Firearms Cleaning and Lubricating

[gnihcraes]

I searched and didn't find much information on this forum.

I'm curious about some information I've seen about "Greasing" guns instead of using light oils.

I've seen where they suggest a Grease and lots of it on all parts of glocks, sigs, 1911's etc. Same thing for the AR, some even going as far as using standard automotive brake and bearing grease on the bolt, BCG etc.

I typically clean my guns with Hopps, CLP, Gun Scrubber, Foaming bore cleaning etc, and lube with either Hopps, CLP or Rem Oil. Obviously whatever I have available at the time of cleaning and lubing. I'm running my guns fairly dry it would appear, rather than using "Brake Grease".

I've never had any issues. Not sure I would change my methods.

I figure brake grease would be similar to shooting my old SKS that had cosmoline still in various places and splattering anything and everything each time it was fired. No joy.

I know opinions will vary greatly on this, but value the opinions of many on this site and would like some feedback on this "Grease" issue.

[Troublco]

Some guns were built to use grease. M1's and M14's come to mind. Others, I couldn't tell you. I think you get some folks out there who think that if a little lube is good, a bunch must be better.

[Not_A_Llama]

I used to be pretty much a 100% oil user (CLP, Militec, SLIP2000, blahblah, and culminating in a mix of synthetic ATF and Marvel Mystery oil) , but I've switched recently to a pretty uninteresting Walmart high temp grease.

It seems when I look at linear bearing surfaces in other engineering applications, they're usually using grease, unless oil is necessary for some sort of cooling purpose.

I also look at practicalities. A firearm's most stressed operation mode is under firing, which produces a lot of heat. Oil too frequently runs, evaporates entirely away, or turns sticky, while a hightemp grease will tend to hang around. Also, I don't really clean/lube my firearms much - in my experience, left unattended, CLP has a bad habit of leaving a sticky protective layer around that doesn't lubricate too well.

Notably, on my Glock rails and my AR bolt carrier bearing surfaces, I find the grease smooths out the operation some, which is a fringe benefit. I suppose in extremely cold weather, this could become a problem, slowing down an action enough to cause stoppages, but I've been in the coldest weather I could find in Colorado, and I didn't have problems.

I notice, too, that grease on the piston rings of an AR bolt tends to stick around a while, where oil seems to outright burn.

Newish Glocks tend to develop the "barrel smiles" slower than with oil, in my experience.

Knowing the fickle winds of the lubrication world, I might be back to oil again soon, but for now, I'm very satisfied with grease as my lube of choice.

ETA: James Yeager has a vid that coincides pretty well with how I lube my AR: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

[nathan0259]

I use Shooters Choice on the slide rails of my hand guns (glock 17, berreta 92, taurus 24/7) an it works great.... I'm pretty sure I pay 8 bucks for wheel bearing grease in a syringe. I use CLP or Rem Oil on my AR. My AR is a piston system so the oil stays cool I can't speak to the DI AR's I have never owned one.

[Scanker19]

I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.

I use some old Garand grease on just about everything I own. I do have to "water it down" with some MilTec or WD-40 for my lighter recoil (.30 carbine) weapons but haven't had a problem yet with my garlands or AR.

But if it too cold you'll have to borrow some oil from Jerry.

[BPTactical]

I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.

I use some old Garand grease on just about everything I own. I do have to "water it down" with some MilTec or WD-40 for my lighter recoil (.30 carbine) weapons but haven't had a problem yet with my garlands or AR. .


