Anyone here a shade-tree/Hobbyist Mechanic?

[Byte Stryke]

So I drive up to the greasy lube whatever and have the engine oil changed.
These yokels tell me that I have to have both Diffs, the transfer and Transmission fluids changed.
OK, I can buy some of that...
Then the guy tells me it will be about $450.

So, having not been born yesterday, I declined.
Push comes to shove I will fumble through most of it myself.
The only thing I wouldn't be Warm and fuzzy with is the 4L60E.
Only because I haven't done one of those.

If anyone has a nice warm Garage and the tools and or experience I would be willing to front the Pizza and or beer

[zteknik]

damn Byte
too bad i wasnt living in Co yet!
id do it for ya in a heartbeat! ice tea instead of beer though[Coffee]
what kind of vehicle is it?
bigest cost would be the fluids depending on what it takes
some diffs take 75w140 synthetic gear oil with fricton modifier
stuff gets expensive if you got a big diff like a f550 dump
good luck pal!

[StagLefty]

Hell Byte they tell me that crap everytime I get my oil changed at Omeara [ROFL1]

[Byte Stryke]

damn Byte
too bad i wasnt living in Co yet!
id do it for ya in a heartbeat! ice tea instead of beer though[Coffee]
what kind of vehicle is it?
bigest cost would be the fluids depending on what it takes
some diffs take 75w140 synthetic gear oil with fricton modifier
stuff gets expensive if you got a big diff like a f550 dump
good luck pal!

2004 Chevy Blazer 4x4


Hell Byte they tell me that crap everytime I get my oil changed at Omeara [ROFL1]

Yeah but I Figure if I get someone else to look it over and it does get done then I don't wind up pulling an OPIE
:D

[zteknik]

[quote=Byte Stryke;287260]2004 Chevy Blazer 4x4

should be cheap enuff-front diff takes 2-3 pints of 90 weight and the rear takes up to 4 could be either synth or regular and if its a limited slip youl need the friction modifier or youll burn the clutch pacs out-yea i tried to bypass that once and the thing chattered like a mo fo!!
but if its runnin fine and not leaking i wouldnt get overly concerned till the nice wheather and after tax returns;)

[68Charger]

The only thing I wouldn't be Warm and fuzzy with is the 4L60E.


depending on the year, the newer ones call for Dextron VI (don't recall the year they started), it's a 100k+ mi fluid synthetic, and pricey... check your owner's manual for change intervals!

I've done the 4L60E... it's not too hard, but with no drain plug, it's common to splash ATF all over when the pan comes loose [Coffee]

[trlcavscout]

I dont have a place and I am kinda far or I would help out. It is pretty easy getting the fluids out of the diffs, the front can be a challenge to get fluid back in depending on what you have to use. The transmission service should be easy, some you had to lift the trans up a little off the cross member to get the pan off though. I wouldnt have the trans flushed if you have a lot of miles on it and havent kept it serviced though. I was a GM automatic transmission tech for 9 years so I have done a few.

The 4L60-E is my favorite money making transmission [Beer]

[zteknik]

depending on the year, the newer ones call for Dextron VI (don't recall the year they started), it's a 100k+ mi fluid synthetic, and pricey... check your owner's manual for change intervals!

I've done the 4L60E... it's not too hard, but with no drain plug, it's common to splash ATF all over when the pan comes loose [Coffee]
they told me in tech school that it was SOP to wear the fluid while draining the pan[LOL]

[SideShow Bob]

Park on level ground or in a garage, put a drain pan under diff. Remove the fill plug. Then remove the drain plug, ( if no drain plug, loosen but don't remove diff. cover bolts and give bottom of cover a firm thump with a plastic mallet to break the seal ) let fluid drain and reinstall drain plug ( or now remove cover bolts clean surfaces, replace gasket reinstall cover and bolts and torque to specs ), fill with proper fluid or gear lube reinstall fill plug, done.
Oh yeah, think green, take old lube to recycling center.

Edit: for the transfer case you would need to drop the skid plate then remove the fill plug and drain plug unless you want fluid dripping from it for a couple of weeks.
I take my truck to have the tranny done properly, too much hassle and it can get flushed out.

