View Full Version : General House (Home) Thread
Piggybacking off of the General Vehicle Thread (https://www.ar-15.co/threads/172222-General-vehicle-thread)concept.
Our front step to sidewalk seam has separated and has a crack/gap from the front of the step to the sidewalk due to settling.
Would you all recommend just filling in w/ more concrete or using some sort of seam sealant?
ETA:
Pic
78280
Zundfolge
06-28-2019, 14:34
Its going to keep settling so you might want to address that first.
...gonna sell the thing and move to Oklahoma. But, if there's something which can be done to stave off the cracking, I'm all ears.
BushMasterBoy
06-28-2019, 16:32
It is called mudjacking and it ain't cheap.
Great-Kazoo
06-28-2019, 16:54
You're selling the house, don't bother.
In keeping with the OP's theme. IMO unless there's a serious structural issue, or water damaged bathroom / kitchen area. with your home. Sell AS IS.
The majority of home buyers are looking to make it their own, meaning 1/2 the "upgrades" people do to make their home more sell-able. Are usually redone by the new owners. Perhaps some neutral color paint in areas that may look a little older is ok, or fresh caulking around windows. The rest of that we need to redo the kitchen or bathroom, flooring etc. to get more money. Save it and consider making concessions as part of the house sale contract..
whitewalrus
06-28-2019, 17:42
I wouldn?t bother filling it either. Quite a lot houses I have seen in CO that are about 20 years old have some kind of settlement issue with the flatwork.
But if it?s bugging you, I have seen caulk or concrete used to fill the gaps.
Piggybacking off of the General Vehicle Thread (https://www.ar-15.co/threads/172222-General-vehicle-thread)concept.
Our front step to sidewalk seam has separated and has a crack/gap from the front of the step to the sidewalk due to settling.
Would you all recommend just filling in w/ more concrete or using some sort of seam sealant?
Okay, never fill it with concrete.
I've done quite a bit with concrete. The first question is, why is it separated? Did an animal undermine it? Are there steps that transition under the concrete or did they do something stupid? (Pour over wood or embed aluminum) or is it water issues and winter ice problems? You want to make sure you address the cause when it can be addressed. If it's undermined (like an animal) or some of those more serious issues, you need to demo it and repour to fix it. Which is something that is not that hard to do, tbh, depending on your physical ability. You can also buy that semi reasonably (expect like... $5 SF, and you don't have to do the entire pour) If it's water, figure out how to get the water away from it first.
Now if it's just a patch job, you need something that sticks. There's vinyl concrete patching material or stuff that uses additives. If you use concrete, it'll just crack back out in zero time.
You're selling the house, don't bother.
In keeping with the OP's theme. IMO unless there's a serious structural issue, or water damaged bathroom / kitchen area. with your home. Sell AS IS.
The majority of home buyers are looking to make it their own, meaning 1/2 the "upgrades" people do to make their home more sell-able. Are usually redone by the new owners. Perhaps some neutral color paint in areas that may look a little older is ok, or fresh caulking around windows. The rest of that we need to redo the kitchen or bathroom, flooring etc. to get more money. Save it and consider making concessions as part of the house sale contract..
I sold a home, and they tore it down and built a new home.
You are selling your land, not your home.
-John
Bailey Guns
06-28-2019, 19:16
I sold a home, and they tore it down and built a new home.
You are selling your land, not your home.
-John
That may be true in a very small percentage of home buys in areas where land is at a premium. I don't think that's applicable to the average real estate transaction.
Location, Location, Location.
It does matter, and when you are buying or selling a home, that is the first thing you should be thinking of.
-John
Great-Kazoo
06-28-2019, 19:24
Okay, never fill it with concrete.
I've done quite a bit with concrete. The first question is, why is it separated? Did an animal undermine it? Are there steps that transition under the concrete or did they do something stupid? (Pour over wood or embed aluminum) or is it water issues and winter ice problems? You want to make sure you address the cause when it can be addressed. If it's undermined (like an animal) or some of those more serious issues, you need to demo it and repour to fix it. Which is something that is not that hard to do, tbh, depending on your physical ability. You can also buy that semi reasonably (expect like... $5 SF, and you don't have to do the entire pour) If it's water, figure out how to get the water away from it first.
