy19gv04uPESJMSJ6qoyTStwQQYhSxHjHe-0UDe_24TH8U8ub2V4P7z0C7UjLqHGVTAAiKf5uBwwKd-QntgddDEPgHLIDLA4KQccBUSOJbhKz4XGmGI6A08ggimBU1bck 5PO_Do6KC2kca7a3_nQ4D_Om65qHprv5nKTW9Ha1YzzymkASBz WWvp1WIVFQ6xrV5R8nbo3ntFpZf-nGCtdV7Sx9Z8_phK4yrO0pq5GwG3wOhp6dBHHO1zeQbpwH5zsq Kna1kESSN0ARw=w1689-h950-no
Greased and ready for reinstallation.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EbS6n9Iw9qThZAqU40rEAtpKXIcuqzwM3ddW9HLFmIBFwSjON1 2FHH3QHzikAR0-Rjs-siYm2fT5NxlJORs0Q1Q5kq9LlgqDHuF5JoRrm_3cN66KyITopI kBZrap2UGXVLPlaJCleE1gTYny9nad01QBAxldeHjxTtx0s3k5 QJprcxYVrCSqsyQW5_lmLF7jNRK83rXZAbQviniDHhGD9cz0yE 0fk6oXoMBioYQbRPCac9Qpn93mR8QXskouqIEF6o_5nWisZKbW nItwaMvE8Qtb5UDIACiPsHTVesHE9Rp7RfdROEKgZMQhDp1ghd GAsrrbl0Z9WAnIn435HssfhNFNzmA1uZpl62tv5bEabctrzKxG UPSo9C7hcpG_mktT8aI4fSEhkr7Q6Z9ynUGMozRFshYR9T9Jri xacrC2xR1sBZiHlf0qi8b3ASVdcDuxw7r8q-11TU3PlXgoxJugFKqeaswB9wynayj11iC5LaP_iuC_DxsbYpXQ GX7Ml4KI3Q3sQP7y7OjsdZLLQjleQEYivCji_Wyr_nRsYCg0iO Pu1yTHoyxFILhbVrfF2UE6kmOl4EYFAZRPeliwS7kwOD90Inx5 8FhE2AcI-gGAZMECPk2fuw=w1689-h950-no
Axle reinstalled with new boots and grease, new ball joints reinstalled. Those paying close attention may notice that the upper ball joint top plate is now installed under the upper control arm, and originally it was above the control arm. This is to help achieve proper alignment after lifting the front.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7iH9dGQICnhqoXgdPwOjunZvO2HSYwswu6-KbbSqTCfW6c3sEsARw9rXcNLOEoO4kEpF4zCpvx1cbs4GAzdLH aMx15HMKOCVa7Smc0IsLTlS9Y_uwtZWVDkeepnOHUk6IPNM3j8 fh8H7h6kZYyPYhYLxf5wuFOZM-gGniPInKzqNLKK69iuGhYjTClkVv0i6F8CNFJT491me-0ov4zcK0x3_inPj3STUsHNrdZ7ZXXqu8yuS2lPB5MpGUcaOZR5 j3PLCtwoLCdm1-BbSSdK3d64di4ZnkKk-ncIHQWf2yHHAF61GNe75zzORwW-83B-rsK9g8ySj3bNML1Fz48HNg7O26jL6NFv85nO0eV9Bx8Bz7lfjh D1Z5ctiN9u_rVwPyaMHVm9eYFZYBWz2yb3jRhbxio4EqpeAR6z qUpUqamRUrkX2krpXPiirgaumxD3KJNmVwbYHrqw7_ZY462D0e ONUtsVvOdVHZQ1nSa6WHch-LMaC4sMstt4KjtvdKaQlurT0U75BrGoodjEK8oaonMKdPjMBYJ FtQMgmwAxHTiPTemO4jg6JyQTpJ8Yb2ydDDYdgIobGx93c6zOB f4GJ5D8hJ_qYm6uClWqEWZ9XEzyEvoR0pw=w535-h950-no
Personal note to myself so I don't forget: I need to pick up a crimp tool and properly install the cables to hold the boots on, AND I need to pick up a grease gun and make sure the new ball joints are properly filled. They came with zerg fittings (that I had to install) and the upper ball joints are VERY stiff so I'm a bit skeptical that they've been properly greased.
DenverGP
11-10-2016, 05:24
Personal note to myself so I don't forget: I need to pick up a crimp tool and properly install the cables to hold the boots on, AND I need to pick up a grease gun and make sure the new ball joints are properly filled. They came with zerg fittings (that I had to install) and the upper ball joints are VERY stiff so I'm a bit skeptical that they've been properly greased.
New ball joints are usually extremely stiff, even after being greased. That is normal. First time I did ball joints I returned the replacement joints to the store assuming they must be defective. The replacement sets were all the same. My dad (40 years as a mechanic) laughed at me when I mentioned these "defective" ball joints.
Okay, thank you for posting. I thought that might be the case.
I also forgot to mention that earlier I had suggested using a parts cleaner to help clean all the grease out of the CV joint. When I actually looked at the instructions, it says that the parts cleaner leaves a residue that is incompatible with the grease, and warm soapy water should be used instead. Oops. If anyone catches anything else like that, please let me know so I can edit the thread. Don't want to put out bad info.
I called around to some parts stores for a crimp tool, and none of them had one and they told me to go to Harbor Freight. I wasn't able to find what I needed there, so I just bought a clipper and filed the sharp edges down to make what I needed.
