View Full Version : "No Haggle" Car Dealerships?
GilpinGuy
06-06-2018, 05:24
The old F-150 has almost 300K miles on her now, so I'm starting to think about a newer truck. I'm really not a fanboy of any particular make, but I do like the Titan for some reason though I haven't researched them at all yet.
Anyway, are there any no haggle dealerships around anymore? I cannot deal with the old, "Let me talk to my manager" back and forth bullshit. Show me your best price. I'll buy or I'll leave. Don't wast my time.
If it matters, I'm looking for a full size pickup, crew cab (2 kids), 4 wheel drive of course, used <50K miles. We're planning on getting a mid sized travel trailer eventually so I guess a 1 ton is best. I don't have the ching to plunk down and pay cash, so I will have to finance. I've only had 1 car loan in my life, so this is a big move for me. Can't stand debt of any kind, but I'm getting too old to be rolling around on my back in the driveway fixing shit all the time.
Go to dealers and look to see what you want to purchase but don't give the salesmen your name.
You should then go home and send emails to the internet departments of dealers for your brand and let them know you are purchasing from the dealer that will give you your best price. You will save huge money and it's a simple process and will save you a lot of money. No reason to haggle and get beaten down in person and the internet salesmen know what they need to do.
You can also use Costco if you are a member. That is very simple and also saves you more. No haggle dealers will not provide good pricing.
GilpinGuy
06-06-2018, 06:19
Didn't think about Costco. I'll have to check that out.
My sister, always buys new when getting a car, uses the method thebolt suggested and it worked well. She researches the car with the options she wants, emails dealers within a limited radius of where she lives, says what she'll pay and waits. When she gets a response she makes it absolutely clear the price is the price, nothing more or she'll walk. She's doing it again this summer before she leaves Seattle to move back here.
Great-Kazoo
06-06-2018, 06:43
Easy way to do it is. Get pre approved from your bank or credit union. Browse till you find the right vehicle, then tell the sales person. I'm pre-approved and ready to Buy NOW.
If you haven't started looking i suggest a 1-3 yr old trade in or private sale. Also consider your price range as most used low mileage (under 150K) trucks are running in the $20- $40K range.
It's one of the reasons i just dropped $2K for tires and maintenance on my 144 K mi. 16 yr old truck.
Which i was offered $10K + Cash for this weekend. Not paying more than today's market house down payment, on a vehicle.
Option B is to gauge what you think your yearly mileage will be and lease one.
Either way plan on a $250 - $400 monthly payment, depending on down payment.
Martinjmpr
06-06-2018, 09:00
I've been casually looking as well and from what I've seen, the prices at CarMax on lightly used trucks seem fairly reasonable. Might give them a try.
We got our new/used SUV from Carmax. No pressure, straightforward. Lots to hoose from, and if they don't have something at the lot, they can get it.
Our bank had a better maintenance plan than Carmax.
Schomp in Littleton is no haggle. We had a good experience with them.
Teufelhund
06-06-2018, 09:37
Not a fan of the "no haggle" gimmick myself. All that means to me is they're unwilling to negotiate. I was set to buy a car from Schomp a couple years ago, but their "no haggle" price on the car was well above KBB's fair price, they were offering me far less than blue book for my trade, and they wouldn't budge a single dollar either way. When I go to buy a car, I want a deal - I want to feel like I won. I ended up buying one from a dealer in the Springs instead.
I'm looking for basically the same thing OP described sometime later this year. I like the idea of going through the internet and will probably try that or Costco.
ETA: I found 4x4 pickups are far cheaper in places like Texas. It's worth it to me to buy one in a different state and drive it back if it saves me a couple grand.
At least look at truecar or similar. You are going to be surprised what a used truck goes for. And don't be afraid of going out of state. You might find a new truck is worth the extra bucks. I will admit I'm in my 40's and never bought a new vehicle of any kind. Some of the year end deals have been tempting. Last year a dealer in Utah had a few white Ram 4x4 for super cheap. Likely leftover commercial trucks, but still had decent options. Just be mindful of taxes when buying out of state. Don't want to get charged twice. Also check Texas, seems 4wd Is not as quite a premium there.
