View Full Version : 2004.5 RAM/Cummins exhaust manifold leak advice needed
Since the thread I jacked and posted a question in got closed, I'll ask again.
Please, no vendor bashing, I'm just looking for technical experiences regarding two competing products.
The manifold on my CTD is leaking around cylinder #1.
Perhaps there's more going on, perhaps I can just retorque the bolts and/or replace the gasket. However, it seems to be a common issue of shrunk/warped/cracked OEM manifolds and most apparently chose to just replace it with an aftermarket.
That leads to my question. BD or ATS 2/3 piece manifold?
Seems the ATS is ceramic coated, the BD is burn off paint. Similarly priced.Performance/flow of the BD is reported to be better. I really don't have the truck BOMB'd, just an old Edge Juice and a free-flow muffler.
I would probably install studs instead of bolts. I may DIY, or I may just pay the labor to have a local shop do it. Trying to be mindful of the budget. Still deciding on that. Sounds like the heater bracket needs to be removed or cut as well and most say it's easiest to pull the turbo and bench fit to the manifold, but others have reported success leaving the turbo installed.
So I'm seeking real world experience with either product, and any first hand experience on DIY replacement.
P.S. I may just try to retorque the bolts, but fear the horror stories of snapped OEM bolts. I would prefer to soak them in PB first (anyone have some Kroil?)
Cheers
If you have Facebook check out Rocky Mountain diesel crew or colorado diesel crew. Lots more diesel guys there. Plus you wouldn't want to hurt anyones feelings on here
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BushMasterBoy
01-13-2017, 14:02
http://www.mikesfabshop.com/categories/products/03-07-24v-cummins-diesel-turbo-diesel-polished-exhaust-manifold.html
nogaroheli
01-13-2017, 14:22
http://www.mikesfabshop.com/categories/products/03-07-24v-cummins-diesel-turbo-diesel-polished-exhaust-manifold.html
My goodness that manifold is gorgeous.
Soak them replace the gasket and re torque the bolts. Take a look and see if its warped at all too before going crazy. Sometimes they just develop a leak.
ColoradoTJ
01-13-2017, 16:45
Since the thread I jacked and posted a question in got closed, I'll ask again.
Please, no vendor bashing, I'm just looking for technical experiences regarding two competing products.
The manifold on my CTD is leaking around cylinder #1.
Perhaps there's more going on, perhaps I can just retorque the bolts and/or replace the gasket. However, it seems to be a common issue of shrunk/warped/cracked OEM manifolds and most apparently chose to just replace it with an aftermarket.
That leads to my question. BD or ATS 2/3 piece manifold?
Seems the ATS is ceramic coated, the BD is burn off paint. Similarly priced.Performance/flow of the BD is reported to be better. I really don't have the truck BOMB'd, just an old Edge Juice and a free-flow muffler.
I would probably install studs instead of bolts. I may DIY, or I may just pay the labor to have a local shop do it. Trying to be mindful of the budget. Still deciding on that. Sounds like the heater bracket needs to be removed or cut as well and most say it's easiest to pull the turbo and bench fit to the manifold, but others have reported success leaving the turbo installed.
So I'm seeking real world experience with either product, and any first hand experience on DIY replacement.
P.S. I may just try to retorque the bolts, but fear the horror stories of snapped OEM bolts. I would prefer to soak them in PB first (anyone have some Kroil?)
Cheers
I put a 3 piece manifold on my 04.5 CTD, but it wasn't from leaking. I had to pull my head, and was doing a turbo, etc.....
We put on one of the Performance exhaust manifolds for 330.00. It was actually pretty nice, did a little port matching and it was perfect. I would recommend studs and you will thank me later if you DIY. It is a pretty easy job.
The manifold bolts may have lost the factory torque. Might want to look into that a little.
Soak them replace the gasket and re torque the bolts. Take a look and see if its warped at all too before going crazy. Sometimes they just develop a leak.
