View Full Version : Engine Trouble...
gcrookston
04-14-2011, 13:39
Anyone have a recommendation where I can get a used 5.4L to stick into a 2000 Ford F250 SD?
I've got a bad cylinder in mine and with 200k on the Odo, it's a couple grand to fix (short block from Rydell's is $2k).
Tweety Bird
04-14-2011, 14:26
I use the Pull 'n Save at about 33rd and Peoria. Practically next door to the Denver County jail. Their prices have been climbing steadily for a year or two but you'd probably still get a short block for a couple hundred or so. Of course, you're going to have to do the labor yourself, on both ends. Plus, it's the only junkyard I've ever been to that charges an admission fee (but it's only $2). They won't tell you what they have in the lot if you call 'em; you just have to go over there, give them a 2-dollar bill, and look around. At least the stuff is sorted according to the source (Ford, Chrysler, GM and Import areas).
PnS also charges for every single part. Block, carb, alt, hoses... The new owners seem to want to make money or drive off business.
There are some yards on south Santa Fe. I can't think of the names but they are there. :rolleyes:
Who diagnosed the dead hole, and how?
Tweety Bird
04-14-2011, 14:39
PnS also charges for every single part. Block, carb, alt, hoses... The new owners seem to want to make money or drive off business.
There are some yards on south Santa Fe. I can't think of the names but they are there. :rolleyes:
Correct, but I believe a short block is sold at a fixed price. For just a dead hole due to a scored or cracked cylinder, that should be all that's needed. That's why you find cylinder heads, manifolds, and all sorts of other stuff laying around the carcass; people only take what they need to avoid getting pinched at the register. (Sometimes, that has saved me a lot of work, too.)
There are also several salvage yards at Tower and Colfax. They do the dismantling, so their prices are higher, but a phone call is all you need to get the info from them.
gcrookston
04-14-2011, 15:36
Who diagnosed the dead hole, and how?
Pride, In Littleton. I went up to Edwards over the weekend and started loosing power, rough idle, miss. Typical symptoms of a coil going out (I've replaced 3 in the last 15k miles/6months).
Indeed, I did have a bad coil on #2, but also a misfire on #7. Pulled the plug and it's melted... This can mean a valve or a piston. They went ahead and compression checked all cylinders. 7 are in spec, #7 is 30psi.
With 200k on the motor, it doesn't seem cost effect to spend a grand or two getting a head done or piston replaced...
Byte Stryke
04-14-2011, 15:40
With 200k on the motor, it doesn't seem cost effect to spend a grand or two getting a head done or piston replaced...
I talk allot of sh*t about fords... but I have to say that only 11 years old I would have it rebuilt and run it for another 200k.
There are some yards on south Santa Fe. I can't think of the names but they are there. :rolleyes:
Lincoln Auto Salvage Can't remember the address 45 something S. Santa Fe. They have a big sign, can't miss it. Just south of Sviegal's (sp). 30 years ago, one could get just about anything there. [Abused]
I have a buddy selling a brand spanking new built EFI 351W with a Paxton supoercharger. It would bolt right up to your truck.
he's asking $7k, but I think he's flexible
It'd make your truck move pretty good with over 500hp (can be tunned for over 600hp with another pulley
streetglideok
04-14-2011, 18:45
The 351 wont bolt and go on that truck with a 5.4L. Lot more work then its worth. Harness, mounts, etc all different.
Now when you said a dead hole, no compression, or constant misfire on that cylinder? You'll find that doing a shortblock on that engine is pricey, as its more involved then say a 351, or 305 chevy. Might want to find a complete engine for it. May check LKQ. I've torn those engines down, and while it wasnt hard, it does require some tooling, and not to mention the work to get that engine out.
Pride, In Littleton. I went up to Edwards over the weekend and started loosing power, rough idle, miss. Typical symptoms of a coil going out (I've replaced 3 in the last 15k miles/6months).
