View Full Version : building a house (buying new Constr.)
Looking for a new house in the next 6 months and the realtor suggested looking at building a new home.
What's included:
Land
house
utilities
unfinished basement
What are some questions or concerns with having a house built? What do I need to ask the realtor or contractor?
*****UPDATE*****
We decided it is either a pain in the ass, or not as much pain but still stressful, but are taking the leap and going to have one built!!!!! Just put in an offer today and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for all the help so far, I will definitely have to stay on top of the build as it goes along and make sure I ask every question possible in the next few days as we negotiate everything out.
Thanks again!
IDK, but I'd say make sure you dont set yourself up to be dependant on them being finished on time. I've known 2-3 people who got screwed by houses going a few to several months over deadline. One of them had shit royally messed up. (Custom house, but guy was painter, gave them the name and paint codes, they still got a paint with similiar name that was wrong color, so the stucco had to be shaved down and repainted.)
Custom semi custom or spec?
IDK, but I'd say make sure you dont set yourself up to be dependant on them being finished on time. I've known 2-3 people who got screwed by houses going a few to several months over deadline. One of them had shit royally messed up. (Custom house, but guy was painter, gave them the name and paint codes, they still got a paint with similiar name that was wrong color, so the stucco had to be shaved down and repainted.)
we already have a townhouse and don't have a time limit if building. But the sooner the better obviously
Custom semi custom or spec?
It would just be a basic spec home, that you can add more custom things too. We are trying to not add any extra costs since it's at the top of our budget as is.
Great-Kazoo
06-03-2017, 18:40
Built in an existing or new construction neighborhood. Or built as in a piece of property?
In Cheyenne or in the hot CO market I know the GC's are booked for months right now
We are still battling with our builder. Contract was signed in March 2015 with a completion date of December 2015.....
We have Certificate of Occupancy and are living in the house but going back and forth on the stuff he said he would do. It's an awesome headache!
Built in an existing or new construction neighborhood. Or built as in a piece of property?
new development. There are already a few houses in the "neighbor hood" each plot is 8-10 acres
In Cheyenne or in the hot CO market I know the GC's are booked for months right now
Just outside Cheyenne still in Wy. Builders are already putting up a house in the new neighborhood so could quickly put up another and more.
Great-Kazoo
06-03-2017, 22:27
Before you sign anything. Read the contract. THEN read the fine print. Until the development is finished. All current and future owners are responsible for road upgrades, fees to local town for anything. You could be living there and charged a few thousand more than what you planned on, for those fees.
kidicarus13
06-03-2017, 22:57
We have CO and are living in the house but going back and forth on the stuff he said he would do. It's an awesome headache!
CO means Colorado to 95% of people. Just saying.
encorehunter
06-04-2017, 08:40
Make your changes BEFORE construction starts. Make no or the fewest changes possible one construction is started. Little changes add up fast, and can add days or weeks to schedule.
I just finished this headache. Semi custom home on a couple acres. Between myself and my neighbors that used the same builder (bill most const. don't ever ever ever fucking ever use these guys) it was a nightmare, a marital strain, family strain, lots of personal stress lots of ups and downs.
We are happy with the house now it's all finished, but there is a lot that goes into building a home. This was our second build but the previous was an established commercial builder who had everything laid out for you and made the process simple, upfront with pricing established, a single design center to pick options with pricing written next to the option.
These jokers we used had subcontractors that had no idea what shit costs, wouldn't give you the pricing, would send stuff to the builder they would delay getting it to you then let you know what pricing is after it's installed... the actual builder (Bill) passed away during our build, his sons took over who are definitely going to be out of business sooner rather than later. Timeframe....no such thing. We were almost a full year late getting into the home compared to our signed contract proposed closing date.
Now the warranty process is a joke 95% of the time because they don't have enough people to fix their screw ups and they are so cheap they don't want to pay anyone else besides their established subs who did the original work. I haven't had a check in from the builder to see how things are going, I have to send multiple emails to get a response to a problem.
