Precision Rifle - Getting started

[leatherneck448]

Hey fellas, I’m finally at the point where I can start reloading for my bolt gun, and wanted to check up with everyone here to make sure I wasn’t going to do something stupid before I dropped cash on anything.

Ive been planning on buying a Forster Co-Ax, and some combination of Forster or Redding micrometer dies, along with other basic stuff like a tumbler, calipers, etc. I kinda ballparked myself at like 1200 bucks for a turnkey setup. Is that a good estimate or not enough?

What are some things that you guys would recommend, or things you can’t live without on the bench? Obviously a comprehensive list of stuff would be awesome but anything is appreciated.

Keep in mind I’m only trying to load for a single gun/caliber, so speed doesn’t really matter to me as long as whatever I’m using consistently turns out a quality product.

On to the gun part, the rifle I’m feeding is a .308, 26” barrel with 1:11.25” twist. The only thing I’ve ever shot out of the gun has been FGMM 175’s, so I’ve got brass handled for the near future. Do you think 175 SMK’s would be a good thing to stick with or are there better bullet options out there for .30 cal these days? Do you think there would be a solid starting bullet/powder combo to start with?

Thanks,
Kenny

[MarkCO]

I think you can get in for a bit less and still be good for quality. Get a reloading manual and read it before you invest. I don't use a lot of Lee Products, but the Lee Manual is a good basic reference that combines a lot of recipes and tells you how to evaluate them.

Tumbler, corn cob with Lucas Oil metal polish is a great place to start and Franklin Arsenal makes a decent one for like $50. I love the Franklin Arsenal Platinum case prep center. You can spend a lot more to get less, but it is a really good place to start that will keep your brass prep time working instead of ruining cases.

If you are on FB, check out 76Highboy Reloading Community, if not, check out his YouTube channel. He is a great resource.

[Tim K]

You'll want comparators for bullets and cases. You'll probably also want some way to throw and weigh powder. RCBS Chargemaster is a popular and decent enough choice.

[bobbyfairbanks]

Your twist rate is perfect for 175. I would stick with that weight. Lots of good bullets to choose from. TMK, ELDX, VLD, Scenars to mention a few. Varget is a great go to powder for 308 and is a extreme powder so very temp stable. Buy your powder in 8lb jugs primers by the case same with bullets. Lots of these components can be different and load development isn’t as much fun as smacking Steel at distance.

As far as gear is concerned buy once cry once. Don’t skimp on dies. Bullet runout is effected by your brass and how you treat it. Put your brass through quality dies like Redding or Whidden. Same goes for your press. If your gonna do single stage a forester COAX is amazing. Nothing says you can’t load Precision ammo on a 550.

[bobbyfairbanks]

Get bushing sizing dies.

You need a way to trim your brass. I use a forester when trimming by hand and like it a lot. Zombie Steve uses a Lyman and he has been happy with it.

[C Ward]

Go buy and read Zedikers book , https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Handloading-Competition-Making-Target-Bigger/dp/096269259X&ved=2ahUKEwi4447H_5nZAhUHXa0KHb8-B1oQFjAAegQIERAB&usg=AOvVaw2KGWrklw4Q-ZzjtOKYJWFB , before buying anything .

Tons of good information in there and just because he shoots high-power doesn't me it isn't applicable .

[KS63]

Forster dies are also in the same league as Redding at a lower price point. Their micrometer seating dies are fantastic. Brass prep is key.

[KS63]

Also forgot to add that if you’re serious about your reloads, a chronograph is a must! I personally use a Magnetospeed and it works quite well.

[Hoser]

Good choice on the Co-Ax.

As noted above, Forster and Redding bushing dies are the way to go.

I load 99% of my precision ammo on a tweaked Dillon 550, but my Co-Ax still gets some love. I put it on a Dillon strong mount just to raise it up a little bit because I stand when I reload.

https://i.imgur.com/uoUIPaD.jpg

[XC700116]

Again, spend the extra on the Forster, it's worth it.

