View Full Version : 1911 barrel cleaning
nathan0259
06-06-2011, 00:30
So I just got a Colt Rail Gun. It has a Colt national match barrel. My question is how do you guys clean your barrels? Should I use a boar foam? brass brush, nylon brush, bore snake? Hoppes No. 9? CLP? Rem oil? I want to make sure I'm doing all I can to take care of this barrel. Befor this I had a glock and I bore snaked it clean and called it good, just thought you guys might have a little more insite on how to take care of a good barrel. Thanks gents!
mcantar18c
06-06-2011, 00:43
I've had very good results from M-Pro 7 products. Cleans much faster + more effectively than Hoppes No. 9 in my experience. Their oil is good too.
As for the brush... I just use a standard brass/bronze/whatever brush and patches.
Haha rail gun mine is bigger.
+1 to damn good looking 1911 that deserves all the attention it will get.
http://www.warbirdphotographs.com/ATC/ATC-GermanRailGun-1.jpg
bobbyfairbanks
06-06-2011, 01:41
I got a rail gun last fall. I am planning and replacing all of the internal parts. I have had some issues with the gun due to the MIM parts that COLT uses. Besides for that I really love the gun and it shoots great.
I clean my barrel one of three ways. A foaming cleaner, snake or brush.
I usually start with the foaming cleaner then with the foam still in the barrel I run the brass brush through it a few times. Then I spray out the foam with wd40 and push a rag through it and call it good. If there isn't mush fowling then I just push the snake through and call it good. Don't forget to grease your pistol after you clean it. I use bearing grease and am very happy with it.
Byte Stryke
06-06-2011, 08:07
wait a sec...
we are supposed to clean them?
I just dunk mine into the bucket of used motor oil I keep in the garage from the oil changes, shake of the extra and call it good
DeusExMachina
06-06-2011, 08:15
I've been cleaning mine with CLP and a brass brush. Soak with CLP, clean some other stuff, brush a couple times, run a wet patch then dry patches till its clean.
I've been lubing it with MPro, that stuff rocks. I had to restrict myself to only a drop on each rail, barrel hood and lockup and one drop just infront of the hammer to get the firing controls every other cleaning. The first time I lubed it, it was leaking over everything and everytime I dry fired it, a little sprits of lube would puff out.
I hear over-lubing is a myth, but I don't like getting oil all over me and my clothes. :)
Byte Stryke
06-06-2011, 08:32
seriously, Hoppes no. 9 with a brass brush and then Tetra wipe with a swab
Clean them?
Only if you are shooting lead. If your shooting jacketed, maye a bore snake every few thousand rounds to clean out the carbon in the chamber.
More firearms have been screwed up by over/improper cleaning than anything else.
BPTactical
06-06-2011, 09:30
Marlin beat me to it while I was typing-
Cleaning a barrel-
More barrels are damaged/ruined by excessive or over zealous cleaning than for any other reason.
How often and how do you clean? Depends on the amount of shooting and type of ammo you are using. If you are shooting lead nose stuff you are going to have to clean the bore a little more often due to leading. (If you are shooting a Glock, HK or any other weapon with polygonal rifling NEVER shoot plain lead bulllets!)
Copper jacketed ammo does not require as often of a detailed scrubbing.
I typically will only really scrub a bore when I see a degradation in accuracy. Hell, serious distance shooters will not touch a bore for 500-1000 rounds. A little fouling in a barrel is not a bad thing really, it actually improves the gas seal of the bore to bullet fit.
For a typical routine cleaning I will take a wet patch with my favorite cleaner (Shooters Choice) and swab the bore and allow it to set for at least 10 minutes. If I feel the need to use a brush I prefer a nylon one, only using a bronze brush on a heavily fouled bore.
After the solvent of your choice has sat for a while another wet patch or two followed by dry patches until the come out white or a light grey. Follow with a wet patch of oil and allow it to sit a while then run a dry patch loosely down the bore. I like to leave just a skim of oil in the bore. FWIW I like Tetra oil, subsequent cleanings seem to go better after using it.
For a heavily copper or lead fouled bore I follow the same basic mantra but really let the bore cleaner soak for as long as possible. The MPro7 and Tetra Gel cleaners work really well on heavy fouling as long as you give it ample time to work, maybe an hour or so. Get the bore nice and slathered up and put it in a ziploc so the cleaner doesn't evaporate. After letting it sit I will patch out the bore and inspect it. At this time I decide if brushing is needed and do so if warranted then followed by standard cleaning protocols. The biggest thing is letting the solvent do its work, give it time to work.
Lubrication of a 1911-
Too much is just as bad if not worse than not enough lube. You want just enough to see it in place but not enough to where it drips or runs.
