Need a hand with some pretty simple woodworking...

[Fentonite]

I want to replace the wooden rub rails that go down each side of my Pinzgauer. These are meant to be sacrificed and replaced as needed, but I thought I'd use something nice, maybe oak. They're a little more than 10' long, which is causing me problems. My tiny old table saw, (in combination with my poor skills), just isn't ideal for ripping and shaping such a long piece of wood. Does anybody have a large table saw that would be more suited to this job? I'd be willing to pay someone to make these for me, or to just let me use their manly saw. thoughts?

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[asmo]

Maybe over-kill, but Tim K does absolutely gorgeous woodwork.

[bside303]

a hand circular saw would be a better fit for a longer cut.

[gnihcraes]

you more than welcome to use my 10 inch craftsman... we should be able to get it done.

[Fentonite]

Maybe over-kill, but Tim K does absolutely gorgeous woodwork.

Not sure if this would even be worth his time...


a hand circular saw would be a better fit for a longer cut.

If the board was wider, I could see that. I need to rip a board to about 2" wide, and again to just over an inch thick. Then I need to miter two edges on more than 10' of essentially a 1"x2" board, with some degree of precision. While I'm sure some folks could do that with a skill saw, I know I can't.

[Fentonite]

you more than welcome to use my 10 inch craftsman... we should be able to get it done.

Thanks Kelly. My saw is a 10", but the table and fence just isn't big enough for me to make accurate cuts. Too much play in the angle due to the length of the board and small surface of fence/table. Just a little wiggle in the board, and the miter cuts really show off the lack of precision. I don't remember, does your saw have a big table/fence?

[68Charger]

Thanks Kelly. My saw is a 10", but the table and fence just isn't big enough for me to make accurate cuts. Too much play in the angle due to the length of the board and small surface of fence/table. Just a little wiggle in the board, and the miter cuts really show off the lack of precision. I don't remember, does your saw have a big table/fence?

What about using a roller/outfeed stand to support the length, or a couple of helpers to support it at the table height?

even a ladder with rungs at the proper height (or propped to the proper height) can be made to work...

[brutal]

You need to build guides to hold the wood against the table and fence with just enough play to allow feed...

A couple straight boards and some clamps might do the trick.

Use a longer straight board against your short fence to extend it as well. The melamine boards work well for that.

Go longer than you need if possible on your cut piece, and you can sacrifice the start/stop ends if they're a little wonky.


[ETA] added (and corrected) melamine. Had guns on the brain when I said melonite. lolz

[gnihcraes]

I think we could get it done with some setup/helpers.

[Fentonite]

Between the advice from 68Charger, brutal, and a PM from gnihcraes, I think I might be able to pull it off. Thanks! I'll update.

[crays]

Have you checked the flooring section of the lumber yards? You may be able to find a transition board of enough length, and possibly already close on some of the dimensions.

Just a thought. I've ripped the "lip" of some carpet to tile oak transitions for some quick window casing. Pre-finished to boot.

[Delfuego]

Maybe over-kill, but Tim K does absolutely gorgeous woodwork.
Not sure if this would even be worth his time...Just buy a custom kitchen from him, maybe he will in throw the extra work :)

[Great-Kazoo]

Not sure if this would even be worth his time...



If the board was wider, I could see that. I need to rip a board to about 2" wide, and again to just over an inch thick. Then I need to miter two edges on more than 10' of essentially a 1"x2" board, with some degree of precision. While I'm sure some folks could do that with a skill saw, I know I can't.


Do the rail in 2 sections, if you're unable to make it in 1 cut. It's definitely a 2 person job.

[BladesNBarrels]

A little off topic, but first time I thought about rub rails on a motor vehicle.
Use them on a boat, but haven't considered using them to rub along the wall getting into the garage.
Cool.

[JohnnyEgo]

If you want to drive up to Windsor, I'd be glad to rip them to width for you.

[To Bear Arms]

You need to build guides to hold the wood against the table and fence with just enough play to allow feed...

A couple straight boards and some clamps might do the trick.

Use a longer straight board against your short fence to extend it as well. The melamine boards work well for that.

Go longer than you need if possible on your cut piece, and you can sacrifice the start/stop ends if they're a little wonky.