One example is our garage door opener ripped out from the wall because the fucktard put three lag screws in the bracket and only 1 barely caught the edge of a single stud. This damaged 2 panels on the door. It took over a week to get the panels replaced. And over 2 months later my door panels were finally repainted day before yesterday. This is after multiple emails, the owner of the garage door company saying they were at fault and would cover cost of reprinting door. Yet the builder told me this warranty issue wouldn't be taken care of until they finish the other homes they are still building.
I can go on and on. If you really want to do this I'll talk to you on the phone and give you as much advice as I can but depending on the builder the process can be difficult or it can be a downright nightmare.
Making the crews that did the work also do their warrantee work is standard. Getting 2 panels in a week is standard to fast
2 months to paint is excessive
The only companies who do warrantee work without making the subs do it are big builders. I have known a couple of their warrantee guys. I wouldn't buy from a generic box builder at all
Personally if I were to buy I would only buy an older home or build my own.
Change orders are a pain, that's why I quit doing custom home remodels.
If the numbers aren't set from the start, make sure they involve you in the bid process. My builder was using all of their buddies from up in Greeley, and not getting local bids. For example, the electrician they used tried charging us for drive time from his place up there, when there are electricians within 5 miles of my house.
We are pretty set on building, it's too good of a long term investment to pass up.
These are the questions I have currently that we will ask our realtor this week.
HOA's or Covenants?
how much can we negotiate to keep it under 300k? i.e. no pato but a fence around a "back yard"
How long to build the house?
Can we choose location on property?
water well/Septic?
Propane or CLFP?
Is there a deposit for build?
when do we make our first mortgage payment?
What are the road fee's and associate fee's in the covenant?
when do we sit down and pick out floor plan, colors, etc.?
Any extra closing costs like realtor fees, contractor fees, VA fees?
Is final price set in stone BEFORE they start to build?
If you work something out in that price range etc let me know. Might actually be interested to get us into Wyoming and out of CO but possibly still a long commute to work distance.
Each builder is different but I can answer a few of your questions:
More and more places have HOAs, will still fall under some type of county restrictions
Usually fence not included but can be negotiated into price
Good luck
Typically yes, depends on several factors but if you have a septic and leech field, that will play a role in home location
Depends on location, just remember a well is great until you run out of water and have to drill deeper or replace the pump. Average $100/month water bill, put that away into a saving account for the time you need it. Septic is usually every 2-3 years to get pumped.
Depends on location
Almost always a deposit. We heard various deposit amount from $10k-50k
No idea
Some builders have a design center that is all inclusive and you pick everything there, we had multiple places that we had to pick cabinets, granite, flooring, paint, shingles, tile etc.
This is where you want to be exact, get everything picked ahead of time the way you want or make sure there is an allowance (like $5000 for granite countertops and $10,000 for cabinets etc) built into the contract. If you go above those allowances you pay the difference. This can be done for any contract work like your fence, septic, well, etc. if it goes that deep you will want to call around on prices, and negotiate in contract that you will have option to pick different contractors to do work.
It can be set, but usually not. A base price is typical, but extras can add up.
If you can pull it off, and if I ever had to build again....I would buy the land and own it out right, subcontract out everything myself and be present for everything. Write your own contracts with each subcontractor and if they don't perform, they don't get paid till it's right.
newracer
06-05-2017, 07:33
After the house is done and you close there are still costs a lot of people do not plan for; landscaping, window coverings, appliances that were not included, to name a few.
After the house is done and you close there are still costs a lot of people do not plan for; landscaping, window coverings, appliances that were not included, to name a few.
Very good point! We have asked some of the questions and our appliances are going to be included in the build, we would have limited selection of color of carpet/hardwoods/granite etc. but a fence for a backyard would be extra, not included in the "house sell" but could hire them at the time of build to put in a fence at the same time.
Updated first post. We decide to take the leap and build! Now keep up the good ideas that I will need to be concerned with as we negotiate the next few days.
Everything will be built to code but you might want to see what insulation they put in, getting it upgraded now can save in the long run.