Now if it's just a patch job, you need something that sticks. There's vinyl concrete patching material or stuff that uses additives. If you use concrete, it'll just crack back out in zero time.
Unless it's a serious trip hazard, leave it alone. Let the new owners deal with it. . If you knew how many homes have cracked, uneven walkways that are for sale, you'd be surprised. Most CO buyers are wanting someplace that they can move in and redo as they have funds for it.
The seam sealers work ok but they're usually obvious and point out the issue.
Medium term they keep out the ice but if the concrete is moving it's more than likely going to move more. If the sidewalk is exposed the only real solution is to tear that out and bed and repour it assuming there are no other factors like a gutter feeding water to the area between the sidewalk and foundation
So its water based, settling or soil based.
Hard to tell based on the information given
Will post a pic tomorrow.
...gonna sell the thing and move to Oklahoma. But, if there's something which can be done to stave off the cracking, I'm all ears.
Oklahoma? I'm typing this from OKC now. It's hot & humid. Why would you want to live here?
Oklahoma? I'm typing this from OKC now. It's hot & humid. Why would you want to live here?
My guess is because it's not Calirado?[Dunno]
Oklahoma? I'm typing this from OKC now. It's hot & humid. Why would you want to live here?
Because I'm getting what is essentially a pay raise (no pay cut and they're paying for moving), it's a sweet position with a ton of learning and skill building potential, we're knocking off 13k of cost of living over the next couple of years (will pay off van and lower mortgage), and then after that a continued ~6k savings w/ the mortgage savings. Can buy a house with land (5-40 acres) for a fraction of the cost (for example, we are looking at a place w/ 20 acres and a 3/2 brick house for ~200k; that would easily be 400-450k in the COS area IF it was even available, since most acreage out here is modular homes). Constitutional carry. Homeschooling rights guaranteed in state constitution. Hunting on one's own land is much easier.
Will be in Tulsa, which is prettier than OKC. Close to Arkansas and Texas for family and friends.
Just a ton of reasons. I grew up in Florida, so while I'll have to get used to it again, OK isn't nearly as awful as central Florida in the summer.
First wife's fam was from Tulsa. I liked the mature trees in the neighborhoods. Humidity isn't as bad as the Gulf coast, but it's a lot higher than here (so is pretty much everywhere else). Ozarks aren't far, so trout fishing isn't too far away. Loved my visits to northwest AR and south MO.
How big is the crack and are the slabs still primarily level with each other?
I'd just get a tube of SIKA self leveling polyurethane and fill it. Clean well first.
They offer 29 oz and 10 oz tubes. https://www.lowes.com/pd/sika-29-oz-gray-self-leveling-sealant/999977080?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-lbm-_-google-_-lia-_-210-_-masonrybaggedgoodsrepair-_-999977080-_-0&kpid&store_code=2780&k_clickID=go_1793587572_69721651179_346854093542_p la-355250339892_c_9028763&gclid=CjwKCAjwmNzoBRBOEiwAr2V27QufFqwD40IhVvL0_DkZ S0CjdhM7W_N_EQxb6QK4SVM4XIJ59GamOBoCaLMQAvD_BwE
How big is the crack and are the slabs still primarily level with each other?
I'd just get a tube of SIKA self leveling polyurethane and fill it. Clean well first.
They offer 29 oz and 10 oz tubes. https://www.lowes.com/pd/sika-29-oz-gray-self-leveling-sealant/999977080?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-lbm-_-google-_-lia-_-210-_-masonrybaggedgoodsrepair-_-999977080-_-0&kpid&store_code=2780&k_clickID=go_1793587572_69721651179_346854093542_p la-355250339892_c_9028763&gclid=CjwKCAjwmNzoBRBOEiwAr2V27QufFqwD40IhVvL0_DkZ S0CjdhM7W_N_EQxb6QK4SVM4XIJ59GamOBoCaLMQAvD_BwE
If you go this route, be sure to block the ends (duct tape) and bottom ( sand) of the crack. Self leveling means it flows. Buy way more than you think you'll need and return the leftovers
If you go this route, be sure to block the ends (duct tape) and bottom ( sand) of the crack. Self leveling means it flows. Buy way more than you think you'll need and return the leftovers
Good point. They also sell foam backer "rod" coiled up in bags in various sizes. Good for both bottom and ends.