Would you recommend just replacing the one cylinder that appears to be leaking? I would assume that if it's not warped at all, I would need to loosen everything to replace even one gasket.
I'd do them all, you can slip just the one if you're in a hurry but you'll be most of the way there to get them all done and not worry about it until the bigger turbo bug bites you.
Would you recommend just replacing the one cylinder that appears to be leaking? I would assume that if it's not warped at all, I would need to loosen everything to replace even one gasket.
If you can change them all I would do it while its out. You can slip a straight edge like a ruler on the head to see if its warped as well as the manifold. A leak in the manifold will make you loose boost so I would change them all and it shouldn't be any harder than changing one. Just more of them. You can spray soapy water on the other cylinders where the manifold is and look for bubbles telling you its leaking.
I'd do them all, you can slip just the one if you're in a hurry but you'll be most of the way there to get them all done and not worry about it until the bigger turbo bug bites you.
No bug there. This thing tows my fiver and boat (at the same time) and while I do enjoy some additional power with the Edge, I'm mostly looking for reliability and longevity.
Grant H.
01-13-2017, 22:52
I'd do all the gaskets while you are in there. It's just as easy once you are there, and it's relatively cheap.
Of the two options you are looking at, I would vote ATS, mostly for the ceramic coating.
If you have some extra funds, I would suggest a https://steedspeed.com/ manifold. Fantastic manifolds with great features. If you get one, get the external waste gate pedestal. An external waste gate provides great head gasket protection, as well as providing the capability to tune your turbo for peak efficiency.
I'd do all the gaskets while you are in there. It's just as easy once you are there, and it's relatively cheap.
Of the two options you are looking at, I would vote ATS, mostly for the ceramic coating.
If you have some extra funds, I would suggest a https://steedspeed.com/ manifold. Fantastic manifolds with great features. If you get one, get the external waste gate pedestal. An external waste gate provides great head gasket protection, as well as providing the capability to tune your turbo for peak efficiency.
Thanks.
Again, not looking for massive upgrades, just the most cost effective and reliable fix. I've only got 60K on this truck. Yes, you heard right, 60K.
I think I'm first going to pick up a set of gaskets and try to just replace them. If I break a bolt, then plan B TBD. I have another vehicle, but want to get this sorted out well before towing season (lake trips) start.
As it stands now, I also need a full driveline fluid service and to adjust the trans bands. I replaced the pan with a Magtec around 10K and realize I haven't done the proper trans service on it since.
I soaked it down in PB today because I had some, maybe I'll see if NAPA has proper gaskets for not too much $$$ and tackle it this weekend.
If a gasket is loosened from its torque it needs to be replaced loosening the manifold and slipping in a new on the suspect cylinder is asking for trouble.
New studs and nuts for everything new turbo gaskets straight edge the manifold follow factory torque procedures.
Buy the parts from a cummins factory dealer and you get one year 100k warranty
If a gasket is loosened from its torque it needs to be replaced loosening the manifold and slipping in a new on the suspect cylinder is asking for trouble.
New studs and nuts for everything new turbo gaskets straight edge the manifold follow factory torque procedures.
Buy the parts from a cummins factory dealer and you get one year 100k warranty
Rocky Mountain Cummins used to be a client, but it's been a lifetime... Not even sure they're at the same location.
Shoot me a pm. All I need is an engine serial number
Well, after further inspection (to get the engine serial#) I find this is a bigger problem.
The bad - exhaust manifold is cracked.
The worse - the turbo exhaust side flange also appears to be leaking/cracked.
[Bang]
ColoradoTJ
01-14-2017, 17:05
Well, after further inspection (to get the engine serial#) I find this is a bigger problem.
The bad - exhaust manifold is cracked.
The worse - the turbo exhaust side flange also appears to be leaking/cracked.
[Bang]
Turbo exhaust band tight?
The worse - the turbo exhaust side flange also appears to be leaking/cracked.