Each builder is different but paint is paint. See if they will do two tone or different colors in different rooms if you want something other than white.
Make sure grading is included around the house and you aren't left with a mess
See if AC is included.
See if you can pick the front door out
What type of windows are included. Now is the time to upgrade is you want something better or more efficient
Get yourself a full set of the blueprints so you can keep an eye on what is being built.
I had a Classic home built years ago, and snagged a copy of the prints from the sales office.
We'd stop by a few times a week in the evening to see how the house was progressing.
Throughout the construction, I had to visit the foreman multiple times to correct work that had been done.
Things like:
Plumbing placement in the unfinished basement - exposed pipes did not line up with where the finished walls were going to go in.
Mechanical room placement of appliances and vents
Light fixture and switch placement
Exterior window trim - sub tried to take shortcuts
Front porch trim - more shortcuts
Etc.
They tried to argue at first, but after showing them on the plans where they screwed up, they just started taking my word for it and fixing as they went.
Check everything from the foundation up - the sooner you find a problem, the cheaper and more likely it is for them to fix it right.
Also, check the drainage plan - I've known many new homeowners who had minor to major drainage issues which could have been completely avoided in the beginning, but once the foundation is in, you're stuck with possibly extensive measures to mitigate it.
Good luck
Everything will be built to code but you might want to see what insulation they put in, getting it upgraded now can save in the long run.
Each builder is different but paint is paint. See if they will do two tone or different colors in different rooms if you want something other than white.
Make sure grading is included around the house and you aren't left with a mess
See if AC is included.
See if you can pick the front door out
What type of windows are included. Now is the time to upgrade is you want something better or more efficient
Get yourself a full set of the blueprints so you can keep an eye on what is being built.
I had a Classic home built years ago, and snagged a copy of the prints from the sales office.
We'd stop by a few times a week in the evening to see how the house was progressing.
Throughout the construction, I had to visit the foreman multiple times to correct work that had been done.
Things like:
Plumbing placement in the unfinished basement - exposed pipes did not line up with where the finished walls were going to go in.
Mechanical room placement of appliances and vents
Light fixture and switch placement
Exterior window trim - sub tried to take shortcuts
Front porch trim - more shortcuts
Etc.
They tried to argue at first, but after showing them on the plans where they screwed up, they just started taking my word for it and fixing as they went.
Check everything from the foundation up - the sooner you find a problem, the cheaper and more likely it is for them to fix it right.
Also, check the drainage plan - I've known many new homeowners who had minor to major drainage issues which could have been completely avoided in the beginning, but once the foundation is in, you're stuck with possibly extensive measures to mitigate it.
Good luck
Huge helps!!! I am now starting a word document of all this together so we can make sure we stay on top of all this!
newracer
06-05-2017, 18:48
As sniper7 said pay for extra insulation in the attic as it should be very cheap during the build and it will make a lot of difference.
With my current house the builder walked us through the whole house when all the rough framing, electrical, and plumbing was done. We looked at the placement of every outlet, light, switch, and cable/cat 6 location. That is the time to move or add anything.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Another thing is make sure you have access to the house throughout the build. Tell them you want to go in and put in some things to make your life easier. As long as you aren't in the way it shouldn't be a problem.
A few things I would recommend is putting supports up for any pictures or decorations (for me it was big game animals). I cut 2x6s down and put them between studs so I could center animals.
Same goes for TVs. Make it easy on yourself and put an outlet up high where the tv will go on the wall and next to that have a tube with a cover plate that runs down to a lower cover plate where you can run wiring, and have another outlet down there for your different DVD and game systems etc. and put 2x6s in the tv mounting location for both the upper and lower mounting brackets (I used 4x 2x6 per tv location).
Then it is as simple and making it level in the spot you want in and screw in lag bolts and you will hit wood anywhere you drill.
Another thing I did was run low voltage wiring during the framing process before drywall. i have a camera system which I still have to install but all the wiring is ready to go, no crawling through insulating and feeding and fishing wire all over the place. Figure out your potential spots, label them and run the wire. Super easy and convenient.
