View Full Version : Buying a vehicle with a Rebuilt title
how does registering a vehicle with a rebuilt title work? Title is rebuilt out of WI. I normally wouldn't look at something like this however if the price is right it could be in the cards.
Great-Kazoo
05-15-2017, 08:45
if it's rebuilt, why? Accident resulting in totaled vehicle (bent frame) OR flood?
Most ins co. will only offer basic liability? on what's considered a Salvage Title vehicle.
Registering it requires a VIN verification. Either through the CSP or your local PD (if offered) before doig the same process as any vehicle.
It's pretty straight forward if it has a Colorado salvage title. My guess is with the out of state title it will be a royal pain in the butt.
Can't say much about buying one from out of state but for insurance purposes, you'll only get liability only on it. You wont be able to put full coverage on it.
if it's rebuilt, why? Accident resulting in totaled vehicle (bent frame) OR flood?
Most ins co. will only offer basic liability? on what's considered a Salvage Title vehicle.
Registering it requires a VIN verification. Either through the CSP or your local PD (if offered) before doig the same process as any vehicle.
Correct. If your local PD won't do it, call the nearest CSP division and stop by and they will do it. As for insurance, yes, if you just want to insure it under a normal auto-policy, liability only. But, you can still insure it for stated value (might require an appraisal) or scheduled personal property. Check both ways as one will be less than the other depending on your carrier.
Vin verification can be done by any licensed dealer (some wont) and most emissions places also.
Carfax and verify why the salvage if possible
I know from first hand experience that if you transfer a salvage title here in Colorado you have to have a statement from the seller stating why the vehicle has a salvage title. They won't transfer the title without it.
Besides all of the VIN verification stuff you'll want to get that statement from the seller along with a title and bill of sale.
Also, if the state you are buying it from requires anything to be notarized make sure that gets done as well. I bought two motorcycles from out of state and was informed that whatever was required in that state was what I needed. In other words, even though Colorado doesn't require any of that stuff to be notarized since the state I got the vehicles from does require it then everything had to be notarized.
I also bought an out of state motorcycle with a salvage title. Even though state site says it transfers like any other out of state vehicle, Arapahoe county needed extra paperwork like Ray said. I needed the seller to fill out a form as to the why, and also a statement of where the repair parts came from. When I sold the bike, it sold for half price because of the branded title. I was able to get full coverage insurance with State Farm. Not that they would have paid out if I had a claim. If its cheap, buy it. Know that it will be a tougher car to sell. It takes almost nothing to total a car now days. Do not buy anything that was totaled buy any sort of water damage. That is an electrical mess waiting to happen.
I have purchased a vehicle from AutoSource in Windsor that has a branded title and frankly, I could not be happier. It was one of those cases some of you have alluded to where a vehicle was in an accident and the owner just let it go... mine never should have been totaled, but it was.... In comes AutoSource. They locate cases just like this and refurb them to damn-near-new levels, and sell them at a huge discount. Insurance was a complete non-issue and my rate was entirely unaffected by the branded title.
http://www.myautosource.com/branded-title-vehicles.htm
Essentially, I bought a $40K car for $17,400 with 20k miles on it, maintenance records, etc. The story was that the driver side doors, windows and airbags had been replaced after being side swiped (100% certain it was not t-boned and the doors were entirely replaced). No interior, frame or engine bay issues at all.... and even after extremely close inspection, there is only 1 sign I can find that it's not entirely original. I intend to drive this car for 8+ years and have complete confidence in it... I just got to keep a lot more of my money and drive a really nice car.
Thanks for link. Those are some good prices. Good deals on late model cars. If you know what your getting into its fine. Just stay away from water damage.
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