Might need a sewer repair in next ew months (from sidewalk into the main)

[USMC88-93]

If I end up actually needing a full repair / replacement does anyone know if any of the repair companies have finance for payment options....

It would not be my first choice or even in the top 10 for that matter but I currently could not take the financial hit for a repair an would need to find a way to finance it. Putting it on credit cards will not be an option.

[SideShow Bob]

Have you checked into a bank loan for the repairs, personal or equity ? Or look at your home owners policy to see if is covered ?

[beast556]

What type of repair? Do you know how to operate a
backhoe? You can always do a home equity line of credit if you have equity in your house.

[SideShow Bob]

Just an FYI, in most all municipalities, you are responsible for your sewer line all the way to the main connection. No sense in doing a partial job, go all the way from the house to the main. Remember Murphy, what you don't replace, will fail soon after the partial repair.

[Great-Kazoo]

Can you sleeve the existing line?

[USMC88-93]

Just an FYI, in most all municipalities, you are responsible for your sewer line all the way to the main connection. No sense in doing a partial job, go all the way from the house to the main. Remember Murphy, what you don't replace, will fail soon after the partial repair.
I would if I could, I could not afford the financial hit.


Can you sleeve the existing line?
I doubt it if it is the part that angles down into the main but I will certainly be asking about the options available when the guy comes to camera the pipe.

[gnihcraes]

Just don't call Applewood Plumbing and Heating - they will charge Full Retail.

Check with your sewer provider, they might have a recommended contractor.

[SideShow Bob]

Your sewer line should be a constant pitch of a minimum of 1/4" Per foot to the main, or about 1:50 (1 ft. in a 50 ft. Run.). There shouldn't be a sudden downward angle at the last bit.

[USMC88-93]

Your sewer line should be a constant pitch of a minimum of 1/4" Per foot to the main, or about 1:50 (1 ft. in a 50 ft. Run.). There shouldn't be a sudden downward angle at the last bit. House was built in 1942 on septic, at some point was tied into city sewer when that was is anyone's guess but late 40's to 50's is likely. neighbors down the block had a significant for lack of a better word down slope to the main once it hit the street.

Basically I should have went into the main when I had to do this repair, as always cost got into the way. They dug a a little more back to the house than these indicate. From the edge of the asphault to the main is where the new issue likely is I bet the tree roots migrated out and found a new place to kill my wallet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/House/sewer/tree_zpsg6ibfkg8.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/House/sewer/tree_zpsg6ibfkg8.png.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/House/sewer/tree5_zpstl6uz2ry.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/House/sewer/tree5_zpstl6uz2ry.png.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/House/sewer/tree9_zpsxfqbdjtd.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/House/sewer/tree9_zpsxfqbdjtd.png.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/House/sewer/tree8_zpsaqiul0be.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/PhotoTWB/media/House/sewer/tree8_zpsaqiul0be.png.html)

[Dave_L]

Have you looked into insurance? Not your regular home insurance but sewer line specific insurance. They have a 30 day wait period but you said youll need it in a few months so might be worth checking.

http://www.homeserveusa.com/sewer-septic-line-repair-plans

I dont know how being in mid process changes things but you never know.

[colorider]

Sorry to hear this. I just had a customer in Lakewood that had to have the same thing done. An expense that just plain hurts. I will also verify to NOT call Applewood Plumbing and Heating. 2 months ago they tried to screw my parents out of thousands in Lakewood for a new furnace. Their price was absurd compared to anyone else on the planet.

[Irving]

Regular home owners insurance almost certainly will not cover this, but I would look into what Dave_L posted.

[Wulf202]

Have you looked into insurance? Not your regular home insurance but sewer line specific insurance. They have a 30 day wait period but you said youll need it in a few months so might be worth checking.

http://www.homeserveusa.com/sewer-septic-line-repair-plans

I dont know how being in mid process changes things but you never know.