Some stuff is hard to visualize off plans, or looking at bare 2x4s. But if you think something is off or don't like it, just speak up. Now is the time to change it or clarify what you want. Just remember YOU will be living there, not the builder, not the subcontractors etc.
Thanks sniper.
What would be "sufficient" attic insulation vs something you would suggest? spray in, batting, R-value etc.?
Attic insulation you want is r-38 or better.
R38 at a minimum. I'm not an expert in insulation but current codes are set for a lot better efficiency. But if you go the next level up or get around r49 (I think that's what we got) then you get a little better efficiency for not much more money I think we paid $300 more. We got the blown in type.
Very good point! We have asked some of the questions and our appliances are going to be included in the build, we would have limited selection of color of carpet/hardwoods/granite etc. but a fence for a backyard would be extra, not included in the "house sell" but could hire them at the time of build to put in a fence at the same time.
Updated first post. We decide to take the leap and build! Now keep up the good ideas that I will need to be concerned with as we negotiate the next few days.
Make sure you look at the allowances for appliances, carpet, granite, hardwoods etc....
Not sure if you've looked at appliances lately but you can go down a rabbit hole quickly.
All solid advice in this thread....wish I had this when we started building.
Also, I would go look at some of the builders previous builds or new construction.
Do you have allowances for items that can be adjusted?
I.e. $20,000 for a septic system, $15,000 electrical etc. but I only need $15,000 for septic and put the other $5,000 towards electrical upgrades?
All excellent advice here. I would add one thing: photograph everything, every phase of construction, every excavation, the septic and sewer lines, every wall, floor and ceiling, insulation, roof panels, even the people working on the job. If it's a slab on grade, shoot the pipes with reference locations before it's buried. Photograph every wall as the rough plumbing goes in; all walls and ceilings where electrical wires, junction boxes, switches and outlets are or should be. Wherever you can, use a tape measure in the photos for spacial reference. You can't imagine how valuable this can be down the road if you have problems or want to make changes in the future.
I built our own home with help of a good framer and his son. I contracted the concrete work, the septic, electrical, plumbing, insulation, drywall and cabinets, but we did everything else including windows and doors. I installed the phone, security and sound system wires, the evaporative coolers and ductwork, did additional insulation and all the paint work. I also installed the 850 ft. utility trench for power, natural gas, water, phone, irrigation lines and remote electric power for the irrigation pumps. We did it all on 20 acres of farmland for $119K, total. The house was featured in a building magazine for it's innovative design. The house is unique, simple and efficient. It's light and bright with lots of large windows, and we love living there.
I photographed our home building project with 35mm film, before digital cameras. We put together two albums of printed photos of the construction project, all the walls, sewer, people, everything. I subsequently digitized all the images. It's the best family album we have, and the most useful. Take lots of photos, you can't take too many.
Do you have allowances for items that can be adjusted?
I.e. $20,000 for a septic system, $15,000 electrical etc. but I only need $15,000 for septic and put the other $5,000 towards electrical upgrades?
Depends on the contract. Usually each allowance is a use it or lose it. We only had allowances for items we wanted to pick to customize, so flooring, countertops, cabinets and appliances.
Appliances we ended up asking for a credit off the purchase price and bought our own. We went through costco and got free install and a lot better warranty than anywhere else we looked. If you go this route make sure you bring up install as your builder may say you are responsible for getting them delivered and installed.
Another item I would suggest upgrading is garage door openers. I got the chamberlain ones that are wifi controllable, belt drive for quiet, much nicer than the cheap contractor grade they typically install. They said they wouldn't install but I could pay the door guys to do it and they gave me a credit for the included door opener.
Well then they installed their openers....so I had to uninstall those and install the ones I bought myself....that is after one of the ones they installed ripped out of the wall and ruined 2 panels of the door that took 2 months before they got it repainted. That is one example of the types of headaches you will deal with!
And I second what Hummer says about pictures. Take a ton! It will help later on if you have any issues, or want to see where studs are at for hanging something, or where wiring runs etc.
Good Call on the Quiet openers... I will see if we can work that into the deal.
