Need a new heater core, presumably.

[ChickNorris]

Yep...

& I think I'd rather not futz with it. My 99 Ram, poor thing.

Anyone suggest a competent shop that might be willing & won't turn it into a hassle?

Much appreciated & Thanks.

[SideShow Bob]

The silence is deafening in this thread.

[Grant H.]

Not close to you, but I would highly suggest:

Jeremy's Garage
1600 Kansas Ave, Longmont, CO 80501
Phone: (720) 340-6695

[gta_spec]

Get a bottle of K Seal. Worked awesome for me.

[Irving]

Since this weekend shoot was cancelled, see if you can put together a weekend group to knock out that heater core. It'll be like an old school AK build party, but with less precision tools.

[ChickNorris]

Yep, disappointed about the cancelled shoot. However there is a bright side to having a day made available & no, its not doing heater core chores for stangers... YAY its TREBUCHETS!!!!

https://www.auroragov.org/things_to_do/events/punkin_chunkin_colorado

[Irving]

They have been setting up cannons at the place up 85 about 35/71 of the way up to Greeley.

[ChickNorris]

Tap tap tap.... this thing on?

[ChickNorris]

Uff da

[BPTactical]

Heater is over rated...

[ChickNorris]

I'm not bothered by the cold so much but it would be helpful to defrost the windows so I'm not unduly smooshing stuff with my bitty plow. : P

[ChickNorris]

City & County of Denver along with DPS likes to put all the snow to just one side of the street & cut off vehicle access for my elderly neighbors. Ive lost track of how many years & the number of times Ive asked nicely so from here on, I'm going to put it back in 'their' driveway every single bloody time. :D

[SouthPaw]

I know shops local to me that would treat you right but why do you think it needs replaced? Leaking, smell coolant, plugged? IIRC, those are kind of a b*tch to change and probably why no one has volunteered for it lol.

I know the one on my '01 Ram 2500 CTD starting plugging up and I flushed the hell out of it and it worked well till I sold it. Flushing those are a breeze, disconnect two hoses and flush with water through both ends.

[ChickNorris]

I know it & WHY I was willing to pay someone ELSE. lol

I don't have a definative answer. Leaks? Yes. Smell coolant? Yep & the subsequent chemical permafilm on the interior windows is a PITA. I wouldnt know & frankly was less interested in the experience as I am more interested in bypassing the learning curve from doing it myself. Figured in this instance & because of the worst case option I'd start with a shop who knows what they could be getting into based on competency rather than having it blow up into a hassle and suffer an idiot parade.

Differential sensor, new alternator or brake cable, I got it.

This? Yeah I can do it of course, just hoping I wouldnt have to.

[ben4372]

Depending on your location. Good general shop. I take vehicles there if it's something I don't do. Fair prices, but not cheap.

Leo’s Automotive | 1563 South Pearl Street | Denver, Colorado 80210 | (303) 722-5530

DR Auto on S Federal is my other go to. Mostly because I used to take work trucks often. The owner is solid.

[Erni]

Not close to you, but I would highly suggest:

Jeremy's Garage
1600 Kansas Ave, Longmont, CO 80501
Phone: (720) 340-6695
Grant,
How would you compare Jeremy's to Steve's in Longmont?

[ChickNorris]

Grant?

[rbeau30]

My family have been using Aurora Automotive since I got here in 2005. I will not go to another mechanic.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/aurora-automotive-aurora-2

Tell Gonzo the family with the little Red '91 Mazda sent you.

[Shooter45]

I did my heater core on a 2001 1500 Ram. It is a pain in the ass but very doable. Plenty of videos and information online. You have to removed the dash, at least the passenger side to give you enough room to get in and replace it. I had to cut mine out and also cut the lines to put it in and reattach them. It will not be cheap to pay someone to do it because of the labor but very doable job for most.

[ChickNorris]

Guess what? Done!

Yes it was a pain, although it could have been much worse as far as projects go. I'll call it uneventful. Managed to get that bad boy installed through the firewall without having to cut the aluminum lines too. Nice, riiiight?!

Shift indicator was also finally sorted so a bitty bonus.

The dashboard lid is a bit less large too. Darn. Anticipated however as it was already cracked in several places. Still three of the five (2 steel & 1 cosmetic) mounts are there so it's good enough as functional over pretty was my aim. Local Chrysler proper... if they think I'll pay $744+ for a replacement dash & @ ~ 1/3 the cost, Yay genuine OEM Ebay!

Truck is running great & I will check plow function tomorrow to be sure nothing in the nest of wire harnesses was pinched. I think I'm set.

Yay!