If you read the fine print on these types of policies they are just going to pay to snake it only

[TRnCO]

I work at a wastewater treatment facility. I used to clean and inspect pipe for 15 years. Probably ran a camera down 1,000,000 feet of pipe and have seen it all. Inspected pipes from 4" up to 110".
Sounds like you're not sure what the problem is yet so I'd say first figure that out and go from there. IF it's just tree root intrusion through joints or small cracks, the pipe doesn't have to be dug up, right now. But if the pipe is failing, cracking, collapsing, joints are getting offset, etc., then a dig is one of two ways to go. A slip liner is an option as well. BUT, if it's just roots and the pipe is sound there are products to kill the roots. Avoid the products that have copper sulfate in them.
We have a root killer product here at the treatment plant that we sell to our customers to treat roots. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than digging at about $25 per treatment and it needs to be done at least every other year but better to do it annually to keep the roots out. We have several customers that use it annually and swear by it. Once the roots are cut out of the pipe, this product is dumped down to kill the roots, without killing the tree or harming the treatment plant. If interested in this product, maybe we can figure out a way that I can get a can of it to you to help you out.
Best of luck to ya. Worst time of year for a problem like this to pop up.

[Sawin]

I work at a wastewater treatment facility. I used to clean and inspect pipe for 15 years. Probably ran a camera down 1,000,000 feet of pipe and have seen it all. Inspected pipes from 4" up to 110".
Sounds like you're not sure what the problem is yet so I'd say first figure that out and go from there. IF it's just tree root intrusion through joints or small cracks, the pipe doesn't have to be dug up, right now. But if the pipe is failing, cracking, collapsing, joints are getting offset, etc., then a dig is one of two ways to go. A slip liner is an option as well. BUT, if it's just roots and the pipe is sound there are products to kill the roots. Avoid the products that have copper sulfate in them.
We have a root killer product here at the treatment plant that we sell to our customers to treat roots. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than digging at about $25 per treatment and it needs to be done at least bi-annually but better to do it annually to keep the roots out. We have several customers that use it annually and swear by it. Once the roots are cut out of the pipe, this product is dumped down to kill the roots, without killing the tree or harming the treatment plant. If interested in this product, maybe we can figure out a way that I can get a can of it to you to help you out.
Best of luck to ya. Worst time of year for a problem like this to pop up.

The collective experience, connections, and resources of this forum never cease to amaze me!

[fitz19d]

Hell now i think i need some for the hell of it to make sure im root free

[ChadAmberg]

I work at a wastewater treatment facility. I used to clean and inspect pipe for 15 years. Probably ran a camera down 1,000,000 feet of pipe and have seen it all. Inspected pipes from 4" up to 110".
Sounds like you're not sure what the problem is yet so I'd say first figure that out and go from there. IF it's just tree root intrusion through joints or small cracks, the pipe doesn't have to be dug up, right now. But if the pipe is failing, cracking, collapsing, joints are getting offset, etc., then a dig is one of two ways to go. A slip liner is an option as well. BUT, if it's just roots and the pipe is sound there are products to kill the roots. Avoid the products that have copper sulfate in them.
We have a root killer product here at the treatment plant that we sell to our customers to treat roots. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than digging at about $25 per treatment and it needs to be done at least every other year but better to do it annually to keep the roots out. We have several customers that use it annually and swear by it. Once the roots are cut out of the pipe, this product is dumped down to kill the roots, without killing the tree or harming the treatment plant. If interested in this product, maybe we can figure out a way that I can get a can of it to you to help you out.
Best of luck to ya. Worst time of year for a problem like this to pop up.


Sounds like a group buy situation here...

So, why not use the copper stuff? Just not effective?

[EvilRhino]

PM sent

[Great-Kazoo]

Sounds like a group buy situation here...

So, why not use the copper stuff? Just not effective?

as long as it's not ammo or suppressors. i don't think the nods would mind ;)

[gnihcraes]

IF it's related to tree roots. Cut down the tree, usually cheaper. Solved my sewer problems 20 years ago. No problems since then.

[TRnCO]

copper sulfate is not good for the bacteria at treatment facilities, although a little here and a little there won't be detrimental to a wastewater treatment plant, but if everyone decided to treat their services with it on the same day, there would be an impact for sure.
We offer the product we carry to the customers in our district at our cost, BUT for the OP's situation I thought I'd offer it to try to help him get some more time before a dig, and that's IF they found tree roots were really the only problem. The product we carry can be bought on line as well, it's called rootx.