pole barn/steel building/shop

[fly boy]

We are building a house, but within a year I would like to build a garage for tinkering on vehicles, fixing furniture, etc. There are so many options and prices anywhere from $1,000 to 100,000.

Are there any pro/con's I should consider?

I know I will need electric
Will need a flooring that can hold a vehicle
doesn't have to be insulated, but would need to be weather proof for storage of household items.

Can you post pictures of your build if you did it?

[kwando]

I am going to the process of hiring someone to build a 40'x60' pole barn on my property now. I've contacted Cleary and Steel Structures of America, and have appointment next week to get quotes. Neither places will do the electrical, and you have to do the leveling/excavating yourself. Standard concrete floor is 4-5" fibermesh. Some places will do rebar concrete. I am new at this as well, and i'm also learning.

[EvilRhino]

I'm putting up a metal building right now. Down to trim. 40x60x16 and I've put in every bolt and screw myself.

My neighbor just put up a similar pole barn, dirt floor.

Pros/cons as I see them;
I had to have a foundation engineered for about $500. Concrete cost more than the building, about $21k. He can pour a slab whenever he wants and it doesn't have the deep walls or footers.

Mine is clear span. 16' at the side and almost 20' in the center to the roof sheeting. He had trusses, so a flat ceiling.

This part could be all in the shopping, but I paid about $15.7k for my engineered building with big ass supports and delivery. $16.4k with tax IIRC. He paid about $20k for his, just the wood and metal.

On the exterior, they look almost exactly the same.

ETA neither of us have done any utilities including electric yet.

[Great-Kazoo]

Pour the slab AFTER the building is up & inspected. Do Not put the frame on the slab. Depending on county assessment it will determine how you're taxed. In Weld cty my pole barn is considered a Utility Shed, costing under $80 per yr. The foundation should reflect the use you'll have for it. Want to put a 4 post auto lift 6" slab. Anything else and 4" will do it, include an apron in your expense.

Wire it for 220, get a bigger panel then you think you'll need. How many windows? You might consider putting a few of these on the roof for indirect light, wish i would have done a few. The panels we have (suntuf) over our patio have held up to 1 tornado, 3 hail storms and who knows how may 50+ mph wind & rain storms.
http://www.palramamericas.com/Products/corrugated-sheets/SUNTUF/



Nothing is weatherproof, one good wind storm coupled with solid rain will find any weak link. Add insulation in to the build price, being in wyo, you'll wish you did it before rather then later.

but would need to be weather proof for storage of household items.

Based on the last sentence. Build it bigger than you're thinking of now. That whole oh honey i want to put a few items in the garage turns out to having everything but your stuff in there.
OR build with 14' sidewalls so you have loft space for items to be stored, without them needing to be accessed on a weekly basis. A 14' sidewall will give you room for that 4 post bendpack lift you know you want.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/

[TheGrey]

The number of windows, and the size would be of interest to me. The height of the walls as well- if you'll be using it for a number of things, do you want to make it two stories, or at least a loft for holiday decorations, etc?

I second getting a bigger panel than you think you need. Do you want a deepwell or garage sink there, for easy clean-up?

I'd certainly insulate. From what I understand of Wyoming, there is a great deal of wind. I'd do whatever was needed to make it sturdy against the elements that are particular to your section of the state. You may even find yourself wanting to plug in an electric heater in the winter.

Will it be a stand-alone building?

[fly boy]

14' walls for a loft sounds like a damn good plan
It will be stand alone
Didn't plan on putting plumbing in, it will be closer to house and no real need for it
I'll have to look up tax info, the slab after is interesting information
I was thinking a wood burning stove for heat... freebie (ish)


Are there more benefits of wood vs steel of vice versa?

[Bailey Guns]

Insulation is cheap relative to other costs. Do it. Especially in WY, and especially if you're going to want to be working in it in the winter. Without it your heat is going to go right thru the ridge.

Electrical. I only had a 100 amp service installed. I wish I'd gone with at least 200 amp. I haven't outgrown it...yet...but I can see where it could easily happen.

I was told by the concrete guys that a lift only requires reinforced "pads". You don't have to spend the money for 6" of concrete throughout the shop. But it's something you have to plan for when the concrete is poured. I have no idea how it works. I had no need for a lift so I didn't explore it further.

I added a 22x24 carport extension to the front of my pole building. Only added about $1200 to the cost and it's one of the handiest features of my shop. It provides protection for my vehicles and can easily (and at a relatively inexpensive price) be enclosed later should I choose to do that and it would increase the size of my shop by about 60%.