[ChickNorris]

Apologies for the resurrection of the thread but there is a little issue, my air vents are stuck on the defrost vents & air conditioning my windshield now. Anyone have a guess as to if it can be solved without having to pull the dash again? I never did replace the cover & it wont survive another attempt.

Fwiw I replaced the tubing that was in poor shape that goes from the engine compartment, to the port in the firewall that I believe controls the majobber that directs the air flow. Didn't remedy.

Control switch on the console maybe or ?

Appreciate any suggestions.

[ray1970]

Probably a vacuum leak somewhere.

What kind of vehicle? Ford?

[buffalobo]

Dodge 1500.

What Ray said.

We had similar issue with Mrs bo 1500 and Durango. Both would still change venting but had to lift off or apply throttle to vary/change vacuum "manually" and get it to actuate.

[Irving]

Hmmm, I'm having the same problem with the actuator in my Trooper. Interested in the fix.

[buffalobo]

We got rid of both vehicles before it stopped actuating completely, no idea what the fix was.

[ChickNorris]

It happened just a few days after the heater core was installed, ive just been living with it. Would like to correct it now but I really dont want to pull the entire dash/console off the truck frame again. Was hoping there was a fix someone had already tried & was easier.

99 1500 Laramie regular cab 5.9l

[DenverGP]

Many cars use vacuum to move the blend doors to determine where the air flows.

The vacuum comes from the engine, but only at certain throttle position/RPM (when the throttle is open, little or no vacuum is present).

So cars will have a small plastic vacuum "ball" hidden somewhere inside, with a checkvalve. That ball will provide enough vacuum to keep the blend doors working.

But it's common for the ball to crack, or rub against something and develop a hole. Or check-valve can also fail. In all these cases, the doors will only move while throttle is closed, usually with higher rpm as well (so a quick blip of the throttle to get rpm up, and release throttle quick, resulting in higher RPM with throttle closed)

For ChickNorris' issue, since it happened immediately after replacing a heater core, I'd bet a vac line or electrical connector got disconnected or knocked loose.

[ChickNorris]

So, removal, futzing & a new dash cover then?

[buffalobo]

Many cars use vacuum to move the blend doors to determine where the air flows.

The vacuum comes from the engine, but only at certain throttle position/RPM (when the throttle is open, little or no vacuum is present).

So cars will have a small plastic vacuum "ball" hidden somewhere inside, with a checkvalve. That ball will provide enough vacuum to keep the blend doors working.

But it's common for the ball to crack, or rub against something and develop a hole. Or check-valve can also fail. In all these cases, the doors will only move while throttle is closed, usually with higher rpm as well (so a quick blip of the throttle to get rpm up, and release throttle quick, resulting in higher RPM with throttle closed)

For ChickNorris' issue, since it happened immediately after replacing a heater core, I'd bet a vac line or electrical connector got disconnected or knocked loose.

[AR15] [AR15] [AR15] [AR15]


So, removal, futzing & a new dash cover then?

Probably.

[Gman]

Many cars use vacuum to move the blend doors to determine where the air flows.

The vacuum comes from the engine, but only at certain throttle position/RPM (when the throttle is open, little or no vacuum is present).

So cars will have a small plastic vacuum "ball" hidden somewhere inside, with a checkvalve. That ball will provide enough vacuum to keep the blend doors working.

But it's common for the ball to crack, or rub against something and develop a hole. Or check-valve can also fail. In all these cases, the doors will only move while throttle is closed, usually with higher rpm as well (so a quick blip of the throttle to get rpm up, and release throttle quick, resulting in higher RPM with throttle closed)

For ChickNorris' issue, since it happened immediately after replacing a heater core, I'd bet a vac line or electrical connector got disconnected or knocked loose.
Could also be the control rod knocked out of place or broken blend door.

Found a video series that breaks down the components and access fairly well:

http://youtu.be/S3U2X04aXdA

[ChickNorris]

To be clear, my heat & ac work fine, however it only blows out of the uppermost vents along the perimeter of the dash at the base of the windshield no matter the vent groups selected on the dial.

Now that I know where to look, I'll start with the harness connection to the housing shown in the video & try the rpm method for giggles. Just maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks guys.

[DenverGP]

this video shows working with the vac lines that move the air doors.

Looks like that vehicle uses an electric motor for the blend door (hot vs cold), but vacuum for the various air doors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHxiWpxu9e4

[Gman]

Maybe?

http://youtu.be/LHxiWpxu9e4
ETA: Just beat me to getting this one up with the same time stamp. Was trying to find a better one, but haven't yet.

Quite a few comments about vacuum lines with wear holes in the engine compartment and being able to splice together with hose to seal it.

