Suppressor Lube options

[Little Dutch]

I've been doing some reading and see that some folks are enamored with Frog Luge Paste for suppressors. From what I read, they are mostly talking about using FL Paste for cleanup, but some did specifically mention using it to keep the suppressor parts from welding together and easing disassembly.

I've always used anti-seize to help keep my suppressors from sealing themselves up and to potentially aid in cleanup. Anti-seize works reasonably well, but it could definitely be better. Anti-seize gets everywhere, in fact I probably got some on me just mentioning it, so I would not be opposed to trying a less-messy alternative.

Any personal experience here? Is frog lube paste excellent for use in suppressors? Is it worth the markedly high price?

[Ianski]

I've been using CLP and just wipe down my QD brake/flash hiders with it whenever i take them on/off and haven't had too many issues. If I leave the can on for an extended amount of shooting and don't remove it before storing I can still get sealing issues occasionally. I've thought about switching to an anti-seize type lube, but casing/uncasing the rifles I'm worried would just get it everywhere (like you said) and would require frequent reapplication and subsequent further caking of anti-seize in my gun sheaths/cases haha! I am also interested in finding out more about other peoples experiences/recommendations. Good post Little Dutch!

[CS1983]

I have a tub of frog lube I've never opened, since it was gifted to me and I never cared to try it.

Where are you in the Springs? Depending on location I could meet up with you and let you try it out.

I've been using anti-seize copper goop w/ no issues since I got the can. I simply wipe off excess and reapply the thread protector. Haven't really had issues. my concern with frog lube paste would be that it is going to liquefy under heat. Not sure what extended periods will do. Perhaps it would aid in carbon shedding in a way which the goop doesn't.

[Little Dutch]

I'd give it a try if you were willing to part with some. I have a 9mm suppressor with a few thousand rounds through it that I treated with anti-seize. It needs to be cleaned anyway, so would be a good candidate to compare the two lubes.
I live near Wasson High School, and often shoot at Whistling Pines West (because I work on that side of town).

I was doing some further reading on RimfireCentral. Silicon Oil (like Dot 5), and Lanolin based case lube both seem promising as well.

[CS1983]

Ok, you’re not too far. I could probably meet up with you Sunday evening or sometime Monday or Tuesday. Feel free to send me a PM with a some good times S, M, T, and I’ll make it work.

[Hoser]

I'd give it a try if you were willing to part with some. I have a 9mm suppressor with a few thousand rounds through it that I treated with anti-seize. It needs to be cleaned anyway, so would be a good candidate to compare the two lubes.
I live near Wasson High School, and often shoot at Whistling Pines West (because I work on that side of town).

I was doing some further reading on RimfireCentral. Silicon Oil (like Dot 5), and Lanolin based case lube both seem promising as well.

Dot 5 is really good for treating the baffle stack of rimfire cans. Makes the gunk clean off much easier.

Other than that, I use wire pull gel on my non-rifle cans.

[DenverGP]

I've used frog lube on guns (no suppressors here yet), and it was ok.. but it's mostly coconut oil. As such I'd think it would burn off too much on a suppressor.

[crays]

Other than that, I use wire pull gel on my non-rifle cans.



On the threads and/or baffle stack?

Sent from somewhere...

[kidicarus13]

I use wire pull gel on my non-rifle cans.

Good for inexpensive sound suppression.

[asmo]

KY Jelly...

What?

[Hoser]

On the threads and/or baffle stack?



The baffle stack.

Put clean/spotless baffle stack parts in an oven to get them warm/hot to the touch. About 150 or so.

Soak them in DOT 5 brake fluid.

All that crud and carbon will just about wipe off the next time you go to clean it.

I use silver anti-seize on the threads. The junk that comes in a big chapstick dispenser.

[Rucker61]

The baffle stack.

Put clean/spotless baffle stack parts in an oven to get them warm/hot to the touch. About 150 or so.

Soak them in DOT 5 brake fluid.

All that crud and carbon will just about wipe off the next time you go to clean it.

I use silver anti-seize on the threads. The junk that comes in a big chapstick dispenser.

Do you store the used fluid for repeat use or do you dispose of it?

[Little Dutch]

I should take a photo.
I took the dedicated suppressor (integral barrel) off my subgun last night for cleaning. I had treated it with silver anti-seize, and then proceeded to put several thousand rounds through it. The cap and barrel unthreaded readily. The baffle stack came out easily, falling out with a few (gentle) taps on a rag on my bench. The carbon is like concrete on the baffles. The buildup isn't thick, it's just hard. Some of it chipped off without much effort, but cleaning the rest of it appears to be quite the task.
Being lazy, I made a phone call and secured the use of an ultrasonic cleaner today.

[Hoser]

Do you store the used fluid for repeat use or do you dispose of it?

Store it.

[crays]

The baffle stack.

Put clean/spotless baffle stack parts in an oven to get them warm/hot to the touch. About 150 or so.

Soak them in DOT 5 brake fluid.

All that crud and carbon will just about wipe off the next time you go to clean it.

I use silver anti-seize on the threads. The junk that comes in a big chapstick dispenser.Thanks for the info Hoser.

I, and I am sure others, appreciate it.

Sent from somewhere...

[hatidua]

Put clean/spotless baffle stack parts in an oven to get them warm/hot to the touch. About 150 or so.

Soak them in DOT 5 brake fluid.

Will have to give that a whirl.

I'd use Jif or Skippy peanut butter before I ever use Froglube again.