The one on the left is the filed version. Not great, but it worked well enough.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E-K-lkloPiyuo6RcZg2zeQGrq3h1Sf0KrzPClGyfTlSLWHWJWVOqTc 1oc9IxFuiYsUmWaf5C1cKXW-9buz8a5jg_j6cpd6ZLARGmZWgjDB8SfalRiM3SJSKBbymRav3q GaPPj5M45Y-1dsi_tUqeM9wXCWJQZduBGBPduLDb6I5JRs9rXBvWK7P2QNcGN scftOCeHgA2tp29Yqu4FNUjRkUz3UDENFWBTEf7G5hQrCykYpm NBmgs2kDr5JLWl9WXC18Ghn57SbrHsr3_aXVRq0KxUpRL5WrKX 2MQjnvGUFvV0eUxzqLXHq6aB6JV1sQePOUpwpDqTXCXSEIAvtA 1abrrjplUwUrL7VC7eC6SjbMuQKDf7VimDBgG-gywtvEtdkyR-7OGt6WujjWU-gHzgR6xnYL0nxv1mMiNaraFEaTn8yM6ewbvo1sKNN6r7yPlXQ8 w0rv4eMb56VEs6N1d6u2chX13FWY2EmoVZ98tkpxwzvCpgGj7w GtYRYCX49r21uAEpnvbEDlneej4fh15Q-sgMAsLZKsO-QXKLtSd757IxNCarHmtEz_ii8zT_vMr5AcQ-A0TWIVnkVB3dlNqfN7rdjHNImSOqO00dtwuUGJ0NA8h7g=w168 9-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mku41bA55jh2il_uO7-qbykiGWCiLGFoMxZuhfkaC496OdFXKJGk6o0aJIICSQvI_jDPS SnQ-llbNDxx9AX8FlO-yGHx5ygK0IZVLdaGnVy3gWQolIoqg3CaYiN74ORWYCj-aeQDvcPLh4WhwF8pFPBKA_mApk9aDen1nErG-FKlrDMlhEhGb8vaoRvqAqx3cXBPnnLvBB3VjlS9-ksZHcgOG62nDtjuT6eCj7F6zzZi2hcMrZRhzcQ3HxoGiYPfzQA-C3JHVce-nHd3U1eUoH2nDY1dYPAE-ySQN2-FI1peU_dvMtgF0p1czH1wYUwUaeIE3EyS7F3NCmiCZyLVWhDIa ZY7wmTLWKBilf-MrXXm7CzSZEpa8uOUvbz7DOP2uEl79dlGnXWUuw-et2OfGiuKouTrgBXMR4Wi1V2Fi9WaNzRZsv7qX5GFkZU9lZPQi yr9UgPD8UEOSaLghiM8UzRrpsKM_bg5hIhErRS1ULkdvKNRw7G MHb2HWdF79KO7Cmzf7Ag5dWUn6xHHLYUuXyMHnE_fk665wd_qi PjATf-_zyeCe5d_2WV76U758GJiFfhfnhX5w5FzCfJC46lpPzdikNwtO zPPkKxT1TVGb2r-mVI5QA=w1689-h950-no
Here you can see before the crimp in the background (finger) and an after crimp in the foreground.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bEyy4r9vRD9iYYpJQVMpPLnDjNTDXksP5bgf8C7nWgBFqQlQuJ aRhNMs3rNcVQVBVdSfXzlr2HMEk0fYk6flOlHmFn0OTh51in7k xbEIrSz4E1dW9urnJndYuTYmITE2drVKwlkSllXRSzUKc9xhKp Fz47bzqNerV0MPMKh_vM3ihk6wVdqj5L0r825ieFEqvXFqOhWL TOleH0pDdMRuvd_oSuojrTnDvfabPtIjY-VPTLcpZJ1RmZKn2XBZh0b35gDSxjNe7WjBiXayBouuWOAAe8xI iyIy2iKzT3Q2tuc1VPn45x9fEbFQK80gwTjfF4eVqf0_M3yxMh 31tx0ImPg4et5TZ3xn2lG9m-z_EsrkvaWyYHjsmLGGGE3B4niVwmcsFAuwDT7A6zac-kW-kSFsTHUCEID-5nzOR_zeRNQHc4N08B45nNOBf5OMguUYL4WHGi_G5ujezeMyOy YvGKWhN_CZximYDSP0rZdmeCFD98rLsNYVpaMrvVoGwsP2VvyZ UGZeT6oTvmtOZCEKwsRpts2A6nbufhltngFnTjrAkDJtzModgF e6FhKHn60kEksVDnkUrVVpcBVRKUUWm_drIzfw6DLL8InXst1D PQvLRrfm9w=w1689-h950-no
Everything on the driver side has been re-assembled at this point. I'm going to knock out the passenger side, then do the torsion bars, which should hopefully be the easiest part of the front end. I am planning on building some quick detach links for my front sway bar, but I just noticed that the sway bar is contacting the passenger side shock. I'm going to have to look into that more closely and see if I can find a solution. The quick detach links will be an inch or two longer, and that may fix the issue.
I about set my garage on fire out of rage after just having finished torquing down 12 nuts, while holding the hub from spinning, then looking down and noticing a snap ring I had forgotten to put back into place. In addition to having to clean the CV joints and repack them, I also have to clean and repack the hubs on each wheel as well. What a monumental pain in the ass. I know that some people are talented enough to change CV axles on the trail when they break parts, but having to remove the hub and try and keep all those parts clean while on an off road trail sounds like a nightmare.
gnihcraes
11-11-2016, 08:54
The crimp pliers would be the same ones used for doing sprinkler system pipes, but what you've got/made is perfect in my opinion.
here is one at home depot. poly pipe crimp
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-Poly-Pipe-Pinch-Clamp-Tool-POLYPTK/203053310?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-VF-PLA-D26P-Plumbing%7c&gclid=Cj0KEQiA9ZXBBRC29cPdu7yuvrQBEiQAhyQZ9AkM3hIj H0TVcS28Toe33EjhKpPdpmAiB5MbujcZ-poaAmtH8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yeah that's it. Since I put the axle back into the vehicle before I crimped, it turned out to be beneficial for me to use the tiny version that I had made.
fportmen45
11-11-2016, 12:59
What was the cost / time / effort of the boots vs. buying reman axles?
Reman axles are only $57, new are $75. Boots can be had for around $10- $12 each, but I'm under the impression that those are cheap in price and quality. I got boots from Napa that feel more thick than factory for $27-$33 each. So boots cost me just over $100, and axles would have been the same. The difference is mostly just the mess of dealing with all the grease and the time to clean and repack everything. Half of this project (and most of the projects I start) are just to learn how, so I'm not too upset about the extra effort. In the future, just buying a reman will be the way too go.
**I made a point to spring for better boots because they'll be under more stress at the new driveline angle, also, for some reason I thought I could leave the axle installed and slip the boots on and off.
At another stopping point. The old torsion bars seem to be welded into the keys. I was able to easily knock off the control arm collars, but the keys are not moving a bit. They are going to soak all night in PB blaster and I'll see if anything changes in the morning. Right now the plan is to take them some where that can press them off for me. My trusted mechanic is unavailable right now, so I'll have to look around and find someone who can do what I need and hopefully not charge me a ton of money. After that, it's just six bolts and some adjusting.
Does anyone have a good source for where I can order parts to build my own quick disconnect sway bar links? EDIT: I need to order a couple of Heim joints.
EDIT 2: Looks like this site sells exactly what I need. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8158&PMPXNO=22569081
Now I need to figure out if I just want to use a piece of all thread (probably not) or find some studs that I can have welded together.