[ChickNorris]

Oh good because I thought that video wasn't quite covering my dilemma. Not surprisingly, my second attempt at remedy didn't solve for it. I'll watch this next one & give it a go. Appreciate the consideration from those who know more on this subject than I.

[ChickNorris]

I already replaced a segment of that line in the engine compartment! I did not replace the check valves though & will revisit the entire length of line now. Thank you!

Fingers crossed it's that easy & inexpensive otherwise, he was quite clear the dash frame was wholly removed & it'll probably be something else in the cab or switch that came loose during the heater core installation.

Those dash covers & face frames are silly expensive (cases of match ammo is how I see it -lol) & if I have to pull the dash I'll need to replace both as they are already in pieces. Bummer.

[Gman]

Yeah, pretty messy stuff. I'm hoping it isn't something way up in the dash, but it's usually not a coincidence that it stopped working at the same time. [panic] My fingers are crossed that it's something accessible and easy.

[Erni]

First find the vac hose going to the climate control from the engine and pull a vacuum on it. See if doors move etc. if the vac is not held you got a leak somewhere in there. Did you remove any vac hoses? If so when you put them back you should trim back the stretched part so when you slide them on they hold. Sometimes the hoses seal and work until you remove them and then they leak due to stretch and hardened rubber.



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[COcz]

Yeah, it just a tedious process. I would suspect the vacuum reservoir first then something that got unhooked for the heater core. Pull vacuum on each portion of the system.

[SideShow Bob]

Finding vacuum leaks suck.............


Sorry, couldn’t resist.....[Tooth]

[Erni]

Another thing you could do is run a smoke machine. You can also roll your own smoke machine.


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[Wulf202]

Simple check. If the cruise control works it's your blend door. If the cruise doesn't work it's a vacuum leak

[ChickNorris]

I will test the cruise control tomorrow. I suspect it's a vac issue but it'd be nice to rule something out if possible. Thanks!

[ChickNorris]

Simple check. If the cruise control works it's your blend door. If the cruise doesn't work it's a vacuum leak

Can't remember using cruise control in the last five years. Nope, doesn't work. Idiot light in the console does however. Heh, forgot what a lovely shade of green it is.

Thank you very much. That was a nifty trick.

[ChickNorris]

Hope you don't mind me asking but you seem to know much more than I about this... any recommendations as to where I should start looking now as I don't see anything terribly obvious?

[Wulf202]

The cruise control module is under the battery. Lines go up to the dash to an F type fitting above the steering box then over to the passenger side of the firewall to the heater core. The other end will go to vacuum but mine is a diesel so it goes to the vacuum pump. Yours will connect to the intake manifold somewhere.

The factory lines are both hard plastic and soft rubber. Best to gut the whole thing since it's only a few feet of tube and one fitting pack from the auto store

[ChickNorris]

Yup, that hard plastic line is very, very brittle, this I know.

So if I backtrack from the known port in the firewall (along with your description) I should be able to trace it & replace all the segments & not miss anything. I believe I know where it is bundled near the battery with my wiring harness for my plow (not my install) & another place it might cross by the steering column. I'll look in my repair manual & see if I can find a diagram of where it was originally installed too because...

My truck had quite a few people in there mucking about before I bought it. An example being the electrical was apparently reworked (by someone akin to field mice, crows or squirrels) for a camper & trailer & it took me a couple days to troubleshoot & correct everything wrong. It was such a hack job that I started over from scratch & rewired everything they did the second day.

Im excited I might be able to solve for this perhaps without pulling the dash. Thank you again!

[Wulf202]

Mine was a farm truck. Had to unfuck the wiring too.

There's also a check valve on there between the engine and the t or f fitting. They're usually pretty tough but you can check them yourself or just trash it.

[ChickNorris]

Now its the idiot light for the airbag, intermittent of course.
No codes. Appreciate suggestions please, if any. Thank you.

[Erni]

In the steering wheel?


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[ChickNorris]

Idk which it is referring

[ray1970]

Zero idea what type of vehicle but some manufacturers put the control module for the airbags under the seats. Enough snowy, wet feet or damp carpet and the moisture can cause corrosion in the connectors.

Also, since they are in the elements and typically mounted low on the vehicle it could be a crash sensor issue.

I?ve seen seatbelt tensioner failures as well.

I?d say have someone pull the code and see what it says isn?t working right.

[ChickNorris]

There is an option to turn the passenger side off with the key. Ive tried with it both engaged & off. Same result

[ray1970]

Sorry. Didn?t see the part about you already checked the codes.