I run Redding Sizing dies (bushing dies) and Forster Micrometer Seaters for pretty much everything I load as far as precision rifle stuff. That said, for a single cartridge and not getting too crazy OCD about it, I'd just get a set of Forster dies (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010946147/forster-bench-rest-full-length-sizer-die) with the Micrometer seater. (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/395095/forster-ultra-micrometer-seater-die)

Tumbler, Chargemaster, a calipers and both bullet (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-basic-set-with-6-inserts) and case (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/479835/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set) comparitors should get you started, might want to get a OAL tool (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/479835/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set) and modified case (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/459683/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-modified-case-308-winchester) as well. (click hyperlinks for examples)


Your rifle obviously likes the 175 SMK's by the way you shot at Raton last weekend so I'd start there with Varget and Fed primers if you can find them if not CCI200's will work fine.

[leatherneck448]

Thanks for all the replies, the hyperlinks were much appreciated too.

I’m glad someone mentioned comparators as well, I wouldn’t have put those on my list. What combo of dies do you use? Not just brand, but purpose of each. I’ve got a basic understanding of what they do, but that seems to be another “voodoo” subject among the crowd. Would a full length sizer and micrometer seater be enough? Do you guys have a separate die to decap with?

Thanks,
Kenny

[MarkCO]

I use a Lee universal decapping die, then tumble. I have several die brands in the middle, but all of the precision rounds I use a Forster micrometer seating die. Most I use a full length sizing die.

[XC700116]

A FL sizing die and a good seating die are all you NEED, that said I normally decap before tumbling to somewhat clean the primer pockets at the same time as the rest of the brass. However it's not really needed. For that I use a LEE universal decap (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die) die but am looking at upgrading that to the Mighty Armory (https://mightyarmory.com/) unit as I've been hearing really good things about durability and supposedly works a little better in a Dillon.

I personally like Bushing FL size dies so I can control neck tension. But you may want to learn the craft a bit before going that route. Especially with 308, it's a very non-temperamental cartridge to begin with, typically pretty easy to get really good accuracy out of it and quite frankly, you can blow a lot of money chasing different ideas and learning what does and doesn't work well for you.

[leatherneck448]

Fair enough. For load dev. would it be a good idea to buy in small increments first? (100 bullets, 1lb powder, etc)

That seems like the most logical route. Are different lots of components different enough to the point of being accurate for one and inaccurate for the next in the same rifle? Might be an irrational thought but it’d suck to work up something good and have it backfire when I tried to purchase the same stuff in bulk.

Thanks,
Kenny

[bobbyfairbanks]

Varget will work just buy a 8lb of it

[Tim K]

Varget will work just buy a 8lb of it

Yep, do this. Better yet, buy two jugs of the same lot number. Varget is a "go-to" powder for .308. Save yourself some brain damage as a beginner and run Varget and your SMKs. Then the only variables are charge weight and seating depth.

[Irving]

100 bullets ought to be enough to let you test 10 different weights of powder charge. 20 if you think you can determine with only 5 round groups.

[XC700116]

No you won't see that much variation in Lots, you may have to tweak powder charge a touch, from one lot to the next to produce the same velocities, but by and large that's about it.

As for Powder just ask Hoser, for 308, load Varget if you can find it, if you can't find it, find someone to steal it from hahahaha. It is flat out the go to powder for 308, buy a bunch with confidence that way if things go sideways again, you are still sitting pretty.

Bullets, if you want to test a few then yes, I'd buy by the 100 and test them find what flys best and has the best downrange numbers and then buy enough to last the rest of the life of the barrel along with enough Varget and Primers, that way you won't have to tweak your load due to the lot consistency thing.

As for what you should test, that's up to you, but I'll give you some suggestions. From what I've seen and been around 308's perform best with either 175's and heavier, or 155's If your barrel is long and fast enough to get them up to right about 2900 fps, if not then you might as well just slow roll the 175's and get the big BC number (or even 185 Juggernauts) Like I said before, your rifle shoots damn good with the FGGM 175 so I'd be tempted to try and just replicate that load and maybe tweak it a touch to get the most out of it (Same bullet at close to or the same velocity).

You've got brass covered for now and depending on how much of it you have you should be fine, if you start losing it or it starts getting beat up. Start buying Lapua brass to replace it with. It's worth the extra $$

Primers, IF you can find them I'd go with Federal Large Rifle Match, but good luck with that, it's typically not easy to find them. If not just go to CCI 200's and call it a day.

[Delfuego]

Why buy 8lbs, when you can buy 16?

I have an almost full box of 175's if you want it. I have some 308 dies you can have to play with too.

[bobbyfairbanks]

I load 99% of my precision ammo on a tweaked Dillon 550



What are you tweaking on your 550. Floating toolheads and ?