One guy I saw actually cut his front sway bar in half, then welded tubes on either side, and put a pin in a collar to hold the two sides together. When he goes to wheel, he just pulls that one center pin and the sway bar just twists independently on each side. Very cool, but I don't think I can hot link the photos onto this thread so you can see what I'm talking about.
If you need someone to press the keys off let me know. I have access to a couple of presses.
Unfortunately, I'll be out of pocket until after next weekend.
I was hoping to have it drivable by this weekend, but it's not looking like it so far. I'm going to reach out to some other contacts I have and see if I can't get it done sooner. If not, I'll certainly take you up on that offer Ray.
fportmen45
11-13-2016, 13:19
Reman axles are only $57, new are $75. Boots can be had for around $10- $12 each, but I'm under the impression that those are cheap in price and quality. I got boots from Napa that feel more thick than factory for $27-$33 each. So boots cost me just over $100, and axles would have been the same. The difference is mostly just the mess of dealing with all the grease and the time to clean and repack everything. Half of this project (and most of the projects I start) are just to learn how, so I'm not too upset about the extra effort. In the future, just buying a reman will be the way too go.
**I made a point to spring for better boots because they'll be under more stress at the new driveline angle, also, for some reason I thought I could leave the axle installed and slip the boots on and off.
Right on. When I was a tech, I only did remans - too messy & time consuming.
I hadn't even looked at the prices until you asked, then I saw the margin was zero.
Making progress on torsion bars.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9CcF3lJJZzbh01WzNFU8Pcs87umpLEAVKvdqdQSYROgHOZa2zy ttwpgEKBRcyzuMb6ypnCWpwcrtPCfNNzEl0JJC1GPyNwAeAa5N u6lbP7mv44yKtC62WpXmycJp9vemAhjBoba8OXZ_rFukZ06Tjr jkJwNdcV9p01OFy_fSXCbqMq1Xgq324xGUDNBPX2BOIlEQodwT wiBHo_vQ6ezKWThvK0bFOnz-Rjq_6fP35CdaBVizn4m0oDHVR5TpfqG3JQMTh7xDolXVERcJvV Ouh8Ig5JUJDti1lVjrY3GnwK0BDb6WTgYVB2k-ugZI25Md02XGwRuA2gR0g73wNfARaKSEy8dbm_2tbPTAdj-Hxp1fkMRurucRr_yS-qS2hc6baZc_32mLNzi3EGlfN0LQ3COD0_nxXy0o5or1cVdEbno lpwb8yGrJdLy45PlPYlkGM3Rt5bFmx4ePhA4t3huWKrgg7JoP9 zHCOl3vqVNSN1myv8WSuWs1cl_RWZB2OckhdHGmfCmS4QTuGXI I70BI81MLan67Y7in11TDlkvKhIniA_WEQuC3rhBqmx7nY2vYo kLbFtHL7tBWMPu50Nhavy7fv9f6XqKnzE1u9DZPEDbo2lVdOw= w666-h375-no
Everything is back together now, BUT, I must not have indexed the torsion bars correctly because I am out of adjustment room and the front end is sitting several inches lower than when I started. I'm the bars just need to be re-indexed, but I'm not really sure how to go about it. Getting the bars out of, and back into place was such a colossal pain in the ass that I don't even want to look at them at the moment. I'm going to do a little more reading on the Isuzu site and see if I can get myself back on track.
Let's catch up from where we left off. When doing the CV axle on the passenger side, I decided to not remove the brake disc and the hub, and while that worked out okay in the end, all the extra weight swinging around on the knuckle made it more difficult to work than it would have been to just remove a few more bolts.
After getting my floor covered in grease doing the last CV axle, I had this brilliant idea to make a wash bin of sorts with a rack inside to keep all the parts up where I could keep track of them. In addition, I thought I'd use warm soapy water this time as was called for by the instructions accompanying the new boots. This was fine until I dunked the non-serviceable end of the axle into the water, then realized that there was no way I was going to be able to remove all the grease that way, let alone the water. So I just took the whole axle to the car wash and sprayed it out the best I could. I then brought it home and blew everything out with compressed air the best I could. Then I sprayed some brake cleaner in there anyway, to chase the water out. Then blew everything out with compressed air again until I was satisfied. I'll have to see if that axle fails more quickly than the other side, but this vehicle is driven so infrequently that I doubt I'll notice.