I'm also in the "no haggle" haters club. They make it seem like less of a hassle but it's just a reason to charge more and tell you to GFY if you don't like it. I'm also an oddball and I actually like negotiation. I've used the mentioned tactic of looking at every dealer around that may have the car I want. They all know each other too. If you say "well Fred at dealer X said he'd give it to me for less" you'll really do well.
Martinjmpr
06-06-2018, 10:32
I'm also in the "no haggle" haters club. They make it seem like less of a hassle but it's just a reason to charge more and tell you to GFY if you don't like it. I'm also an oddball and I actually like negotiation. I've used the mentioned tactic of looking at every dealer around that may have the car I want. They all know each other too. If you say "well Fred at dealer X said he'd give it to me for less" you'll really do well.
I can understand the desire to get the best possible price but the big question for many of us is: What is your TIME worth?
I can't speak for anyone else but my free time is worth a lot to me. Killing a couple of weekends (or more) and driving all over town to save $500 or $1000 doesn't really appeal to me anymore like it did when I was younger.
No one like to get brain damage from haggling as buyer/seller, but if I can get a discount, I will go through with it .
I always go through Internet Sales first. Their prices are heavily discounted as is, and I try to haggle just little more out of it.
Depending on a supply of a car and what time and the day of the week, some sales and mgrs will sell at 100 tiny mini comission to get a sale.
Winter, early morning, weekday, high supply vehicles.
Make appt.
Time to avoid are saturday, Monday night, and Friday night. Hour before close sucks.
I once went into a dealership 2.5 hour before close and ended up leaving 30 min after closing time. :(
Show up to Jim's place this Saturday to haggle over some stuff, then any dealership will seem like a cakewalk.
Or just take Kazoo with you and let him East Coast 'em down until they give you a great deal just to get rid of him. :)
Or Foxtrot. Or both of them. I've never seen a car salesman cry, but I bet they could affect it.
I can understand the desire to get the best possible price but the big question for many of us is: What is your TIME worth?
I can't speak for anyone else but my free time is worth a lot to me. Killing a couple of weekends (or more) and driving all over town to save $500 or $1000 doesn't really appeal to me anymore like it did when I was younger.
I can understand that. I did it all over the phone last time I played this game. Also personally I find it kind fun.
I hate haggling. Just tell me the price and if I don't like it I'll go somewhere else. I don't have the time, energy, or desire to sit there and parley with someone. Even if they wanted to sell me a new vehicle for a hundred bucks, it still takes forever to complete the paperwork.
I did mention I'm an oddball right?
I am yet to experience a "No Haggle" dealership not end up haggling on the price when pushed. "No Haggle" is 100% in the favor of the dealership and the excuse of "I don't want to waste time negotiating" isn't valid when you are buying a $25K - $50K vehicle. That is a shit ton of money and a significant financial decision that will impact your budget for many years to come. Investing a few hours of your time to ensure that you get the best deal is well worth your time.
I have purchased many vehicles from dealerships over the years and below is my minimum strategy before even walking through the front door....
(1) Secure financing with your own bank ahead of time. Getting pre-approved for a specific dollar amount and interest rate gives you leverage at the negotiating table when at the dealership. Also know your credit score and what the current average auto loan rates are for that given score. If the dealership can offer better financing options than what you bank can great. If they can't, you have a valid fallback that won't get you gouged at the dealership. Also understand that loan terms and interest rates are different for New and Used vehicles. Its best to get pre-approved for the "Worst Case" scenario of vehicle you are looking at when it comes to cost and age.
(2) If you are trading in a vehicle, know what the NADA value is of it. Don't rely on KBB values as its usually higher than NADA and all of the dealerships use NADA values for trades because the values are lower. Understand the Retail, Private Property, and Trade In values of your vehicle. Dealers will hammer on the Trade In value trying to get the best deal for them but you can try to meet them in the middle by pushing for a price between the Private Property and Trade In value. Also accept the fact that if they are trying to gouge you on the Trade In value you may need to pass on trading the vehicle in and put in the effort to sell it on your own.
