Holy trigger slap batman!

[jscwerve]

So I got an AK in a trade and got to take it out to shoot yesterday. Quite a pinful experience after about 20 rounds or so from the trigger slap. Felt like my finger had been stuck in a light socket.

Question for you AK guys is this. What is the best trigger to replace the crappy WASR garbage that I have? I don't need match grade or anything so I was thinking about the Tapco G2, but I have seen a few others out there so I wanted some opinions on others.

What say you CO-AR15?

[bobbyfairbanks]

sell the AK and upgrade your AR

[zteknik]

http://www.ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29796
personaly i stay away from the tapco-all its good for is 922 compliant parts count im not happy with how they feel
the red star trigger group gives a better feel and smoother trigger pull
i have one and im quite happy with it

[86k10]

this is what i installed in my Arsenals. i replaced the 2 stage and went with a single stage with a new Bulgarian.

http://www.copesdistributing.net/product_info.php?products_id=1261

i have read there is a fix if you have the Century trigger group. IIRC it involves cutting the tail off of the disconnector. and if you dont have the factory rivet stop for the disconnector it trigger slaps, i think thats why the Tapco G2 dont have the tail on their disconnectors. i am not 100% on that theory but i think im close.

on my Arsenals they have that big raised rear triggerguard rivet that stops the disconnector. and i know a Sar1 has more of a flat/flush rivet.

[BPTactical]

If you have a WASR you already have a Tapco G2.
Nothing wrong with them, it just needs a bit of tuning. They can be cleaned up into a decent single stage with a little work. You really don't need more than that on an AK.
If it was a rifle that has a real accuracy potential like a PSL then by all means spend the glue for an adjustable trigger, with a run of the mill AK it really is a waste of money.
Trigger slap is not an issue with the trigger itself, rather the hammer and placement of the hammer/trigger pin holes on the receiver.
All you need is a few thousandths variance and the relationship of the hammer to bolt carrier changes.
That is where the slap comes from, the carrier striking the hammer which in turn batters the trigger.
Check your PM's.

[roman gnome]

My first WASR had the stock trigger, it was brutal. Got the G2 and put it on Very sweet to shoot now.

The best money I've put on an AK.Good luck. [Beer]

[gcrookston]

+2 on the G2. I've put several of Red Star's adjustable triggers in PSLs and they made a world of difference...

http://www.redstararms.com/

[micah360]

I have an Arsenal 106U with the k-var trigger group from the factory build. It was horrible! This thing hurt so bad, I even had other guys shoot it to verify just how painful it was. I installed the Tapco and it shoots perfect now. It has a nice pull and break too.

I put them in all my AKs (and I've owned a few, to say the least).

here's a pic of the little beast.
http://www.360wd.com/new-images/106u.jpg

[jscwerve]

Thanks for all the answers and advice everyone! I now know a whole lot more about the AK trigger group.

[DeusExMachina]

I have an Arsenal 106U with the k-var trigger group from the factory build. It was horrible! This thing hurt so bad, I even had other guys shoot it to verify just how painful it was. I installed the Tapco and it shoots perfect now. It has a nice pull and break too.

I put them in all my AKs (and I've owned a few, to say the least).

here's a pic of the little beast.
http://www.360wd.com/new-images/106u.jpg

That is a hot little AK! How long's the barrel?

[micah360]

thanks... I love it.

it has an 8.5" barrel


That is a hot little AK! How long's the barrel?
http://www.360wd.com/new-images/106u.jpg

[86k10]

If you have a WASR you already have a Tapco G2.
Nothing wrong with them, it just needs a bit of tuning. They can be cleaned up into a decent single stage with a little work. You really don't need more than that on an AK.
If it was a rifle that has a real accuracy potential like a PSL then by all means spend the glue for an adjustable trigger, with a run of the mill AK it really is a waste of money.
Trigger slap is not an issue with the trigger itself, rather the hammer and placement of the hammer/trigger pin holes on the receiver.
All you need is a few thousandths variance and the relationship of the hammer to bolt carrier changes.
That is where the slap comes from, the carrier striking the hammer which in turn batters the trigger.
Check your PM's.

i was not aware of that. i have a ?, why is it when people have that problem with the old Century FCG that when the replaced it with a G2 it went away? was it the double hook style that the G2 uses on their single hook vs. the euro single hook style that the Centurys used that made the relationship difference?

and what does trigger slap feel like? with any of the ak's i owned or shot i never had this happen to me.

[micah360]

and what does trigger slap feel like? with any of the ak's i owned or shot i never had this happen to me.

it kinda feels like your finger is getting a high-voltage shock each time you pull the trigger (like the OP stated). It hurts.

[jscwerve]

Update!

So after looking closely at how things operate and doing a bit of research I believe I fixed the problem. I will make sure tomorrow when I put the rifle back together. As BPTactical stated, the WASRs come with the Tapco G2, this is true, for the most part. The earlier imports had a Century trigger group that this problem is very prominent in. I guess mine is the older version because I have the century trigger. The Tapco trigger can be identified by the "tapco" logo on the trigger itself.

The trigger slap problem on mine was not because of the bolt relation to the hammer/trigger pins, that may be a problem on some, but this was not the case here. My trigger slap was cause by the crappy Century trigger/disconnector setup. I am sure most of you know how your rifles operate, but I will write it down to explain anyways. While the rifle is cycling (bolt in rearward motion) the bolt pushes the hammer back and is caught by the disconnector while the finger is still on the trigger. When you let go of the trigger, the disconnector releases and the hammer is then caught by the trigger, just like our ARs, same principle, different shaped parts.

The problem on my rifle is that the disconnector did not have enough room to get out of the way of the hammer without the back/bottom of the disconnector compressing into the trigger all of the way causing the trigger to press foreward on my finger. At the high speed that a rifle operates, it is quite painful.

So here is what I saw when I dissassembled the trigger group. Note the metal wear marks from the disconnector slamming into the back of the trigger. Sorry for the picture quality, I did this at work and only had my phone.

Here is the back of the trigger:
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv228/jscwerve/aktrig2-1.jpg

Here is the back corner/bottom of the disconnector:
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv228/jscwerve/aktrig1-1.jpg

So here is what I did. The disconnector and trigger were obviously slamming into each other with a decent amount of speed and pressure while firing. The "wing" on the back of the disconnector is unneeded and was in part causing the problem. So, Remove the wing:

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv228/jscwerve/aktrigmachine-1.jpg

Now to remove a little more material from the bottom of the disconnector to give a little more travel room. I removed a total of about 1/32":

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv228/jscwerve/aktrig5-1.jpg

Here is the trigger put back together. Note I did not do anything to the trigger itself (bottom), the wear you see in the picture here is what the slap was causing.

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv228/jscwerve/aktrigfixed.jpg

If there is still slap, there is more material left to remove, I wanted to remove the minimum. The disconnector now seems to have about 30% more movement. If I had continued for a few hundred more rounds I am sure that the disconnector would have eventually slammed all of the trigger metal out of the way fixing itself, but that would have been a painful experience.

NOTE: Do NOT remove any material from the front of the disconnector!!! This can cause slam fires, kabooms, a whole lot of pain, etc...


Also note: I am not responsible for you damaging your own firearm, pain injury or death by trying any of these techniques. This is of course for educational purposes only, not to actually be performed by anyone.

[akguy1985]

Theres another option. for about half the price of a red star you can buy a texas ak trigger. I dont have one myself but the guys on gunco give them good reviews. These things look nice. heres the link http://www.texasaktriggers.com/