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rHlW_dHTmxYlLVTD_2o76tA-OPiC_Czd7Vmkwb6AiY5YPCqdGpFKDO4Ju_Ao9rZfVRXmO0U_hF Yg9CP_g0F1XhszWFlymeA9YA68qB5rfHuMOsrgvdEAI1hhZFWC IcnRgLfNzUiaiVMNP5kHU-pYH9SbpPpURnWywCj3jFZNJn64aecM40rccPXtdc8DiSaIFnsS rVlOOH0qbuWJtzegqCmV-rkEghS0SuLpMJdlAmJPWBlJHFcqNZ-ObHiX6q_s5S_FmM9ZU_iW9ZTwlJsnXW9HFuNOApVYwAWU5bElS wR7qiy3EakdCDJ735Sjy7STzA5L3QeSiR5CkTI2MPH-Jq0bQgdW_omrQSZCc259BCrncmsDbSeEZ35p9FAdtEb8Fw2Re2 U7snriPXcu6pff8zjbvnEdPWuSgLbikCtMM4ofXcpTF9JUAV7z gjiTzpIwii6N-TQ06N9dTj-2vpokGBBhJdmvwb4jRtcGpSFTeVWe3DilZHiNcXrjW55vh9JWG DilRRUYZd0tALwa8dN7FknWxKi3cHEJ3l_F2SivMR72FK20qNZ r1BXxBh_wZD-S9BeCtLfPE61mZ-VhgYmfiCR5yWDL-a5fQmNlwY9-MESnDjNM3A=w1689-h950-no
While trying to break the passenger side upper ball joint loose, it just seemed like the pickle fork wasn't quite wide enough. I slid a wrench in under the fork and was able to pop it off very quickly after that. I had been pounding on the thing for 30 minutes prior, so I don't know if I had just vibrated it loose by that point anyway, or if the wrench was a brilliant idea.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gghTZdObP81ZCdEZkPiyyD60Ow56ap2tmUsA2cBhv1ydWJIm1K xo8zVjDOaVPCXkd9njfX-eeCq-kH-NRrG4FXLc1dv5nKk0HeHe1mbAJvvd-Ib9KdMiopaEbBrxfXcBc8MLxUQE0WSuyBY0hpNktTjvwNCmLCG fo3p1A0Q2EcUJawyUOTJZ4_3thEg7BDPasj9FxE6f8XyF___Fb VrYgCAKEtgK-6kLsPO07WMtGhejnn04e7UHmVqEj01Ti2YgWJq47QhkOiE1A5B trb4vtCm_ZUKfof3Q0nAsIZUsAw9MIN2mLq2DI095win0bN_0u UL8Egc1li5Zo5we0Jqj7QoTMvE5V6k9-zAAdMnk1KdXi7-Uv_CFloF8kWMasCULv4MDhqkYeA63u-l0wBvZG5tDIqAxQnSruqb4v3T77XNP-smI_fZnYtV3zEripxhPkcnzoDhPJSou0r9kNM3vyQJJ-t7Fn-TSPsNJOAQFLnSXgLXk0f8_qxdJEyKh87YU_9cJVhJBuNxPXBSP PYDg5YKqQUoduX9f5_LVVASgrP4zvv9hvsMSRFOT3cheTM_fp2 p5kvyKIhCfLbfYMjM7Tlg9iAQ2uxXbhEI8lV2MoXWC0MroBg=w 1689-h950-no
The flipped ball joint didn't want to fit on the underside of the passenger side upper control arm, so it had a talk with the grinder until it changed its mind.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tjUVPsLD9a8hpW7ma7T7SBOELvSfLDZaanxPX0OoK0P-GbHuCwP7l7qyAv-h44HyJOs45tcpJfB-Y1l-unCgZW9AiFbPF68dKc__IsSqjVOCVRpZ-cUd6ERGsGhplX1_z69dfZqBa6QiMM0C1A3fi2ZeCndlcV_KCjc 2b0L6PIvKNRz8COUk6XQJkUFsh7r4Fh2J937ZzP2P5evrT1F1W qkSuElVNg2bzoShcfJnXdr2c1pvJuYN85KeKi_JLKyHJcR5n6r U7reaYR7-Q6ifWMoLhnISj54IiRzOGj8TBDnnXY6Lxng99cFfnaYxBNWVN0 o5vvieS4EI83QIZkiTh1F1Q1vZM0CnBcUGFfLKO1PU5JUgEtjK 4GSl1JM0Xaw66OHIR-nEoK5yZTS3OGOxiW4d69I8w2fQkCA_grA1Ndbmyj4OzzRP5C0Y 7PScPhtLVfJEcGWbye-C3vjjXhkB4eVTo3PgbuCTeVjb8Xtouf40IDXB3qqf_sTiwj1H7 pTTYzBMjz3M2h7AyT-_-mLkK46Oh_-8t7rZmbw1B_o9iDZrM5_NEXSrJ_ha0D9mlLAEre93MJYacmOxM lpYBYQcCzKMM0mqhegxgCYiChtNaJozJF4CZg=w1689-h950-no
After I finished up with the passenger side knuckle, it was time to start on the torsion bars. Of all the instructions and How-To threads I've read on this, none of them mention removing the center cross member to allow more room to work. They all just say to ease the bar out from under the truck, and OH! be careful not to scratch it. This was impossible during both removal, and install, but I didn't care during removal since those bars are going in the trash anyway. As you saw in the picture above, I was having some difficultly knocking the keys loose from the rear of the bars. I actually got one off using the pictured drift punch, some heat (map gas), and a mini-sledge. The passenger side bars wasn't moving though, and that's the one that broke my 10lb dumbbell. I ended up calling the Napa parts on Havana (the one with the machine shop) and they broke it loose for me for $20ish. I asked them if it was easy and they said it wasn't, even on their press. Pictured below is one of the many failed attempts at removing the key.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AcvS_F7hBQbHv0of2tw_EM0hGaFS1XIBjBgi0CUaTNYngty024 DueJQCGblKocEMGBxCJVsZ6OpyAjXn5Cy00K2QvX0S0GnyNKNB QcQELmaC_L8dkwXOKFGCtcj0u4-0s3NR7Bp5o49_0WwCzGVDuvucV6mNcMi7BAN_PaJQNZq3k4oX0 OvGbgN1IjsWcv19AeDw-f5YzasIvwmn4G5Kh71aEIxtFHxj8VgJaa5k8725oRPdUuHA5Vv RaMF7taw1VSacuI10-Ib3oN8XtcOMJK0LclMI_y3BiBP_C8Mgv_c-eVF5JEtuQorVFPdSf0wND__Odg8Awk9hY0v4uNiL2iVC0PKzh_ JBdrOwX6ElBPBtMY3ff619eOuRxM4ivyfzJYexKHW2GRklod6t 8PB3G7GEsbfWRm_uR9ESfpvballdv42jnfcYW3uLx0mHtq4aw-gj3AwU2ywWPFZFvtOF1LLTc8MUAIyLGs37s5WnimvvNHfLZYIP 6wHzSc01YhVKGKd_zf9fZ9ZUXpi0w8CKcmABjRWn-UZRzwtLou5daoIwix71zWxOJvGNwtXYVcm-uojKBpou6u5aTX_zovrYH0_G6tFrTSoGqLpHi31H0xd0cUMZJw =w1689-h950-no