[Great-Kazoo]

14' walls for a loft sounds like a damn good plan
It will be stand alone it will be closer to house and no real need for it
Didn't plan on putting plumbing in, It's the one thing we didn't do and should have. The $$ to drop a line from your house or well is cheaper before you start, then after you finish. Trust me ;) having a wash station AND shitter real close, versus running to the house during a Wyo snow storm. You will be glad you had one.

I'll have to look up tax info, the slab after is interesting information. If it sits on the slab, it's considered a permanent structure. Most if not all non commercial metal buildings have a slab poured after the structure is up.

I was thinking a wood burning stove for heat... freebie (ish) Now you have to factor in adequate ventilation, insulation (to code) for the stove. Supply of wood for X years. Fire proof (to code for ins) storage for any combustibles, since the stove is considered an open flame.
You don't plan on insulation? Kiss any form of heating goodbye


Are there more benefits of wood vs steel of vice versa? Forget wood. Wood frame is considered another permanent dwelling as it's going to be on (see above) slab / foundation. There's (IMO) more hassle code ,tax and building wise to wood frame than what's called a pole barn / steel building. YMMV

[Wulf202]

If you put in plumbing make sure it's set up to winterize easily. A washout sink is real handy.

Also consider running some copper pipe for air from a shop compressor to various places you'd use it instead of dragging a hose.

In floor radiant heat is the best for shops but must be planned from the beginning

[fly boy]

ok.

Steel
14' Walls
Insulated
electrical
4" pad of concrete after build- don't plan on a lift, I'm not that mechanical... just need room for basic oil changes, plugs, etc.
Still going back and forth on plumbing... would be cheaper/easier to plug into well/septic before it's up, and could add bathroom later

[Ah Pook]

Mine had a snow load of 56" and wind to 120mph. i did a pole structure to keep the cost/taxes down. We added 2'x12's at the base of the walls for the concrete floor that was poured after the building was finished. I did fibercrete and the floor did crack in some areas.

Not sure about WY but some counties don't allow wood stoves in garages. Insurance cos are leery also. Radiant floor heat is nice but I don't know the cost. Water is nice to have, even if it's a spigot, with a util sink, that drains out to the ground. Get one of those all weather spigots that shuts the water off below grade. Go Pro Panel. The quality is better. Add more outlets than you think you will ever need. I got the cheap 11'x16' garage door and hated every minute of it. Get a sturdy door that actually seals. I got a 3'-4' apron and wished I'd gone for at least 10'. I didn't insulate (aluminum bubble wrap was it) and wished I had. Adding walls (thin plywood) would be something I'd also do. Shelving? Lighting?

[Great-Kazoo]

Throw in some ceiling fans while you're at it.

[MED]

I built my outbuilding 10 years ago. I went with a wood building that matched my house including the same 8/12 roof with a loft. As nice as mine looks, I would definitely go with a steel pole barn if I did it again; I could have done a larger building for less money. Depending on where you live, the dirt work can be really expensive. My neighbor who is currently building his pole barn, trucked in 600 tons of roadbase for his build site; I could look at the sign next time I'm out and edit my post with the company name. His pole barn install came with the insulation. One thing I regret is not adding the plumbing at the time of the build so I would recommend getting it done even if you don't think you will need it. As far as the wood stove goes, my agent explained it to me like this. If your building is a detached garage and the only garage for the house, then a wood stove is a definite no. If the building is an outbuilding and not the primary garage, then a stove is possible (fuel storage is the biggest issue). County regs I'm sure will impact that as well. We have a lot of people with wood stoves in their outbuildings up here so it is done.

[fly boy]

I am going to the process of hiring someone to build a 40'x60' pole barn on my property now. I've contacted Cleary and Steel Structures of America, and have appointment next week to get quotes. Neither places will do the electrical, and you have to do the leveling/excavating yourself. Standard concrete floor is 4-5" fibermesh. Some places will do rebar concrete. I am new at this as well, and i'm also learning.

How did it turn out?



I'm putting up a metal building right now. Down to trim. 40x60x16 and I've put in every bolt and screw myself.

My neighbor just put up a similar pole barn, dirt floor.

Pros/cons as I see them;
I had to have a foundation engineered for about $500. Concrete cost more than the building, about $21k. He can pour a slab whenever he wants and it doesn't have the deep walls or footers.