As for appliances, that was contracted in we must use their appliances. But they are Stainless, whirlpool and top grade (I'm guessing he's getting a major discount since he's building a bunch around the city). We plan on visiting at least once a week to check the progress - I will make sure I take pictures the whole time. I also want to have them plum in a gas outlet out back so I can hook up a grill on the back patio.
My Father-in-law can have a septic system priced out and Cost for me, so I was hoping the contractor can install what I want for septic vs. what he would choose. Or maybe off-set with putting a fence up and I pay the difference on Septic.
Negotiate everything in writing. Be it a contract amendment, an email that is digitally signed and agreed to. Something that can hold their feet to the fire.
Negotiate everything in writing. Be it a contract amendment, an email that is digitally signed and agreed to. Something that can hold their feet to the fire.
Met with the contractor on Monday and brought with me a list of questions and some good comments here that I made sure I checked.
-I will have a set of blue prints once they are completed
-I upgraded R38 to R49 for only $200 more
-We get to make our master bath customized without having to buy the "luxury package"
-I asked about a well - thankfully.... they estimated $23,000 for a well, and if it goes over I would be out of pocket... not any more - if its over, I don't pay extra.
-We made changes to the plans an had to initial, he initialed, and we both have a copy
I have to meet again once framing is closer to being done and talk electrical. WHAT do I need to worry about for electrical placement, or gauge?
Electrical will have to be up to code which is going to be high quality. One this to do is add as many outlets as you want. I put outlets behind tvs for easy plug in to hide cords, more down low (a 4 pack outlet) for any cords for your entertainment stuff so you don't need a surge protector.
If you want can lights now is the time to do them.
Make sure everything is LED or make sure you can buy the bulbs or cans or lights so they are LED to start.
If you are into any welding or bigger air compressor get a 220 or two of them put in your garage. If you ever want to buy an electric car make sure there is power there for it so you aren't plugging it into a 110.
Think about your furniture, in the living room do you have or want a couch that uses power for outlets USB or power recline. If so get an outlet put in the floor under where it will sit.
Make sure your wife is happy with enough outlets in the kitchen to plug stuff in.
Have them put in ceiling fan ready mounts in all bedrooms and anywhere else you might consider putting a fan.or spend the money now and get the fans you want as they have to put something there so it might as well be them doing the work.
Think about adding in a cat6 LAN, or better. Wireless is great, but you will want lan outlets for your access points, and get some of the regulars of the air, like tv, gaming gear. Think about a server room location. Where will all the switches, routers and backups be? Are you going with a upc? Does your AP require an outlet or can it do poe?
Comment on radon install. Is it included? Can you have them preinstall a pipe up to the attic and maybe out through the roof? Have an outlet in attic for fan. If you can avoid the bs of post construction radon mitigation do so now.
Oh and make sure they have at least a couple wires running from basement or other location that utilities can use (direct tv and Comcast etc) so they are drilling into your house and running wires from outside.
And if you want to run a camera system or speakers or ??? Now is the time to do that. You can even ask if you can just run the wires yourself while it is framed up.
Also, if you do christmas lights, you can get some outlets prewired under the ewes. My friend has thise and it is slick.
holy crap! That's a lot, and I bet will add up.
-220 in the garage is smart, might do that one for sure.
-I'll ask about Radon
- I'll have to ask about Cat6 and Coax cable also
I already planned on a few in the living room, and a bunch in the kitchen. Maybe I will get an outside plug near front door and back door as well. Thanks all for suggestions, really helps.
BladesNBarrels
07-15-2017, 15:58
What is the size of the service panel?
200 amps?
Great-Kazoo
07-15-2017, 16:05
holy crap! That's a lot, and I bet will add up.
-220 in the garage is smart, might do that one for sure.
-I'll ask about Radon
- I'll have to ask about Cat6 and Coax cable also
I already planned on a few in the living room, and a bunch in the kitchen. Maybe I will get an outside plug near front door and back door as well. Thanks all for suggestions, really helps.
