View Full Version : Dealer fuck up? Motorcycle abs freakout/fade
Dealer Fault? Just got new tires put on after replacing stock at 10k miles. Today about my 2nd or third day of riding after the install, out of the blue my abs kicks in doing 30 or so as I was coming in to a stop sign (wasn't breaking yet iirc). I get thru the stop sign and no matter how much pumping brakes didnt knock loose or free anything up thinking my brakes were stuck on.
Pull over, turn the bike off and restart. Same issue abs light flashing and can't get to speed as it cuts power and pulses brakes anytime I'm trying to move. I was able to make it the last half mile home after disabling traction control completely, abs didnt come on even though I know you can't disable the abs itself.
At one point, the front brake when using it came right back without braking with maybe a little grittiness but no real braking action, 2-3 pumps and it seemed to be mostly fine again. When I had gotten off the bike, on the rear caliper/cyclinder/whatever you call it, the top nipple for I assume brake fluid the little floppy cap was off and there was a small amount of fluid on the area. Brake fluid resevoir on handle was full to the top or a hair below the top of the window and had a small bubble in it.
Brakes need bled or possibly ABS didnt get hooked up again right or probably unrelated to the new tires.
You have a wheel sensor not picking up correctly, that would freak out both the ABS and the TCS. What bike? You should be able to get into the on board diagnostics and isolate which sensor isn't working. This is most likely an assembly error when putting the wheels back on.
Versys 1000 2015, 10k miles.
Big thing is trying to see if it's anything on them, otherwise I have a warranty thru dealer but it's down at fay myers quite far (need to double check if it was basically "power train" only or general mechanical and covered.
SideShow Bob
08-29-2018, 19:56
Possibly improperly compressed the brake calipers when reinstalling the wheels & discs. ABS systems are more involved than non ABS when recompressing calipers for new pads or putting wheel / discs back on.
I had a shop once compress the calipers on the rear of an bike I had for new pads, but they didn’t open the master cylinder to vent back pressure when they did. It caused a pressure build up and burned up the new pads & disc. And that was a non ABS.
If you can get it into diagnostic mode, you can pull the codes from the computer to determine where to look for issues, but I'll lay money that either the front wheel was installed incorrectly or the sensor wiring was routed incorrectly and got damaged by the front brake rotor. either way, it's on the tire installer to make it right.
If you can get it into diagnostic mode, you can pull the codes from the computer to determine where to look for issues, but I'll lay money that either the front wheel was installed incorrectly or the sensor wiring was routed incorrectly and got damaged by the front brake rotor. either way, it's on the tire installer to make it right.
So you think the cap off the bleeder in the rear is a red herring to the whole thing?
SideShow Bob
08-29-2018, 20:42
That is the bleeder, that should have been cracked open relieve pressure to compress the calipers to reinstall the wheel & disc after changing the tire.
But if it is leaking, as the moisture below near the bolt looks, it may not have been retightened properly.
Got to looking after dinner. Found the front abs sensor bolt hanging by a thread and the sensor out an inch or so. So there's that culprit and me still wondering if I've got air in the system from a faulty bleeding since I've got that liquid and cap off.
Should there be any kind of thread locker on that bolt? When I tightened with an allen key I was suprised how few turns into the tight position and not much of a usual cinching it down sensation, just hit the wall and stops.
Great-Kazoo
08-29-2018, 21:38
Got to looking after dinner. Found the front abs sensor bolt hanging by a thread and the sensor out an inch or so. So there's that culprit and me still wondering if I've got air in the system from a faulty bleeding since I've got that liquid and cap off.
Should there be any kind of thread locker on that bolt? When I tightened with an allen key I was suprised how few turns into the tight position and not much of a usual cinching it down sensation, just hit the wall and stops.
The only thing you should be doing is..........Tomorrow morning be on the phone with the dealer who serviced the bike and inform them they need to pick up the mc as it's not safe to operate. Then have it returned to you at the house. There is absolutely nothing you should be doing since (IMO) anything you do could have them say they did the work correctly and the issue is with an unskilled / untrained person working on their mc.
Especially since you've retightened the hardware, they could say you stripped or cross threaded the bolt not them. If that's the issue. You call in the a.m make sure the caliber and or sensor is the way you found it.
DenverGP
08-29-2018, 22:01
75916
That cap is just there to keep crap out of the bleed screw. And if they did bleed it at all, it isn't uncommon for there to be a drop of fluid come out of the bleed screw after they tighten it down.
Doesn't seem to be related, especially in light of your other replies below.
Without looking at it, it's impossible to assess the bolt and/or other hardware that secure the sensor. Ordinarily, one does not have to open the bleed screw when replacing pads unless someone added a bunch when the pads were worn, but if they did, it may need to be bled. I agree with Kazoo, your first call is to the dealer that installed the tires, to allow them to make it right. I'm not certain why they would even need to remove the sensor to install tires, but clearly they did.
Got to looking after dinner. Found the front abs sensor bolt hanging by a thread and the sensor out an inch or so. So there's that culprit and me still wondering if I've got air in the system from a faulty bleeding since I've got that liquid and cap off.
Should there be any kind of thread locker on that bolt? When I tightened with an allen key I was suprised how few turns into the tight position and not much of a usual cinching it down sensation, just hit the wall and stops.
Based on the microfiche, there isn't any washer there, the sensor probably has a brass or steel insert which acts as a positive bolt stop. I would probably use a drop of blue (medium strength) loctite on the threads, and it will tighten to 12-14 ft-lb (or kind of snug when holding the ratchet by the head)for 8 mm threads. If you're using an allen wrench, just snug works. They show the bolt size as 8x16 mm, so not a lot of thread engagement there.
Martinjmpr
08-30-2018, 10:21
Can you pull the ABS fuse and just ride without ABS? I've heard of people doing that on cars.
Not a permanent solution obviously but if it happens on the road again that might at least get you home.
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