Honeycrisp apple tree questions

[TheGrey]

We have a semi-dwarf Honeycrisp apple tree. It's going on seven or eight years old now, and produces like crazy. That's the first problem- it produces so well that it breaks branches from the weight of the apples. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what's the solution?

The other issue is that we've never been able to enjoy the apples because either birds get them, hail gets them, or like last year, the Japanese beetle infestation stripped the tree.

I finally got some milky spore, but I'm afraid it's too late to apply it to the ground, and will have to wait until fall. Does anyone know if diatomaceous earth will kill those things?

I have a lot of tulle fabric; I may try that to cover the tree and protect it from the birds. Does anyone else have ideas as to protecting apples from nature's ilk?

[Hummer]

It's important to thoroughly prune the tree, preferably in winter/early spring before bud break. If you can post a photo or two it might be helpful. But you want to maintain 4-6 main lateral branches. All the rest are fruiting wood that should be removed every 3-4 years, that is, prune off about 25-35% of the spur branches every year to keep large healthy fruit. Keep the fruiting wood separated so the apples don't get damaged by rubbing against other branches or fruit. Once you have small apples, thin them off to give the remaining fruit space. This also helps with insect control. Honeycrisp are more prone to powdery mildew.

In the commercial orchard applying tree oil solution in early spring is critical. It helps smother insect eggs and larvae of coddling moth, aphids and mites, and helps control powdery mildew. We also used sodium salt solution for chemical thinning, and sulfur spray for powdery mildew. I didn't have to deal with Japanese beetles so can't help there but refer you to control measures.

For most it isn't practical to use garden/vineyard netting on apple trees but you could do it on a single tree. It can help protect from birds and hail. It is used routinely for wine grapes. I think of tulle fabric as too fragile but yours might be better. In Japan, light penetrating fabric or paper bags are used to wrap individual apples to protect from coddling moth and all. Coddling moth is universal around the globe and chemical controls are sprayed every 2 or 3 weeks to prevent apple worm. It can also help prevent sunburn.

[Wulf202]

Pruning as above.

Sprays as above

De will kill Beatles but not reliably

Add a pellet gun and teach the birds. You dont have to kill them. Just thump them. My grandma had the crows trained so well they flew around her yard entirely.

[Ah Pook]

Milky Spore can be applied any time. It supposedly will last on the top soil for 10 years. It's best to apply early before the larve hatch.

[TheGrey]

Holy cow, I've been doing this all wrong. Thank you for this advice, all three of you. Hummer, this tree is in bad need of a haircut- it's all busy leaves and apples, and there's no seeing any branches. But there are plenty committing the sin of fruiting wood and spur branches and crossing and all of that. It gets liquid fertilizer injected into the ground around its roots twice a year. The past few years, we've had praying mantises on the tree, so hopefully they're enjoying eating some of the pests.

[Brian]

I remembered reading this thread a few months ago but I'm hoping I can chime in with a couple questions too.

We have a single honeycrisp in the backyard that has largely been left alone since we put it in a number of years ago - a heavy snow a few years back snapped the main upright trunk, so that limb was pruned, but it's still continued to grow since - might have even worked in my favor if it didn't grow too tall. I'm pretty sure Hummer gave me some advice quite a while ago about pruning it, and you can see I've unfortunately ignored that advice.

I've had a handful of apples in previous years, but this year is the first year it's really produced - there has to be over 100 on the tree. The apples were hit by hail at least once and some bugs or birds have poked a few holes, but they've largely survived and are starting to turn red.

In order to avoid most of the bugs and critters getting them as they start to ripen, when should I start pulling them? There were 4-5 on the ground this afternoon, and I'm wondering if I should start harvesting. My wife is begging me to start making applesauce or something. Dare I wait for more red, or should I start pulling the ones that have started to turn? I seem to remember the time from ripe to "all gone" from the critters was about 4 hours overnight in previous years. I do like tart apples and I ate one today and it was awesome.

Link to a few pics:
https://imgur.com/a/78a7nKG

Next year, I assume priority is the winter limb pruning as mentioned above and watching early in the season to thin out some of the fruit...?

[battlemidget]

I spray my yard with with a drop of Dawn in a 32oz hose spray bottle, a few times a year. Just a drop of Dawn, not more. Keeps all the pests down.

[asystejs]

We have Honeycrisp that is a heavy producer.
I picked a 5 gal bucket full a few weeks ago just to lessen the load.
It barely made a dent in what is on the tree.
I will have to do it again soon to dodge breaking branches.

[Brian]

I will have to do it again soon to dodge breaking branches.

OK well now I guess I have something else to worry about! LOL