^This.
Look at the way the load/pressure is applied to the part in question. If it is a sliding fit then whatever lubricant is subjected to shear loading. Grease resists being displaced by shear loading/pressure much better than oil. All the lube in the world will do no good if it doesn't stay where intended.
Hence if it slides grease it-if it turns oil it.
I am a firm believer in the benefits of synthetic lubricants. They keep their viscosity consistent regardless of temperature.
I am a firm believer in Tetra products or Magnalube. The one big thing I have noticed with either is stainless steel has not galled when using them. A nice benefit to the Tetra oil- I have found that if I wet patch the bore, gas piston or bolt carrier/bolt and leave it slightly wet the clean up next time goes much quicker and the bore does not seem to copper foul as much.
Mobil One also performs well but I would not use the ATF, it has a high detergent content and is more like a hydraulic fluid instead of a lubricant. Works great as a cleaner (Eds Red solution) though.
Glock recommends a copper based anti-seize compound-it stays put and is excellent in shear loads. A little dab will do.
Less is more when it comes to lube. You just want enough to see it in place but no blobs or drips.
As far as thinning out grease I would use a light oil such as 3in1 or a light motor oil, stay with a petroleum product for it as that way it will be compatible with the older Mil grease.
NEVER use WD-40 as a lubricant! It is essentially a silicone based oil suspended in a carrier (kerosene/mineral spirits) when the carrier evaporates you will end up with sludge. It works ok to displace moisture so keep some handy when you go on a duck hunt and dunk your shotgun, just make sure you clean and lube properly when you get home.
CLP is about like a 3 in one shop machine. It will do a little bit of each, Clean, Lubricate, Protect but nowhere as effective as a dedicated bore solvent or lubricant. About the only thing I use it for is "Armor All" for firearms. It works well to keep a finish fresh and dark, especially after I did some work that required de-greasing etc.

[Beer]

[Scanker19]

Good to keep in mind about WD.

I'd really like to get some of the MilTec grease. Anyone have any experience on this stuff?

[Byte Stryke]

I'm a huge supporter of the "if it slides grease it, if it pivots on a pin oil it" movement.



+1

I used to just oil everything until Bert re-educated me.
Who says old dogs don't learn new tricks.
:D

[trlcavscout]

Grease on handguns, even Glocks, but you end up with a little on your hand after shooting. I wouldnt grease an AR due to already being dirty the grease will trap it in.

Oil on AR's although I agree with the growing movement of ATF for the detergent on dirty gas guns. I will switch to ATF soon. ATF is a very good high pressure, high temp, cleaning solution. Some guys use the ATF from their car when they service it, I wouldnt do to all the clutch material and metal shavings.

[gnihcraes]

Tried the Tetra Gun grease years ago, put it on a shotgun, stored the gun in the safe, pulled it out a year later and it looked like cottage cheese had exploded all over inside the gun. Dried up into chunks. Took a while to get that crap out too. So I'm not sure about that product.

ATF is an interesting idea.

[henpecked]

Lubriplate NO. 105
white waterproof grease

[gnihcraes]

I might have some engine assembly lube already, I'll have to check and see. I do have a spray can of white lithium grease, I'll have to read the label on it.

[Troublco]

I use either some GI garand grease or Lubriplate #130, with the exception of my glocks where I use the copper lube (otherwise known as Fel-pro C5A). Ordinarily, having been a mechanic in a past life, I'd subscribe to the "If it slides grease it" but I won't put grease on my AR bolt carriers just because of the amount of crap blowing into that area of the gun. Those, I run wet with a good teflon-bearing oil like Rem-Oil. I've always oiled my 1911's, but lately I've been thinking about trying the glock copper lube (C5A).

I'd have expounded last night but I was tired...[Bed]

[Graves]

Hoppes to clean, Mobil 1 to lube here.

[gnihcraes]

I might try the mobile one. Good stuff, plenty available in my shop, I even use it for the resizing of brass and then tumble clean after. Keep the ideas coming, I'm still listening. Appreciate the input so far.

[trlcavscout]

I might try the mobile one. Good stuff, plenty available in my shop, I even use it for the resizing of brass and then tumble clean after. Keep the ideas coming, I'm still listening. Appreciate the input so far.

I never thought about useing for brass, I still buy the expensive stuff. do you just use a spray bottle?

[jerrymrc]

A little bit of everything. I do take CLP to the range just because it is kind of "all purpose" and I can help people like Jordanls19 out. ;) Some do not like lots of lube or heavy lube. Over the years I have tried many wiz-bang items and most left me wanting. I use Lubriplate, Mobil1 (in both 30 and 85wt), CLP and the only odd one is Eezox. Eezox has some applications that I like it for and it is a synthetic.

[gnihcraes]

I never thought about useing for brass, I still buy the expensive stuff. do you just use a spray bottle?