[jmg8550]

As far as the differentials go, I would personally use synthetic gear oil in them. I have seen far too many differential failures at the dealership from using conventional oils. Especially the front diff. The transmission should be power flushed. Dropping the trans pan and changing the fluid and filter only gets about 1/3 of the old stuff out. The transfer case may need a special fluid from the dealer if it is auto 4X4. Synthetic is not necessary in the trans or transfer case. You will spend a little more for the gear oil, but it is well worth it. Less wear and tear on the bearings, as those are the weak parts. Just my opinion and advise. I worked at a GMC dealership from 2003 to 2005 and saw alot of the problems in those years.

[BPTactical]

I take my truck to have the tranny done properly, too much hassle and it can get flushed out.

Flushing generally isnt a good thing. You are much better off shortening durations between fluid changes to 12-15K.

[jscwerve]

It is a very simple job to do. You will definitely want a drip pan for dropping the tranny pan, I have taken a few showers in ATF in my time. If you were closer I would say come on by and I could give you a hand.

Whatever you do, don't pay the yahoos at the grease monkey or whatever $89 bux each for things as easy as diff fluids, it is highway robbery.

So you don't make as much of a mess with the diffs, you can pick up a cheapo vacuum pump from harbor freight or wally world and pull the gear oil out that way, then don't have to worry about diff gaskets, silicone, etc.

[opie011]

Yeah but I Figure if I get someone else to look it over and it does get done then I don't wind up pulling an OPIE
:D
Hey now! I usually don't let the service interval go that long but shit happens[Coffee]. Plus I've put over 120,000 miles of hard towing in the last 3-4 years and the stock 47RE is weak to begin with. Anyway, I can help with the diffs no problem but I've only ever serviced the 48RE in my dads truck and my 47RE in my truck. You find how to do it and we can use my shop!!

[opie011]

So you don't make as much of a mess with the diffs, you can pick up a cheapo vacuum pump from harbor freight or wally world and pull the gear oil out that way, then don't have to worry about diff gaskets, silicone, etc.

True but then you can't visually inspect the gears.

[Byte Stryke]

Hey now! I usually don't let the service interval go that long but shit happens[Coffee]. Plus I've put over 120,000 miles of hard towing in the last 3-4 years and the stock 47RE is weak to begin with. Anyway, I can help with the diffs no problem but I've only ever serviced the 48RE in my dads truck and my 47RE in my truck. You find how to do it and we can use my shop!!


I was just yankin yer chain Brother.

My primary issue is the lack of a facility to do this.
So if you really don't mind, Let me know when you are available here, I will be there.

[opie011]

I was just yankin yer chain Brother.

My primary issue is the lack of a facility to do this.
So if you really don't mind, Let me know when you are available here, I will be there.

Sending PM...

[jscwerve]

Sent ya a PM Byte, I'm available, but looks like Opie is much closer and has an actual shop to use. Either way, it'll get done much cheaper than some oil change shop or stealership.

[SideShow Bob]

Flushing generally isnt a good thing. You are much better off shortening durations between fluid changes to 12-15K.

What ? No wise crack about flushing ? Old age must be getting to you.
So let me try, flushing is a good thing, unless you still use an outhouse.

[BPTactical]

=Byte Stryke-My primary issue is the lack of a faculties to do this.
There-fixed it for ya[ROFL1]




What ? No wise crack about flushing ? Old age must be getting to you.
So let me try, flushing is a good thing, unless you still use an outhouse.

At least I am young enough to still be able to poop[Coffee]

[sniper7]

I dont have a place and I am kinda far or I would help out. It is pretty easy getting the fluids out of the diffs, the front can be a challenge to get fluid back in depending on what you have to use. The transmission service should be easy, some you had to lift the trans up a little off the cross member to get the pan off though. I wouldnt have the trans flushed if you have a lot of miles on it and havent kept it serviced though. I was a GM automatic transmission tech for 9 years so I have done a few.

