10/22 upgrade questions

[DFBrews]

Since building an AR is out of the gun budget for a while I am giving my old 10/22 a tune up. I sand blasted and clear coated the receiver and trigger assembly, looks really good. going to re finish the stock from blonde to a red chestnut as well.
I ordered the Volquartsen target hammer along with the extractor plunger that flew out during assembly of the bolt after I jeweled it and safety spring and plunger that where lost during removal... that is one hell of a little spring. [Bang]
If I polish up the sear and disconnector with the new hammer will my trigger pull be to light to be safe?
I plan on putting a 18" bull barrel in stainless on it. free floating so I am pretty sure I need to bed the barrel and action, should I pillar the take down screw as well as the action or just one or the other? I am going to bed the barrel to the balance point.
also I am going to add a over travel adjustment screw but don't know whether or not to put the set screw on the trigger or in the trigger guard ( it is a 1984 rifle so the guard is Aluminum.) and I have little tiny taps

Basically right now I know enough about accurizing them to be dangerous but not enough to be effective.

Any help would be amazing.

[Great-Kazoo]

the .920 bbl is going to require removal of material in the bbl channel to allow correct fitment.
i did the OT screw on the trigger. I would leave the sear engagement work alone until you have it back together and do some shooting.
there is a tech tip on this sight that walks you through gleaning up your stock trigger assy, that did the job for my needs, as well as many other tips, tricks and general how to's.
I did lighten the hammer spring which did not work on the different ammo i use so that went back to stock. i lightened up the trigger a tad and polished all contact surfaces, slowly until achieved what i wanted.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php

do keep in mind you eventually hit the point of no return on your $200 base priced 10/22 that will have more in to it than a rack grade AR.

[newracer]

I put the overtravel screw in the trigger guard on line. Added an adjustment screw to the sear and polished everything. You can also use JB weld to fill in the gaps between the sear and disconnector.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220

[DFBrews]

Thanks for the site guys. This was my first rifle . I got it for christmas when I was six. so there is sentimental value I figure the 35 dollar hammer hundred ish for the barrel wont break the bank. all the other stuff I will do and my labor is CHEAP :)

I guess I will wait till the hammer gets here and take it shooting and see what I think it still needs. Not looking for sub MOA at fifty yards just Minute of prairie dog head[UZI]

[DFBrews]

Here she stands as of today that hammer is AMAZING! have not shot it yet hopefully friday.


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5369385230_360d4b2693_z.jpg

[nathan0259]

Your going shooting with out me!!! That's not cool.

[DFBrews]

Your going shooting with out me!!! That's not cool.

stop by Jammy's house after you get off work. that is where i will be

[Bill]

Since building an AR is out of the gun budget for a while I am giving my old 10/22 a tune up. I sand blasted and clear coated the receiver and trigger assembly, looks really good. going to re finish the stock from blonde to a red chestnut as well.
I ordered the Volquartsen target hammer along with the extractor plunger that flew out during assembly of the bolt after I jeweled it and safety spring and plunger that where lost during removal... that is one hell of a little spring. [Bang]
If I polish up the sear and disconnector with the new hammer will my trigger pull be to light to be safe?
Do not polish Sear and disconnector. Danger, Danger, Danger
Now I will PM you a pre travel fix

I plan on putting a 18" bull barrel in stainless on it. free floating so I am pretty sure I need to bed the barrel and action, should I pillar the take down screw as well as the action or just one or the other? I am going to bed the barrel to the balance point.

Free float action and barrel Bed the piller area there take down screw goes in and the frist inch or two of barrel should be bedded that what I have done on my bull barrel

also I am going to add a over travel adjustment screw but don't know whether or not to put the set screw on the trigger or in the trigger guard ( it is a 1984 rifle so the guard is Aluminum.) and I have little tiny taps

Basically right now I know enough about accurizing them to be dangerous but not enough to be effective.

Any help would be amazing.

[nogaroheli]

I put the overtravel screw in the trigger guard on line. Added an adjustment screw to the sear and polished everything. You can also use JB weld to fill in the gaps between the sear and disconnector.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220

This.

I did all that to mine and it turned out great. Light, crisp, goodtimes. I did have to file down the JB Weld, shoot, file, shoot while at the range to get it just right. Overall I probably have an hour and a few bucks into a trigger that feels a bazillion times better than the stock one.