Best thing about the SIKA is that it's very flexible. That said, one of my driveway slabs heaved so much last winter, it tore the Sika away. Not sure why there was so much moisture in the ground that it heaved that much.
BushMasterBoy
06-29-2019, 15:29
I wish I lived here.
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Islamorada-FL/45806957_zpid/39121_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/24.99726,-80.533734,24.825066,-80.773373_rect/11_zm/
BPTactical
06-29-2019, 16:00
Picked a great day to have to replace the swamp cooler.
Freakin hot on the roof.
I wish I lived here.
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Islamorada-FL/45806957_zpid/39121_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/24.99726,-80.533734,24.825066,-80.773373_rect/11_zm/
Really beautiful!
If it had more land you could go in with friends/family. Needs a drawbridge though.
BladesNBarrels
06-29-2019, 17:25
I wish I lived here.
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sale/Islamorada-FL/45806957_zpid/39121_rid/globalrelevanceex_sort/24.99726,-80.533734,24.825066,-80.773373_rect/11_zm/
One of my favorite areas in the Flordia Keys, at Islamorada.
Go by the house on Teatable Key when leaving Bud & Mary's Marina, either on fishing charters, the MIss Islamorada Party Fishing boat, or after refueling the boat.
The house at Teatable Key is also the view from the beach at Lazy Days Restaurant, one of the best restaurants in the Florida Keys.
$17 million probably is a good price, but the taxes, insurance, and maintenance will get you.
Bud N Mary's Marina with Lazy Days Restaurant with the bright roof
https://i.imgur.com/YXKpoN2.jpg
Beach at Lazy Days Restaurant
https://i.imgur.com/ZxLA8Rn.jpg
pic added on first page/post
XC700116
06-29-2019, 17:52
Personally, I'd take a hammer and chisel to the edges and clean them up to make it look less like a crack and more like a clean separation. Then sell the place and go to OK.
And I don't blame you a bit, I'm actually scheming on a move to OK myself. I could be damn near mortgage free with what I'd make on my place and the dems aren't targeting OK anytime soon since it's low population equates to low power and low electoral votes.
Bonus is if you're into Long range shooting, the Oklahoma guys are the gold standard for a good club and organization to work with. Great folks, well organized, no BS and access to awesome shooting venues.
Ended up going with foam backer rope and “Slab” concrete caulk. Looks pretty good.
Great-Kazoo
07-20-2019, 08:25
Ended up going with foam backer rope and “Slab” concrete caulk. Looks pretty good.
It will work till the SOLD! sign is up. You have a realtor, or doing what we did. Put the word out you're looking to sell your home?
You'd be surprised how many people have an interest when you start having garage sales.
theGinsue
07-21-2019, 10:15
I updated the thread title. When I initially read it I believed it to refer to Congressional "House".
This thread somehow makes me think moving to Oklahoma might be a smart thing to do...
I'm so confused.
For potential new home, some questions:
Popcorn ceiling: scrape myself and have a drywall guy come back and skim areas which need it, or just have him skim over the whole thing (unsure if the popcorn has been painted)
Electrical panel has some double-taps: pigtail w/ wirenut or install different breakers?
Woodpaneling painting: as easy to paint as the Ace hardware video indicates, or major pain?
You don't skim over popcorn, so it'll be scraped one way or the other.
We painted our wood paneling okay. I think the difficulty will be around if it is heavily stained or has some other layer of finish that doesn't take paint well.
Paneling usually requires de-glossing. That can be done chemically or mechanically.
You don't skim over popcorn, so it'll be scraped one way or the other.
We painted our wood paneling okay. I think the difficulty will be around if it is heavily stained or has some other layer of finish that doesn't take paint well.