The 4L60-E is my favorite money making transmission [Beer]

why wouldn't you do the tranny fluid?

only reason I ask, is I have a 1997 silverado I bought recently that I am thinking should have the fluids changed all the way around. it is at 130K and I have no idea about previous maintenance.

[Byte Stryke]

Blazer only has 118K on it as FYI
I Picked it up with 115K

[trlcavscout]

why wouldn't you do the tranny fluid?

only reason I ask, is I have a 1997 silverado I bought recently that I am thinking should have the fluids changed all the way around. it is at 130K and I have no idea about previous maintenance.

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not [Beer]

[sniper7]

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not [Beer]

So for my truck what would you recommend? I have no idea what has been done to it and it has 130k. I know when I changed the oil it was pretty nasty and had a lot of funk on the magnet drain bolt. If that is any indication I am guessing leave it alone unless I want a new tranny.

[earplug]

Do the filter change.
If you have a transmission cooler you can drain several quarts out by removing the lines.
I have added new fluid, then pumped out some of the old stuff by running the engine in drive while it on jack stands. Takes two people.
Some people claim ATF is good weapons lube. Take some under with you.

[zteknik]

I always reccomend fluid filter changes, not flushing for several reasons. Obviously the filter needs changed so thats a plus. If a transmission hasnt been properly maintained and you flush it at high mileage it usually ends up slipping soon after if it even makes it out of the shop from the flush. Lip seals get jacked, and a lot of times the only thing keeping clutch packs together is the friction material thats in the fluid. I have seen many transmissions and torque convertors fail during or right after a flush, most are higher mileage, less maintenance type vehicles. But I have flushed some with like 30k and then they wouldnt back out of my stall. True fluid filter change will only get 4-6 qts compared to 12-16 on a flush.

BUT for me and most transmission guys the number one reason for fluid/filter change over flushing is I want to see whats in the pan, not flush it back into the transmission. How much stuff and what kind of stuff is in the filter and on the magnet will determine if I take any long trips with it or not [Beer]
when i worked for ford they were big on the push for the B.G tranny flushes
like you said id rather not use it on higher milage vehicles-i use to leave that deciscion up to the customer after i told them the hazards of flushing an older trans-most would decline the service
i only had 3 instances where after a flush the vehicle wouldnt move-but again the customers were forewarned 2 out of the 3 authorized rebuilding
the one just towed it out
also with every trans service i would service the t-case as well

[sniper7]

when i worked for ford they were big on the push for the B.G tranny flushes
like you said id rather not use it on higher milage vehicles-i use to leave that deciscion up to the customer after i told them the hazards of flushing an older trans-most would decline the service
i only had 3 instances where after a flush the vehicle wouldnt move-but again the customers were forewarned 2 out of the 3 authorized rebuilding
the one just towed it out
also with every trans service i would service the t-case as well


Any hazards with flushing a transfer case that you have no idea how much it was used or miles on it? it isn't a push button 4x4, its on the floor of my 1997 silverado.

[zteknik]

Any hazards with flushing a transfer case that you have no idea how much it was used or miles on it? it isn't a push button 4x4, its on the floor of my 1997 silverado.
never realy saw any issues with the manual transfer cases-just look for any chunky stuff while draining-might be a sign of a bigger problem,chipped gears and such
also goes for the electronic ones as well
you can probably get away with just 90 weight gear oil
i think the synthetic might be a bit too thin for older unknown milage applications

[Graves]

I've been a full time mechanic for 8yrs (former auto, current med/hvy duty), but I usually pass on side jobs unless I have a stranded family member. I don't mind helpin a friend out on occasion but I'm currently on disability for the next month and a half. If you want to save a boatload shoot me a PM as I have a friend that I work with that does side work all the time. He lives off of 112th & Colorado blvd. He's also a lurker here lol.


So for my truck what would you recommend? I have no idea what has been done to it and it has 130k. I know when I changed the oil it was pretty nasty and had a lot of funk on the magnet drain bolt. If that is any indication I am guessing leave it alone unless I want a new tranny.

Dump what's I the pan and swap the filter (top it off). Hit your T-case too, it'll be fine.