My first AK, shot it, need some help.

[stevelkinevil]

So I recently picked up a century bullpup AK. I had quite a few FTE's not being familiar with the AK I am guessing an extractor problem? Anyone who lives near littleton and knows about these things willing to take a look at it? Thanks.

[gcrookston]

So I recently picked up a century bullpup AK. I had quite a few FTE's not being familiar with the AK I am guessing an extractor problem? Anyone who lives near littleton and knows about these things willing to take a look at it? Thanks.

Without looking at it, through personal experience, I can tell you; you have already identified the problem... Century Arms International.

About every 10 years I have to buy something by them to remind myself why I won't buy something from them. My recommendation is haul it down to the next gun show and off load it.

[BPTactical]

Can you be a little more descriptive of the FTE's? Are the cases sticking and rims getting torn off or what?
Don't be so quick to discount the fact of it being a Century. Sure you get some occasional crappers but they have improved over the last couple of years. I finally narrowed my AK collection to just one, the one that shot best and accurate- a Century build Yugo M70.
What model rifle?

[CrufflerSteve]

There have been eastern bloc guns with rough chambers. There have also been reports of the lacquer used on steel case ammo sometimes sticking and needing a good scrub with a stiff brush and thinner. If you do this, make sure you take it apart since this can be rough on wood shellac or synthetics.

Century has done a lot of dubious guns but most are okay, maybe after a little minor work. I'd suggest having BP Tactical take a quick look at it and then decide.

Steve

[stevelkinevil]

BPTactical: It is a GP1975 bullpup, these are made from Romanian AKs, I had a few stove pipes, and some where it was extracted from the chamber but didnt even make it 1/2 way out and was just stuck in the receiver (not the chamber). Also when I put on the new muzzle break the little button that you have to push in to unscrew it didn't pop back out and my muzzle break came loose. If you wouldnt mind checking it out for me that would be great.

However, I loved the feel of it, and it was much more accurate and controllable than I thought it would be. I will not be "unloading" it at the next gun show, I am confident it just needs a little tweaking and I really like it.

[BPTactical]

Classic "Short Stroke" is what it sounds like.
Easy fix(s)!
No need to dump her at a show.
Check your pm's

[stevelkinevil]

Classic "Short Stroke" is what it sounds like.
Easy fix(s)!
No need to dump her at a show.
Check your pm's

I will contact you but theres an issue. 1. you are an hour away from me. 2. at this point I cannot afford to pay a smith. I was kinda hoping for someone near littleton who has some knowledge and could lend a hand.

Anyone?

[stevelkinevil]

well after chatting with BP i found the culprit, it is definitely dragging on the hammer, especially as the bolt carrier moves back forward, is the hammer position adjustable or should I just take off a little material or polish the back end of the hammer so the carrier rides more smoothly?

[jreifsch80]

It isn't adjustable you will need to carefully grind the hammer with is the top back when it is cocked. Also another thing that helps a lot is using grease instead of oil for lube. Ak's "can" run dry but grease helps them run smoother though I'm sure with a real select fire ak it wouldn't matter as much as the hammer is held down by the safety sear semi or fa.

[BPTactical]

The hammer position is not adjustable. Don't just go whittling away unless you know what you are doing-overdo it and you get to buy a new hammer and start all over again.
I work in south Denver and can get with you during the week.
We can work out the pay-can you wax a truck and clean a catbox?[Muaha]

[stevelkinevil]

It isn't adjustable you will need to carefully grind the hammer with is the top back when it is cocked. Also another thing that helps a lot is using grease instead of oil for lube. Ak's "can" run dry but grease helps them run smoother though I'm sure with a real select fire ak it wouldn't matter as much as the hammer is held down by the safety sear semi or fa.

I have a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease, what parts should I lube with that?

BP: we can probably work out something, however no matter how broke I get Im not going near a cat box!

[stevelkinevil]

Oh also does anyone know how I can secure my gas tube cover so that I can actually make use of the rail mounted there and put an optic on it?

[jreifsch80]

I have a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease, what parts should I lube with that?

BP: we can probably work out something, however no matter how broke I get Im not going near a cat box!

That would probably work great I would put a little bit of grease on the front side of the hammer (it will then naturally get a little on the underside of the bolt carrier) also a little bit on both sets of rails (top rails that guide the bolt carrier and lower rails that support the bolt head) some people grease the locking lug areas in the trunnion but I for some reason prefer going dry there though I like putting a little grease on the bolt rotation ramp on the left side of the bullet guide. Also I personally like only applying a thin film of grease but you'll see what works best for your ak.

Is your gas tube cover a standard type cover? If so maybe it's missing the upper hand guard tension spring. If you need one I'll send you a spare I have. If it does use one and you have one then experiment with bending it a little to put more tension on the upper hand guard.