Changing muzzle devices...for someone who is anal retentive

[esizer]

Hey all! I finally took the NFA plunge and have a few Dead Air cans on order. Pretty much all of my ARs have A2 muzzle devices...but need to be switched out for the Dead Air devices.
As someone who has some *ahem* light anal retentive tenancies...I have gleaned that the "proper" way to change muzzle devices is with a set of barrel blocks. There are folks who swear up and down that you are "fine" to do it with anything from a clamshell to a reaction rod to a Bev block and everything in between. The worst case scenario with these other methods is you'll either shear the indexing pin, damage the indexing notch, and/or loosen the barrel extension.

Which process do you recommend from your collective experiences in replacing muzzle devices?

[00tec]

I like my barrel extension torque tool.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

[ChickNorris]

Pm'd you

[brutal]

I like my barrel extension torque tool.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

That's what I have.

[Little Dutch]

I always just take off the flash hider with a wrench. Maybe a little persuasion with the aid of a mallet if the crush washer is really torqued down.
Maybe I?m mis-interpreting the actual question, but I don?t see why you would need a block to remove a flash hider or suppressor adapter.

[Great-Kazoo]

For a flash hider the reaction rod works very well and would be my 1st choice. To remove a barrel the clam shell is the best way to go.

[brutal]

He's asking about how to hold the upper/barrel and remove the flash hider without breaking anything.

FWIW, A2 shouldn't need any excess force if it was installed properly to finger tight against the crush washer, then 90* minimum turn, then aligned, but no more than 460*. If some ape put it on, it may need a couple ugga dugga's but not anything that will spin a barrel extension that is high torque/heat installed.

The crush washer, unless some dolt bottoms it out, won't let you apply much more than about 20-25 ft lbs. anyway.

[Circuits]

I clamp the barrel at the FSB between a couple of 2x4 sections.

The closer you can clamp to where you're applying torque, the better.

[esizer]

I appreciate all of the info!

[Hoser]

Use shims to set the timing. Dont use crush washers.

[BPTactical]

If your putting enough torque to things to damage a receiver or shear an extension pin you are using waaaaaaaaay too much torque. No need for the Gorilla arm.
20-40 ft/lbs of torque is more than enough for a muzzle device.
Circuits is on the money by clamping the barrel, that is what the TM says to do but what if you can't clamp it?
A reaction rod or BEV block is the way to go.
And Hoser is dead bang correct. NEVER EVER use a crush washer on a suppressor mount or brake! Take the time to shim it.
Use Rocksett as a threadlocker.
Be sure to check your alignment before firing, if doing so visually be sure you see no shadows or crescents through the bore, you should see only rifling. Better yet invest in a Giesselle alignment rod or if your cheap, get appropriatly sized drill rod from McMaster Carr.