Perma Blue comments

[bczandm]

I started using Perma Blue years ago, I am continually impressed at how well it works. I've used it to touch up small parts on all sorts of modern and vintage guns. Recently I bought a lever action rifle with a blued site that was showing signs of surface rust. I cleaned the rust off, spent about 10 minutes with a Q Tip applying Perma Blue and now the thing looks like new. I've used it on many other parts as well, including AR trigger parts.

If you dont have some in the gun cleaning kit I'd suggest getting some. I think you will be impressed at how well it works and how many applications you will have for it.

Bob

[Great-Kazoo]

I like the over all results of 44/40 myself. The permablue has been inconsistent the last 2 containers.

[beast556]

If you are happy with permablue try a bottle of 44/40 it works ten times better, still has the shitty smell thoe.

[bczandm]

I am not familiar with it, I'll have to find some some this weekend and give it a try. Any thoughts on who would have some in town?

[beast556]

Jensens in loveland is where I got myine. I have not been in there in a long time so Im not sure if they still stock it. It is a brownells product.

[Great-Kazoo]

I am not familiar with it, I'll have to find some some this weekend and give it a try. Any thoughts on who would have some in town?

This is what you're looking for, if you call around the metro area. My advice, based on years of using it. After you get the desired bluing (following instructions) Rinse with water, wipe dry then oil.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/formula-44-40-reg-instant-gun-blue-prod1112.aspx


There's also a creme. Which as you can see both are Brownells products

https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Gun-Blue-Creme-Formula/dp/B01JUZCIHI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506747339&sr=8-4&keywords=44%2F40+gun+blue

[bczandm]

Thanks, I'll try to pick some up this weekend if I can find it in the metro area.

[SAnd]

[QUOTE=Great-Kazoo;2093811]This is what you're looking for, if you call around the metro area. My advice, based on years of using it. After you get the desired bluing (following instructions) Rinse with water, wipe dry then oil.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/formula-44-40-reg-instant-gun-blue-prod1112.aspx

You must rinse with water. Oil will not neutralize it. It can keep working and eventually turn it brown. Even if you oil it. This applies to most cold blues.

[Great-Kazoo]

[QUOTE=Great-Kazoo;2093811]This is what you're looking for, if you call around the metro area. My advice, based on years of using it. After you get the desired bluing (following instructions) Rinse with water, wipe dry then oil.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/formula-44-40-reg-instant-gun-blue-prod1112.aspx

You must rinse with water. Oil will not neutralize it. It can keep working and eventually turn it brown. Even if you oil it. This applies to most cold blues.

Which is what i posted. Then apply oil. I don't like or rely on a rinse to protect my just cold blued finish. The water to remove any residue. The oil to treat the surface after dried. As one would any firearm that was just cleaned.

[SAnd]

[QUOTE=SAnd;2093827]

Which is what i posted. Then apply oil. I don't like or rely on a rinse to protect my just cold blued finish. The water to remove any residue. The oil to treat the surface after dried. As one would any firearm that was just cleaned.

I just meant to reinforce what you said. I had to redo several parts that turned brown after a few months because I didn't neutralize the bluing with water. I just used oil only instead of making the trip into the house where the water is.

Sorry if it come out like I was contradicting you. I was just trying to warn people not to skip the water step.

[Great-Kazoo]

[QUOTE=Great-Kazoo;2093880]

I just meant to reinforce what you said. I had to redo several parts that turned brown after a few months because I didn't neutralize the bluing with water. I just used oil only instead of making the trip into the house where the water is.

Sorry if it come out like I was contradicting you. I was just trying to warn people not to skip the water step.

No problem. The rinsing is the make or break for this process.

[BPTactical]

I like the Birchwood Casey paste blue myself. Seems to be more durable than the liquid types and give a good, dark blue.
Works especially well if you slightly warm the surface you are bluing.

[osok-308]

Hey guys, I know that this thread is a few months old, but I figured I'd ask since I'm looking at re-bluing a .22lr rifle (marlin model 80) that I received from a family member who passed away. It's a little worse-for-wear and I'd like to restore it a bit. Is there a problem with using this stuff on large portions of a rifle? Like the picture below?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/0185c1ded72ea71648e109a3b9652366.jpg

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