(3) Know the feature set and value of the vehicle you are looking to buy. For used, knowing how much the Retail, Private Property, and Trade In value of the vehicle. The Dealer will push to sell the vehicle at the Retail value along with trying to pump up the price because of aftermarket "upgrades". Realize that when this used vehicle was traded in, all aftermarket upgrades are given ZERO value add to the trade in price. They are not paying more for the vehicle during the trade in, so you shouldn't pay more when purchasing it. When I buy used vehicles I refuse to pay full Retail pricing. You can usually negotiate the price down in between the Retail and Private Property value. For New vehicles, the majority of your negotiating power comes down to the incentives the dealership or manufacture have at the time. Push for all of the incentives you can get and also ask if different or better incentives will be coming soon. Beyond the Manufacture incentives there is very little wiggle room in price haggling on new vehicles. Dealerships make the bulk of their money on new car sales on the back end by jacking up interest rates, selling warranties, or other crap you don't need.
(4) Negotiate ONLY the total vehicle price that also includes taxes and whatever bullshit fee's they attempt to slip into the deal. In the end the total vehicle price is the only thing that really matters. They will attempt to suck you into deciding on a vehicle or price of vehicle based on the monthly payment which can be manipulated in a manor that isn't in your best interest. Once you have negotiated the total price to your desired number, then you can discuss financing terms, fee's and everything else. Question all Fee's or built in upgrades and force them to justify each one. Refuse to pay unreasonable fee's/upgrades on bullshit items. Many dealers will try to sell you security upgrades like wheel lock nuts, alarms, or crap like that which are all way over priced. If they don't want to remove the Fee/upgrade from the price then demand that the feature be removed from the car. Also understand that the trade in value of your current vehicle has a significant impact to the taxable value on the new vehicle. You need to understand what the final numbers look like with and without the trade in verses the taxes owed. If your trade in has a significant amount of equity it may make more sense to take advantage of the sales tax savings by trading it in, verses selling it yourself and getting more for it but it ultimately being less than the additional tax you had to pay on the new vehicle. For example, lets say that your trade in is worth $10K and your local tax rate is 7%. This represents $700 in tax savings on the purchased vehicle. If you sell it on your own you would need to sell it for at least $10,700 to break even verses using it as a trade in on your new vehicle.
(5) Dealers are counting on customers becoming emotionally attached to the vehicle they want to buy and or the competitive process of negotiating the deal. Their sales tactics enforce this emotional attachment or competition and pray on it when the negotiation process starts. Its best to go into the process with zero emotion or attachment to the vehicle or negotiation process. Treat it no different than buying a can of soup in the grocery store. The soup is either something priced correctly and you find value in buying, or its not and you don't buy it. This also means that you are willing to walk out the door at any point during the process with zero emotional attachment. If the deal isn't good, they are trying bullshit tactics, or simply wasting your time, tell them you are done and calmly walk out the door. There will always be another vehicle at a different dealership that will suit your needs. Its also good to set the negotiation expectations up front and stick to your convictions. For example, I will tell the sales guy "I am willing to do 3 rounds of price negotiations, after that I am done and will hit the door". Then as each round of negotiation happens I remind them that they only have X rounds left so they better make it count.
(6) Extended Warranties or Financing features (Term, APR, GAP, etc) are where dealers make the bulk of their money on the back end of the deal. Most of the time dealers will pitch the extended warranties in a manner that makes it seem like you MUST buy some level of extended warranty. You absolutely do NOT have to purchase an Extended Warranty if you don't want to. If yo do purchase an extended warranty fully understand the coverage, limitations, and additional expenses associated with it like Co-pays, exempt items, and things like that. From my experience most Extended Warranties are not worth their cost in the long run. You would be better served by saving an extra $50 - $100 each month to go towards unplanned vehicle failures. At least that way if you don't have any failures you still have the $$$ to spend on whatever you want. The Financing terms should already be known before you start the financing process. Double check the term, APR, bank info and look for any extra things they may have slipped in there. For example, GAP insurance is only needed if you have rolled over an extensive amount of negative equity into the new auto loan. If you haven't rolled any negative equity into the new loan there is zero reason to have GAP insurance.
(7) Understand that negotiation processes can and will fail. When I am in the market for buying a vehicle my negotiation success rate is probably 50%. This means that 50% of the time the end result of the negotiated deal doesn't meet my needs and I walk away from the deal. Does this cause wasted time? Absolutely. But this wasted time is dramatically minimized when you come into the process with the above items understood and conveyed to the salesman. My negotiation process has also never lasted more than 30 minutes because I don't allow it to. If they want to screw around or play games, I walk. There is always another vehicle at a different dealership to restart the negotiation process on. If the existing dealership really wants your business they will make it happen.
