View Full Version : Vector MP5-40 kit needs a gunsmith
I have an MP5-40 kit that I don't have a clue on how to put together. I was wondering if there is anyone on this forum that knew how to do this? I figured the trigger out, but the rest is, well, not for me. Is there anyone who has put one of these together that will do this one? I am in a toss up between selling the kit, and having it built by someone...
I see you posted it for sale...... I would recommend looking at/talking to Turner Fabrications or IGF for builds right now, and after a few months hiatus, Parabellum Combat Systems. If you do end up wanting to build it-let me know and I'll dig up a bunch of stuff to get you through....and with the help of a good TIG welder- you'll be set.
If you could get me plans on how to go about doing it, that would be sweet! I would forget about selling it and build it. I have a friend who is awesome at tig so I am not afraid of that. Man if you could help me out on this, that would be great.
I just searched under "Vector MP5-40 kit" and found this-
http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31109
SAR is going to run a step by step article in the "very near future" on building a LSC flats MP5.
HTH
Good Luck
SAend has linked to a substantial amount of applicable info....the Arizona Response Systems "notes" are good as they address some of the SW shortcomings, and the smcomp list is even a bit more complete albeit for a G3.
You should be jazzed you got a Vector receiver- they seem to be far more square and correct than the SW and will require less work to run well.
I'll send some more stuff over as soon as I find it between 3 computers & two hard drives. PM me your email address so I can send some larger files.
922R parts count may/may not be critical to you depending on what you replace with factory parts...also be careful when drilling the paddle mag release hole-there is an order that tends to keep the batfe happier.
I just searched under "Vector MP5-40 kit" and found this-
http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31109
SAR is going to run a step by step article in the "very near future" on building a LSC flats MP5.
HTH
Good Luck
The only thing is I do not have a flat, my reciever is already done. Everything fits nicely into it and on it without a problem. I need to know how far to push the barrel in, what all to weld in and where it all goes. Thanks for the reply though.
So I used the PDF you sent me and put the bolt together as much as I could, but I don't know where the last 4 little part go. I know I don't have the firing pin in the picture.
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/asrspyder/Boltparts2.jpg
ok, as you look into the "bore" for the locking piece in the carrier, the hole at the 3 o'clock position has the longest pin inside a roll pin-it is driven flush to that face- you should see the tail of the long pin through the hole on the "right" side. the hole on the left side has a roll pin driven flush to the outside face as a tensioner to the LP. and the center hole in the bolt head in the above picture takes a roll pin to keep the roller spring wire in place. If you need pics, let me know.
Ok, so I got the one in that keeps the roller spring in place without a problem. I had to take some of the metal off of the middle of the wire though for the roller pin to fit between it. I took the long thin pin and inserted it into one of the other roller pins as seen in the picture and drew an arrow to where It goes. That is how it goes in right? It doesn't want to go into the hole like that at all... The last roller pin in the side (red arrow) cannot go in all the way otherwise I can't get the locking piece in. Am I supposed to file that pin down?
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/asrspyder/SANY0177.jpg
You are on it! Do you have some calipers you can measure the roll pins? It is possible that the sizes you got in your kit are not exactly right. I can't find dimensions for the roll pins in my stuff- yet. Not sure if I have them but I thought I did. The pin that goes where your red arrow does protrude quite a bit internally-but maybe the roll pin you have is a touch too long? I'll post a pic or two here shortly.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3867/img0892l.jpg
All of the pins are the same size. Is the pin that the red arrow is pointing to supposed to touch the locking thing or just be there so the locking thing cannot spin all the way around? The way it is in the picture, it will not let it spin all the way around, it isn't actually up next to it and touching it though. If that is all it is supposed to do, I will just file the pin down and make it flush.
more pics coming shortly...batteries just died. If you look at your LP...do you see on the side of the eccentric lobe the rounded slot? that slot cradles the longer pin when in position- so in the above pic the LP insertion should be counter clockwise rotation. The roll pin should keep you from rotating it clockwise.
In the "port" at the 11:30 position above- if the LP is installed that "cradle/slot" should be captured with the long pin and be clearly visible- that functions sort of as a tensioning "spring".
In the bolt head itself, my roll pin that captures the roller spring protrudes about 20 thousandths into the bore for the LP- this rides in the slot on the spade of the LP.
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/6792/img0898mm.jpg
I got all of the pins in, it is just the pin on the side that I am going to have to file down that is left.
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/asrspyder/SANY0179.jpg
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/asrspyder/SANY0182.jpg
The next question is about the barrel into the trunon. There is a notch taken out of the barrel (yellow) and I am wondering where it goes, up, down, on one of the sides... and how far do I push the barrel in? Does it go till it is flush with the lip on the trunon (red)? Or do I push it in further? Oh, and how do I tell how the size on my rollers? All I have is a tape measure right now...
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h403/asrspyder/SANY0183.jpg
The receiver below is really embarassingly dirty- as I have not cleaned it after it was cut/demilled. I am no expert at all with building these but hopefully this helps-please consult with others more adept at this than I! There are some cats on hkpro that could help I'm sure.
I believe the best thing to do is to tack the trunion in place first?
The trick is to get something rigid/appropriately shaped and non-marring into the receiver to press against the trunion face etc. etc. Pressing the barrel into the trunion until "close" before tacking makes sense to me.
I can see merit for pressing the barrel from either direction... I typically like to freeze the pressed piece and have the receiving end at least pretty warm to help with getting a good square start and to minimize the possibility of galling.
I suppose "worst" case is that you have to grind off the weldment/remove the trunion/barrel and buy another trunion and start over if something goes awry like the barrel is pressed in too far or ??
standard rollers are typically not marked on the smooth end, +2/+4 or -2 etc. rollers are usually marked, sometimes with just dashes vs numerals. I believe the standard rollers should measure 8.0mm diam. You will need feeler gauges to measure your bolt gap.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5322/img0901y.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8641/img0900z.jpghttp://img155.imageshack.us/i/img0901y.jpg/
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