Anyone have difficulty removing/installing the slide on their Glock?

[ray1970]

First, let me say I have owned several Gen 2 Glocks and they all assembled, disassembled, and functioned smoothly. That being said, I have a Gen 3 that is brand new and the slide requires quite a bit of effort to remove and install. Almost feels like it is hanging on something or rubbing on something. Also, once assembled the pistol does not go fully into battery if the slide is not closed briskly and you have to physically push the back of the slide a little. I know this is probably not an issue during normal use but I never had this condition on any of my other Glocks. Again, it feels like something is rubbing. I haven't looked it over very well yet to see what is going on. Maybe I just need to put a few hundred rounds through it to break it in? I don't remember any of my other Glocks being this way even new out of the box. Anyone else experience this? Thanks.

[XJ]

Sorry, it's just you :)

[cstone]

4th gen G22. The recoil spring is very stiff and depending on how sweaty or greasy my hands are, it sometimes takes me a minute or so, but I know it gets easier with use.

The take down lever is probably the one thing I like most on my Sigs vs my Glock.

[ray1970]

OK. I think maybe it is just new and stiff. I lubed everything good and racked the slide many, many times and it is getting better already. As soon as time permits I will take it out and put about 300 rounds through it and I bet it will be all better.

[FireMoth]

With a Gen 3 there is a good chance there is flashing (bits of polymer left over from the molding process) on the recoil spring guide rod or in the channel it rides in on the frame.
If there is some flash present and the recoil spring doesn't sit center and true, the gun will bind a little until it pops into place. If there is debris, it can pop back out of place, and feel stiff.
The plus is, it will usually wear itself out with a little use, the spring will relax, and all will be well

This is actually common to all of the striker fired pistols. i see it a lot with Kahr P series. I've always seen it work itself out in short order.

With new generation pistols such as 4th Gen Glock, XDm and M&P, its a lsightly different reason, but the same solution.
All the previous pistols were designed as 9mm first, and .40 was shoe horned into them.
The results were some fantastic guns in 9mm that had a nasty tendency to fail catastrophically in .40. (This was actually glocks fault, by rushign the first .40 cal pistol out ahead of smith and wesson, and thus starting a .40 arms race)
The solution has been to now design the guns as .40s first, then scale down (Note XDm came out in .40 before 9mm?).
On the up side, it reduces the likelihood of catastrophic failures under normal conditions. the down side is they are a little stiff for some lighter 9mm stuff, and just need a little working out before they relax.

Given the choice, I'll take a stiff slide and maybe one or two short strokes to my gun blowing up any day.

[SA Friday]

Go run 500 rounds through it. Some glocks are tighter than others. When I buy a new glock, I have the store pull all the same models out and go through them looking for the one with the tightest slide to frame fit. They stay tighter over their life and are more accurate this way. Never expect any brand new production pistol to cycle smoothly till you've shot about 500 rounds through it and mated up all the moving parts.

There are ways to smooth out the trigger parts initially but the slide, frame, barrel fittings all need to be smoothed out/mated through firing the gun.

[Stinky]

Did you clean the yellow grease off of the gun? It could also be sort of a gold color.

If you did, you shouldn't have, it is a special grease designed for the break-in of the gun. (look at your manual)

You bought the gun ready to shoot...I know how it is, the first thing tha tyou want to do is take it apart...the first thing you should do it shoot it.

[tactuppernut]

Real late to this party. Sounds like safety plunger tang on trigger rubbing right side of channel too hard. Had the same problem when I installed a Lone Wolf Siderlock trigger on mine. Use metal polish on trigger bars' plunger contact (highest portion of bar that presses safety plunger into slide when trigger is pressed)on top and right convex detent,the right side of channel, and safety plunger (after removal). This will eliminate 80% of binding during break in. Also check for debris between slide lock and trigger at trigger pin, trigger may be getting pushed to right side, causing heavy contact. Or trigger pin itself is pushed all the way to right, which forces slide lock into trigger, in turn pushing trigger and bar to right.

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

you need to shoot it more and take it apart less i think

[kwando]

glocks come apart? I thought you just shoot it I've never had to take mine apart... =)

[SouthPaw]

I have owned my fair shares of glocks and never had one harder than the other. Just my .02

[gos]

I got a new Gen4 G17. Recoil spring is a lot more stiff than the Gen3 they let me borrow, but I figure I just haven't shot it enough. (only about 500rds so far)

[Trigger Time 23]

My Gen 3- 23 was a little stiff, but loosened after a few hundred down the pipe. I would try shooting the heck out of it and then see how things are.

[rustycrusty]

I agree with the other guys- just shoot it alot- or cheat and rack the slide real hard 1000 times. (dry fire also works real well to smooth the trigger our- might as well if you are doing all that racking. Yeah it's hard on the gun- if you break it I'm sure Gaston will grudgingly buy you a new one.