I am yet to experience a "No Haggle" dealership not end up haggling on the price when pushed. "No Haggle" is 100% in the favor of the dealership and the excuse of "I don't want to waste time negotiating" isn't valid when you are buying a $25K - $50K vehicle. That is a shit ton of money and a significant financial decision that will impact your budget for many years to come. Investing a few hours of your time to ensure that you get the best deal is well worth your time.
I have purchased many vehicles from dealerships over the years and below is my minimum strategy before even walking through the front door....
(1) Secure financing with your own bank ahead of time. Getting pre-approved for a specific dollar amount and interest rate gives you leverage at the negotiating table when at the dealership. Also know your credit score and what the current average auto loan rates are for that given score. If the dealership can offer better financing options than what you bank can great. If they can't, you have a valid fallback that won't get you gouged at the dealership. Also understand that loan terms and interest rates are different for New and Used vehicles. Its best to get pre-approved for the "Worst Case" scenario of vehicle you are looking at when it comes to cost and age.
(2) If you are trading in a vehicle, know what the NADA value is of it. Don't rely on KBB values as its usually higher than NADA and all of the dealerships use NADA values for trades because the values are lower. Understand the Retail, Private Property, and Trade In values of your vehicle. Dealers will hammer on the Trade In value trying to get the best deal for them but you can try to meet them in the middle by pushing for a price between the Private Property and Trade In value. Also accept the fact that if they are trying to gouge you on the Trade In value you may need to pass on trading the vehicle in and put in the effort to sell it on your own.
(3) Know the feature set and value of the vehicle you are looking to buy. For used, knowing how much the Retail, Private Property, and Trade In value of the vehicle. The Dealer will push to sell the vehicle at the Retail value along with trying to pump up the price because of aftermarket "upgrades". Realize that when this used vehicle was traded in, all aftermarket upgrades are given ZERO value add to the trade in price. They are not paying more for the vehicle during the trade in, so you shouldn't pay more when purchasing it. When I buy used vehicles I refuse to pay full Retail pricing. You can usually negotiate the price down in between the Retail and Private Property value. For New vehicles, the majority of your negotiating power comes down to the incentives the dealership or manufacture have at the time. Push for all of the incentives you can get and also ask if different or better incentives will be coming soon. Beyond the Manufacture incentives there is very little wiggle room in price haggling on new vehicles. Dealerships make the bulk of their money on new car sales on the back end by jacking up interest rates, selling warranties, or other crap you don't need.
(4) Negotiate ONLY the total vehicle price that also includes taxes and whatever bullshit fee's they attempt to slip into the deal. In the end the total vehicle price is the only thing that really matters. They will attempt to suck you into deciding on a vehicle or price of vehicle based on the monthly payment which can be manipulated in a manor that isn't in your best interest. Once you have negotiated the total price to your desired number, then you can discuss financing terms, fee's and everything else. Question all Fee's or built in upgrades and force them to justify each one. Refuse to pay unreasonable fee's/upgrades on bullshit items. Many dealers will try to sell you security upgrades like wheel lock nuts, alarms, or crap like that which are all way over priced. If they don't want to remove the Fee/upgrade from the price then demand that the feature be removed from the car. Also understand that the trade in value of your current vehicle has a significant impact to the taxable value on the new vehicle. You need to understand what the final numbers look like with and without the trade in verses the taxes owed. If your trade in has a significant amount of equity it may make more sense to take advantage of the sales tax savings by trading it in, verses selling it yourself and getting more for it but it ultimately being less than the additional tax you had to pay on the new vehicle. For example, lets say that your trade in is worth $10K and your local tax rate is 7%. This represents $700 in tax savings on the purchased vehicle. If you sell it on your own you would need to sell it for at least $10,700 to break even verses using it as a trade in on your new vehicle.