Mine is clear span. 16' at the side and almost 20' in the center to the roof sheeting. He had trusses, so a flat ceiling.

This part could be all in the shopping, but I paid about $15.7k for my engineered building with big ass supports and delivery. $16.4k with tax IIRC. He paid about $20k for his, just the wood and metal.

On the exterior, they look almost exactly the same.

ETA neither of us have done any utilities including electric yet.



What needs to be done pre-build if I plan on a dirt floor, concrete a few years later?

examples:

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/the-project-store/residential-post-frame-projects/36w-x-54l-x-12h-agricultural-post-frame-building/p-1444422819735-c-9893.htm?tid=-7566207110680694867&ipos=24

https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/the-project-store/residential-post-frame-projects/36w-x-54l-x-12h-post-frame-building/p-1444422549618-c-9893.htm?tid=-6509449414771895392&ipos=68

[rondog]

My biggest pipedream.....

[Irving]

Don't cheap out on construction, and use hurricane straps, lest the wind eat your lunch.

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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cb01dkHgUUkKxG10RnUI-jV0-5Y2jr-s0syiQo3g_NYAh7SI_Y5lQlIbXhvzSmgmafWA2pOgTJapxxpKv VWi3GNgiOwNWm2snNnEmII3I_KTIpsuauG7NGPcFbp01Cx4yWi 8YtU00t6KhZf-yhwTw-bU631-FUu0Qt5Ji8L5HgDnWbzRjGeLozTQ6zAMAPBM_scCpo7ttnAW8n cShxA46_dQvzpfWpb_pZv5c2vBgY9X5MrXL-xdkJfuvyO1ANireq1TZMXHscD-FMNrGucCmUbPw_2hWFAEbZt4MTN67DjHwW9xgetuv3fJTFuZqJ kdrz-ow74DdjqoW5MeKVCHBB8hWAKv1JOUinaGOA-dniCvcKbrXiTZ9WT3KUGerIpvvUAW2i1x_S9N4Cmo14lUzlh-S2V_4NOopQp_hTaceS46IZ7A3JVxXPhuMKYrWKV9M-_QvcsUqcVK-LjBaNdJxCW6RSDAxWDDCy4TkDjJoPgD0MpawqHRpMVjgn1UD5R 6J6I3vwUPAlJyIxlXOjl7D96Mmt1IVff4JSVLAQ1uoUhwnkMgs ENftjhVLB8uP2FcHIgduc_sZttkzpkXVImUMaL5kbV6U2r-RWokh5h1AcH4nBJdGeGtKcOQ17R16GlayR9b7iaXiHSDhhQJ_F CNFfT5PScO-XyG8g=w1632-h918-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a7uCXiqCxmwND5epvMGxxLgL4_ZXQhEWYDZepatQFumN1XDCHa TXaBNGQQEYLoQQw3cAUfwnMchRT31d0FnH-hBmVB7u8gA7iYnrG7-hfayhiy7PANOGsnZbHYR5kL4L2DDrj9Gy_4SsaIrHeV0qlolli 5uCPsrc_DcEv6IigS9VIrdGeOY6S_AquSRlApMiwbDiK3R1xu2 K5VMnx15-j-Vytwjz6U1hIxS9kAPrBtfKNx_IIEXGaFG2fLsDOVNlYHvxZ5Mm 1zx8LZAarJQQ50BbEqjxjh8bDnEaxyevLeV-EJtGtWuFD-Y8PT1OP30hHmiaABHwgm1FgOZ65uczlqJTMmacTleu5CXotsJW pqlxG56f66jh8J91rGlfJEpgPWeNlY6S6qzKhCE6uwCZOZpqSp 52tVxnpB-5rsgslqJK8L8S9_mPC4FDnVcWFZBnDySCfM-KLKRY_LvsXdo4JouRE0o4XJUBnntURzvrfykVy6SXcu5N5vWxd rQ8jw4Wup5OvZK-B0MQmMYnKzxhzpjJmGHfcM_BuYmxIm0Yof3Gbpggz6bFSZB_ED pCYqaDHzhaTmRSwDsVDUC5kso-jfq6FboHBfVaFVSGuz7spia-rE3r1CqjrOy_-nQG18QwrNi2dCYoltLlmo9c7u80sAztQw4Ngk5rXQ=w1632-h918-no

[bczandm]

This might help:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

[fly boy]

damn,

sorry to see that Irving

[Irving]

Lol, it's not mine. Something I saw at work.