Indeed, I did have a bad coil on #2, but also a misfire on #7. Pulled the plug and it's melted... This can mean a valve or a piston. They went ahead and compression checked all cylinders. 7 are in spec, #7 is 30psi.
With 200k on the motor, it doesn't seem cost effect to spend a grand or two getting a head done or piston replaced...
I only asked because I know how how prone to failure those coils can be.
Great-Kazoo
04-14-2011, 19:01
I talk allot of sh*t about fords... but I have to say that only 11 years old I would have it rebuilt and run it for another 200k.
likewise, or see about a reman from Ford or even NAPA. for the time (LABOR) and money to swap out your boat anchor for a used motor is tossing money down the crapper. no matter what you are told or shown it is still a used motor that has been sitting in a scrap yard for who knows how long.
do you buy the 20K mileage motor that the owner did oil and pm's on it "when ever" or score on a 50K from someone with complete documentation that just totaled it. CL has salvage titled units all the time. A friend of ours scored not 1 but 2 cameros. 1 with a fully rebuilt motor and trans, with receipts and the other for spares. he's dumping the drive train in to his 51 merc. paid $2K for everything as the owner was ........going to be employed by the state for 3-5!.
<MADDOG>
04-14-2011, 19:04
Define "bad"... Can you sleeve it? Or are 5.4's to thin in the wall?
5.4 engines can be bored up to .060 over. I don't know about sleeves. I have rebuilt a few in my day. The blocks are about as tough as they get. I would say to get a reman from Ford or Napa. I've had good and bad experiences with used motors. If a 5.4 has been run low on oil even once, it really takes its toll on the bearings and chain drive system. Spend the money for a reman with a warranty. I've seen those engines go 450k miles with regular maintenance.
streetglideok
04-14-2011, 20:31
Missed the post about the low compression on #7. If doing a reman engine, you will want the shop to find out what happened. If there was a bad injector,etc that led to a burnt valve, and so on, you want that fixed. May want to look at either a Jasper engine, or a FoMoCo reman.
gcrookston
04-14-2011, 21:26
Thanks for everyone's input. After calls and crunching numbers, I think the best route is to through a new spark plug in the hole and hope it makes it by the used manager on a trade...
By the way, did find a remain long block for $2200 @ rydells. But shop rate is 18 hours.
If it will last a couple hundred miles maybe I can get me a newer, lower mileage Suburban (their prices are really depressed with $4/g gas)...
blackford76
04-14-2011, 22:06
May want to look at either a Jasper engine, or a FoMoCo reman.
Personal experience, I spent the big $$$ for a Jasper, it went 2k the first go, was replaced, went 50 miles, was replaced again under warranty, third engine made it out of the garage, was then told they didn't care about the warranty and I was on my own.
Seems like everyone else has great luck with them.
As for used 5.4's, seems that used trucks are a bit cheaper here (NE) because they use salt on the roads so cars rust early here. You could find a cheap used truck, I could verify it runs good and bring it out to Colo on my weekend returns home. Just a thought.
Personal experience, I spent the big $$$ for a Jasper, it went 2k the first go, was replaced, went 50 miles, was replaced again under warranty, third engine made it out of the garage, was then told they didn't care about the warranty and I was on my own.
Seems like everyone else has great luck with them.
As for used 5.4's, seems that used trucks are a bit cheaper here (NE) because they use salt on the roads so cars rust early here. You could find a cheap used truck, I could verify it runs good and bring it out to Colo on my weekend returns home. Just a thought.
I would agree, Jasper is garbage. And they don't stand behind the warranty. They will find every excuse in the book to get out of a warranty claim and tell you it's your fault.
If you decide to throw a used short block in it I would roll bearings in it while you are there.
The fractured rods and mains make that bottom end bullet proof for the most part but bearings are a wear item.
gcrookston
04-16-2011, 06:03
Got $4,900.00 in trade...
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.