(5) Dealers are counting on customers becoming emotionally attached to the vehicle they want to buy and or the competitive process of negotiating the deal. Their sales tactics enforce this emotional attachment or competition and pray on it when the negotiation process starts. Its best to go into the process with zero emotion or attachment to the vehicle or negotiation process. Treat it no different than buying a can of soup in the grocery store. The soup is either something priced correctly and you find value in buying, or its not and you don't buy it. This also means that you are willing to walk out the door at any point during the process with zero emotional attachment. If the deal isn't good, they are trying bullshit tactics, or simply wasting your time, tell them you are done and calmly walk out the door. There will always be another vehicle at a different dealership that will suit your needs. Its also good to set the negotiation expectations up front and stick to your convictions. For example, I will tell the sales guy "I am willing to do 3 rounds of price negotiations, after that I am done and will hit the door". Then as each round of negotiation happens I remind them that they only have X rounds left so they better make it count.
(6) Extended Warranties or Financing features (Term, APR, GAP, etc) are where dealers make the bulk of their money on the back end of the deal. Most of the time dealers will pitch the extended warranties in a manner that makes it seem like you MUST buy some level of extended warranty. You absolutely do NOT have to purchase an Extended Warranty if you don't want to. If yo do purchase an extended warranty fully understand the coverage, limitations, and additional expenses associated with it like Co-pays, exempt items, and things like that. From my experience most Extended Warranties are not worth their cost in the long run. You would be better served by saving an extra $50 - $100 each month to go towards unplanned vehicle failures. At least that way if you don't have any failures you still have the $$$ to spend on whatever you want. The Financing terms should already be known before you start the financing process. Double check the term, APR, bank info and look for any extra things they may have slipped in there. For example, GAP insurance is only needed if you have rolled over an extensive amount of negative equity into the new auto loan. If you haven't rolled any negative equity into the new loan there is zero reason to have GAP insurance.
(7) Understand that negotiation processes can and will fail. When I am in the market for buying a vehicle my negotiation success rate is probably 50%. This means that 50% of the time the end result of the negotiated deal doesn't meet my needs and I walk away from the deal. Does this cause wasted time? Absolutely. But this wasted time is dramatically minimized when you come into the process with the above items understood and conveyed to the salesman. My negotiation process has also never lasted more than 30 minutes because I don't allow it to. If they want to screw around or play games, I walk. There is always another vehicle at a different dealership to restart the negotiation process on. If the existing dealership really wants your business they will make it happen.
Just emailed this to myself for later reference. Thanks.
Bailey Guns
06-06-2018, 15:05
I guess I'm in the minority here. I actually get a charge out of negotiating with car dealers. Almost beat the living dog shit out of a salesman in Lakewood a long time ago. My (ex)wife and I were in a Subaru dealership just south of 6th Ave on either Sheridan or maybe Federal...I don't remember the name. This would've been about 1985. The guy got so flustered that he threw a pencil down on his desk. The pencil bounced off the desk and hit my (ex)wife in the face. I came completely unhinged and started over his desk after him. I was calling him every name I could think of and he was backing away from me, shit from his desk was flying all over the place as I was trying to grab him. Sales managers, finance managers and other salesman ran over and dragged me off the guy.
When I told the GM what happened he pretty much gave me everything I wanted on the deal.
Now, it's just like a sport to me. It's like the thrill of the hunt.
Stephasaur
06-06-2018, 15:17
I did mention I'm an oddball right?
Can confirm.
I guess I'm in the minority here. I actually get a charge out of negotiating with car dealers. Almost beat the living dog shit out of a salesman in Lakewood a long time ago. My (ex)wife and I were in a Subaru dealership just south of 6th Ave on either Sheridan or maybe Federal...I don't remember the name. This would've been about 1985. The guy got so flustered that he threw a pencil down on his desk. The pencil bounced off the desk and hit my (ex)wife in the face. I came completely unhinged and started over his desk after him. I was calling him every name I could think of and he was backing away from me, shit from his desk was flying all over the place as I was trying to grab him. Sales managers, finance managers and other salesman ran over and dragged me off the guy.
When I told the GM what happened he pretty much gave me everything I wanted on the deal.
Now, it's just like a sport to me. It's like the thrill of the hunt.
Sounds like you once tasted the blood of man and now the taste of natural prey is no longer appealing.
Do guys still throw your keys on the roof and burn your clutch out against a tree while you're on the the test drive with their car and stuff?
The haggle time is not even 10% of time of purchase.
If buyer wanna save time on buying a vehicle, make sure they go in in a non-busy day so that they wont have bottle neck wait at F&I.