Here is the new bar next to the old bar. They look about the same, but the new bar is advertised as 30% stiffer, and the new definitely weighs more. Torsion bars are cheap for all other Isuzus and prohibitively expensive for my model. Figures.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o1oqKpbqdKJIQHAarA14kFSgUNQGs9kVT1_eRXHYXqzSOscDQ4 0OJebamF41riaqXxqt1RYq8SIWwRZWW1r0r61jM8ufjr1hqyTE T4Zpjz0utOyAkOZirwWbuew_Gvzz-Oa_iDRITOc8gexBIfoAmryGSWqQ-eWPEhiFC45Pe6MgZp4qKc3pujgOF0bua5Dhve1-rm9vQJKNgeaEDO9vt07Itm70rJWc67Ku7rmbfphaqY1Dtml7Qm 3ceRHLHEy-zayHjzAp3Csv9JwH1gZMAkr8DRMN6gS73IYuBaJ26hiEibJ6KO rUC8fKxpBQQroNvw78_uBIsFS6yOKXLBZrT4pdC18xB7j5hJXe 74luYPvGpC8IvDQt8rCh9Og6Efx__8lxM7af5LE6kZXNiLXFMv 6B-vitu0xYhZBYe51uGsTom67fH_3DXwwf8MhTBKFAG75d31VkFre SNmQrFDaUHRPKGyD8pVNl9TYglqDftmRHpPGNOiFdxJxNVXcmE CXNDepgn08pQug2AJ4IcPqVtogiqrxUs_x21x9bcsz9gvzNPjJ azWvSVeAu4hP8U_lOkD4LQzblgTuQQthOFbNGgG8U3HV6iYNsX wiRcOZ0QoLBNtF2EA=w1689-h950-no
New bar installed on driver side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8-FjruIFVJZMr1RHp7Xd1-a_cf-YUMbJ8isI4Qn5cgVpagGTRVGyAxQr49fQzeSrkfjFuRyEa7zxb qrXzbUGoXIAJezsZQhvrIciKGWXEBPk3gHLg6IianksWW1DwzG yjZwZJmdTPcuQF4QUku3P2dILB62mMh_GGL0P6-rx2ypa2XwRjUvWpsm8Z1BOw21qKUGx-xJcgwJ5Em8xxHMSc6nnZ0EjUmXpzqOknJw5DaPkvzEGCIovsUy gBUp42rnCmwUgRbFuS4ZQqEcR1czhSXQjmPPAutbPiFD5Qc3tc Ug785yf-CPBLhdSeQKXsln792y3CE5bLaVhQDfo8VbqiCDUjACygteb8n4 TaiU54lfPzJ7vW_PviyRk_Rr6eKCjylePHGGXVVwlqkhatAh80 CkRpECelsgqHPv03ML2B5K_9hJJagWje3JwALb6fji3r6ms2Bk dl1YT3-sRFviaSsIE9dXHjeBCNW6JU-ptsGfnJ_cjgtq6e8PnAwNEEKY-lzozpNLHDtlLUCQSMdGaYWPiIHHPk-IyEvQeyaZ29Bvt1biu0DptTe4M7JMTgXgLYlMLwBFHU6gIai_9 jkOt3Oz8KZ5Nx3U7OJaLKYyRHzh0xZ1Lcw=w535-h950-no
It's only three bolts. Two on the upper control arm up front.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yGY1ve9XshgghKdxnD_GjrWqS3UeN6rI48l78_anQWZBaUj7xH 8yTLiN9656cMVQJxJZBgfwe8Po5CNAEO_H4py2FHHRZYUFeMyJ G_yQ2R5cijZqnryiA9JBNzpdftB4KB3bb-r4Vmiaq3B3zgumVFzET7D9ZDxkEUQGlcUt2guKglfV1UIy6jiI hqMpWayRokOF7DAmuBUskooY0T7RHjcmgt7FJAQIorxftUKJ5M hTkpk6tV1lxJeDsaHTMY-ip3J8nWzsJW0JsMmgMXvrtDKGm0gRlOR53e2RNiujNZu41XjZy 6i0Wt054SMPAjCZxwT6Wl5Wl_nhpkJJJLrRQSlZGI559QOV3J8 tVg1acI0bpaRV9ajHjMjtBSKTYazqaiuGiABKpZhMeA7u0dgoQ FyZEiFDcl0fa0VdVhcpnX9ToRfARvxdNjmCC39JYL9eDyAWXNV 8rUNWbY8A9tPcyj2fEQW3lvkuwECnfJ_Y5JgvBx2NCmEUlUbcD 4LDb3nNICnVtkVLxhOIPH0xBqSShNgGj5jgkRg19F4_hKWxkeu cZZjk8P8EXtkFsjXo_UeQ_cIygPHQFYefkSlMx2Ko0F6ApEcJD Xogjgysme4qbze5i9wfYg=w1689-h950-no
And one large adjustment bolt (27mm) in the rear. Easy right?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ofrWPHlRMe7naJylVvU0wEaTaRi-p_ETROjW-Hc8YIWKBEEZJVWKIbDaZ25rQTVEjnvk6CEJtTAFnt24AT-_HLgUa48MO5HN4lEobnZTlHcXTvy9bUEdBNwBJ2YHU8mAcvtuB JbD205MyDvN-XRmCSqN4D5cYCK4w-0DEZs4jgabYR0APObPwvsQrNNcFwB1nPRJBsyPBF6naxbFRrK4 zOXGb9M-_zDZzwxivVEImSluCzFDANP_DS7wKqFfSCJdqwqWrd9EKWGipk T1-vknM9tBDS-BTeJO6Ga93CLoK1lvEvCpeaZTNM19hik9fKdQYLTnzgauFwY6x 8coprsb5lpKStyvnIogCZUmd-1cpSC8sE1ut-vBkLkP-hw5WwSQTx5C6BkNmIC4uf5PN3izJn1x6m1j2Ig-uzoXxItxl3u7JIUHvCzN-xlkAK9-MzZyIdb8S3vOTrFbasTGsWPBE9HoxiOpmxOz9jS-wkHasW26NYiyKalluoNXW0MWyIe56yyxVl91M635PaTm8fUa2D OIEKzuBnVSnUCinokd6pUqVHbWgI9m6FclDrRCvfsKtD6eSjb9 gEAAjZ0XffOBM4moXar8JLkbqfDBPryWB2HCGFkmaQ=w1689-h950-no
That's everything so far. I'll try to post up more photos of the front swaybar quick detach when I get around to it. If anyone has any suggestions for re-indexing the torsion bars, I'm all ears. I'm afraid to even drive it anywhere as it sits now.
After some research, it looks like I should have indexed the keys in such a way that they were angled up (45 degrees?) from the cross member in such a way as to just barely be able to get the bolt back through. I just laid the key all the way in the bottom of the saddle on each side. I bet that is the problem. Hopefully I can get it corrected tomorrow.
Also make sure you didn't switch up the L/R bars. I believe they are specific to each side.
They are, and I'm pretty confident I got that part correct. Thank you though.
Finally done. Now I have the same ground clearance as a Subaru Forester or F-150. Yay!
I'll post up a bunch of pictures all around.
