primers????

[Daniel_187]

am a newbie reloader. I will admit I am a slow learner. But I am trying to reload .308 .223 9mm .38 spl / .357 mag and I don't know what kind of primers to get. I have a few CCI large rifle primers, but some how I got a few magnum large rifle primers, can I use these too for .308? And what sizes's do I need for the other calibers I am loading?

Thanks

[smchop]

I'm sure someone here can point you in the right direction on using large magnum rifle primers. I have no experience on those. But for .223 you need small rifle primers, 9mm & 38 you need small pistol primers. And 357 you need small pistol magnum primers. I believe very few rifles would require a large magnum rifle primer. Hope that helps and as I said maybe even the more experience reloaders will chime in on use.

[gnihcraes]

you can use the small pistol primers in 357 magnum, unless loading "HOT" loads and the loading manuals indicate Magnum primers... otherwise normal light loads are good with the small pistol...

[OgenRwot]

Yep, .223 takes small rifle, if you drop a grain you can use magnums. I had to resort to that back when primers were REAL thin.

[Hannu]

It depends what kind of combination you gonna use in .308... Generally, drop powder charge 0,5-1 grains when moving from regular to magnum primers.
Some magnum primers are pretty thick for regular .308 brass, make sure your primers will go deep enough.
If you use progressive propellant (like N110 or H110) in .357 Magnum use good quality (like Federal 205) small rifle primers to get uniform ignition and barrel time.

And you can always visit or call me, if you are wondering reloading issues.

[Daniel_187]

Thanks guys.

[w748]

You may also have to use mag primers in the rifle loads if you use ball powders. With 335 or 748 my extreme spreads with mag primers are about 1/2 that of std primer loads. Same in .223 and .308. Unfortunatly you'll just have to try to find out.

[Daniel_187]

Ok I just did not want something to blow up in my face.

[MuzzleFlash]

Daniel_187:

The only "blow up" scenarios I've heard of are use of magnum rifle primers with low powder density loads (or accidental undercharges of a handload). The theory is that the hotter flame does a better job of ignition across the large surface area of the thin layer of powder. The theory goes on to claim this is especially so with stick propellants common in rifle loadings. The result is deflagration rates that approach detonation or perhaps even become detonation. Supposedly magnum primers increase the chances of this but it can happen with regular primers too.

The whole concept of propellant detonation remains controversial and there are some professed experts that claim it isn't possible. The trouble is you really can't prove what was in the case after the fact. I have a friend that's a true believer after his AR was blown up with factory ammo from a well known company out of the Czech Republic.

The type (and brand) of primer will be specified in the reloading data. When I started reloading, I got the RCBS Rock Chucker press kit with the Speer reloading book and all the accessories. The Speer book was 30% reloading education and 70% data sheets. I learned a lot from that book.

I recommend you acquire a good foundational knowledge of reloading from a Hornady, Nosler, Speer or similar reputable reloading book. Then you can round out reloading data for the particular calibers you wish to reload from various alternate sources. Most powder and bullet manufacturers have it online now. I like the caliber specific "Loadbooks" you can get at Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro or online at Midway USA. That way I'm not tied down to a particular bullet or powder vendor.

Here's an example: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=360676

[oLa]

I concur with the above... I stronly recommend getting one or two good reloading manuals. I continually hear good things about Speer's, Lee's, and Lyman's (I own two of those).

I recently started reloading myself at the beginning of this year and have been having good results (when I can get the components which is the biggest struggle right now).

Bottom line :
223/5.56 - Small Rifle or Small Rifle Benchrest
9mm/38spc - Small Pistol
357mag - Small Pistol Magnum

I have used Small Pistol Magnum primers in 9mm - however that comes with a whole new set of things to deal with. First, I like using Bullseye powder (very fast) which gives me excellent results, however when going to Magnum primers, I did not feel good using that so I went and got a slower powder and then started just under starting loads and worked up to a load that seemed to perform OK.

[Daniel_187]

Ok, I just felt like a fool for not understaning this, it seem like everyone knows what they are doing. And am at the store straching my head with a dumb look on my face. I did pick up the hornady book a few years ago it did help out a lot with amounts of powder and bullet weight, but they were calling the primers by #'s and I'd go to SW I would only see Large rifle, small pistol ect, I did not see the #'s they were talking about. Thanks for helping me out guys

[oLa]

Daniel

The numbers vary by mfg (other than for shotguns) - some are kinda stardard but others vary - it all depends on the brand. Example:

Remington 1 1/2 = Small Pistol
Rem 2 1/2 = Large Pistol
Rem 5 1/2 = Small Pistol Magnum (note - the box does not say magnum)
Rem 6 1/2 = Small Rifle
Rem 7 1/2 = Small Rifle Benchrest

Some other mfg's use different number schemes.

If you like, PM me and I can advise (I also have some primers I am willing to sell) in some additional detail if you have any specifics. With that said, if you think the info might be valuable to others, lets have the conversation on the forums to help the community.

Last point - dont feel like a fool - everyone has to start somewhere and it is much better to research and ask questions rather than to make a mistake.

Ryan

[MuzzleFlash]

Ask and you shall receive....

http://www.handloads.com/misc/primers.asp

The NATO primers ae less sensitive and therefore less likely to slam-fire.

Note that these cross-references are approximate. If a recipe calls for a WSP and all you have is a CCI 500, then it's not smart to just substitute it in a full power load. Your Hornady book should cover this.

Lee's reloading manual states that Federal primers are not recommended or warranted in it's vibratory tube loader because the formulation Federal uses is too sensitive. I have heard that Federal walks its own path in terms of the composition and design of their primers, but am certainly not experienced with them enough to offer an opinion on if it is true and if it really matters.

[MuzzleFlash]

Oh, and don't leave powder in the powder dispenser for too long. I screwed up and left some Bullseye in my Hornady L-n-L Ap dispenser for a few weeks. The solvents are hell on the plastic.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/luv2ski80007/GunFun/misc/PowderDispenserTube.jpg

[Zman]

Ouch!

[oLa]

WOW... nasty. I love BE for 9, 40, and 45 when using std primers - never had a problem yet with it & my dispenser (though I am definately going to be a lot more careful in future)

Thanks for the heads up

[Hellboy]

I'm looking to start loading rifle now, i've been reloading pistol now for a couple of years and still don't know anything. After reading a few things about "slam firing" it has me concerned about which primer to use. The CCI #41's seem like a good choice but I can't find them locally. What would you guys recommend that you have had good results with and found around town?

[scratchy]

Powder Valley has CCI #41 in stock for $29/1000. They charge $20 or $22 for hazmat fee so I'd get enough hazmat stuff to spread the cost around. I have been very happy with their service.