[Bang]
I've seen my fair share but I never seen one crack (not that it hasn't happened). You probably need a new flange gasket and mounting hardware too. The Gasket usually has a couple clamp tabs that poke out on two of the corners which can give the appearance of cracks when the gasket goes tits up. If it's the back side to the exhaust, those vband clamps like to crack after a while too.
I'll try to get pics in the light tomorrow.
Pretty clear to me that by the soot marks on the turbo housing and a hairline crack, it's fuxored.
Still haven't gotten pics.
Convinced my manifold is cracked/leaking. Jury still out on the turbo. Pending further inspection, Lord I hope I don't need to order a new turbo too. Looking at the BD Killer B if I must.
Ordered some parts yesterday. BD manifold and gasket set. Still need to figure out a good stud kit.
I'm super leery of buying any Dorman parts, most are junk in my experience. Not sure who makes the kit Geno's sells but I can probably source something from Fastenal.
DFBrews, I've seen mention of using the stock Cummins turbo studs/nuts. Any recommendations? Need 10-1.5x65mm(?) seems 62-65mm is the right length to stud without worrying about the heat shield going back on but I haven't had time to dig much further.
Well farts.
I expected to be able to do DIY this, but it looks like it's gonna have to go into the shop. Pretty bummed at this point. $$$
I got exactly 4 bolts to come loose without too much complaint, didn't press my luck on the others. The #1 cylinder top was already broken and the bottom let go with very little pressure from a 3/8 ratchet. [Bang]
99% certain I have a turbo leak here too.
68854
68855
68856
68857
Must be a Dodge thing with those bolts. My gas engine broke a few of them near the back cylinders. Got all of them out except one and then I got pissed off and just put it back together that way for now.
Maybe some day when I'm super bored I'll yank that head and fix it right. At least the new gasket and the bolts I did replace silenced the exhaust leak for now.
Oh, and yours look fairly easy to get to. The angle of the head on my V-8 and the fact that I had a steering shaft and frame in my way made mine a real pain in the a$$.
Oh, and yours look fairly easy to get to. The angle of the head on my V-8 and the fact that I had a steering shaft and frame in my way made mine a real pain in the a$$.
It's probably not a bad job for the right shop with the right tools - as in a drill guide. Not something I expect to invest in.
I just hope the rest, particularly #5 and #6 come out OK. Probably should have some heat first too.
I fear this is going to turn out to be an expensive repair at a time I cannot really stomach sinking more money into my vehicles.
Grant H.
01-20-2017, 19:39
That's never fun.
Travis at BH Diesel would be a good option down south.
Dark Horse Diesel by Johnstown would be another excellent option. Dave and Ronnie are both good options and they do good work.
Rich Rhoades of R&B Automotive is also a well liked/respected diesel shop in the area. They are up in Ault.
I'm going to go Monday and talk to Tom at Diesel Repair. He's always been straight with me.
I hate to drive it far in it's current condition with both #1 bolts out/busted, and a distance tow isn't palatable for me either. They are just 3 miles from me.
Grant H.
01-20-2017, 21:29
I'm going to go Monday and talk to Tom at Diesel Repair. He's always been straight with me.
I hate to drive it far in it's current condition with both #1 bolts out/busted, and a distance tow isn't palatable for me either. They are just 3 miles from me.
If you've got a shop you trust near by, that's the way to go.
If that isn't going to work PM me. I have several diesels and more than a few trailers. No sense in paying for a tow.
If you've got a shop you trust near by, that's the way to go.
If that isn't going to work PM me. I have several diesels and more than a few trailers. No sense in paying for a tow.
If it comes to that, I have a friend in Elizabeth with a car hauler and truck. I know it's had at least one Dodge on it (out of state purchase, haha).
Thanks just the same.
Impressively low mileage for your truck though. My 02 has 100k on it and runs like a dream. I drove a new 2017 dually today and may be special ordering one as a new tow rig. Keep my old trust as a daily driver!