Forget oil on the slide rails, use a grease. Oil is crappy in shear loads which is what a slide to frame fit is. Oil will be displaced easily in shear. There is nothing wrong with taking a bit of oil to the range and using a bit on the slide if you are shooting a bunch and need to keep her running well but don't try to use it in place of grease. This is really critical on stainless steel or aluminum frames-those need to be kept well greased to prevent undue wear or galling.
I like the Tetra grease and Magnalube. Just a couple small dabs is usually adequate.
Rule of thumb-if it rotates oil it-if it slides grease it.
Bore snakes are ok for a quick fast pull through at the range but don't trust them for
serious cleanings.
If you are going to use a brush try to always brush from breech to muzzle, think of "sanding with the grain".
You will be rewarded with a happy, long lasting barrel regardless of what it is on.
[Beer]
SA Friday
06-06-2011, 11:04
Clean them?
Only if you are shooting lead. If your shooting jacketed, maye a bore snake every few thousand rounds to clean out the carbon in the chamber.
More firearms have been screwed up by over/improper cleaning than anything else.
http://docs.google.com/a/mscd.edu/viewer?a=v&q=cache:9ETCkFwd7hMJ:www.schuemann.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket%3D3zZ4oir3t50%253D%26tab id%3D67%26mid%3D445+schuemann+barrels+cleaning&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESi7aAhDzcgCZazcWMewsAkplnhcwJV8IN46YlhV bY0OIY-Sj4WHp1Nqdx3dzW2slCbYgmU_lFpXhprPZQoKO4UiP0b4L0mOh-zojremwlfa6aTSClT486wBbZdx_BD-ck_dNDQ2&sig=AHIEtbRzmeoOT6WT9oTFy2wBVJVhXkZvRA&pli=1
This is what Scheumann says too. Clean the chamber, scrape out any buildup with a brass rod and keep shooting. It gets all shiny all by itself.
BigNick73
06-06-2011, 11:40
I use a brass brush, carbon blast first to get the black crap then CLP or #9. If shooting jacketed rounds I'll use a copper remover every 1K rounds or so. I usually only clean every 500 rounds or so, and do a full tear down, every pin and part comes out cleaned lubed/greased and reassembled. Shoot lead ball reloads I end up with carbon build up over everything, including the trigger parts giving them a nice gritty feeling.
BTW Q-tips are perfect size for cleaning the extractor and firing pin holes.
nathan0259
06-06-2011, 21:46
Thanks for the info guys. I was just looking for any special nija magic for the barrel. I might start cleaning every 500 or so rounds instead of after every shooting. I plan on having BP replace my MIM parts when I get some extra cash. Thanks for the heads up BP/Hoser.
Zombie Steve
06-08-2011, 22:21
Just clean like normal... don't over think it. It's just a Colt.
nathan0259
06-09-2011, 22:00
It's just a Colt.... at least my gun has an angry pony on it![Tooth]
Zombie Steve
06-12-2011, 18:38
[Twist]
Zombie Steve
06-12-2011, 23:29
I've seen a friend's Rail Gun and it looked nice and shot well, even had a good trigger... but the MIM frame safety broke already.
I am glad to see they are offering plastic triggers now. [Puke]
http://www.coltsmfg.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=fCNxlGWpJMU%3d&tabid=123&mid=552
Heck, they can't even make the grip safety look even sort of tight in their catalog photos.
Colt ain't what they used to be.
I'm sorry for my comments. I hope nobody feels like I'm singling them out... lots of manufacturers ain't what they used to be, but they're still riding the old name.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/images/firearms/detail_md/103038_01_md.jpg
http://www.remington.com/%7E/media/Images/Firearms/Centerfire/Model-700/Model-700-SPS/700SPS-prod.ashx?w=570&bc=ffffff
2-piece barrels, MIM parts, cheap-o synthetic stocks, nanny locks... Guess I'm just getting old.
Zombie Steve
06-12-2011, 23:33
Sweet Jesus, I just found a gun called Tactical Turkey.
http://www.mossberg.com/images/products/835/63100.jpg
Indeed it is...
I do apologize for the hijack.
mcantar18c
06-13-2011, 00:24
Sweet Jesus, I just found a gun called Tactical Turkey.
Indeed it is...
I do apologize for the hijack.
Hey now, some of those turkeys get aggressive and I've noticed them starting to use some guerilla tactics. I think they got a hold of a Magpul dvd or something.
Saw some juvenile toms doing some transitions the other day that would make 3 gun guys consider a new hobby.
Hey now, some of those turkeys get aggressive and I've noticed them starting to use some guerilla tactics. I think they got a hold of a Magpul dvd or something.
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