Another biggest one is tell sales guy that you will physically bring in the survey (or mail the unfilled out one) to the sales person when the delivery walk through is a shorter version. They usually don't feel comfortable doing shorter/incomplete version because of survey scores.
Complete brand new walk through is about 30 to 45 minutes depends on manufacturers recommendation.
I just want a 5 minute version.
Those 2 will shave about 25% of buying time.
The primary issue for most car buyers is going into the situation unprepared. Many vehicles end up being impulse buys where the customer has no clue of what is really going on and get taken advantage of. This is no different than showing up to a gun fight with a plastic spork from KFC. You must arm yourself with all of the knowledge and tools to make informed financial decisions. Dealerships are in the business of milking each customer for all the $$$ they can. You can go into a car deal uninformed and leave with a reamed asshole, or you can go in prepared and come out of the process without getting taken advantage of.
For the guys that are time sensitive, you can request that the "Paperwork" portion be scheduled at a later time/date. This obviously requires that you have all of your loan information settled and decisions made on warranties or whatever else. I have done this a couple of times when my schedule was hectic. I would go into the dealership, pick a vehicle to buy then be done with the negotiation process in less than 30 minutes. Then give them all of my pre-approved loan information and whatever else they needed then tell them to give me a call when the "Paperwork" was all pulled together and ready to sign.
Hell there was one time where I was looking for a very specific vehicle and the dealership didn't have it yet. They were getting it in a couple of weeks so I committed to buying the vehicle and told them to give me a call when all of the paperwork and PDI was done so all I needed to do was show up, sign, and drive away. This was on a new vehicle so that eliminated a lot of variables in negotiation, test drives, and that kind of stuff. That whole process from start to finish was less than 20 minutes.
Bailey Guns
06-06-2018, 17:52
Sounds like you once tasted the blood of man and now the taste of natural prey is no longer appealing.
No...I'm a lot older now and really don't have anything better to do.
Email low income state dealers. They have price breaks rich state like CO dont get.
I got a 350z for 10k less in Alabama than the lowest price a dealer on the front range would do. I found the dealer on Ebay.
Flew out and drove the car home.
They price gouge in CO vs empoversed markets.
Does buying with cash speed things up?
Does buying with cash speed things up?
Yes, by about 5-10 minutes.
F&I do not need to look at banks and rates.
Also they will most likely work little faster because there are not too much to be made on back end.
ETA: I found 4x4 pickups are far cheaper in places like Texas. It's worth it to me to buy one in a different state and drive it back if it saves me a couple grand.
Consider this - states like TX and OK have lots of dirt roads, ranchers, farmers, and oil field workers. More than CO does. A used truck in OK or TX has a high possibility of having hard useage. I grew up in OK, seen lots of beater trucks there.
Consider this - states like TX and OK have lots of dirt roads, ranchers, farmers, and oil field workers. More than CO does. A used truck in OK or TX has a high possibility of having hard useage. I grew up in OK, seen lots of beater trucks there.
In addition, you can wash a total loss from Texas and sell it in Colorado with a clean title. A hurricane flooded truck is a much bigger worry than something just beat up on dirt roads, IMO. Teufulhund isn't incorrect though about it being a different market. One of our members here saved several thousand dollars on a brand new trailer by picking it up in Iowa instead of here.
Great-Kazoo
06-07-2018, 06:56
WARNING ON OOS PURCHASES
Some OOS purchases can be as mentioned (Flood) or hard driven on back roads. The other issue is some states a salvage / rebuilt title can be "washed" to show it as a regular vehicle.
I could take a salvaged title from NE go to say (as example) NM have it VIN verified then receive a NM Title that doesn't show it as slavage title.
If you like to haggle. We go in with a set finance payment on the table, if they can't meet it we walk. Last new buy (08) the finance guy said "With your credit rating we can get you in to a loaded truck for $600 mth"
Told him the $250 is a max payment, the hatchback is what we want. Do you want to sell it to us or fuck around trying to upsell us something we neither want or have time to waste with you.
If you are going to sit here dicking us around, we'll go to dealer X, they're ready to deal, yesterday. Or should we talk to your mgr and explain why we're walking out?
Forgot to mention that the concern of buying bad vehicles with washed titles is more of a concern here, than it is buying there, as suggested by those whom have done so.