Impressively low mileage for your truck though. My 02 has 100k on it and runs like a dream. I drove a new 2017 dually today and may be special ordering one as a new tow rig. Keep my old trust as a daily driver!
Thanks.
Tows my fiver/boat a few times a year. Elk hunting each year. HD runs, Gun club runs, etc.
I did drive it to DIA twice a month when my car was down to town driving only for a while (TC clutch).
It's a shame that with such low miles, I'm having to deal with this. It does have a mild tune (Edge Juice) but I really don't ever go past 3 or beat on it and always idle it for a few minutes and let the EGT's drop 400* or below before shutting down.
fairrpe86
01-22-2017, 01:38
It sounds as if you are east of Parker with your reference to Tom's shop. I have a friend that works on mainly cummins and 7.3 powerstrokes. He is just the other side of Delbert Road, does fantastic work and tends to be a fair amount cheaper than most other shops. I am more than happy to PM you his information if you would like it. He is a very honest and straight forward guy that will not give you the run around on things.
It sounds as if you are east of Parker with your reference to Tom's shop. I have a friend that works on mainly cummins and 7.3 powerstrokes. He is just the other side of Delbert Road, does fantastic work and tends to be a fair amount cheaper than most other shops. I am more than happy to PM you his information if you would like it. He is a very honest and straight forward guy that will not give you the run around on things.
Sure, send me a PM.
If he has the proper tools and skills, I'm willing to talk to him.
It sounds as if you are east of Parker with your reference to Tom's shop. I have a friend that works on mainly cummins and 7.3 powerstrokes. He is just the other side of Delbert Road, does fantastic work and tends to be a fair amount cheaper than most other shops. I am more than happy to PM you his information if you would like it. He is a very honest and straight forward guy that will not give you the run around on things.
Thanks for the referral.
Looks like your bud will save me some $ and can do the job right.
Just as a followup to the thread.
Thanks again to fairrpe86 for the referral. His guy got me squared away and did a great and very reasonably price job on my truck. Took a while to get into his queue, but it was worth the wait. Some of that was parts availability (turbo housing). I ordered a BD 2-piece manifold to initially attempt the repair myself, but gave up after not making much progress with the bolts and breaking one so easily.
He changed out the manifold for me - three total broken bolts, the one already, the one I broke, and another on the #6 cylinder that let go during repairs. He also changed the (cracked) turbo exhaust housing with a checked out (OEM) reman part for a super reasonable price. He said every bolt was pretty bent and required some extra efforts to remove.
I also had him adjust the bands on my trans which also entails replacing the filter and (some fluid) to adjust the reverse band. Something I was prepared to do myself, but since it was in his capable hands, I had him do it. Jury is still out on the trans as it was acting weird before, while 4x4 elk hunting, but that's not his doing, it's mine for not servicing it sooner.
I'm very pleased with the work and wouldn't hesitate to use him again if he's available.
Had a very cool shop that I unfortunately didn't' get enough time ogling, and a cool rock crawler project I would have liked to eyeball closer and learn more about. My mistake for having the wife come pick me up too soon during the drop off. lol.
fairrpe86
04-09-2017, 13:29
Glad to hear things worked out well for you. Nik does good work at a very fair price. I received your PM and tried to reply but it appears you are out of storage room for new messages.
Follow up to post.
Trans problem ended up needing a new governor pressure sensor transducer and solenoid kit. I put in the aftermarket ones everyone on the cummins boards were recommending.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/sun-coast-618-gk-governor-pressure-solenoid-upgrade.aspx
https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1060602-pressure-transducer-upgrade-kit.aspx
Truck has been running great otherwise, but popped a manifold-turbo gasket on the first hard pull back in July. Minor pinhole leak. I couldn't ID where it was from at first (except for the noise) until the soot built up and I'm just getting to the point where I need to fix it. With the 2-piece manf and everything else new, I'm hoping I can just pull the back half w/turbo off and get it on the bench to replace the gasket.
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