I saw a video about it from a drywall guy. Looked good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grtXQzevuNE
If it's painted, it'll be stable enough to take a skim coat, but if not painted, I think you'd be better off scraping. Either way, seems like it'd take a lot more mud to skim over popcorn. Not that mud costs a lot, but it shrinks up as it dries. Just seems like a big pain in the ass compared to just scraping. If you're going to hire a drywall guy to skim anyway, I'd ask him which would be better.
Great-Kazoo
08-31-2019, 18:37
If it's painted, it'll be stable enough to take a skim coat, but if not painted, I think you'd be better off scraping. Either way, seems like it'd take a lot more mud to skim over popcorn. Not that mud costs a lot, but it shrinks up as it dries. Just seems like a big pain in the ass compared to just scraping. If you're going to hire a drywall guy to skim anyway, I'd ask him which would be better.
And Cheaper.
Easiest (and safest) option: install ferring strips flat over the popcorn in the same alignment and position as the joists. Install 1/2" drywall over ferring strips. Total height lost: 1.25" remember construction prior to 1976 may have asbethos in popcorn (likely actually) so ferring strips are the safest and cleanest solution. While you're at it, you could install a fiber optic star ceiling or something. PS: I've done a lot of skim coating, many walls in my house are grade 5. It's a lot of work to do right, esp on a ceiling.
If you're out of the asbethos range, you could scrape just on the joist locations to save a little height and still install ferring strips.
Pictures of the electrical panel (or more info) please and indicate your comfort level with doing the work yourself. Is it D-square, even older gen? Arc fault? Know what the service line is? What the panel amperage is?
Reason why, if it were me, I'd just swap out an older gen panel with a D-square of the right amperage rating for your service cable - myself - without pulling a permit, and perhaps forget that it hasn't always been that way. Pull a permit and you'll be paying to upgrade to arc-fault, which is a looooot of $. They don't just let you do electrical upgrades piecemeal, sadly. Want to change out one thing? Better plan on being forced to do it all.
Pictures of the electrical panel (or more info) please and indicate your comfort level with doing the work yourself. Is it D-square, even older gen? Arc fault? Know what the service line is? What the panel amperage is?
Here's a pic:
https://i.imgur.com/5Ja23iJ.png
I could be comfortable doing the work myself, depending on what others see that I might not be aware of.
100amp main.
----
Popcorn - unsure when the crap was sprayed on, but the house itself was built in 1973. If it is gonna be some EPA style nightmare, I'll either scrape it myself while wearing PPE or see how much it would be to have it remediated on the up and up. A little lung cancer never hurt anyone. :D
----
wood paneling - I think I'll probably handle the painting myself. Thoughts on sprayer rental vs rolling on?
laportecharlie
09-01-2019, 14:18
Electrical panel is a Square D "QO" panel. Twin breakers are available but pretty pricey. Around $50.00 each.
Here's a pic:
https://i.imgur.com/5Ja23iJ.png
I could be comfortable doing the work myself, depending on what others see that I might not be aware of.
100amp main.
----
Popcorn - unsure when the crap was sprayed on, but the house itself was built in 1973. If it is gonna be some EPA style nightmare, I'll either scrape it myself while wearing PPE or see how much it would be to have it remediated on the up and up. A little lung cancer never hurt anyone. :D
----
wood paneling - I think I'll probably handle the painting myself. Thoughts on sprayer rental vs rolling on?
I'm can't see pics yet (proxy joy). Popcorn: Def. do the furring strip method, and save yourself a lot of work in the process (just have to hang and tape new drywall) The kind of PPE you would use probably doesn't protect from asbestos at all, you really need proper ventilation / air pressure handling, and mesothelioma is always fatal. Either that or get a test kit from Ace / True Value and mail it in and see what they say.
