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Delphi
01-23-2006, 02:23
Looking to start reloading... i'm a complete newb,


this is a list of the ammo i'd like the be able to reload

.223
30-30
.357 mag
.303 brit
7.5x55 swiss

Maybee also
7.62x39
.45 APC
9mm
.308
.3006

I'm not looking for somthing that will be 100 more times accuracte as factory ammo, i just want it to be around as accurate as factory ammo and SAFE. Basically i just want some stuff to shoot paper, cheaper than i can buy it for.

So how do i start?
Should i be concerned with the gunpowder? My father thinks that if i start reloading i'll blow up the house. (going to college living with my parents)
Any tips and suggestions how i should go? I looked at some hand cranked models that were pretty interesting. Any good ones? Or are the single hand presses better?
Would any one be willing to teach a poor newbish college kid? :lol:

Marlin
01-23-2006, 04:57
*Moved to reloading forum*


First of all get Yourself a couple of good reloading manuals, and read through them. Decide on a single stage or a progresive loader. a single stage works good, bt, if Your planning on doing high quantities the progresive is much better.

The You'll need god dies for the calibers that You want to reload for. Out of Your choices, .223,.308, .30/06, 9mm,.45ACP, Unless Your working up accuracy loads for High power or IDPA or, something similar. Or You need extreme high quantities, its just cheaper to buy surplus.

The same goes for 7.62X39 as long as Wolf is out the I can't justify that one.

If Your Dad is worried about it, just get a fire/explosion proof box to store powder and primers in.I know that Cabella's had them and, I sure You could get one at anyplace that has loading supplies.

Just remember to pay attention to what Your doing at all times while Your reloading, and You should have no problems.

The1andOnlyKC
01-23-2006, 10:39
Yeah What Marlin said. Dont waste your time with .223 9mm 45 or 7.62x39.

Otherwise a progressive press would be the way to go. I have a standard press and it takes time to complete the round. but I only load 7mm and 30-06 with it.

RYAN50BMG
01-23-2006, 18:21
I quit reloading once Wolf hit the scene. Components for 1000 rds of 9mm 115 gr. ball run about 85-90$ at the gun shows and I can get a case(1000 rds) of Wolf for about 105-115$, so it's not worth it on an RCBS single stage press. Plus, you still need to have the brass. I know you might think that 20$ a thousand is worth it, but crank out that thousand rounds on a single stage press and you will see what I mean. Ryan

Marlin
01-23-2006, 18:51
Did that once,, Never again. :lol:

michael_aos
01-23-2006, 19:53
RL550B.

Reloading .223 makes sense for 69gr and 77gr.

And even my 55gr FMJ handloads are a lot more accurate than XM193, for example.

I don't save a lot loading 9mm, but I like shooting ~125PF loads for steel.

HUGE, HUGE savings loading 260 Remington.

I load .40 S&W for IPSC. Just picked up a case of bullets this afternoon.

I do shoot a lot of factory 9mm and factory .223 even though I could load it.

Be aware that you have to trim rifle brass. That's a pain.

Mike

Delphi
01-24-2006, 01:10
ya i guess that wouldnt be worth it... but .223, 303, and 3006 would be... 308 would be borderline worth/not worth it.

Bumblebee Bob
01-24-2006, 10:30
In my experience you can reload .223 55gr soft point ammo for about the same price as surplus/Wolf 5.56 FMJ. Essentially you're loading hunting ammo for the same price. But that doesn't include the cost of your time, only compontents.

I store my powder in one of those real cheap sheetmetal roll around tool boxes like you find at Walmart. And then I store the primers in the lift off tool box that sits on top. Never store them together. Bad juju.

But I haven't done any reloading in about 5/6 years. I do need to build some more -06 for the Garand and .303 Brit though.

KarlPMann
01-24-2006, 10:35
The only thing I've decided about types of reloading presses over the years was this. Progressives are VERY good for pistol ammo. For rifle ammo, they have one glitch. Many rifle rounds require trimming if they are re-used (sometimes only if used multiple times) and therefore must be pulled from the loader after re-sizing, trimmed, then placed back on the press. You can eliminate this procedure if you get a Dillon and have enough stages to add the trimmer that they make for press mounting. Moral of the story, GET A DILLON if you go progressive... duh, did I really need to say that. :roll: Karl. :wink:

michael_aos
01-24-2006, 10:40
I figure roughly $.18 to load 69gr SMK's -- similar to Black Hills. They're $.46 from Cabela's.

Roughly $.16 to load Hornady 55gr FMJBT.

260 Remington is $.30 - $.60 depending on the combination of bullets & brass. Factory ammo is >$1/rd.

My IPSC load of N320 & Montana Gold 180gr is ~$.13.

I figure $.085/rd for 9mm.

Not counting time & equipment. Not always counting hazmat & shipping or taxes.

Mike

michael_aos
01-24-2006, 10:46
I'm not saying it's the RIGHT way, but they way I have been doing rifle brass is...

tumble it clean
lube
inset toolhead w/neck-sizing die only
neck-size / deprime / prime
trim
insert toolhead w/powder die & seating die
load
tumble to remove lube

Pistol ammo is a lot less hassle.

Mike