View from other side is better, but can't see due to sun glare.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1loJIevnWbCs-QAA_s6jS3Gg1-VB2olw5-XDmNZGdYyZfHZ8jiLEOl4KNrJXYxmyJso9t34OWXhRUgCMHd_Y YMA0ua_BsPTNnh0Xbohfofx8H2g0EkcbWh-kwfkyUWq7rJIfHHQHCEA9iEr_F67T7BAzT37iqG3gNeXdMQrFF iqUZAjhYfDZTuPXP95C7UfCN_PYxAk8L1Y51vrjF4kgxHt5xQ5 HMdGCQKA88SYNP67X1ucNQGZ8Yu3fUuXCY712AwbTH4zuo_Fr6 GDGG1jdB6fbGifmh1JTgY0RoGD3MDtl-JfhJaJutdiffNYC7Ht9GDsb41149qiKNAJgFXXlgtjhItwOUbC ZM8eLNSPsiS6hXbmYaW5NjwYzJhGxRErr4pCD_NAMsaI7aEGGH PLRIx_to4W-ZZdLFhkKhTy2-5Bw1UCOtECgYBn-9A20jXtmSKPIvEiDJNeIjXtjhhL6uQrr8E5NXnV_m8CTTjxonD sIfqEqy4erbiNXHJGqjUQdILDo94d5nkI9Q8vDzlvZnhqDXad8 St1zgY4xEkKMK4odypWWvsueqNiTSh3XQOsrMj62uvD7u8szNI c7TDS237cjBnPlo0UIhHvAHQ1kbSbgGpXWww=w1689-h950-no
Having no rear sway bar feels pretty incredible going over bumps and the body stays much more flat. This should really approve off road capability for the Amigo.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wgYWsatD4G1pKgQDkFALUrprlJvjND1wA8Pgfz6SB_FQYNmaHQ eLrKjTL3keZhsztA6sl1pw3Ahiny3cBNmN5QACY87Ssk-rX1TTDdVjkd6TlWCX1MUdbt8YUBdAKj_-CUKEfYsR8JCG9asE5zm5quz6gLKROvUuuqiDCj-Lw5Pljmoh8w19QFixHYTOWmRSke7PwR69o0ZtS0rdB8-TIMbp-wovKBhu4RrOMofiKcjfM_Lfg67hVpH1pDtsNrokD_YU2bWuzeS ZbSU5qxTNjJcnu8e121pq056O6FZfuuRWLzasTVnzxFTS_CW2d XYhAO5pKtMD4zURXKy60uL7b9hShZAGUr5g5KbTf2RYAjW_iPe 8PVz2d4MpYfISz-1SZFEZk94v2SgylCWmkfXgbxQDF_VdQiQUWk6Kn1JW28Ri45nL Rm78GlMTNIeL4D-IgxB1Q_72c0TINV2n78g0qi0eIkkKAT3YooHbzBKxBJobk79AE GGRAmOUXxFuGGDaLB-_9CfHvNGc-OgOaKjUOH4s-T1EIKncdM8rY6WbCIMICXtRVws6ffN1Jt0y_YVLoilhp3hoeQZ cVoAPY67bLf8jGpe2UphoUt1dbbFXi5TNzXavIw=w1689-h950-no
You can really see how much flatter a solid axle allows the body to stay compared to IFS (Independent Front Suspension).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0dtwxDug6-otCLhlzJAHLDqL-AVlA3iadMTdVGyvPPsKVk57GxIFcYJU_ueF5TfxWf1DDHvtqYw VCqnd7DWfVc7pfhlfinUOOaoNHkMOUw_RFgbd5xlovaITxbQGa NoupzoJl0k125u_kQLeL0FgArH9GzfNnU37lJ9F3FuLapyCTxi PTBjHGez3pMyh59CcUEs_TQkn6m0YUIK1jYkErrAwoWhhdxpvp nznG3eYTC1ApjZNAZUiKnREcqV3nHl1KP7KbXmrnRySLE_Y96M 4oPvKa5PWh2yVvlxp7f90U3uAXMhD1gxyzUM3bZbCo_-E8irvaE8u3i_XuuccvitqmLpUq7ZLpdt8ffPCgyuKB71IOZYm-VGbDAfWfSts3KKkuEI4b1n3jMG7lh6MVvniEKJVqwvbWbnqeZx k9-tvtMputDv5AXCLKd7X0xCfxSzajK3qWoGjoBwnZdbjdsa20L0X keLNjNrx1L72GaBI_tLUyZs6NzUZkksYCeXvaHsiFQczRwwqmh 45EfBv2Gm0erqCW6jUkCNWvWshYy2jsvzZ1Ijun8IivNbDf7Xs aCVygGUHzy3uHbib4rtADSmug875PiZdH6OPJAfrc0d619PG_P dkdw=w1689-h950-no
VS.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ks9VqQo7bSrCcdpV8Fxi4TvPkKkMFvdzxDokS3eCy5qYtcMmW3 godYJd4SdOPjZnNWYV9Rd0_jsIOS1w5-tOtrrTXcs9wDNiYYL-U2-R2T1PVaS6mJ1TBKhsgkJd0ne6Kcda5T0VCbkg_E3387Cqi2zmN LfcIVCN1uK8lDkgZQ1kJttl8jtp_Hd_nBOG8X51bl-zoyT7oX465g1-iIaTGxclUrFw9_KuFM8GgR0OBduJ7LAx9QUCyjeXAr0jwlPpHz xCeFzaKg82es7ElL6blDqh0Nh162xWFYC-nMIpuEjuDZ2Ws3nysMNRytcTFq3R5E1WYFgqaKGvQoeO8QSWUf sQEPchQGeoAUDrmna2rozOELJ0wim5gtSuDkg6OQuWvVmdlcLv HektaIxwB5MFNyHCs-xdWNRZlG8yyaxD6sdV26E-UF7p-HFtAz_Cl7v315iFitbEaSUEyPD-82kU-0RyBR5SMu_IvcJy-WA7mJHU85vrYuV-2CnXA9kb-OhEgWtsQY_Cz_owe0Mov3qOQWnwrRbYfsaxrsp9yvF2zsC6HmR esxtX2AJ2owBfmc-2KI8rlpqveB391Em9fndYr8btiapdN99rT5himkjfREcPi74zw w=w1689-h950-no
Wheels tuck nicely. Isuzu's are handicapped by being low from factory and not having a lot of space to fit bigger tires without rubbing. I had to trim a lot just to fit these tires that are only about an 1" larger in diameter than factory. This will never be a Jeep (not unless I SAS'd the front anyway), but it'll do for mild trail fun.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MAQnqYhiz-9iSKFxwr9RGKMIWmNMR5dtUza7M7XSBz7ge08GKp8lfHWk3IKG oMAh5bGmSIcNcaPzLp9Mr36VFsUeXx32haydvBJm56OXlG_xEa hXoJLsO3K-VCHaOYhZubnDCik30rcSYsySUKsfsXHbqbkVzrW4A68Ig_1ATB xaJoWlWr0S9knoZN-UUqJZtqzEZUPqgjGujAP9k_2BQrSRmX67XaNeDoC8oMNtw_Xse yeJt9_4gri1WUSKX9Zla2eQUXNglbuD1nrDuanCQe07eaaKVbT xTxUiAlsEJc9iBNwddCZzOBr8DzmziFSt5iJZaxTtgGEcRXsTW Bfu45P4dsetIAccoCvljwY5LwCoQjG_VQ3E3C4T0Apf3jBdWIn 4U3EpPBKKXVfFORchdcWXp6qXPcYtQsq2BlqQn_INkMDqomi0M 2k3Zr4NZTHcmEzQviHJ2D79xgOPFp32gDiQfRRDD2dHg6f-nOXj7W6gikijvCqcOvanP0_cE0EwjwPrLvGWgVoKu8smeuQ7W2 0ExWFyYw87Sl-wEnqgsD88437tYvjMCWyC-RxdK1XpOrirsLpjOZMMQp3PQavYJyZBNKu0AOx-jHjZYUjX_rH_nGqy5g=w1689-h950-no