Shooter45
06-07-2018, 08:28
Another vote for going through Costco. I got two vehicles through them an it was the easiest process ever. Research the car you want then go to Costco's website and choose that make and model. They'll email your info to the dealer that is closest to you that goes through them. They give you the "Costco" price and that's it. No haggling. You can also get a lot of other special pricing on OEM parts and options at dealer cost. It literally was the easiest process ever and I don't want to buy a new car any other way. I'm sure Sams Club has a similar option but haven't used it before.
Rooskibar03
06-07-2018, 08:49
Full disclosure, this is probably riddled with spelling and grammatical errors as I dictated it on my way to work
CarMax is actually has one of the highest PVR (profit) in used cars in the industry. It’s a combination of the huge infrastructure system that allows them to move cars to places where they will sell for the highest value. The perception of a better deal under the no haggle guys. And the fact that their reconditioning on used cars is a joke, i.e. they don’t do any it’s a combination of the huge infrastructure system that allows them to move cars to places where they will sell for the highest value. The perception of a better deal under the no haggle guys. And the fact that their reconditioning on used cars is a joke, i.e. they don’t do any.
If you’re looking for a pre-own car, car guru.com is probably one of the best sites for showing you market average pricing and what is and is not a good deal. Depending on how long you’ve been buying cars you might be under the impression that there is thousands upon thousands of dollars in negotiating room on preowned inventory. Generally speaking this is not the case anymore. The site I mentioned above along with the Internet in general has reduced the amount of margin in both new and preowned inventory’s to eight significantly smaller level than most people would think. Even in the last 5 to 7 years I’ve seen the amount of room we have to give on used cars dwindle more and more.
The reality is is you can no longer price a car with a enough room to offer a giant discount. The way people search for cars online you’ll never even get someone through the door if you price it out of market range. Pricing is high and giving someone the warm and fuzzy feeling of a good deal sounds good, but it doesn’t work if they never came through the door in the first place. The reality is is you can no longer price a car with a Knouff room to offer a giant discount. The way people search for cars online you’ll never even get someone through the door if you price it out of market range. Pricing is high and giving someone the warm and fuzzy feeling of a good deal sounds good, but it doesn’t work if they never came through the door in the first place
On the dealer side software now shows us who has what car, how long have they had it, how long does it take to sell, and what is the average market price. This has created a race to the bottom on the dealer side to try and show a client that there is the cheapest in a 500 mile area.
My advice is to take an aggregate of all of the sites available, Kelley blue book, Edmonds, car guru, NADA and then do some leg work.
No to use cars are the same and a car offered at a high-end dealership generally speaking will be a nicer example than that of one offered at a no-name dealer on used car row. A Porsche or mercedes store has much reputation to loose by selling a crappy car to someone because it’s wxpwcted they offer better product.
Several of people I work with have bought trucks from some big dealer in about state. I’ll see if I can figure out which one. Seems they got really great deals. A couple of them flew out and drove their new vehicle home. I think one guy had his shipped and still saved thousands over what a comparable truck would have cost him here.
Ok. Pretty sure it’s a Dave Smith dealership in Idaho.
http://www.davesmith.com/
Granted, my last direct purchase (car) was many years ago, but I negotiated over the phone with the internet sales guy and drove down to Co Springs to pick it up.
Local dealer treated me shitty and had the car I wanted, so i went through another dealer and had them do a swap to get it.
My last purchase (truck) was through a broker and I got a great deal on the vehicle and my trade and no hassle.
Bailey Guns
06-07-2018, 12:35
Ok. Pretty sure it’s a Dave Smith dealership in Idaho.
http://www.davesmith.com/
That's where I bought my Colorado. Unbelievably good price...but it was the absolute worst vehicle buying experience I've ever had. What should've taken 2 hours took 9 just because of their bureaucratic bullshit. And, if something could get fucked up, then they were able to fuck it up twice.
I would not recommend them to anyone unless you love pain and misery.
Another high volume place is Laura Buick/GMC in Collinsville Il. They have shuttle service from the St. Louis airport. https://www.laurabuickgmc.com/
fairrpe86
06-07-2018, 17:26
Agreed, Laura is a very common choice for guys to go get new Duramax, a new Ram the consensus seems to be Dennis Dillon https://www.dennisdillonchryslerjeepdodge.com/ in Idaho.
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