While it adds more to the upfront cost. In the long run the headache of labor and fishing wires would have paid off. Whatever you had in your budget, add another $5-10K.
each room on it's own breaker, if not more than one.
more 220 than you think - - 2 for the garage
extra outlets
extra cat 6 runs for security
tall garage if you want to put a car lift in
The "say" it takes about building 3 homes before you sort of know what you want
go funky - get a monolithic dome
If you thinking about an "out building"; add extra service to your place to make sure there is room to grow.
Never ever plant trees or shrubs by the sewer lines.
Big pantry to store food, ammo, etc. extra big return lines for gray water.
safe room for weather events..
each room on it's own breaker, if not more than one. - Smart Idea!
more 220 than you think - - 2 for the garage - I don't even plan on using the one in the garage, but hear stories that "wish I did it."
extra outlets
extra cat 6 runs for security - is cat6 the same line for internet cat5?
tall garage if you want to put a car lift in - Will eventually build a shop for that.
The "say" it takes about building 3 homes before you sort of know what you want
go funky - get a monolithic dome - We already changed up and did a different outside color than anyone in the sub division.
If you thinking about an "out building"; add extra service to your place to make sure there is room to grow. - Good call
Never ever plant trees or shrubs by the sewer lines. - or sprinkler system
Big pantry to store food, ammo, etc. extra big return lines for gray water.
safe room for weather events..
also, would solar or Wind power be worth putting in?
Great-Kazoo
07-18-2017, 08:35
also, would solar or Wind power be worth putting in?
Not unless you're going to live there for the rest of your life. Price a solar panel set up, then compare it to your average utility bill. Based on what we've been looking at it would not start paying back the investment till year 10.
Then decide if you're leasing or buying outright. If you lease and decide to relocate the solar lease, while conveying, causes a few problems when it comes to financing for the buyer.
From personal experience (knowing a solar panel owner) They said when it was just them on the system it broke even. They moved and the new renters have electric vehicles. Their use had put enough strain on the system. It's now losing money. They don't care as they're somonied it's a right off.
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more 220 than you think - - 2 for the garage - I don't even plan on using the one in the garage, but hear stories that "wish I did it."
Anyone who says they don'tplan on using available electrical service is kidding them self. Once you get settleddown, you'll find a use for it
My house was built by an electrician. I have 3-way switches and extra outlets everywhere. Very convenient.
One cool thing he did was put switched outlets under the eves for Christmas lights. Took me a while to figure out what those switches in the closet were for.
Considerations:
Hot-tub power on the deck
Outlet in the closet or corner where the safe will go - for a humidifier, lights, or other electrical needs
Extra outlets in the bathrooms - your female relations will greatly appreciate it
Outlet(s) in the attic
Meeting with electrical soon. As well as ordering floors and bathroom stuff
71745
Think about adding in a cat6 LAN, or better. Wireless is great, but you will want lan outlets for your access points, and get some of the regulars of the air, like tv, gaming gear. Think about a server room location. Where will all the switches, routers and backups be? Are you going with a upc? Does your AP require an outlet or can it do poe?
I will have to see if the electrician can do cat6, and Coax.
Comment on radon install. Is it included? Can you have them preinstall a pipe up to the attic and maybe out through the roof? Have an outlet in attic for fan. If you can avoid the bs of post construction radon mitigation do so now.
No Radon in Cheyenne, nor out near our build
Oh and make sure they have at least a couple wires running from basement or other location that utilities can use (direct tv and Comcast etc) so they are drilling into your house and running wires from outside.
I will see if they can add a couple wires just hanging in the unfinished basement so when I install I could tap into them.
Have some empty conduits with a wire pull rope added from basement to attic and from the basement to the garage.
Cat6 and coax to both sides of each room
Use a pex manifold
OtterbatHellcat
08-22-2017, 22:27
Run extra wire to every room, period....and load up on outlets everywhere throughout the house. And do not wire your porch lights right next to your doors, dammit....that's retarded.