[ChickNorris]

Zero idea what type of vehicle but some manufacturers put the control module for the airbags under the seats. Enough snowy, wet feet or damp carpet and the moisture can cause corrosion in the connectors.

Also, since they are in the elements and typically mounted low on the vehicle it could be a crash sensor issue.

I?ve seen seatbelt tensioner failures as well.

I?d say have someone pull the code and see what it says isn?t working right.

Same 99 dodge 1500 5.9l Laramie reg cab its always been.

Also said no codes.

[ChickNorris]

Think Im going to put a dnr on this thing. Over it.

[ray1970]

Going off memory from way back in the day but if whoever pulled the codes used one of those generic OBD type scanners you may not find the code.

While parameters that affect emissions are standardized I don?t think things like airbags or ABS fall under the OBD standards and may have their own proprietary structure for retrieving faults.

[ray1970]

Think Im going to put a dnr on this thing. Over it.

Meh. You could just drive it with airbags that don?t work. You know, kind of just pretend it?s a vehicle that doesn?t have airbags.

Pretty sure my first seven or eight vehicles didn?t have airbags and I?m alive to tell you about it.

[ChickNorris]

Its the entire truck. Garbage

[ChickNorris]

Going off memory from way back in the day but if whoever pulled the codes used one of those generic OBD type scanners you may not find the code.

While parameters that affect emissions are standardized I don?t think things like airbags or ABS fall under the OBD standards and may have their own proprietary structure for retrieving faults.

Ok. Thanks

[ray1970]

Its the entire truck. Garbage

Now I know you?re jerking my chain.

Dodges are awesome vehicles and will last pretty much forever without and issues.

[ChickNorris]

Now I know you?re jerking my chain.

Dodges are awesome vehicles and will last pretty much forever without and issues.

[ChickNorris]

Still open to suggestions to remedy however. Please.

[Erni]

I was thinking if it?s in the steering wheel it could be the clock spring.
But good point that it could be the crash sensor. On the 05 burb the crash sensor design rusted out the sensor. I had a member here check it with a pro type scanner and it came back as the left crash sensor.
Not sure where on your truck the sensors are but should be able to find on the webs. It might be good to see if one is corroded. On mine it was not obvious until the screw was removed. If you decide to pull them disconnect battery and wait 1/2 hour for everything to discharge.


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[ray1970]

I almost forgot about the clock spring. Other than owning one, I?m not really a Dodge guy so I don?t know if they use a clock spring.

Also, typically a clock spring is either good or bad so the fact that she says the light is on intermittently kind of steers me away from that being the cause.

Obviously, I could be wrong.

[Wulf202]

They do use a clockwork spring. Its $75 and a pain. I need to do mine this winter. Crank the wheel and feel for a slight tick in the column.

Also it runs the cruise control so....

[ChickNorris]

Is that so...

Ive already had to replace the signal switch & another ancillary part. Recall I had to do the key cylinder once too - when that was under warranty.

[Wulf202]

If you ignore it for 6 months or so the tick in the column will get pronounced enough if feels like the turn signal cancellation

So in this case doing nothing is diagnostics

[ChickNorris]

Coincidentally, my truck had a piece of loose plastic shroud banging around on the front bumper when driving @ 80mph, on washboard roads, etc., so I used a zip tie to secure it.

Oddly, the airbag idiot light hasn't lit up since. Funny.

[SideShow Bob]

Black electrical tape over the offending indicator on the dash, problem solved.

[ChickNorris]

Black electrical tape over the offending indicator on the dash, problem solved.

THAT was exactly what I did but noticed it wasn't glowing red around the edges after the zip tie was used.

Darn thing is like 600 lumins.

[buffalobo]

Damn zip ties are trying to make baling wire obsolete.

Mine was check engine light caused by cracked and loose air damn that would collapse over 70mph restricting air intake.

[buffalobo]

On an old Toyota 4Runner. Zip tied it back together and never had check engine light again.

[ray1970]

Duct tape and WD40 can fix anything.

If it shouldn?t be moving but it is, use the duct tape.

If it isn?t moving but it should be, use the WD40.

Zip ties and bailing wire have similar applications as the duct tape.

[Gman]

Duct tape and WD40 can fix anything.

If it shouldn?t be moving but it is, use the duct tape.

If it isn?t moving but it should be, use the WD40.

Zip ties and bailing wire have similar applications as the duct tape.
Gotta' have some chewing gum in the arsenal.

[SideShow Bob]

THAT was exactly what I did but noticed it wasn't glowing red around the edges after the zip tie was used.

Darn thing is like 600 lumins.