I just pour a little on a cotton rag (old wash cloth) and rub it in good. I just roll the brass over the rag once and resize. Careful though, if too much gets on the brass, it will leave a dimple in the case from the oil when sizing. It takes very very little of the oil and works pretty well. I guess the caution is to be sure and clean the cases well so the oil doesn't affect the primers.

I've gotten many thousands of rounds sized with only ounces of one quart used. One quart might last me a lifetime.

[Scanker19]

I like a bit of Lube but only where needed. (dirty) Wheather you use grease or oil there is no point in soaking it down. I will only use it where the metal is shinny or in a new gun where the wear will be.

I used CLP or MilTec in Iraq and never had an issue with sand cause I'd use a safety pin or needle to precisely drop the oil on to the point I needed. And use the bare minimum required, on shinny parts.

The only exception to this rule is the M2 .50 cal douse it!!

[ERNO]

I would suggest buying a gallon of Break-Free CLP. Natches sells it for about $65.
I like the high temp white lithum grease, but I forgot the name brand: that I buy in a tube at an auto parts store. Buy a grease syringe from Brownnells or Wilson Combat especially for 1911's.
The best oil to use that I heard is a semi-synthetic oil. Keep the rear of your AR bolt free of oil or grease so as to keep recoil spring housing stock tube from getting filled up with oil.
Any place that shows metal wear like a shiny part: grease it.
MAKE SURE GREASE DOES NOT GET INTO CHAMBER OR BARREL!
Work that bolt back and forth a few times too get into all the right places; do your safety test.
And your ready to lock and load.
I like to run my gun's wet. But if I was in the "Big Sandy," I would skip the grease and use the semi-synthetic oil, or CLP sparingly.
I've read that Rem. Oil is bad stuff; it will gum up on you like WD-40.
Alway's, visually check chamber and bore before firing.
An AR-15 is a machine: OIL IT!
Before going on an "op", target shooting, or going hunting, run a dry patch thru the chamber and bore; and preferrably shoot one round if possible.
Always wear safety glasses when cleaning or shooting guns.
Never use combustable oil's in piston recoil spring gas tubes as in AK's, SKS's, etc etc. If you do wipe it out thorughly; or use a non- explosive vegetable based oil, like Gunzilla, but still dry thorughly.
Gunzilla will stain rifle stocks and is quite runny.

Erno

[SA Friday]

Two tours in Iraq. Give the CLP to the enemy and use something that will take the heat. I used tetra gun lube and 30 weight engine oil and my guns ran every time all the time. We used 30 weight exclusively in all the belt feds. I use synthetic motor oil all the time in my guns here in the US. It works in almost everything and the synthetic doesn't have the strong petroleum smell.

[275RLTW]

Good to keep in mind about WD.

I'd really like to get some of the MilTec grease. Anyone have any experience on this stuff?

The MilTec TW-25B works great. I keep a tube on me in my kit. Used it overseas many times and it works well in sandy areas and in extreme cold. I recommend it in addition to a little bit of oil on rotating parts.

[ChunkyMonkey]

Hoppes to clean, Mobil 1 to lube here.

+1

[BigMat]

I am not sure about the tetra grease. The last time I used it I cleaned the gun after shooting and it seemed almost sticky. Very hard to get out and I can't imagine it helped much. Plan to try something else in the near term.

In terms of stuff I've like, Miltec on my ARs seemed fine, and Hoppes #9 doesn't tend to hang around but it does get into the tight spots well.

[SA Friday]

I am not sure about the tetra grease. The last time I used it I cleaned the gun after shooting and it seemed almost sticky. Very hard to get out and I can't imagine it helped much. Plan to try something else in the near term.

In terms of stuff I've like, Miltec on my ARs seemed fine, and Hoppes #9 doesn't tend to hang around but it does get into the tight spots well.

Tetra was used during the summer. A black M4 gets hot enough during a mission that you cannot touch it without gloves on in the desert. Tetra was far from sticky in those conditions. When it got below 90, went with the motor oil. CLP just got sucked up into the metal and evaporated. Next thing you know, your gun is dry inside. CLP sucks and not in a good way.