how to modify 1911 ejector

[Robb]

My Colt Series 70 5" is throwing brass randomly, and alot of it comes right back off the top of my head or worse, it shoots right back into my face. I've been hunting for a web tutorial showing me how to modify the ejector but have had no luck so far. What I'd like is for the brass to be thrown out at a 2:00 to 3:00 o'clock instead of 6:00. Can anyone tell me of a site or explain what needs to be done to modify the direction of the spent brass?

Thanks

Robb

[Graves]

How many rounds do you have through it, and when was the last time you've done a spring swap? I'd also make sure the extractor is clean and snug.

[Robb]

I bought the gun new, maybe around 1986. It has had the ejection port lowered. I've used Colt and Wilson mags mostly. I dumped alot of money into it early on, Kings in Denver, Sports West, then just put it away and shot rifles. Original springs I suppose, probably less than 500 rounds through it.
So, you think the extractor and spring may have more to do with brass in the face than the ejector? I shot it yesterday and haven't cleaned it yet, but it may have a shock buff in it too. I know I used to use them, they seemed like a good idea.

I'll check the FP stop for looseness and extractor for tension tonight. I'll look for clocking of the extractor.
Any tips or pointers on how to adjust this issue would be fantastic.

[rondog]

I've read on the 1911 forums about guys doing a little filing on the front of the ejector, to re-profile it a tad and make it kick the cases out to the side, but I haven't done it to any of my 1911's. Not sure what it involves, but probably a slight angle to the right. Ask at http://m1911.org/ http://forums.1911forum.com/

[Robb]

I've read a bit about filing the extractor too, I don't mind doing that type of work at all but I need to know more about angles and how they'll effect ejection before I start whittling away. I'd prefer not having to buy half a dozen extractors and experimenting on how a certan cut effects ejection. Someone, somewhere should be able to fix this issue, or explain to me how to do it fairly easily I would guess.

R

[Graves]

Toss that shok buff in the trash, those things cause more problems than they're worth. I'd bet that cures your problem right there.

[Robb]

I should be so lucky that that would fix my issue. I'll clean the gun tonight and report back if it still has one in it. I know I did put them in years ago. I bought in to the marketing, what can I say.

R

[BPTactical]

Toss that shok buff in the trash, those things cause more problems than they're worth. I'd bet that cures your problem right there.
+1
Unless you are diligent about replacing them every 500 rounds they can cause problems.

As far as filing the ejector it is going to depend if it is an extended ejector or short nose. Short nose does not have the tunability that a long nose does.
If you have the short nose then the Shock-Buff may stopping the slide from traveling fully to the rear so you are not getting the correct "stroke" on the ejector.
Check to see if the ejector is loose in the frame as well.
I replied to your e mail as well Robb. I'd be happy to take a look.

[SA Friday]

BP covered most of what I was going to post pretty nicely. I think it's the shock buff shortening the cycle stroke enough that it's the pressure from the mag spring kicking the spent cartridge out instead of the ejector and extractor. Shoot the gun with the buffer in and a mag, then shoot it with the buffer in and no mag, then shoot it with no buffer and mag, and lastly shoot it with no buffer and no mag. If it's the buffer short stroking the cycle, it will stop ejecting straight up and back with or without the mag in the gun when you remove the buffer.

[Robb]

Thanks for all the replys. I'll check the gun over throughly tonight when I get home to see if the gun still has the buffer in it or not, and then extractor looseness etc. and report back then. Hopefully we can get this resolved one way or the other.
R

[Robb]

It did have a shock buff in it, it's gone now. The shock buffer appeared to be in new condition though, it did not visually appear to be damaged, worn or crushed in any way.

Everything else to me looked good. Ejector was solid on the rail, it has the short ejector and the face of the ejector is perpendicular to the rails of the gun, no slight bevel that you see on the longer ejectors. The extractor doesnt have much of a bend to it, it appeared almost streight but when the firing pin stop is in place it's also solid, not enough clocking to be visually noticable. The extractor also appears to be radiused on the bottom of the claw a tiny bit.

I tried to cycle empty brass through it after it was assembled but that didn't work too well so I pulled the firing pin just because and it cycled live ammo fine and seemed to eject around 4:00 - 5:00 oclock. I don't know if hand cycling compares to actually firing the gun or not. I'll report back when I get to fire the gun again, not until this weekend at the earliest.

Thanks for the trouble shooting tips.
Robb