As I mentioned earlier, down travel on the driver side is now limited to when the upper trailing arm contacts the fuel tank. Darlington Off-road apparently makes a bent link. Calmini makes bent links, but only sells you both sides, and you only need driver side. In this photo, there is about another inch before the bar makes contact.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wiMdif4AgosWsTQQDd7oO_uKeMHNDNXIqkevhnhvnSzBnz-moV11c9yZiypaQlCUYekSdwa_mgqaYLgV_Xa5lHAHh3StN5ecI HE7SRxH45sZhjfn0MV78RmKuyCRN_H0e6gA04ByvOndJ-AX5aXnxRUyeTU2KsMm3aBZrr2S8hRL77VaeRzOeY97BltWROon QD0iFPcJhc4JpL8W4ZLZERRmFwlvHl1aRWRWG2MOdNYN-oWNCp-AgsIiKqb0uB-iOjxfAnTQCvYeH-xXpe4gX6KIrdlE2swwxxgg4LV4ZA1GKIfUEdLVNDtjFVozSjG3 RtNkvzeXaYWR1NI8WMb3mAavw3ujxYyaIoo5Rm0gatPu9S93Gl TuPFOv3zXoIj1bnZWUxNXcM61-u0VgA3_xKoQN5MNALQjwcN5Zsyy0BIMNBEDsG0DNjoV44-4Im3NaqoNjjRrl6r95jQqS2Mq2-V9zTh_UJwdCy9t49htBErSDkQSKlSqF823Q7mAkd__B48EC7He KgJGYt7t9s7YZH1tqBonGDH-PvGQi2Pbb9hmVaO6ReZGjNpsTCr5hwWEvNeToaizsB2r1taysl UmKAnGfifkZnm2NCQXWs_DVmF8Nb4ZflQ=w1689-h950-no
You can see that the front doesn't tuck as willingly as the rear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2FMqhjhAgPMqJDLfmwK5aJHXl1kfSICD4GylsC_21hopFei8nq CkZXJmYR2u1fgMJlGhiAmPdhJ-ZUGKz-05GR5fW0Lk_-nCR7RA8rjt_TIwUk8-B3fB0cm9Lgpb_ojZ5OTRNdcdCAqBgoHYzsIUeIAtDQ_e-h5o-ms9vlTbI2QGsMTKUdNfn2e0_jyd-Phip9KlOoDm-cW8mLdurboWi19h1xHGY6atwZeqEBYykWHw4ITksIlz9gz15K6 oKoWfIlGnsasDE9IejZ4PdqAac3svx4egJR7pzlE5Bj5uNJfAN zpMH5GT7BLVg-QjFXQJ42Rzc_W1H6ES8yUZg_8rnXBDBdVBirR4EcOGSnfULgY0 _PJNMO2bRkwDEC0YEpgsdAvgN6WFYCG54a0iPqsDH-a0F02MWf37INpQ-uKvisaO_zsbgHE4HTDSNXfr7sGeM5fx8MqO2Zz2h3YqP1m8vwl Af51g5Dok7ylp8rKcg5Auxbg0TnFtcsl3sxR-HqH9Sk2E2S6Gp6P28iZGnRb6H_QV8caP7_jdac-splsqp5NyxY_MY9rkZ8Nvz_7yb3J5DdGhLDscPXcH-iyVuEzg7M9QARZ95E7NjnptZQLutweCsBVgJQ=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3jx6UaVnzdZLbEEAYOV--o42U31hzN8gfBV-BisCjhp6o36BzJ-jWjvlx9CHNXFQ3ZM8jrXPIPx8wdKyhM-8hJ3FRessGM3BA0zXj-vHaeySyRXbRuzQi0JWfxNkwKYpCYjmCNP6dyj59vTArwkRDvkH q-2zQYmcmxH1a24cJokKMXlOuFgYq3Q1lvFF0eY0luVYguQ3eom6 fbPbbcU2reFlVq0j0QhBzz117TT2eiaZo4XkzQopjn8Nj4gkVo _s4Mf7tHqwKe70IxE4CvvGew0EvTk0-8jCIm6NKmBK4g1tteECNr9sP7ST0KyV13bY_eZOd6jsAGbafyg j4Hyndrtky-XlsimqHqhfLmjvjqlOqO-yM_7s6bHt1hvoAezdo5FcfFczxLvNAp9EWrUQDJ3pxpWHEOkIg OAN5VHBj3ugBksEgg1NjQlFBJLjtWfijiKPTuSpOTGV_7MEnlb w3Z6DltumNh-BvFMFPuNDo-9115ZaNAehYJPp5GbZWSDQ4CzwZ5nbcSqlse2qvzPZRTG-wD6NWYUSjQnXgtoQg7iL0AJfW4_5BKKI9oUBo_AR4v3ZNyeTRy bzs5cUSwdFeEH1BiPvu04cELyy0tym8uLH48l0iQ=w1689-h950-no
I took pictures of what I did wrong with the torsion bars, but I've got to run now so I'll post them later. As it sits, the front sway bars are disconnected, and will remain that way until I can make extensions because the bar rubs on one front shock or the other.
fportmen45
11-14-2016, 18:52
With that rig, do you need a front sway bar?
I could probably get away with taking it off, but I don't know how well it'd handle on the highway, and I definitely want it to be manageable for my wife. She had a steep learning curve driving it in the snow with the limited slip in the rear. It doesn't have a ton of horsepower, but it will readily throw the ass end around under throttle, even in the rain.
fportmen45
11-14-2016, 20:11
I could probably get away with taking it off, but I don't know how well it'd handle on the highway, and I definitely want it to be manageable for my wife. She had a steep learning curve driving it in the snow with the limited slip in the rear. It doesn't have a ton of horsepower, but it will readily throw the ass end around under throttle, even in the rain.