For your home year, your service meter is definitely 200 amp, but if you do pull a permit, they will make you upgrade the panel to arc-fault, and probably replace the meter too (despite that being seemingly redundant to do so). If you do that, figure out what your service cable entering the house is (aluminum or copper and rough insulated diameter). If it can support 200 amp, definitely upgrade your panel to 200 amp. Also check any cables going between say, the meter and a cut-off-switch or subpanels. You can just roughly get an idea by looking at the insulated diameter and making an estimation +/- 20% error is probably close enough to determine, then google the aluminum and copper amperage loads based on wire size. If all the service is 200 (and your meter and the service to the meter assuredly is), I'd say f it put a 200 amp panel in and separate some of your circuits. This is, of course, without seeing jack squat, I'm like Steve Wonder. And also note that I'm not a licensed electrician or anything, but I've stayed at a holiday inn and licked a light socket there. For liability sake, of course I suggest you get a permit any time it is required. [mop] PS: You can also get a permit and do the work yourself as a homeowner, but they will make you jump through extra hoops unlicensed. There are good youtube videos that generally show how to do a panel - if you do have a throw lever separate from the panel, it's pretty dadgum safe. If your service cable is live all the way into the panel, then... you would really want to ask the utility company to D/C you for a day. I would never suggest doing something contrary to the regulations of our regular government procedure, like self installing the breakers just prior to arc-fault and not paying the fee for such a thing.
Wood paneling : By chance do you have or know someone with an air compressor that can do about, 12CFM? Or do you have HVLP? I might be the only bastard that does this, but I've never used the regular electric "paint" sprayers, you can thin paint with floetrol (or distilled water, to an extent) and spray it out of even a cheap harbor freight HVLP gun with good results, so long as you have proper compressor access. If you roll it you're going to need a knarly-thick roller and you're going to get quite a bit on the floor. If you try to do it all with a brush..... See ya in 2020. [PS, I have nicer HVLP guns I use, just saying]
Only compressor I have is this: https://bid.auctionbymayo.com/images/lot/5530/5530473_8.jpg?1566822699
But I'd certainly be willing to buy a better one, as I find the one I have to be undersized for things I actually use it for (tires, etc.).
I don't know if harbor freight still sells it, but I got one in...2010 or 2009 for $200 something. 60 gallon, maybe 2 1/2 or 3 ho at most, but surprisingly can do over 12CFM. Pay attention to the CFM more than the HP, more power doesn't always mean more volume. Then, you have the advantage of being able to shoot paint on vehicles too.
PS: still runs great, have never serviced. Oil is still proper in window.
ETA: also good for air tools and nailers and all that stuff. I just use really long lines to go anywhere. Idk how you guys get by with small compressors. :D
Knowing you don't have a compressor btw, I'd probably say just roll it unless you really would value one for many other reasons. Rolling isn't that bad, just use plastic on your floor (not paper) and good tape. By the thickest roller you can find and expect to brush many vertical seams.
ETA: and go back over your roller areas visually and catch any drip runs with a brush before they setup.
The flooring will be last. It's shagadelic to the max, currently.
Order of ops:
ceiling,
paint,
floor (subcontracted)
A compressor on 20 acres? definitely a go. I already have a long hose. Just never used it.
Before I decided on IT, I did some work with a GC. I'm confident in my ability to do anything, even if it necessitates research, but I just prefer checking myself before I wreck myself.
My journeyman electrician buddy got back with me on the panel. He said don't pig tail it and just install the new breakers. I'll get with him tomorrow on what to do for that.
ChickNorris
09-01-2019, 22:56
Where was I when CavSct went away?
Probably looking at shoes that complement gun metal gray. I asked Ginsue to shift me to the new name. It's been over 9 years now since I was a Scout. That's longer than I was in. :)
On the upshot, I talked with my dad tonight about helping out with the project(s). He seems down for it.
Rip the carpet out befor you do the walls. If you do want to go "nice" to the extreme, the secret with skim coating (walls) is to use a flashlight held against the wall - fine defects will only show with parallel light on light drywall compound. Then circle them with colored pencil, fill and scrape. If you don't fix them, all the fancy options won't look good - metallics, super-dark paint, or faux flat finishes. Feather the edges of these patches with 220 grit drywall sandpaper.
I think there should be a "grade 6" because that's essentially what I've done in the master BR - floor to ceiling perfection for trimless wood tile floor with a faux finish. The living room is close, but needs floor trim. If I get motivation in a week or two I might get around to putting a pic up.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.