Or did it just finally burn out from being on all the time, it is over 20 years old after all......... And you know how it is when things get old....... [Tooth]

[Erni]

Loose trim could be sending pulses to the sensor. The sensor sends the info to the cpu and cpu sees a signal and figures something is wrong with sensor. See if it comes back


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[ChickNorris]

Fwiw, I don't usually half-ass anything on my vehicles or anything else typically ... just don't gaf about this truck anylonger.

Thanks for the suggestions & appreciate you all taking the time.

[ChickNorris]

Anyone have a minute to peek @ the driver front side of my truck this morning? Just a visual inspection with some contextual understanding because im hoping for an 'a-ha' moment. My truck sounds angrier than usual when I turn but only in 4 wheel drive, apparently. Least that's when its noticeable.

Kind of a loud creak & wobble, maybe. Almost like its not engaged or ?

(Ray1970: same 99 Ram 5.9 reg cab Laramie slt its always been - lol)

My option for the repair is limited to firestone but historically they've lied & I'm not thrilled about going there so I was hoping someone could give me an idea of what to expect beforehand. Need to sort this quickly for the weekend.

Please & thank you - Xa

[Erni]

Anyone have a minute to peek @ the driver front side of my truck this morning? Just a visual inspection with some contextual understanding because im hoping for an 'a-ha' moment. My truck sounds angrier than usual when I turn but only in 4 wheel drive, apparently. Least that's when its noticeable.

Kind of a loud creak & wobble, maybe. Almost like its not engaged or ?

(Ray1970: same 99 Ram 5.9 reg cab Laramie slt its always been - lol)

My option for the repair is limited to firestone but historically they've lied & I'm not thrilled about going there so I was hoping someone could give me an idea of what to expect beforehand. Need to sort this quickly for the weekend.

Please & thank you - Xa

Without seeing it I would guess front diff or a drive shaft/axle.
Make model and year?


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[00tec]

Without seeing it I would guess front diff or a drive shaft/axle.
Make model and year?


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I would guess, judging by her post, that it is a 1999 Ram with the 5.9l engine.

[ChickNorris]

Dropping it off @ firestone in the morning. U joint maybe.

No worries. Just thought I'd get a second opinion if I could. Cheers.

[Erni]

Looks like a solid front axle. The output shaft u joint could be gone. Might be the wheel hub bearing. Front diff or front diff drive shaft.

Jack up front end side and turn tire by hand listen for clunking.

[Erni]

Dropping it off @ firestone in the morning. U joint maybe.

No worries. Just thought I'd get a second opinion if I could. Cheers.

Honestly though find a local Indy that knows their stuff.
Midas techs and such are not very good.

[Wulf202]

Typically wheel bearings will show with inside shoulder tire wear before they clunk

[MrPrena]

Same 99 dodge 1500 5.9l Laramie reg cab its always been.

Also said no codes.


Anyone have a minute to peek @ the driver front side of my truck this morning? Just a visual inspection with some contextual understanding because im hoping for an 'a-ha' moment. My truck sounds angrier than usual when I turn but only in 4 wheel drive, apparently. Least that's when its noticeable.

Kind of a loud creak & wobble, maybe. Almost like its not engaged or ?

(Ray1970: same 99 Ram 5.9 reg cab Laramie slt its always been - lol)

My option for the repair is limited to firestone but historically they've lied & I'm not thrilled about going there so I was hoping someone could give me an idea of what to expect beforehand. Need to sort this quickly for the weekend.

Please & thank you - Xa


Without seeing it I would guess front diff or a drive shaft/axle.
Make model and year?


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I would guess, judging by her post, that it is a 1999 Ram with the 5.9l engine.





SUBTITLE SHOULD BE

1999 Dodge 1500 5.9l Laramie reg cab


[LOL]

[Wulf202]

Yeah but which 5.9l?

[ChickNorris]

No unusual wear on the tire.

[ChickNorris]

Quick question for you all. Oddly, only in reverse & when the truck is moving or not, I turn the wheel & hear a rapid click clack click sound from under the hood... both left & right turns. At its worst when at the full turn of the wheel. Power steering fluid? Pump? New one to me but seems like the first place to start yes?

[ChickNorris]

Update... does it in drive now too only less so. Other thought might be the steering box?

Ugh I hate this truck.

[ChickNorris]

Ok... last guess. It reminds me of when I have hydraulic issues with the plow. Suppose that's why I went to the steering fluid notion first.

I'm going to go sort the obvious & see if I can narrow it down to that or something else. Cheers for any suggestions in the interim.

[ray1970]

Steering pumps usually whine and don?t make clicking type noises.

Maybe CV joints or u-joints depending on if you have independent suspension or a solid axle?