[ETA] added (and corrected) melamine. Had guns on the brain when I said melonite. lolz

You can build "feather boards" to help push and keep tension on it while feeding it through the table saw.

[JohnnyEgo]

You really only need the fence to guide the board past the blade. After that, it doesn't do much for you. Feather boards are cheap and great for keeping the board tight up against the fence. Your two issues are going to be material support and the ability of your saw to do the work of ripping a long piece. The direct drive saws such as the small Craftsmans and Dewalts can bog down under a long cut at 2" or more in height, and that is a very dangerous condition, particularly if the blade binds because the cut starts closing at the back of the blade. You can get a little more oomph out of your saw by using a thin-kerf ripping blade and feeding at a slow but consistent rate. Also helps if you have a riving knife or your blade guard in place to prevent the bind.

By way of alternative, I run a 3HP cabinet saw, which has plenty of oomph. I still use a thin kerf ripping blade, because I don't have until next Tuesday to rip a 2x4, and I don't intend to trash out my nice blade doing it. As long as you have a very stable saw, a rip blade, and good material support, you should be able to rip it just fine, albeit slowly. Or you could drive up here one evening or weekend, and I could do them on mine. I rip up 2x4 stock all the time.

http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2017Projects/vinbed/vinbed25.JPG
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2017Projects/vinbed/vinbed28.JPG

[Fentonite]

http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2017Projects/vinbed/vinbed25.JPG
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2017Projects/vinbed/vinbed28.JPG

Wow, nice gear. I may be giving you a shout if I can't figure it out. [Awesom]

[newracer]

I'f I were you I'd look to see if I could fine some HDPE to make them out of.


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[Fentonite]

I'f I were you I'd look to see if I could fine some HDPE to make them out of.


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I had to google HDPE. That would be a very practical choice. Probably smarter than even the metal tube that some guys are fab'ing. For some reason, I've got it in my head to use a nice stain on wood, even though they'll just be going on a mis-matched, spray-painted beast. Beauty is in the eye, I guess.

[pickenup]

JohnnyEgo, WOW, my table saw has never looked as clean as yours does. Nice rig.

[JohnnyEgo]

Thanks. I hit the top with a light coat of Johnson's paste wax before I put it up. Helps prevent rust and keep things slick running through the saw. I also made a hard cover to mitigate the effects of my wife and kids using it as a table when I am not around.
http://www.johnnyego.com/wood/sawstop/sawtop02.JPG

[newracer]

I had to google HDPE. That would be a very practical choice. Probably smarter than even the metal tube that some guys are fab'ing. For some reason, I've got it in my head to use a nice stain on wood, even though they'll just be going on a mis-matched, spray-painted beast. Beauty is in the eye, I guess.

I have it on the aluminum sliders on my Jeep.

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[Tim K]

No, no, no. Don't make them yourself. We have a custom molding supplier here in the Springs that would cut that stuff quickly and easily. Assuming they can do it with stock tooling on their molder (likely), there's a $35 set up charge and then probably a couple bucks a foot. They can do tens or twelves or whatever you want. I'd have them run extras and then just set them aside till you need them.

White oak will fare better outdoors than common red oak. The pores are smaller so it doesn't absorb moisture as quickly.

PM me with the profile if you want me to look at it. The molding house is wholesale only or I'd just send you to them directly.

[Fentonite]

No, no, no. Don't make them yourself. We have a custom molding supplier here in the Springs that would cut that stuff quickly and easily. Assuming they can do it with stock tooling on their molder (likely), there's a $35 set up charge and then probably a couple bucks a foot. They can do tens or twelves or whatever you want. I'd have them run extras and then just set them aside till you need them.

White oak will fare better outdoors than common red oak. The pores are smaller so it doesn't absorb moisture as quickly.

PM me with the profile if you want me to look at it. The molding house is wholesale only or I'd just send you to them directly.

Well there's the answer! Thanks! PM coming.

[Fentonite]

Tim's custom mill guy shaped some white oak (Thanks Tim!). Some drilling, sanding, staining and oiling, and the rails are replaced. I'm happy with them, but now I really gotta finish painting the truck. 71519

[gnihcraes]

Looks great!

[ray1970]

Do they even have oak trees where that thing comes from?

[Fentonite]

Do they even have oak trees where that thing comes from?

You haven't heard of "The Austrian Oak"?71520