Makes sense.
It looks longer than a Jeep, but the wheel base is almost identical.
Here it is next to a Wrangler I parked next to today.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FhS-T00guJm0jYre7tDlchMtv_UwLFjlVMTj4RDivlypMnET-tWmhpTvx-urnRJBNuUMEpgAGAjg2R6jYJX8mjoKFKIlrCW5qfM_alJj4VA-WjXSTev8Chz2epB4dI2KljmxQI2i24_WnNw-yk1uCOed2zH70SfDD9E-pE_0VFlbs-x4Ns0qwvwvW_8fdzvLmhsQgmGvaNnHnoA-szOLhyRi2UiyeGkkmrv6xQ3j00XzwTjGkmU1FacBp8E85BL5ec 6pg6Kd7asVJ9MhiGjpfZIEmThf13VgyzhSZg0F3npei48OUvjh WV2hW9H6c0bv4jUStNchYAlPiNf8xUInlsy6SGY46EbZ2pTKK7 37Mpf600NAcTwPxRIJ7E7O8E0GNMCbTjuS0p_5jIjy8ryX5XC7 JzsB0APm3AaSNIoigp-4pA1LPr3FLO1oaXqXJlfMtYuZML7V4PmsYQ4oxIa3cCdxwOXCi sqZdCZKzSttn7CNpR7k6Kt24Hjhe_qju-jCwlx-HrSBztesECMYv8Df3cvwhT6VmgLbypGb7rcb3mN6o_ET2fRUyA zFmUtYeM9RcMaULveCGtN4UX2TsIV67M60UsiemK0smSokr5fz 76BrzxIPug=w1689-h950-no
Even lifted it still looks about the same size as the Jeep.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MMYd6YlEWXkT1V5zDob4U9iCHnzRcCjiKgfuNFJ0QfQNTd8iin jMw9pas2BsNTBoPGpP1fjK3n4ErzaXsBcfFr9IOyxQDmFFPCTu zTzR622dW-Ygs-x3-xm6RvOpnc8aJmCSl3cdp70cX37vTKsHcBmLgSRNjURmcZWua2x-WPPDnYgGP-2ZobB7zEC03Z2bizS58M7hq1-tCipM0pogVkN3xHEteyEtizuZpP7E3U5jF_7KkjrIWUCBNFTVQ _YC8aQSVLsVKa0gIXeNrbNlwpxxORrdauEVOj-oMrFmuoHxv-LzKnDggWkm-Ig8wZ75xgoZX_6DgzPhx-77aMg4c5cys-nKYNSJXntybkwqgvfBKBBEbRIEQMKPfswR5ZqcQZCWFqoTckp1 ZwQMf_IXIe20IfTrZKYjzY8pouFst7_G9hKR9QmDh0GrBUkxlC 1i2EoANXTj8rrS0F-zNnaXN2BBxxeM21Mm_BJfN0tzU5iFs_5Knc0tsYJrzWmdacJs-exU5h0ubX4vY-4Gj_izToTjKAMHAxz_4gy1GUZEA3J10SBB-r3hH1Kp_iv8x7gY-CEpy2osjFxAVeqNHRH_qwMCE6Y4N1wTDieVIP5JAT6EieWeuw= w1689-h950-no
newracer
11-14-2016, 22:22
Nice work, looks great!
Almost picked up a 99 Rodeo for my kids last night. Motor didn't sound right so I passed.
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Yeah, they tend to eat oil.
I can't catch them on trails, so I have to find them in parking lots.
Had to back him into a corner.
newracer
11-14-2016, 23:35
Yeah, they tend to eat oil.
It was "ticking" really bad. Power was good though.
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Looks great. I had a 98 Passport for years and loved it. Started to have some small issues at 185k and figured I was pressing my luck so traded it in. But it was a fantastic SUV--miss it sometimes.
Been reading through . . . props for doing all that work. I try to challenge myself with DIY where I can, but my confidence with vehicles is low. I wouldn't have a clue how to do any of that stuff.
Great-Kazoo
11-15-2016, 00:08
At another stopping point. The old torsion bars seem to be welded into the keys. I was able to easily knock off the control arm collars, but the keys are not moving a bit. They are going to soak all night in PB blaster and I'll see if anything changes in the morning. Right now the plan is to take them some where that can press them off for me. My trusted mechanic is unavailable right now, so I'll have to look around and find someone who can do what I need and hopefully not charge me a ton of money. After that, it's just six bolts and some adjusting.
Does anyone have a good source for where I can order parts to build my own quick disconnect sway bar links? EDIT: I need to order a couple of Heim joints.
EDIT 2: Looks like this site sells exactly what I need. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8158&PMPXNO=22569081
Now I need to figure out if I just want to use a piece of all thread (probably not) or find some studs that I can have welded together.
One guy I saw actually cut his front sway bar in half, then welded tubes on either side, and put a pin in a collar to hold the two sides together. When he goes to wheel, he just pulls that one center pin and the sway bar just twists independently on each side. Very cool, but I don't think I can hot link the photos onto this thread so you can see what I'm talking about.
If you ever need parts like this again, Rocky Mountain bearing, fastenal or Grainger. RMB is my first choice.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8158&PMPXNO=22569081
It was "ticking" really bad. Power was good though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IIRC here was a factory recall on "ticking" in the 90s, i had a '95 and didn't do the recall, sold it a couple years ago. Solid truck and motor.
If you ever need parts like this again, Rocky Mountain bearing, fastenal or Grainger. RMB is my first choice.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=327-8158&PMPXNO=22569081
Thank you, I've been looking around and it seems like I can source parts for much cheaper.
Martinjmpr
11-15-2016, 09:01
I could probably get away with taking it off, but I don't know how well it'd handle on the highway, and I definitely want it to be manageable for my wife. She had a steep learning curve driving it in the snow with the limited slip in the rear. It doesn't have a ton of horsepower, but it will readily throw the ass end around under throttle, even in the rain.
Wife has a 1995 YJ Wrangler, we were 'wheeling on Red Cone and had to disconnect the front sway bar - then the link got so mangled up we couldn't re-connect it so we just left it disconnected. Just have to be a little careful on the freeway (of course, even with the swaybar on, a Jeep handles about as well as a grocery cart on a skating rink so we would probably be taking it easy on the curves anyway...)
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