Definitely get a couple of outlets put out front and out back. Have you fgured where you will have outside lighting? Are you going to wire up lights on either side of your driveway? How dark does it get where your new home is going to be? Planning on security lights?
I'm insanely excited for you guys, btw. :)
One thing that just occured to me is where and how are you placing the gun safe? Might think about reinforements in either timber or concrete. Plus how you going to get it down the stairs?
SideShow Bob
08-27-2017, 13:09
71802
71803
Too late now to get a Fat boy or Fat boy Jr into your basement now, should have gotten it down there before the floor joists were in.
That staircase & 180* bend at the landing is too tight.
Too late now to get a Fat boy or Fat boy Jr into your basement now, should have gotten it down there before the floor joists were in.
That staircase & 180* bend at the landing is too tight.
I learned my lesson with my old safe..... 1000lbs is a pain in the ass to move, position or do anything with, so I would go with 2 smaller ones instead. But that wont be for a long while.
2 hour countdown until the visit with electrical
Focus:
outlet above fire place for TV to be mounted - going on the left side of mantle not in the center
220 outlet in garage
outlets out front and out back
extra outlets on island
extra outlets in master bath between double sinks
get a quote for cat6
get coax to every room and a run to basement
make sure every wall gets an outlet in each room
get outlet installed in walk-in closet
get empty conduit from basement to attic
get empty conduit from basement to garage
it's a 200amp panel
anything else I'm overlooking for the electrical walk through?
make sure every wall gets an outlet in each room
this is code required to the best of my knowledge
kidicarus13
09-07-2017, 14:58
1000lbs is a pain in the ass to move, position or do anything with.
That's how the burglars feel too.
Went well today. Thanks again all!
71897
Only a quick snap before the contractor showed up and kicked us out. Liability if we get hurt, schedule a time. Blah blah blah
72192
72193
BladesNBarrels
10-05-2017, 09:06
Only a quick snap before the contractor showed up and kicked us out. Liability if we get hurt, schedule a time. Blah blah blah
Dang, need to check the contractor's level - he got it 90 degrees out of plumb!
[Beer]
For some odd reason I can't post more than 1 picture.
Painted interior and some cabinets are in place. Had a 3 week setback with flooring but should be going in this week. Had a set-back where they put a shower pan in the master bath but was supposed to be full tile - so that is now ripped out and awaiting tile install.
instead of doing an empty conduit from Garage to basement - they installed a 100 amp subpanel in my basement for no charge!!! "standard for them."
most of plumbing was done, heat was turned on and felt great. They are thinking we should be able to get in before Christmas.
thanks again all for the help and insight.
Congrats. Hope you get a chance and write up a conclusion, and maybe post a checklist. Hint, hint.[emoji477]
Congrats. Hope you get a chance and write up a conclusion, and maybe post a checklist. Hint, hint.[emoji477]
I planned on it.
fairrpe86
11-15-2017, 19:18
Who is your builder and what area outside of Cheyenne are you building in? We are looking at moving up there and I have an area, builder and floor plan in mind...but if it is the same builder, I want to PM you a couple of questions.
Builder is Summit View and would HIGHLY suggest them.
If you need a realtor, let me know.
Our address will be 248 Quarter Circle Loop. We are about 12 minutes from Walmart, and about 6 minutes from a Safeway. Feel free to PM me and I'll answer anything I can.
fairrpe86
11-16-2017, 12:16
Same exact builder and area we are looking at actually. I will PM you when I am on a computer and not my phone.
Well it finally was completed and we have moved it! It’s a long process that can be overwhelming at times but for the most part was good. I would recommend o others to build if you can!
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**phones being weird, I'll try uploading more tonight*
Looks nice. Just in time to get a huge Christmas tree.
Great-Kazoo
12-19-2017, 19:59
Looks nice. Just in time to get a huge Christmas tree.
Or propane free deep fryer ;)
fairrpe86
12-19-2017, 22:43
Looks great, really like the darker cabinets and granite combo.
Thanks again all, for the great information and tips
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Well I can't get my phone to upload the back yard pictures, but ended up with about .5 acres fenced for the dogs.
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